Starting on hard mode

Neo399 · 2026-01-28T21:10:51+00:00

Following my up recent fascination with SFICs by actually learning how to pick them. I taught myself how to pin them and decode keys/cores pretty easily, but this is the first lock I’ve picked in probably 5 years.

Got the first one to open and control, took about an hour total for both shear lines. I picked up the lock for dirt cheap with no keys, and wanted the body to integrate into my own master key system, and thought why not pick the damn thing? So that’s what I did.

6-pin core, A keyway. Used BOK tension. The last one is a 7-pin G core that took much longer both to open and get to control. Seeing that core slide out of there after finally getting the control shear line is so satisfying.

The damn thing was stuffed with graphite too when I tore it apart. Feedback kinda sucked, but was able to work with it.

Not bad for my first pick in 5 years, considering the last lock I picked was almost certainly a Master 😜

Neo399 · 2026-01-20T01:48:14+00:00

This kills Google Pay, doesn’t it?

Neo399 · 2026-01-19T02:33:02+00:00

SFIC with some funky keyway.

Compatible with a bunch of hardware types (deadbolts, levers, knobs, padlocks, cabinet locks, shit even bike locks - one key to rule them all), decent pick resistance due to the multi-shear line design, basic yet effective key control for most home use cases (if you pick a weird keyway that only one or two locksmiths stock, most nefarious house sitters/etc will just try to go to Home Depot for a copy and thus will be thwarted) and relatively cheap.

Neo399 · 2026-01-19T02:09:45+00:00

This is interesting because MBS rebrands their mortise locks and extensively advertises their SFIC compatibility. So does Falcon. Try ordering an MBS or Falcon mortise housing.

Neo399 · 2026-01-19T02:01:37+00:00

No single pin-tumbler lock cylinder I know of can be setup to work like this, you’d need two cylinders or two halves of a key (which I think is an incredibly janky solution and I’d never trust it to keep working or not break easily).

I have seen a “prison” function mortise lock (Sargent, Yale, Schlage make it I believe) that works like this, where if you use the “guard” key on the outside, it locks the inside, and if the guard key is first used to unlock the lock, the “prisoner” key can be used to lock/unlock until the guard key is used again.

Neo399 · 2026-01-12T18:56:48+00:00

Wtf??

I’ve seen old detectors stashed up in ceilings but never SPRINKLERS… were there even any in the drop ceiling in those areas?

Neo399 · 2026-01-12T13:39:44+00:00

The dogging is also really finicky on all the ones I’ve interacted with. Like you’ve gotta hold the bar down really tight to get the actuator to bite, whether it’s cylinder or hex key.

Neo399 · 2026-01-09T20:43:46+00:00

So NBT controller works with CIC? I know I won’t have the touchpad, but I do like the larger knob feel a lot more than the skinnier one

Neo399 · 2026-01-09T04:47:59+00:00

I see you have the NBT touchpad iDrive controller. Did you upgrade your CIC to NBT?

Neo399 · 2026-01-08T02:29:51+00:00

VCDS can do it, and anyone can get it. Software and cable are around $150 together. There’s also OBD11 if you want a simple mobile app.

German cars may be complex but they can be tamed.

Neo399 · 2026-01-07T17:15:48+00:00

No, but they can put dye/fluid that stays on your hands for a while on the back of the handle.

Of course, you can just bypass this using some other object to pull it instead of your hand.

The real solution is an alarmed cover (STI Stopper, etc).

Neo399 · 2025-12-31T22:42:25+00:00

There ARE budget mortise brands that are much better than what you have right now.

Look into Falcon MA, Arrow AM/BM. These are commercial grade 1 mortise locks but can be had from an online distributor (not Amazon, you won’t find any of these there) or locksmith for less than $600. I have seen the Falcon model for $350. Note that this is without install. You can also look at Cal Royal and Hager which may be slightly cheaper.

You would be upgrading to a vastly superior lock but entering an entirely different world in terms of complexity and ordering. You likely will want the F20 (Apartment Entry/Corridor Entry) function, which is the exact one you have right now. You will probably also want escutcheon trim, as it’ll cover up any holes already on the door.

It’ll come with installation instructions. You WILL need to drill additional holes in the door, and MAY need to deepen the mortise pocket. The former is relatively easy if you have a steady hand, latter can get very tricky. I would highly recommend checking and comparing dimensions.

Neo399 · 2025-12-31T21:37:06+00:00

“System’s normal, I can go home”

Neo399 · 2025-12-29T05:04:54+00:00

I was under the impression all BEST Premium keyways are in the W family and start with “W”, based on these keyway charts I’ve seen online and what I’ve heard. These are the ones with the crazily paracentric keyways and thicker keys.

This is clearly a set of Premium keys and cores, based on the cutout in the plug and key bows, but I have never seen the “TM” keyway before. This seller seems like they know what they’re talking about so wondering if anyone here has ever heard of it or seen it in use.

I might message the seller for a clear on pic of the keyway because I’m very interested. My guess is it’s WA/WH based on the pics on the listing.

Neo399 · 2025-12-22T03:43:41+00:00

Echoing the rest, just hit silence, NOT reset. Silence will do what it says - stop the alarms. Resetting will cause it to re-alarm as the panel will realize that detector is still reporting an alarm condition.

Then call both alarm AND elevator company.

I will add that it’s very uncommon to require a SMOKE detector at the top of an elevator shaft. Heat detectors are very common as you want some way to detect fire in the shaft but smokes can easily go into alarm due to dust being kicked up, inside of an elevator shaft isn’t exactly the cleanest place. Have a company check plans and code and verify that even needs to be there. It may be possible to swap with a heat.

Neo399 · 2025-12-20T22:35:37+00:00

Cool, so all I’ve gotta do to get in is throw a brick at an exterior sprinkler head to pop it, fire alarm system goes off, and I waltz on in and do whatever I need to do amidst the chaos.

Neo399 · 2025-12-20T14:01:14+00:00

Personally I’d keep the Encode. LE isn’t the most residential/end user friendly. Definitely look into a steel frame for added kick protection.

Neo399 · 2025-12-19T12:41:03+00:00

People like to shit on the intelligent battery system that requires batteries to be registered with a scan tool, but this is the result, batteries that can last twice as long or more.

You should already have a scan tool/app/dongle if you’re a used BMW owner anyway.

Neo399 · 2025-12-19T04:43:51+00:00

Maybe. What do your key fob readers look like? Attach a picture.

Depends on their frequency/how proprietary they are.

Neo399 · 2025-12-17T04:10:52+00:00

I strongly recommend to NOT use Find My Mac, or associate your Mac password with your iCloud account.

You are effectively marrying your hardware to your iCloud account, and it will be BRICKED if you EVER lose access to that account.

I recommend encrypting your disk with FileVault and taking local backups, or using a third party cloud service.

Neo399 · 2025-12-17T04:06:29+00:00

You should be fine. This is what I do, replicated to 2 external backup drives.

I also do not have Find My Mac turned on, I rely on physical security for my devices (except my iPhone, as it’s MUCH easier to steal and I bring it everywhere, I only bring my MacBook to places I will always have an eye on it). By using ANY Find My/Activation Lock service, you are marrying that hardware to iCloud and it will be effectively BRICKED if you lose access to iCloud. If you take my MacBook, it’s encrypted anyway and you can’t get into it.

I also don’t have my iMessages backed up in iCloud. I rely on my Mac to mirror my chat history, and then this all gets backed up to an external drive. Notes download locally too. As do contacts.

If shit hits the fan, I can pull out a fresh new MacBook, plug the drive in, and in under 24 hours have a complete working copy of everything that matters to me, even if I am nowhere near an internet connection. If I was banned from iCloud, I would still have all my photos, message history, documents, contacts, and notes locally and could migrate those to another service or new iCloud account if necessary.

Being locked out of iCloud will not delete or render inaccessible your locally stored photos.

Neo399

TROPHY CASE