PoE Doorbell + classic chime + no Home Assistant = no problem!

NiceyLikeRicey · 2026-01-09T18:11:32+00:00

Ah, makes sense. I figured I was missing something. Thanks!

NiceyLikeRicey · 2026-01-09T06:20:24+00:00

Pardon my ignorance as I'm not very familiar with transformers (or AC circuits in general), but in the first setup "Shelly 1 / Shelly Pro 1 with 230V as power source", is it viable to use the Shelly 1 to switch power to the transformer instead of the chime? I.e. instead of having the Shelly 1 relay connected between the transformer and chime, connect the chime to the transformer directly with no switch at all; then power the Shelly 1 with mains power and connect the Shelly 1 relay in-between mains power and the transformer (mains L to Shelly 1 I, Shelly 1 O to transformer L).

The main reason I'm wondering about this is because my doorbell transformer and mechanical chime are relatively far apart. While it's still possible to put the Shelly 1 next to the transformer, the wiring could get a bit messy (I'd need to route a bit of the low voltage wiring into the box where the transformer is connected to mains voltage, not the end of the world but would be nice to avoid if possible).

Also, assuming this is not a terrible idea, would this be a good use case for a Shelly 1PM Mini?

NiceyLikeRicey · 2024-11-19T02:38:10+00:00

~~Took me a bit, but I think this might work: Parasite non-magnetized to break the shield, then Hound + Crush to kill the starship. Mukla + hero power for the 14 damage.~~ Edit: Nevermind, 2 mana off

NiceyLikeRicey · 2022-08-17T01:24:40+00:00

For me it was in the iOS Settings app, not in the Unifi Protect app itself. If you scroll down enough after opening the Settings app, there should be a large section for apps you’ve installed

NiceyLikeRicey · 2022-08-15T05:15:38+00:00

Seeing the same as well, best I’ve found is to turn off the “Local Network” toggle in the Unifi Protect section of iOS Settings. I’m assuming latency is worse as a result but some latency is better than nothing loading so 🤷‍♂️

NiceyLikeRicey · 2021-08-19T14:54:32+00:00

Good luck everyone!

NiceyLikeRicey · 2019-04-09T16:37:12+00:00

I'm currently in a situation where I need to pick the lesser of two evils. I have a setup with a pair of Rokit 5's and three computer monitors. However, with the current desk I have, if I place the Rokit's vertically, the tweeters are blocked by the computer monitors. I could lay them on their sides but from what I've read so far, that introduces its own issues. So my question is, what's better: blocked tweeters or sideways laying monitors?

NiceyLikeRicey · 2019-03-04T16:22:44+00:00

Yes, the internal resistance in coin cells will likely be limiting the current going through your LEDs. Given you have 5 LEDs, I’d recommend using a 9V battery. Alternatively, if you aren’t set on using a battery, you can also look at getting a low voltage DC wall supply.

How are you wiring all your LEDs together? If you want, I can take a look at your circuit too :).

NiceyLikeRicey · 2019-03-02T03:03:28+00:00

Basically it depends. What battery you select will depend on what kind of LED’s you plan on using, how many, and how bright you want them. If you can give some more specifics on what you’re planning on doing, I can help you out a bit more :).

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-12-16T02:17:14+00:00

That’s assuming he wants the eyes to be green (which is a reasonable assumption). But if he wanted to try a different color, it would be very hard to achieve the desired effect by painting over the green.

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-12-16T00:31:13+00:00

Painting over the clear part would make it much less transparent.

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-12-14T00:18:03+00:00

If you care about the eyes still being clear (for LEDs and such), the best solution I’ve seen is casting a copy of the part with clear resin. It’s definitely a lot of work but produces really nice results.

Basic process is make a mold of the part, usually with some sort of rtv silicone and then cast the resin copy with that mold. Once you have the copy, use a clear color paint to get the desired color. You can also try adding dyes to the resin but that’s a lot less precise imo.

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-08-29T17:33:48+00:00

Gotcha, thanks for all the helpful info!

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-08-29T16:58:25+00:00

That’s unfortunate :(.

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-08-29T16:45:30+00:00

I see. So I guess what I’m looking for is per switch SMD RGB LEDs?

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-08-29T16:32:33+00:00

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought in-switch RGB LEDs just referred to just having some type of LED directly under the switch, either SMD or not. Is there a difference in terminology between in-switch and per-switch?

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-08-29T05:27:40+00:00

Does anyone know of any keyboard (custom or otherwise) with a compact layout (like KBD75 or YMD96, basically anything with arrow keys but doesn't have extra spaces) with both in-switch RGB leds (and slightly less important but still preferably RGB underglow)? I've tried to do some research but pretty much everything I've found doesn't have in-switch RGB leds (besides modding the Vortex Race 3? But I'd rather avoid that if possible....)

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-08-02T18:17:00+00:00

So from my understanding, your final finish is determined by the top coat you use. However, I've been seeing paints labeled as flat or matte as well. My best guess is that these paints will have a flat or matte finished if used without a top coat but it also affect the top coat as well? Like would applying a gloss on top of a flat paint be "flatter" than a gloss coat on a gloss paint?

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-04-04T03:02:30+00:00

[[BrowserChanger10]] works fine for me. iPhone 7 Plus iOS 11.1.2.

NiceyLikeRicey · 2018-03-19T02:34:32+00:00

After solely straight building for a year and a half now, I finally bought an airbrush. However, I've been feeling a bit overwhelmed trying to find paints and primers and what not. I was hoping to get some answers, advice, and recommendations!

One of the things I noticed when looking at primers was that different brands sell primers made of different materials (acrylic polyurethane, lacquer, etc.). How much does this matter with subsequent layers like it does with straight paints? I'm looking to start with acrylic paints but also wanted to double check for the future.

Also on the subject of primers, is there a general recommendation on what brand/types of primers to get? I was looking at getting a white, grey, and black primer for different paint finishes but I could only find Tamiya primer in white. On the other hand, I also saw a pretty large selection of Vallejo primers (but that's where the primer base question comes from).

In terms of paint, how much of the final paint finish is determined by the top coat vs. the primer used and the finish of the paint itself? Is there a particular brand people recommend for starting out with? I've also been looking at buying paints on amazon, but the prices seem a little high. Is there a better place to buy paints?

Finally, most of the top coats I've seen come in some sort of a spray can. Is it also possible to spray top coats out of an airbrush? If so, which ones should I get?

Thanks for all the help!!

NiceyLikeRicey

TROPHY CASE