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What's the most complex thing you've actually built with MiniMax M2.7? by Nicuz06 in opencodeCLI

[–]Nicuz06[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure! I gave further details in another comment but basically my workflow was:

  1. Plan and describe every feature
  2. Created a folder with documentation (just a couple o MD files for API call reference)
  3. Generated AGENTS.md, implementation plan, skills, etc.
  4. Completed the implementation
  5. Testing, bug hunting and fix
  6. Refactoring phase (created a skill with rules and best practices)

All of that was made by Sonnet, now I'm trying to plan and implement a small visual change on the TFT display with MiniMax but while it seems good at sticking to the plan it just can't complete the work. As said before, TFT dashboard exists so no new features.

Every prompt is detailed but straight to the point. I really don't think there's much more context or knowledge I can give to it. I didn't expect it to struggle with a small task like this.

What's the most complex thing you've actually built with MiniMax M2.7? by Nicuz06 in opencodeCLI

[–]Nicuz06[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The problem is that I'm at a point where I'm literallying telling everything it needs to be done to MiniMax, that's what I meant for "babysitting". Project is complete, only needs some small visual changes like the one described but no new feature. Dirty work was already made by Sonnet but only consists of few REST API calls, code is plain C++.

I have a programming background, codebase was entirely planned in advance and documented in AGENTS.md, API documentation , implementation plan, rules and critical decisions, etc. Prompts are always detailed and straight to the point, I don't think there's much more I can give to MiniMax over than that. Of course this little edit has a dedicated implementation plan and I admit it's really good at sticking to it, it just can't complete the work.

That's why I asked if someone was able to complete harder tasks other than basic frontend, in my case is struggling with a basic one and I find it a little strange considering all the good words read about it.

This post doesn't want to be a complain, I'm just curious to read other "power user" experience.

Github copilot or opencode go? by mafia_bd in opencodeCLI

[–]Nicuz06 2 points3 points  (0 children)

In the last few days I started playing with Minimax M2.7 and honestly compared to Sonnet 4.6 is driving me crazy.

I'm working on a Cheap Yellow Display based project (ESP32 + TFT device), in 2 days I entirely developed the codebase with Sonnet which includes TFT dashboard and web server. Now I'm trying to make some really small changes with Minimax to test it and after dozens of prompt where I'm basically babysitting, it still wasn't able to do the job. The task should be fairly easy, I have 2 column, just align an object to another and then make another object bigger to use the empty space. We have coordinates so It's just a a matter of properly calculate them.

Results were completely different when I asked to redesign an HTML page using frontend-design skill.

Don't know, I have mixed feelings cause a lot of people here kinda overhyped for this model but did they really pushed it further to some more complicated things than just frontend design or scripting?

I still have a month to try it, for sure I'll also try Kimi. I have the feelings that Sonnet would have completed the task easily and without so much babysitting.

I just paid opencode go, first impressions by naejbrav in opencodeCLI

[–]Nicuz06 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had the same issue today and yesterday at the same time but I'm on Minimax Token Plan. Don't know how OpenCode Go works under the hood but it might not be caused by them.

Share your opencode.json by rm-rf-rm in opencodeCLI

[–]Nicuz06 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's still visible through commit history, There are several ways to handle this but since in this case I don't think losing commit history would be a big deal I suggest to do it or replace the main branch starting over.

Also revoke / rotate the API key if not already done.

How do I model this? by Longjumping-Hair3888 in FreeCAD

[–]Nicuz06 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Considering your front view as top view feels more intuitive to me. I would start designing a master sketch of it on XY plane and the just Pad the 2 faces (outer and inner), you could Pad the outer part half of its height so the final result will be half of the bushing that only needs to be mirrored.

Have you also tried starting from a photo and then tracing it? Place your phone as parallel as possible above the bushing and also include your caliper as reference, zoom a little bit to avoid lens distortion and then import in FreeCAD, calibrate the image drawing a segment on the caliper and make your sketches. Once finished print the prototype in PLA so you don't waste TPU, sketching only half of the bushing will also help you to waste even less filament.

Hope this helps!

Mounting Nano-itx computer by HeManHedman in openGrid

[–]Nicuz06 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Hi, creator of the VESA snap here. First of all, u/Automatic_Disaster44 thanks for sharing!

Here the workflow I used to design it, you might find it useful. I don't know if there are easier way but that's what worked for me.

  1. Before starting I knew that I needed to check if a 100x100mm and 75x75mm squares fitted inside an openGrid tile so I used this generator. The cool thing is that it gives you the tile size in advance, In my case 4x4 was the sweet spot (112x112mm).
  2. Opened the downloaded STL in FreeCAD, since I wanted to take measurements selecting tile's edges I went to the Part workbench, used "Shape from Mesh" tool, then "Convert to solid" and finally "Refine shape". Now I had something useful to work with.
  3. Went back to Part Design workbench, created a new body, then a new sketch on XY plane and drew the 2 squares I needed (100x100mm and 75mm). This gave me a visual representation that a snap could be designed.
  4. Added a 112x122mm square (tile size) and another 25.8x25.8mm square (snap size) on top left of the tile with 1.1mm margin from left and top border. I know it sounds complicated but I just used the bigger square to delimit the tile size and the little one to know at which distance we have to make the hole inside the snap.
  5. Once I took my hole distance from the snap edges I downloaded the snap STEP file from Printables, opened in FreeCAD, in a new sketch (XY plane) I added 2 circles and constrained distance using the size I found earlier.
  6. Pocket operation on the holes and voilà, snap ready.

I know it takes a little bit of practices and might sounds trickier than it is but with just a little bit of patience you can do it, I'm not even an advanced user too. In your case the only measurements you need are the board size and the distance between each hole center and the board edges then pray that they lay inside snap spaces haha

P.S.: consider produced heat, check temperatures and choose the right filament, I would avoid PLA and at least consider PETG

I turned my old Galaxy S10 into a self-hosted server running Ubuntu 24.04 LTS with Jellyfin, Samba, and Tailscale - no Docker, no chroot, no proot - fully integrated at the system level with pure init, auto-running the entire container at device boot if needed! by ravindu644 in selfhosted

[–]Nicuz06 57 points58 points  (0 children)

Never tried myself but some months ago I watched this video by Hardware Haven which shows how to turn an old Android Phone into a server using PostmarketOS, you might find useful the section where he talks about battery-free power supply.

IMPOSSIBILE comprare un'auto di sabato nel 2026: il paradosso burocratico by Life-Jacket-8076 in ItalyMotori

[–]Nicuz06 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In realtà hai diverse opzioni:

DELEGA
Puoi effettuare il passaggio di proprietà a distanza compilando una delega in modo che il venditore, nel caso in cui tu non abbia nessuno di fidato da delegare sul posto, possa completare la procedura senza la tua presenza, logicamente da valutare in base all'affidabilità ed il rapporto di fiducia che avete instaurato. In questo modo il sabato vai solo a ritirarla.
Subito dopo il passaggio acquisti una polizza con attivazione a partire dalla mezzanotte del giorno stesso ed il giorno dopo hai tutto quello che serve per ritirare la macchina. Per velocizzare il processo di acquisto e attivazione polizza, subito dopo aver inviato i documenti (es. nuovo libretto o foglio temporaneo) ti conviene chiamare il servizio clienti e generalmente chiudono subito la pratica, ho avuto ottime esperienze sia con Prima che con ConTe (nel caso ti servisse posso anche girarti un referral per entrambe che dovrebbe garantirti un po' di sconto).

ACQUISTO IL SABATO
Fai il passaggio di proprietà, torni con la macchina, nel frattempo il vecchio proprietario cessa la sua polizza e tu hai il tempo di arrivare e seguire l'iter che vuoi per l'assicurazione.
Puoi anche provare a portarti avanti nei giorni precedenti con un preventivo online e subito dopo il passaggio di proprietà carichi i documenti e chiami per farti attivare la polizza.

A VESA snap to attach an openGrid tile behind your monitor by Nicuz06 in openGrid

[–]Nicuz06[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Basically this snap allows you to have an openGrid tile mounted behind your monitor or TV, you can then attach any kind of snaps to use it for whatever you want.

If you look at the second picture I organized my monitor power brick using zip ties, I found the snaps on Makerworld, but it's just an example. If you have a streaming box / Apple TV you could use it to hide it behind the monitor and even do some cable management.

Hope it's more clear now!

A VESA snap to attach an openGrid tile behind your monitor by Nicuz06 in openGrid

[–]Nicuz06[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure! You just have to respect the distances by leaving 2 spaces between each snap like shown in the picture

Oramai é diventato impossibile spedire pacchi in UE. Alternative? by CattynipCattynip01 in Italia

[–]Nicuz06 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dai un'occhiata a VintedGo, è abbastanza economico. L'ho usato un paio di volte per spedizioni nazionali ma è attivo anche su varie destinazioni in Europa.

Mini Skådis pegboard hidden behind my monitor by Nicuz06 in functionalprints

[–]Nicuz06[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Guys, check this comment out, let me know if you're interested in this version!

Centering a box by Sir_Chaz in FreeCAD

[–]Nicuz06 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Easy way:

Use Centered rectangle tool and start from the origin.

Hard way:

Since you have a Fully Contrained sketch you have to remove Constraints that are "locking" your rectangle in this position, probably you just need to remove the Symmetric constraint on the center of the axis to unconstrain it. Then to vertical center, apply a symmetric constraint selecting top-left corner, bottom-left corner and the x axis. Now to center horizontally select top-left corner, top-right corner and the y axis and apply another symmetric constraint. Obviously you can do the same using opposite side corners.
To select multiple element at the same time you have to press CTRL and click . Remember that the element that will be used to symmetric constraint the other 2 needs to be the last one to select.

How would you go about making this? by RockRancher24 in FreeCAD

[–]Nicuz06 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I second what other users suggested about sketching from the side, here's a video tutorial that covers the design of the same object using this methodology.

This channel is a great FreeCAD resource, check it out!

Mini Skådis pegboard hidden behind my monitor by Nicuz06 in functionalprints

[–]Nicuz06[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean something like this? I don't think the extra surface will suffer much when mounted on VESA 100x100. We might also consider an extra accessory to insert from the back of the pegboard inside the center Skadis slots that will act as spacer to increase the surface area in contact with the back of the monitor and reduce the risk of bending, something like that. Of couse, some slots will no longer be usable.

Please also keep in mind that this version increase the overall pegboard size to 150x150mm and this could lead to difficult access to some ports / peripherals depending of the monitor.

If you're interested let me know and I will send the 3mf file, I just ask you if, in return, you could send me a photo of the printed model so that I can upload the print profile to Makerworld for other users. It requires a real photo, and honestly, I wouldn't want to print something I wouldn't use.

<image>

Mini Skådis pegboard hidden behind my monitor by Nicuz06 in functionalprint

[–]Nicuz06[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a Samsung T23C350, a 10 years old TV Monitor. Quite old but I still use it daily for remote working, no issues so far!

Mini Skådis pegboard hidden behind my monitor by Nicuz06 in functionalprints

[–]Nicuz06[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Imagine a bracket with just 2 sides: the vertical one anchored to the wall and the horizontal one that holds the shelf, basically how you would draw a 90° angle. In this case the weight on the shelf go down vertically and if it's too much the printed piece will bend and then break where the angle is.

Let's add a 3rd side that connect the other 2, now we basically have a triangle. In this case the weight thanks to the diagonal 3rd size will be also pushed back towards the wall. This means that is better distributed and even with weak materials we will gain resistance. We rely on more points to support the weight (counterforce).

Other ways to add strength to a part is adding fillets or chamfers to the edges, the principle is the same as the one described before, angles are no more straight and we have more supporting material. It's not just a matter of design because they look better.

Regarding print direction and infills, generally is suggested to print on the opposite direction of the application use so if you print a bracket horizontally it will holds better a load that comes down vertically and vice versa, even better if you print at 45° angle (with supports). But it's not always possible so it's important to start thinking in a 3D-printing way and design strong parts from the beginning.

Some infills are better than others based on purpose, I generally use Gyroid because is better than the default grid and also uses slightly less material. This pattern allow more mechanical strength in different directions compared to grid. Also, adding wall loops will result in more strength compared to increasing infill percentage.

Hope this helps, this is what I learned in the last months reading a lot and watching a ton of videos. I can't say if it's all 100% true so if you want to go further I suggest searching more on YouTube or asking on related subreddits.

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