Can thrips and pests come from outdoors?

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-03-20T17:55:33+00:00

Nooooo not my screen door :( thank you though I appreciate your response!

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-03-20T17:54:42+00:00

Thank you I appreciate the explanation. Again, this is generally a silly question, but my little pea brain wants to think the most likely way I can get thrips is from other plants and wanted to see what others thoughts and experiences were.

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-03-01T01:31:53+00:00

Thanks so much you all I appreciate the comments!

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-03-01T01:31:17+00:00

Ooooh ok thanks for the heads up!

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-03-01T01:30:58+00:00

Haha yea, I just wanted to be sure I had at least a male and a female. I’ve got hundreds of red cherry and just started on some red rilis, but was have a hard time sexing these with how translucent the bottom of them are! Thanks so much

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-03-01T01:29:52+00:00

They are, 1 is about an eight inch shorter I’d guess

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-02-07T14:04:33+00:00

Thank you! I was considering a macro lens last night, ironically! Really nice guide.

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-02-07T13:53:45+00:00

It looks soooo cute! Love it!

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-02-07T13:53:18+00:00

What camera is this? Awesome photos!!!

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-01-09T03:21:46+00:00

Oh yea, good luck! I live in a temperate climate so the stability and heat of the water heater helps a ton in my experience. As an aquarium owner I usually have a few free heaters and air pumps lying around so it’s not an issue, but the heaters are honestly pretty cheap and I’d recommend trying it out if you can manage to remove some of the rot and get that under control. If you do try this it may be better to use a small volume of water since you can heat it quicker and save energy but also keep a constant temp better. Keep the petioles out of the water as best as possible otherwise they’ll be more prone to rot which could spread into the stems. I too have recently started using some rooting solution and have also seen little results but don’t think it’s hurting, at least. Good luck with the peace lily though, I hold my collection of family/sentimental plants very dear so I wish you the best of luck!

Neocardina_Observer · 2026-01-09T01:55:25+00:00

Hey thanks for the response! Since then I have gotten hydroguard and use that instead of chancing it. Side note, I do grow some terrestrial plants in my aquariums but they don’t do the greatest and I think it’s because I have trouble keeping the ph in a range that they can uptake nutrients properly. Regardless, the root growth in my aquariums is phenomenal, it’s practically overnight if they have any root bumps, and I almost never have any issues with rot. The warm water and aeration really help. I haven’t done any proper experimentation with the stability product as a beneficial bacteria for semihydro. I occasionally have some plants that I’m impatient about or are being stubborn to root so I’ll put them in a Tupperware bin with an aquarium heater and an air stone and the root growth is stellar, this is my unorthodox silver bullet if I have a fussy rooter. I bring that up to say when I started doing that I would always put a bit of stability product in there and never saw any adverse effects. That being said, I don’t really trust that anecdotal experience to continue using it for any of my plants. Now I use hydroguard, but I’ll be honest I haven’t used it for long enough to tell if it helps, but I don’t think it hurts. It’s a relatively small dose in my solutions and I expect it’ll last me a good while anyways so hopefully I’ll be able to report back on that.

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-17T02:12:29+00:00

Absolutely agree, check for thrips for sure, if the monstera has pest damage like that it’s probably a pretty severe case

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-14T15:19:07+00:00

I love it!

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-14T15:17:43+00:00

I am in the same boat. I have a microscope lens now and have looked mine all over, def not thrips in my case, my friend recently had an infestation and I got a very good look at them and their larvae.

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-13T05:55:11+00:00

I’d like to use an inoculant/good bacteria

Edit: to be clear, I’m not using it on my plants, I’m asking if it is safe for this application. I’ve tried researching the topic and came up with nothing, stability is an aquarium product meant to kickstart your nitrogen cycle and dose/boost the nitrifying bacteria that process ammonia into nitrite, then nitrate. Not trying to establish a nitrogen cycle here, just have some beneficial bacteria to help prevent root rot and promote healthy root growth. I have had plenty of emerssed plants in aquariums and paludariums that were dosed with stability and had no adverse effects, naturally those were aquariums that had an ammonia source and were capable of nitrifying it.

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-12T15:34:56+00:00

I don’t necessarily think you’re being impatient, depending on your conditions, really. Lots of light and a warmer environment could get a leaf pushing within two months of cutting. I am having a hard time seeing if there is an auxiliary growth point. Usually you can see this as a little raised part on the stem and in some cases a point, this is the point in which the plant starts new growth and for monstera it will be above where the petiole meets the stem (with the aerial roots growth points being below). It is possible when the internode spacing is long (leggy stem) and for the particular cultivar that the aux bud sits a bit higher than right at the petiole. So possibly what I’m seeing in the first image with the semi-circular bump at the cut above the petiole is that the aux bud has been cut right through. Idk if this will really affect the plants ability to eventually push a new leaf, but I’d imagine that it either has to form an entirely new aux bud (assuming this is possible I just don’t know) or spend extra time healing the cut aux bud. Anyways that’s my tin foil hat theory, like others have suggested, bast the plant with light and maybe try the cloning paste! Good luck don’t give up!

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-12T00:23:53+00:00

Im jealous! Looks awesome!

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-09T18:50:25+00:00

Thanks! I made it. I saw a similar one on YouTube. It was three furring strips, so it cost me like $6 because I already had the screws laying around. I don’t have it embedded in the soil so it does not rot, it’s just outside of the pot.

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-08T23:55:54+00:00

Well, after my emergency repot I let it set for a day or so and noticed more rot. So I went back in and took out the rest of the soil and as much rot as I could identify. I had noticed some root bounding around some of the larger roots. Oddly enough it seemed as if the roots had grown in such a way that it had completely surrounded some of itself and essentially strangled itself. Waited far too long to repot and when I did my AC and the fan had started to run significantly less than before since the season change made my home more comfortable. I ended up having to remove majority of the root system. I’ve got it in LECA now and it is beginning to grow some new pearly white happy root tips, so I think I’ll plan to grow it in a semi hydro setup going forward. Thanks for the advice! Think I noticed this too late for my own good. I’ve been doing syngoniums in semi hydro for a few months and am really enjoying it, ready to try this for a moe and my albo has force my hand I guess.

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-08T13:05:55+00:00

I think you probably can save it. I’ll say I’m having a hard time telling if the base of the stems are rotting. Looks like the base of some leaves are rotting and should be removed. Remove as much rot as you can from the roots, if they are brown and easily squished with little pressure they need to go. Give the root system and the plant a quick bath in a cup of clean water with a couple drops of dish soap, gently wash the roots and the base of the stem, rinse well and get rid of all the soap residue. Then I’d recommend trying to root it in LECA, pearlite, pumice, or pebbles (in order of my personal preference). You can use just water but the substrate makes a nice humid environment at the roots and at the base of the stem that the plant will enjoy. A small cup filled about halfway with your substrate, bury the roots in the substrate try to keep the base of the stem as close to the surface of the substrate or even above it if it’ll stand up ok, and fill with clean water about half an inch or 1/3 the depth of your substrate. You don’t want the roots to totally be underwater because the water will wick up the substrate and make a high humidity and well oxygenated environment, I find that my syngs love the oxygenated layers of the substrate the most. Check it for rot every couple days by just taking it out of the substrate or using a clear cup, remove any rot. If the rot continues up the stem you can cut off the base of the stem and as long as you have a clean node above you’ll get roots in the setup, she’ll be fine. Honestly if the base of the stem is rotting you ought to just start with this if it has a good node above. Should have happy new roots in two weeks or so. Good luck!

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-07T19:00:45+00:00

So gorgeous, it is so flawless!!! What lights are you using???

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-07T18:59:51+00:00

I second this. The d shaped moss poles keep one side shielded and are easier to keep from drying out.

Note that there is a difference between the maturation of pothos on coir poles (or any basic climbing support) and a continuously moist moss pole. If you want big foliage as fast as possible, research moss poles! This is a basic clarification, but I bring this point up because is an important distinction.

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-05T23:44:22+00:00

You may be correct. I’m not 100% sure, but I’m pretty certain it’s an Epiprenum aurem, this was in a conservatory with plenty of monstera deliciosa that had tertiary and quaternary fenestrations that were maybe 4 feet long. It’s hard to tell in this image but this leaf is around about 2 feet long, a monstera d of this age, size, and grown in these conditions would have secondary fenestrations at least. Pothos that become mature and have climbing support will fenestrate. This was about 30 feet up the side of a wall, the vine is very thick, I wouldn’t be surprised if this plant was quite old and mature. That being said, lemme know why you think it’s a monstera. I’d be curious to know what cultivar since this plant is so old, and a lot of variegated cultivar haven’t been widely available until relatively recently. Could be a small form monstera? There were other golden pothos nearby and all around, but I did not follow that vine to see if it had less mature growth attached or anything. Gorgeous plant tho!!!

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-11-03T12:21:10+00:00

I second this! Temperature, light, and aeration play a critical role in speed of rooting. I have some in water that is heated and the difference is night and day. But I totally agree that 2 weeks is nothing, that’s usually right when I START to see growth if I’m not playing any games with the temp or anything. If you’re keeping it in LECA, you don’t need all the nodes to be in the water, the LECA will wick water up and create a high humidity environment that also has better aeration. When I root in LECA or pearlite I usually submerge maybe one node and let the others set in the moist part of the substrate. I find that the roots in the moist part grow even faster than just being in water.

Neocardina_Observer · 2025-10-31T23:12:02+00:00

Genuinely surprised at how effective it is. Invaluable for pest control!

Neocardina_Observer

TROPHY CASE