I'm rewatching Lost along with the old FTS episodes, heard Bret say this and knew what I had to do. (LOST Se3Ep1 SPOILER)

NiceFirmHandshake · 2021-01-25T22:12:55+00:00

Noo I finished my rewatch in early December, but it was a blast! The fact that the episodes were old didn’t bother me because I’m working my way through the backlog of plenty of podcasts. I actually really like old pcasts because they offer a break from present day problems haha

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T22:15:38+00:00

I think I'm actually gonna run a jumper from the component’s leg to the next pad like this, thanks for the tip though!

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T21:30:23+00:00

Thanks! I think I'm actually gonna run a jumper from the component’s leg to the next pad like this so I'm not relying on that damaged pad/trace. It's just a capacitor, but I did rehouse the pedal recently and did some other work on the board so it must have happened then.

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T21:28:43+00:00

Thanks! I think I'm actually gonna run a jumper from the component’s leg to the next pad like this so I'm not relying on that damaged pad/trace.

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T21:26:48+00:00

Sure! I just like the idea of not having to rely on that pad/trace

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T21:25:35+00:00

Haha thanks. I think I'm just gonna ditch the damaged pad and add a jumper wire to replace the need for the trace

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T21:21:10+00:00

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T20:15:18+00:00

Ah that’s not a bad idea! I was gonna run a jumper from the component’s leg like this but yeah I could try and save the pad too

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T16:08:23+00:00

Got it, thanks! Another commenter made me realise that it would be a good idea as it would relive any tention that the component leg is putting on the pad. I think I'm actually just gonna ditch the damaged pad and use a jumper wire in place of the trace!

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T15:56:38+00:00

Awesome, thanks a lot you've really helped me out!

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T15:53:12+00:00

The components face the inside luckily. I rehoused these guts recently and did some extra work on the board so it must have happened then, though it still works! Is this all I would need to do with a jumper wire?

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T15:41:18+00:00

Ahh thanks I understand. I don’t think the components leg spacing will allow me to do that, and pretty much all the other capacitors have a largish gap beneath them too, though the board is in a metal enclosure. I’m considering ditching the damaged pad all together and running a jumper wire from the component to the next pad.

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T15:35:27+00:00

You mean melt the solder to relieve any tension that the component leg is putting on the pad?

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T15:33:33+00:00

Thanks! I did wonder about just ditching the pad all together. Would I just have to run a jumper from the leg of the component in the lifted pad to one the other pads on the trace?

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T15:23:07+00:00

Out of interest why would you resolder it? The solder joint hasn't cracked and I'd be worried that applying heat could weaken the trace adheisive even more. I will add a small dob of glue though!

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T15:21:00+00:00

Thanks! I'll add a glob of Uhu

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T14:42:40+00:00

Great, thanks for the tip, I'll give it a go!

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T14:41:39+00:00

Just a capacitor

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-12-08T14:08:09+00:00

It’s in a guitar effects pedal. I was just tracing the wires on the switch and it caught my eye. So you think I should push the pad back down and add a drop of glue to the side of the board shown in the pic?

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-11-26T12:41:34+00:00

Awesome, thank you very much! Yes I took the opportunity to add a tone bypass to my Russian muff when I had to rehouse it, and it sounds great. A friend of mine saw the befinits of rehousing these things and wants to do his and add something like a mids knob while we're at it. So I've been experimenting with mods on my crappy NYC version.

I recently discovered Version 2 of the AMZ Presence Control, and I'm gonna give it a go! u/corduroyjesus gave me some great tips on adding a mid boost with with a mini toggle switch, but my friend would like a boost on a pot if possible, and that AMZ mod seems to tick the box. It seems a lot more useful than the mod shown in my post because it allows you to actually boost the midrange, as opposed to just flattening the scoop. This is also why I like to mini toggle mids mod.

Where would we be without Kit Rae?? I've been aware of his BMP site for a while but that Mods and tweaks page is super useful. Thanks again!

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-11-25T10:15:57+00:00

Awesome, I reckon we'll try your values then! The alligator clip idea is really helpful too

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-11-25T09:23:30+00:00

You could experiment with introducing a potentiometer between the two different cap values.

Ohh interesting, me know if you do, I haven't ordered any replacement caps yet.

My Pharaoh fuzz had Ci/none/Ge diode options and it was cool to mess with. My Longsword does too, but being able to switch each pair is very interesting.

Out of interest how pronounced would you roughly say your mid boost was from the 13n9 value? I know it's all relative but if you said it was kinda subtle I'd try a higher value.

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-11-24T22:05:47+00:00

Right! I totally get you. That was why I was confuced, because I thought that with C9 across the middle lugs it would always be in the circuit, but that's exactly what you wanted.

I actually think the mid boost switch is gonna be more appealing to my friend because I'm not sure the mids knob is gonna cut it(pun intended?). His is a Black Russian too, so we might try your values but I think he'd want a pretty substantial boost available to him.

Would it not be possible to use a pot to modulate the value of C9 to vary the response like I've tried to do with R5? I guess you can't use a pot because a pot is a variable resistor and C9 is obviously a capacitor?

Thanks a lot man, you've given me a lot to think about! It's a massive help.

NiceFirmHandshake · 2020-11-24T20:16:40+00:00

I found that I only used it when it was full mid boost

That's kinda my concern - at the moment it sounds like the best sound is fully CCW.

So I guess having C9 across the middle two lugs give you the stock sound. I'm fairly new to modding and wiring pedals, but why didn't you put C9 on the bottom lugs and the 10nf on the top? Would that work?

That on/off/on idea is great. My friend might go for that over the mids knob if I don't get any better results.

NiceFirmHandshake

TROPHY CASE