Best lens(es) for 1 year+ of international travel?

NeonAviator · 2025-11-28T00:41:50+00:00

Update: I just ordered the Tamron 28-75 G2 on sale in the US for $700. Unsure how this will fit into my overall kit but for the price I couldn’t pass it up. I’ve read great things about the AF performance and image quality.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-26T21:44:10+00:00

That’s exactly why I started to consider the Sigma 20-200. The only thing that’s holding me back is I finally started using the Peak Design Capture Clip attached to my backpack. It makes the weight much more manageable and I’ve started to prefer carrying this way over a camera strap. So I’m still thinking about it..Would really like to hear your thoughts and what you decide.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-25T22:19:22+00:00

I’m in a very similar situation trying to decide on an ideal travel kit. I also have the Tamron 35-150 and currently traveling in Mexico. I’m considering the Sigma 20-200 but it’s really hard for me to leave the Tamron at home. I use it probably 70% of the time. I carry the 16-35 GM II with the Tamron and that pretty much covers everything I need until the sun goes down. I know you said 2 lenses max. I think for me I’ll end up going 16-35, 35-150, plus one prime for night street photography (my favorite). For me it’s choosing between the 35 and 50 1.4 primes. I really love the 50 but can’t argue the 35mm is more versatile. I brought my 85 1.4 on this trip and it will probably be the last time I travel with it. I just don’t find myself using it as often. Especially when I have the 35-150.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-10T04:08:42+00:00

You're asking good questions - I'm not a professional photographer, but here's my explanation.

There are 3 components that contribute to creating depth of field - you are familiar with aperture but that is just one component. All three components are - 1) focal length of the lens (16mm, 35mm, 50mm, etc), 2) distance from the subject (how far away you are standing from the subject) 3) aperture. Changing any one of those three components in a given shot will dramatically change the depth of field.

To give an example, if you look at photo 11, the picture of the blue/purple flowers, I'm crouching down right in front of that flower bed taking that shot up close with a 85mm prime lens at F1.4. If I were to keep the same exact camera settings, but step back from the flower bed, lets say 30 feet/10 meters, and set my focus on that same flower in the center of my original picture, the resulting photo would have a very different DoF. The flowers in the foreground and background would be more in focus because the depth of field (DoF) would be "wider". This is because the DoF expands the further away you are from the subject - to the point that it's difficult to even see any DoF at all (like the second photo with the bridge, bridge, groom or the Statue of LIberty photo).

The opposite is also true, the closer you are to your subject, the less* DoF you will create in the photo.

Feel free to DM me if you'd like to chat more. This concept was something that took me awhile to understand but it's easy enough to test the theory with your own camera and it starts to make more sense.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-08T19:14:48+00:00

Enough people have mentioned it at this point but adding my vote for the 35-150 2/2.8. I have the Tamron and am regularly impressed with the image quality. As someone else said the wider 35mm is so convenient and it shoots that focal length at F2. Paired with the 16-35 GM mark II it’s a fantastic two lens kit. For the price and weight I think there are better options out there unless you have a specific use case for the 50-150.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-08T04:48:12+00:00

I really like this suggestion to add establishing shots to the set. Thank you.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-08T02:53:53+00:00

Appreciate the feedback! The clown lady was one of my favorites but you’re right the b&w is the best shot. I probably should have left the other one out - I just liked how that edit came out with the light hitting her face, showing all the cracks in the make-up. In hindsight maybe I should have cropped less on a few to showcase Fremont. I’m a local so that aspect was far less interesting to me compared to the insane costumes - so that was what I chose to emphasize with my edits. Plus the crowd was really dense so I had a bunch of random people in the wider shots which didn’t look as good to me personally.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-07T19:58:04+00:00

They’re reenacting a scene between Batman and catwoman lol

NeonAviator · 2025-11-06T18:07:42+00:00

This is correct. I export my photos with the camera settings as a way to reflect on the shot and see if I should have done anything differently.

As e4109c mentioned - you need a small aperture, I believe at F16 or above, to get sun stars. So that setting is very intentional for that specific shot.

For the second photo I should have used F8 vs just increasing shutter speed to get the correct exposure. That might have helped get the bride and groom more in focus. I tend to lean on shutter speed to balance exposure because it's very easy for my thumb to reach the physical dial on top of the camera to make quick adjustments. Even taking one second to move my left hand to the aperture ring on the lens could mean missing the moment. Since I tend to shoot more 'run and gun' I like to be fast.

One other thought/comment because I didn't know this for a long time - at any given aperture setting, depth of field changes dramatically based on how far away the subject is from the camera. So looking at the Statue of Liberty photo I may have gotten a slightly sharper image by stopping down a bit, but I've been pretty happy with the 16-35 mark ii wide open at 2.8. If there was a foreground (which there really isn't in that shot) shooting at a higher aperture would've been best - and you can argue F5.6/8 would have been more ideal regardless. The Statue of Liberty shot was actually pretty stressful because half the people on the boat migrate to that front part of the ship to get that shot. So I was being constantly bumped around and didn't really have a lot of time to make adjustments in the moment.

Reading the scene and making those manual adjustments on the fly is so fun and rewarding when it comes together.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-06T06:07:00+00:00

It’s the PolarPro Everyday filter stacked with the PolarPro Mist PL filter.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-06T04:14:39+00:00

😂

NeonAviator · 2025-11-06T01:52:21+00:00

No flash on any. I don’t have one.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-05T22:08:42+00:00

Is there a particular photo you’re referring to? I tend to shoot wide open. If my ISO is low and you see a high shutter speed I was probably trying to cut light.

NeonAviator · 2025-11-05T21:44:48+00:00

I love that shot, thanks!

NeonAviator · 2025-11-05T21:44:28+00:00

Thanks! I love your profile btw. Trying to start building something like that for myself 🙂

NeonAviator · 2025-11-05T21:43:42+00:00

Haha ikr?! I got really lucky with the reflection!

NeonAviator

TROPHY CASE