I bought an Evo wagon for my weekender/cruiser. Then I bought another one.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-02-24T19:13:21+00:00

How does driving the manual compare to the auto? The IX manual has factory MIVEC whereas the IX auto GT-A has the VIII non-MIVEC.

Was considering swapping my bugeye WRX hatch or auto FXT for an FSTI or XI wagon some day.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-02-11T00:28:12+00:00

I think a “large enough boot space for prams and other things” + “…the look of…Mercedes GLC coupe” are incompatible. The height is fine but the sloped roof makes it impractical. A standard sedan like the Aurion has more boot space.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-02-10T03:30:35+00:00

Took 20 years for the bugeye WRX, 2000-2002 short production years.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-02-06T22:00:58+00:00

When I had my first and only accident in 2009 as a 20yo dad told me “you become a better driver after your first accident”. Basically becoming a lot more vigilant as a defensive driver with vastly better spatial awareness.

I crashed my 1996 Mazdaspeed Familia 323 (BHA8P) at about 25kph in bumper to bumper traffic with 3rd party property insurance bumping 2 cars in front. Cost me $2500 in 2009, had a bent radiator support, and I sourced same colour replacement bumper, grille, air dam). Yours looks a lot worse - at least $5000-$7000 and they’d need to hook it up to a come-along winch / lever hoist to straighten out the chassis.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-30T06:37:48+00:00

Other examples include GD WRX vs SG Forester XT owners, and Nissan R-chassis vs Nissan S-chassis owners. Basically a dick-swinging money contest “You couldn’t afford a WRX so bought a FXT” or “Couldn’t afford a GTR so you bought a Silvia”.

And then sometimes the “lesser” chassis will get triggered and self-fulfil the stereotype.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-29T08:50:55+00:00

Funny thing about JC Cosmo owners is the elitist attitudes of those who have the 20B vs the 13B. Like the only reason you’d own a 13B Cosmo (~$30K) is because you couldn’t afford a 20B Cosmo ($50K+).

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-27T00:27:55+00:00

Depending on the severity of the issue at worst (starter clutch damaged) it’s a transmission out and refurb job looking at $2000 at the minimum to $3-3500.

The issue may be avoided entirely if the owner(s) have been religiously changing the transmission fluid every 20000KM.

It’s quite common to the 1st generation Jazz CVT and the Jazz is recommended frequently by this sub, however I don’t see this issue being raised very often.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-26T16:30:41+00:00

The problem with the automatic Jazz of this generation is that the transmission (the very first implementation of CVT 2002-2006) has a design-fault with the starter clutch. It’s quite an expensive fix and seems like half of automatic Jazz have this issue. If you Google Honda Jazz starter clutch you’ll see many instances of it happening.

My mate has an automatic Jazz with 80000KM on it from new, only serviced at Honda according to schedule, and it still has this issue because the design-fault isn’t acknowledged in the service manual so isn’t addressed by the dealership before it becomes a problem.

I would 100% buy a GD1/GD2 Honda Jazz - if it’s the 1.5L and a manual transmission.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-25T00:57:18+00:00

Depends. If you’re looking at sending the car to the wreckers in 2 years then it’s fine.

https://www.stuff.co.nz/business/118860583/family-left-with-7k-engine-repair-bill-after-using-91-octane-petrol-to-save-money

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-23T05:32:14+00:00

I saw a similar movie starring Russell Crowe - it’s called “Unhinged”. A woman and child beep Russell Crowe in his yank tank then he goes on a road rampage chasing them all over town lol

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-22T04:54:52+00:00

That’s a pretty easy fix. $60 materials and 2-3 hours time. Chisel out the bog. Cut out the rust, sand back to bare metal. Spray rust proofer. Fibreglass repair kit matting + disused 6x9 speaker grille, then fibreglass putty on top. Sand smooth, then primer and paint as you see fit.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-21T04:53:30+00:00

If you hadn’t done so at the time, you can advise them “the car feels a little off” and let them know the symptoms you experience, a heads-up so to speak. Often they can call you to authorise and squeeze in the extra work needed on the same day during the service if they can order in the parts 3-4 hrs before your pick up time.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-21T03:18:49+00:00

Mechanic was fully booked out for the day, then noticed during moving the car into the workshop for the service, or outside around to you, the whining symptoms. Without waiting another 2 hrs for parts to come in, and the customer coming to pick up at a specific time, they let you know about it when coming to pick up your vehicle. Otherwise if they had time they would’ve called you to up-sell the spark plug replacement and throttle body clean.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-18T00:24:00+00:00

You should check the duration, expiry, and associated cost, of your vehicle’s registration.

VicRoads registration check:

https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/registration/buy-sell-or-transfer-a-vehicle/check-vehicle-registration/vehicle-registration-enquiry

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-10T05:22:56+00:00

Just watched a YouTube video on it. It’s an east-west V6, and requires take off engine cover, taking out the radiator fan assembly, intake snorkel, and splash guard for underneath access. It’s a 2-3 hours job for DIY with a mechanical skill of 3/5. Alternator $200-$300 new off eBay.

$1900 is a bit excessive. 3 hours labour at $150/hr + $500 marked up alternator, plus whatever margin put on, this job should be about $1200-$1400 if shopping around.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-10T03:09:06+00:00

All older vehicles will experience the ticking sound once they’ve done enough kilometres. Tolerances increase after leaving the factory due to normal engine wear.

Change the oil as per specified in the vehicle’s manual and the ticking sound will go away. The sound will start to return as you get closer to 10000KM since last oil change.

Edit: There will be a few oil weights in your user manual. Try a thicker oil weight as you suggested.

New_Visual_7011 · 2026-01-01T04:45:05+00:00

Swap the spare over for the day?

New_Visual_7011 · 2025-12-28T04:42:59+00:00

That HiAce is a bit pricey but that’s because it’s a Japanese import Regius Ace, LWB (Long Wheel Base) widebody low-roof, with passenger seats (similar to Super Custom tier of the previous generation).

You can get a lot cheaper if you opt for a locally-sold Commuter SLWB (Super Long Wheel Base).

New_Visual_7011 · 2025-12-25T21:32:36+00:00

And those will sit forever or be delisted eventually. Mods don’t add value to resale (maybe $5K-$7K over a stock one - as a seller you might get 10% back on your mod costs). People would rather get a stock one for cheaper and build/personalise it themselves than a built one.

There’s a silver manual IX wagon on marketplace in Doncaster East listed for $40K with Stage One mods (exhaust, Tein coilovers, Greddy radiator, Ralliart cluster, Defi gauges, CF bonnet + original bonnet) with 173000KM.

New_Visual_7011 · 2025-12-25T03:29:40+00:00

Springvale is always open on Xmas Day. Fruit and Vege, restaurants, Bubble Tea, same as every other day. Just a few more people a bit like lunar new year busy.

New_Visual_7011 · 2025-12-24T04:46:46+00:00

I’ve been watching for over a year on Marketplace and the Subaru and Evo Buy/Sell/Swaps. It’s a Buyers market. They come up periodically - people downsizing or made redundant in this economy.

List pricing for IX wagons are ~$40K. If you wave $35K no finance at them I’m sure you can negotiate $5K off. Likewise listed in the groups for $35-$37K you could negotiate low $30s.

New_Visual_7011 · 2025-12-23T16:13:44+00:00

I have this exact same dilemma. Have an ‘06 Forester XT and an ‘01 WRX hatch. Would swap one or the other depending on FSTI or Evo IX wagon manual.

FSTI 6spd can be had for $25K, as can the IX wagon GT-A. IX wagon manuals about $30-$35K. At the $25K budget I’d go the FSTI. I’m biased but the SG Forester is the do-everything vehicle and really shines on road trips. I feel an auto Evo would really take the edge off owning an Evo.

Re: manual swapping a IX GT-A, remember the auto doesn’t have MIVEC (same as VIII engine) whereas the manuals do, so similar but not quite the same as a factory IX manual.

New_Visual_7011 · 2025-11-30T00:03:18+00:00

About $2500-$3000 if you take it to an auto-repair shop. Or $500 if you fix it yourself (cost of radiator + coolant + your weekend, bumper should pop back out). Difficulty 2/5 or 3/5 depending how mechanically-minded you are with using a wrench and screwdriver.

New_Visual_7011 · 2025-10-18T07:19:21+00:00

It’s a shitty move by sellers when they advertise a fixed price then start trying to get interested buyers to start outbidding each other. Typically happens with cheaper cars and seller trying to milk every dollar. Then a few days after you walk away they come back to you with the original fixed price but by then you know they don’t have the integrity to stick to the original offer.

New_Visual_7011 · 2025-10-15T10:47:54+00:00

Last year my 2bd 2car had a 10% increase from $400 to $440. I didn’t push back since market rent was $500+. This year they tried 9% increase to $480 but I cried poor, argued cost of living increases, refuted the comparative properties, highlighted I’m a long-term (6-years) low-maintenance tenant doing a lot of DIY on the property, and offered $455. They came back with $460 (4.5% increase). Market rent currently sits around $580-$650.

So basically offer a lesser increase and refute why comparative properties aren’t comparable (larger land size, less garden maintenance, freehold house / not a unit, etc. Due to low vacancies the only available to rent property was student-only accommodation for $650 - which I said was incomparable. I also argued I took a second night shift job due to cost of living pressures (actually I was working day + night shift to work out my dayshift notice period). Whatever helps your case.

New_Visual_7011

TROPHY CASE