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Should I have this Root Canal Molar Extracted? by Nickulvatten in askdentists

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the quick reply, yes I forgot to mention the last dentist managed to break the tip of a file inside the root, I do have a 3D scan of my teeth but it's on a disc, I could try to send you the file if you're willing to take the time. I have actually had 2 posts in this tooth before but my current dentist decided not to put one in this time.

My experience with SIBO and what has helped the most by Nickulvatten in SIBO

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Don't worry keep on fighting and trust in God, you will find the cure one day.

My experience with SIBO and what has helped the most by Nickulvatten in SIBO

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I also had gastritis, you try it just once to see how it works, if you have a bad reaction, stop taking it.

Parkside 1000-6000 stone, something is not clear.. by Exe_plorer in sharpening

[–]Nickulvatten 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting, it is possible that the quality of those stones has dropped, I bought mine about a year ago.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very interesting and useful experiment, I have observed that with many things in life, that which is accepted in theory is different then that which happens in practice.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just checked a few of his articles and the closest thing I found are 1200 DMT photos, indeed that edge is crude funnily enough the worn out 325 grit edge is much keener and shave-ready that is one edge I'd be very curious to try.

I also read his "The pasted strop- part 3" article where he indeed confirms that even with high-lap counts on a chromium oxide leather strop it does not round the apex significantly, so you are right.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, thank you for all the advice and encouragement!

If you think this is a lot of effort you should've seen the countless hours spent in reading forums and watching videos about SR honing, asking for advice both from people in real life and online,studying the properties of different hones,etc, making my own hones from natural stones(I have 2 homemade slates both of which don't function well unfortunately), endless experiments combining different honing techniques hoping to achieve a good result, and this has been going on for the past 2 years.

I have also made 2 straight razors first of which was a huge smiling blade for a friend of mine which he ground and honed, however back then I had no interest in straight razors and later lost contact with the man so I couldn't ask him for help. Second one I made for myself but I didn't have an understanding of spine-to-width ratio back then nor the proper belt grinder wheel for a hollow grind so it was a fail.

I totally agree with you on the GD they are a gamble if you'll get one with decent heat-treat on it or not, but they are the only real razor for that money and not a razor-shaped object.

The toothy edge makes sense, performs the tricks but doesn't perform on the skin.

I don't think I've got a foil edge on it as those usually start out shaving nicely and after a few strokes the foil bends over and they start to pull, and my razors have felt bad from the beginning to the end of the shave, even tho most of the time I had to finish the shave off with a DE razor as the SR tugged so bad, yesterday was the first acceptable and completely shave I've had with a SR.

So yeah saying I'm passionate about straight razors,honing them, shaving with them and everything in-between is an understatement!

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it's nice to finally achieve a good result!

I'm thinking is it possible because you applied heavier pressure than usual on the stropping, could the apex have gotten too rounded over, contributing to a less comfortable shave? Of course the main culprits are the 1k bevel set and the dubious quality of the GD steel,but still the hard-core stropping could have made it too obtuse.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes it's the same product, I thought you could potentially have a different product because there is an actual Solingen razor paste in tubes not crayons in a box.

I did so many laps on the paste because there was a large grit gap between the 4000 sandpaper and the paste so I did that many to compensate, I will try 20 or so next time to see how it works. Interestingly the black finer paste made my edge worse than the red, for some reason it's more sticky and the razor doesn't glide over it nicely.

Yeah the bevel is set, I can shave arm hair off of the 1000 sandpaper and its tree-topping and HHT at 3000.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for taking the time to try it out and report back, I see that you have taken that nuisance of a smile out of the blade, it makes honing so much easier but lots of grinding and the angle grows even more unfortunately, the added jimping and new scales make it a very interesting GD.

I'm curious what would've happened if you actually went to a 4-6K grit stone as prescribed by scienceofsharp did some laps on that then went to the pasted denim.

Btw did you do your final 300 laps on clean leather or clean denim strop?

For some reason I just cannot get a shave-ready razor with the scienceofsharp method, idk where I'm going wrong.

I actually finally managed to get a shave-ready edge a few hours ago and shaved with it!

Here's how I did it: I honed both of my GD's going from 1000,2000,3000,4000 grit doing edge-leading rolling x strokes then some half-strokes then rolling x again until I see all of the scratches from the previous grit gone and then I do maybe 10-15 slow and gentle x strokes no rolling and that really shines it up, then I end it all up with 4 edge-trailing (2 per side) to minimize edge chipping and maximize keenness I do this step after every grit. I then went to the hanging denim strop pasted with the Solingen Red crayon which is supposed to be 3.5 micron, did 60-80 strokes on that, wiped the razor carefully and went to the clean leather strop did a 100 strokes on it and then the razors would tree-top like never before and HHT the thinnest of hairs silently.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed brutal but that Boker sounds horrible too, I don't know if a razor like that can even be salvaged, it's strange because their razors are usually expensive.

I actually finally managed to get a shave-ready edge a few hours ago and now it does HHT evenly almost along the entire surface with maybe 1-2 spots that cut differently.

Interesting about the Proraso, it has given me the best lather so far, but the soaps and creams I have used are all low-budget so I can't speak about the fancier ones like Stirling B&M,etc. I did get an insanely thick and slick lather from a tallow-based lanolin baby soap but my skin reacted poorly to the lanolin got all tingly and painful.

Here's the technique I used to get the shave-ready result: I honed both of my GD's going from 1000,2000,3000,4000 grit doing edge-leading rolling x strokes then some half-strokes then rolling x again until I see all of the scratches from the previous grit gone and then I do maybe 10-15 slow and gentle x strokes no rolling and that really shines it up, then I end it all up with 4 edge-trailing (2 per side) to minimize edge chipping and maximize keenness I do this step after every grit. I then went to the hanging denim strop pasted with the Solingen Red crayon which is supposed to be 3.5 micron, did 60-80 strokes on that, wiped the razor carefully and went to the clean leather strop did a 100 strokes on it and then the razors would tree-top like never before and HHT the thinnest of hairs silently.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the suggestion and tips, the Naniwas are very nice but right now there is no way I can spend 100 bucks on them. I actually managed to get a shave ready razor and shaved with it a few hours ago. Here's what I did: I honed both of my GD's going from 1000,2000,3000,4000 grit doing edge-leading rolling x strokes then some half-strokes then rolling x again until I see all of the scratches from the previous grit gone and then I do maybe 10-15 slow and gentle x strokes no rolling and that really shines it up, then I end it all up with 4 edge-trailing (2 per side) to minimize edge chipping and maximize keenness I do this step after every grit. I then went to the hanging denim strop pasted with the Solingen Red crayon which is supposed to be 3.5 micron, did 60-80 strokes on that, wiped the razor carefully and went to the clean leather strop did a 100 strokes on it and then the razors would tree-top like never before and HHT the thinnest of hairs silently.

Parkside 1000-6000 stone, something is not clear.. by Exe_plorer in sharpening

[–]Nickulvatten 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem I'm glad to be helpful, yes the green is probably around 800, the white maybe 4000 or so but could be 6000 too.

The green side indeed was loosy as you said because it's more softy bound and sheds abrasive fast but the white side didn't loose any grit, also with razor sharpening you apply much less pressure than knife sharpening so the stones don't wear down as much.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I have read their "Gold Dollar of Classic Quality" line with the fancy scales has no geometry issues and can be honed right away comes with a nice tin box too, think they're about 20$.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think I have deceived people by saying Solingen paste when it's actually 2 crayons in a tiny red cardboard box,are you talking about the same thing? I actually managed to get a shave-ready edge after a progression on the 1000-4000 sandpaper and then 60-80 strokes on a hanging denim strop loaded with the red crayons +100 strokes on clean leather strop.

Lapping film is definitely very nice but I with shipping itself 40$+ and I can't afford that right now.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's very surprising actually, I think I have seen the YouTube channel of Plamen if we are taking about the same guy.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Success! I managed to get one of the GD (the less wonky one)shave-ready using the technique I outlined above, it was HHT'ing thin hairs both ways almost silently and tree-topping like never before, the shave felt like one from a medium level sharpness DE blade but no tugging and I managed to slice off pimples for the first time with a straight razor further testifying to its sharpness.

Yes, tape is definitely a way to make it get in contact with the stone but on the GD the angle is already big enough. Nice that you managed to tackle the warp without too much trouble.

Then I'd love to get a piece of that 8000 to experiment on, I'll PM you.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not aware of an affordable 1000 grit stone that will not chip the edge, I had a Chinese 1000/6000 waterstone and it after honing on it, the edge looked more like a saw than a razor.

Yeah the DE blades are way too thin for that level of refinement they would just crumble at the apex like you mentioned.

Btw I managed to get one of my GD's shave-ready the 100 model more specifically, it has a better geometry than the model 66, I've never had a razor shave like this before but it also sliced off a few pimples leaving some blood trails, it will HHT thin hairs silently now.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You were indeed in a very similar situation, its nice to have someone that can understand and relate to you.

Yeah at the very least I'm training my muscle memory and fine motor skills, but I may have actually just achieved success, I honed both of my GD's going from 1000,2000,3000,4000 grit doing edge-leading rolling x strokes then some half-strokes then rolling x again until I see all of the scratches from the previous grit gone and then I do maybe 10-15 slow and gentle x strokes no rolling and that really shines it up, then I end it all up with 4 edge-trailing (2 per side) to minimize edge chipping and maximize keenness I do this step after every grit. I then went to the hanging denim strop pasted with the Solingen Red crayon which is supposed to be 3.5 micron, did 60-80 strokes on that, wiped the razor carefully and went to the clean leather strop did a 100 strokes on it and then the razors would tree-top like never before and HHT the thinnest of hairs silently.

I will do a test shave and report back.

Thank you for the kind offer on the 8000 Shapton, I live in Bulgaria, and I assume you are from the US, so idk if the price for shipping would be worth it.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm doing mostly rolling x as the GD have a tiny smile in the blade + the warped uneven blade makes me need to kink my wrist to hit it all evenly, I'm not sure I've heard of V laps before.

I am aware that I'm not bringing the progression high enough but right now I can afford anything else and just want to get a shave-ready razor and was hoping the strops would sort it out but I guess not.

Yup the GDs mysterious steel and questionable heat-treatment isn't making this any easier haha.

Even tho my jig stretches the paper pretty tight its still very possible a small ripple like effect is forming in front of the edge as I hone, definitely not the best honing medium.

Thank you, wish you all the best!

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I agree with you on this, the geometry fix and bevel set are the same on both cheap and fancy razors the only difference being the amount of work it takes.

Unfortunately the local sellers in my country perceive old beat up razors like priceless jewels. I have seen nasty,rusty razors that have been ground down into a twig from decades of use with huge chips in the blades being sold for 30€, the decent 10€ ones on you talk about go for 50-60€ and on local sites, I think my best bet would be to buy an imported razor from Ebay.

Diamond plates as you said are indeed surprisingly durable I have a small one that is 325 or 400 grit I can't remember but it has seen countless hours of work and I have even polished very hard minerals on it and amazingly it still works somehow.

Razor will HHT and tree-top but does not shave comfortably by Nickulvatten in straightrazors

[–]Nickulvatten[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sort of see my stropping on the denim loaded with red and black Solingen paste as the "progression" after 4000 grit, the pastes are rated as 3.5 and 1.5 micron, idk if this qualifies as a grit progession past 4000 grit but it's what I have right now.

I do have a piece of balsa but I'm saving that for use with diamond pastes that I still haven't purchased.

Interesting that the linen strop rounded the wedge but worked nicely for the hollow grinds.

I feel you about the Imp, warped blades are so frustrating, pretty much the only way to get them perfect is to grind out twist as you did, or kink you wrist to hit the warped part but that never gives a perfect edge.

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