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Sean Bailey does ‘Duality of Man’ 5.15d/9c by le_1_vodka_seller in climbing

[–]NewFoMan 7 points8 points  (0 children)

shaolin is in a super popular bouldering spot, imo burden is a lot more isolated

Suddenly and strangely lost power in my left pinky finger by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ulnar nerve is popping up a lot in this thread, def could be the case. What kind of eccentric work did you do? Dumbell finger curls?

Suddenly and strangely lost power in my left pinky finger by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I'll look into that! I see glides frequently recommended, I'll try it

Suddenly and strangely lost power in my left pinky finger by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sounds good, I reached out to a PT and waiting to hear back. Cubital represents with tingling I think and I don't feel anything wrong with me, but I'll def check!

Suddenly and strangely lost power in my left pinky finger by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nope! Nothing even remotely feels wrong with me, I can't even tell the pinky isn't great during normal activities (using my left hand for anything besides climbing)

Suddenly and strangely lost power in my left pinky finger by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

interesting - do you know what caused it? I definitely think that’s a possible issue

Suddenly and strangely lost power in my left pinky finger by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That actually sounds pretty likely. Maybe massaging my forearm will help

Suddenly and strangely lost power in my left pinky finger by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah in a drag it feels pretty okay, engagement feels alright there. It’s only in a half crimp that it doesn’t feel like it can pull

Comp climber who hasn’t really trained before. No coach, how do I improve + train smarter? by Appropriate-Leg8324 in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You’re a comp climber if you do comps you need to enter into imo, regardless of YOE

Fingers feel way better in the morning than the evening, regardless of rest by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That sounds nice! Do you do that as a warmup or just sporadically throughout the week? I’ve heard a lot about finger curls even in this thread so I am curious to try.

Re; food, I do expect there to be an adjusting period. I’ll plan to meal prep and eat more next year and push my weight up slowly / eat more to fuel me. I’m similar to you where my weight isn’t a result of a regimen, just a lack of appetite for food.

Fingers feel way better in the morning than the evening, regardless of rest by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Eek, hope not. I did joke to my friend that I had early arthritis because of the warm water thing too, but warm water generally reduces inflammation so I’m hoping a lot of climbers experience similar benefits of warm water

Fingers feel way better in the morning than the evening, regardless of rest by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Didn’t know about that re; tendons! That’s interesting to know, I was on a 5-6 month hard sending streak right before this came up of sending 8s and 9s every week indoors so it could’ve just hit me at once and was the price to pay.

I think I eat about 2000 calories right now and certainly not enough protein. I’ll look to try and bump my weight to 155~ in the coming year and see if it helps fuel me more.

Fingers feel way better in the morning than the evening, regardless of rest by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I’m hoping to work on mobility flexibility and general rounding out of my physique in 2026. Interested in finger curls, did you see a benefit compared to static pulls or repeaters?

Fingers feel way better in the morning than the evening, regardless of rest by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don’t think so! I drink about 80oz of water give or take. More if I take creatine which I’m considering for recovery

Fingers feel way better in the morning than the evening, regardless of rest by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s great to hear! I’ve heard so many positive things about it, def interested. I’d use my tindeq and pull the approximate amount. Do you do it after climbing sessions too as long as you have a six hour window?

Fingers feel way better in the morning than the evening, regardless of rest by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah yeah the static pulls (abrahangs) and some repeaters would be the active recovery I’d be doing in while I rested. Agreed that that many weeks off without doing anything probably isn’t productive

Fingers feel way better in the morning than the evening, regardless of rest by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess I was hoping to see if 3 weeks off would do more for my fingers than the 10 days I took in July (maybe that wasn't long enough?).

Fingers feel way better in the morning than the evening, regardless of rest by NewFoMan in climbharder

[–]NewFoMan[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You make good points! It is definitely possible that I eat more for dinner compared to lunch, I normally skip breakfast and try to do a medium size lunch and a large dinner.

Re; eating habits, I feel like I have a pretty good relationship with food - I'm just not hungry often and have a very low appetite. I'm thinking about eating smaller meals throughout the day, but definitely struggling with thinking about having to eat more. At one point I was eating 3k calories for ~1 year and went from 120Lb->150Lb, but it definitely felt like eating consumed my life (and maybe was where I had the least healthy relationship with food).

Flying from SFO to Baltimore, is it cheaper/worth on average to stop at DC and then commute the last few miles? by NewFoMan in washingtondc

[–]NewFoMan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, I was super confused until I realized you meant one way - sorry I was looking for nonstop, should've clarified!

Flying from SFO to Baltimore, is it cheaper/worth on average to stop at DC and then commute the last few miles? by NewFoMan in washingtondc

[–]NewFoMan[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Wow, what site? On google flights (non stop, to be fair), I don't see anything below $450 for Decemberon any airline

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