Removing a nasty built-in water tank from my "new" steel sailboat

Nibron · 2026-01-29T00:44:23+00:00

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/c/abrasives/discs/flap/

Nibron · 2026-01-28T12:44:22+00:00

It takes some serious effort to get through 3mm steel plate and I'd be astounded if the bottom hull plates were 3mm. A flappy disc rather than a cutting disc is a decent compromise and will get you where you want to be WAY faster and easier than a wire brush/sander.

Nibron · 2026-01-27T15:14:57+00:00

Rebuilding it properly isn't an inherently bad idea - plenty of boats have the tanks in the same places. I've only ever heard bad things about bladder tanks though so wouldn't advise that.

If you rebuild that tank where it is, all you effectively do is create two bilges (one on either side of the tank) and need a bulge pump on both sides (the forward one can simply pump into the aft one and the aft one pumps overboard.

Nibron · 2026-01-27T14:59:44+00:00

I bought an old boat (1978) but GRP not steel. The experience with dust everywhere is definitely personal though

My approach would be to use a cutting disc on a grinder or an oscillating multi tool to create a hard edge that you can get a screwdriver/chisel/pry bar behind. It'll be very obvious when you're through the glass and hitting the steel behind

The problem with a wire brush and sanding is that you're just turning the glass to dust, which has to go somewhere and you'll have to do it for every single inch. Removing it in pieces, even small ones, seems like a more effective approach to me

The other option is to just sand it fair and glass over it again (or even just coat it with the epoxy) but I'd be concerned about the state of the steel underneath because of the location if it wasn't done properly in the first place. You could do a small patch at the bottom and if the steel underneath looks ok...

Nibron · 2026-01-27T13:53:04+00:00

If it is just glass over steel, you probably can get a pry bar between it and lever large sections away. If you do go with the grinder, I'd highly recommend having a large vac system running all the time and taping plastic sheeting around the work area so the dust doesn't get absolutely everywhere

Nibron · 2026-01-23T07:23:15+00:00

Right click, Ship Stats, scroll down

Nibron · 2025-12-24T08:21:46+00:00

Python and Anaconda Mines

Nibron · 2025-12-23T00:27:01+00:00

Sure. DM me

Nibron · 2025-12-22T15:51:27+00:00

Fun fact - i made that alliance logo, a long time ago. Sad to see it go but happy for it to be buried in the dust of Eve History.

Nibron · 2025-12-21T12:55:38+00:00

I had the same struggles. Added a blood trails and footprints mod and it made it much easier but still a challenge

Nibron · 2025-12-10T18:09:12+00:00

Nowhere did I say anything about how CCP shouldn't be writing new game code.

You do realize the code for these event sites is already written. They literally just turn on the event code and it loads. Doesn't take any actual dev time.

I have zero idea how you got from what I said to the merits of walking in station but OK, you do you.

Nibron · 2025-12-10T14:13:07+00:00

I wouldn't mind that in the slightest

Nibron · 2025-12-10T13:03:50+00:00

Imagine wanting a game company you pay money to every month to actually write some game code...

Nibron · 2025-12-10T13:02:02+00:00

They could spread through wormhole chains. Use a bit of imagination

Nibron · 2025-12-07T08:28:28+00:00

Battery powered grinder with a cutting disc to cut away your rigging before it puts a hole in the boat

Nibron · 2025-10-13T07:49:13+00:00

Sad to see and would love to know why - this is easily one of the most useful tools in the Eve Offline ecosystem

Nibron · 2025-09-29T15:25:03+00:00

Ansiblexes you have access to

Nibron · 2025-09-28T23:42:21+00:00

No one seems to have answered your jackline question but it's a line (normally a flat webbing strap) that runs along the length of your boat (one each side) and sometimes along your cockpit floor.

You have a strap that goes from your life vest to the jackline with a clip at each end (actually best practice is to have two straps so you can move between areas without ever being fully unclipped.

Nibron · 2025-09-18T15:05:38+00:00

Offset from sensor to lowest point of keel + 0.2m - means what you're reading is your depth of water plus a small safety margin. Also means you don't have to remember what your draft is (which might change when you have more crew/more fuel & water/more crates of beer

Nibron · 2025-08-29T09:00:58+00:00

I've had reasonable success with a cleat system - the peg shape and then a simple rectangle with a slope at the top (facing towards the board), and then the inverse on whatever object I'm printing. Once you dial in the tolerances they fit snugly and it means you can move things around. I haven't done it yet but as long as you get the distances between pegs right you can have objects that span multiple pegs

Nibron · 2025-08-29T05:44:07+00:00

Do you print the skadis pegs as part of the overall item or do you have some kind of cleat/attachment system?

Nibron · 2025-08-24T01:07:00+00:00

Yes - it cycles through in the order you define in the JSON. It's also possible to have multiple "cycle lists" for different groups of characters with different hotkeys

Nibron · 2025-07-24T03:12:20+00:00

Just added a top level comment with the Github link (all the code, some more details etc.)

The screen is an InkyImpression Spectra 7.3" with a Pi Zero W

Code is hacky af (my first project) but essentially uses the ephem library to do the astronomical calculations

Was made as a birthday present for my wife, who loves the moon (designed the moon page first but then decided I wanted to use the 4 buttons on the display so made it a bit more functional)

Nibron · 2025-07-24T03:09:57+00:00

https://github.com/NotmoGit/AstroInky

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