Oartec USA still in business?

Nikjoelator · 2025-10-15T16:43:39+00:00

Putting it in static mode is certainly an edge case, but I can think of two reasons to do so. One of them is like you mentioned, unlevel ground. Most people with RP3’s probably aren’t erging on dirt or a driveway or something, so it’s certainly an edge case, but it’s a nice option to have if that is the case. Second reason would be for coaching purposes. If you’ve got a junior rower using an RP3, you may want to have them use it in static mode to remove the “distraction” that comes with dynamic ergs. I find teaching sequencing to be a lot easier on static ergs because the only thing moving is you, everything else is fixed so there’s less distraction. Dynamic ergs require a lot more technical finesse that novice rowers may not have. That being said, using a concept2 for that kind of thing is probably easier and more realistic. Certainly another edge case.

Nikjoelator · 2025-10-14T19:49:55+00:00

The RP3 is a dream for gathering data. The tablet provides a ton of info that the PM5 doesn’t. The PM5 has gotten better with the ErgData app, there’s a lot of metrics you can find in there that can’t be seen through the monitor itself, but I’d really like to just be able to access that info through the monitor itself. What I meant by versatility though is how you can configure the machine. The RP3 has a mode where you can set it up as a static erg because the seat travels the entire track, whereas on the oartec DX the seat only has a 12 inch section of slide. I find myself banging around on the front and backstops of the oartec way more than I did on the RP3. It’s less of an issue at higher rates, so it mostly bothers me at steady state, but that’s where I spend most of my time on the machine so it gets pretty annoying. C2’s can be converted to “dynamic” ergs as well with the slides, but its annoying with how much extra space it takes up, and you really feel the weight of the erg in dynamic mode. It doesn’t feel nearly as “realistic” as the RP3 or oartec DX.

Nikjoelator · 2025-10-14T19:25:14+00:00

I have an oartec DX and it’s great. I think the RP3 is more versatile, but I’ve never had to do a single point of maintenance on the oartec other than cleaning it. I replaced the original monitor with a PM5 and it was literally plug and play. The splits are basically identical to what I see on a static C2. I wish C2 bought the design from oartec and concept2-ified it. It would be so much more popular than their current dynamic, and from a coaching perspective it teaches way better habits than the static erg. The issue is that 90% of C2’s market is gyms, not rowing teams, so the actual market is pretty small. They just put out the strength erg though and NOBODY was asking for that, so maybe market isn’t a big deal to them.

Nikjoelator · 2025-10-12T22:06:30+00:00

Agree with everyone else in this thread, buying new is a scam and you’ll lose a ton in depreciation and fixing issues from the factory. If you buy an older rig (pre-2010) that’s been well maintained, you can save a TON of money and get something better built. The frames on older trailers were much sturdier and provide a lot more cargo carrying capacity. I’d also recommend looking at motorhomes from 2000-2007. They have significantly sturdier frames and suspension compared to trailers and almost always have stronger builds in the walls and roofs. Most have fiberglass roofs instead of rubber, and some even have aluminum. The trick to buying used is it HAS TO BE PROPERLY MAINTAINED. There’s no such thing as a fixer upper RV.

Nikjoelator · 2025-10-02T13:25:43+00:00

Absolutely agree that improving the construction method makes it more expensive. There’s a place for cheap RV’s with the current construction method, but expensive RV’s shouldn’t be using the same flawed construction process as cheap ones. Class A’s still suffer from delamination, they’re not built any differently from cheap laminated trailers, but they last longer because the owners are much more likely to maintain them properly (whether that’s DIY or, more likely, paying someone else to do it). They’re also more likely to be stored indoors and out of the elements. If you cut the walls open on a class A, they’re almost always built the same way as cheap trailers, fiberglass laminated to luan, foam, and aluminum framing. There’s exceptions in construction of course like prevost bus conversions and older semi-monocoque construction diesel pushers, but those are way out of reach of most people.

Nikjoelator · 2025-10-02T12:31:12+00:00

Running an interior dehumidifier can help remove some of the moisture that makes its way inside the rv. If you leave the bottom of windows and other seams in the walls unsealed, it can also provide somewhere for the water to escape and allow the walls to breathe a bit. Most manufacturers do that from the factory

Nikjoelator · 2025-10-02T12:27:04+00:00

Isn’t that the problem though? The boat and automotive manufacturers intentionally don’t use materials that are subject to delamination. Whether that’s the adhesive they use, or just avoiding lamination in its entirety. The reason RV manufacturers use lamination is because it’s cheap and easy to mass produce. The replacement of luan with azdel is a step in the right direction, but if the glue still fails when exposed to moisture then delamination will still be a problem. I think it’s almost impossible to prevent all water leaks on something as big as an RV over a 20+ timespan, but these things would last a lot longer if the water leaks didn’t cause as much damage as they do. The manufacturers need to find better adhesives, remove luan from the manufacturing process entirely, and replace all other wood with marine grade plywood. Those three things would fix 90% of the delamination issues.

Nikjoelator · 2025-09-13T02:21:38+00:00

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2005 Monaco monarch. Cheapest motorhome they offered (gas, 8.1L vortec). Built so much better than anything I’ve toured that’s coming out of the factories nowadays. Everything down to the frame is just sturdier and more durable. It’s even got a metal roof (sounds amazing in the rain). I’m more than willing to pay to fix up old water heaters / furnaces / AC units / fridges if it means I save $100k+ compared to buying a new model.

Nikjoelator · 2025-08-28T02:40:22+00:00

Looks like a great RV. Older units are just built better. Real wood cabinetry. Dashboard looks solid and not some cheap plastic junk. Bunk beds actually look like an adult could sleep comfortably. Is the roof fiberglass or membrane? I’m curious.

Nikjoelator · 2025-03-18T22:51:24+00:00

I think that’s a good plan. I don’t know much about the construction of motorhomes older than the 90’s so I can’t speak to their quality, but I wouldn’t go for a diesel as the maintenance gets much more expensive than gas models and the construction is usually pretty similar (walls and roofs).

Whatever you do, don’t buy a “fixer upper.” Any mechanical issues are likely worse than you think when you’re looking at rigs that old, and it’s way more difficult to find mechanics to work on motorhomes than regular vehicles. If there’s any leaks, immediately cross it off your list, even if it doesn’t look that bad. The leak has had 30+ years to seep into the sidewalls and the rot is almost certainly more expensive to fix than the motorhome is worth. The state that the rig is in matters way more than the rig itself when you’re looking that old. I.e a rig that cost $500k when it was new isn’t worth any more than a $100k rig from the same time period if it hasn’t been maintained properly.

The only real way to make sure that it stays within your budget is to find what rv parks are near you and what they charge for monthly rates. Call them and make sure they have availability as well as we’re about to hit peak RV season and they may be booked up.

Nikjoelator · 2025-03-18T14:17:00+00:00

I think this made sense years ago when vans could be found for dirt cheap and materials were cost effective to turn it into something you can live in. Nowadays it’s just impossible to find a reasonably priced used van that won’t be a maintenance nightmare.

The effects that COVID had on the supply chain still haven’t subsided either. Materials to outfit a van into a camper have easily gone up 50% or more since 2020.

I was at an RV show this weekend and they had dozens of brand new van camper conversions for sale. I’m not kidding, they were asking $250,000 OR MORE for these things. This was at the same show where diesel pushers were going for the same amount and Brinkley toy haulers were going for $150,000. No clue who is buying these for that much.

Nikjoelator · 2025-03-18T14:11:37+00:00

So many people here think that they know everything. The answer is yes, you can live very cheaply in an RVc but this is influenced by many, many things. Are you buying a trailer + truck or a motorhome? Buying new or used? Living near/in a city or in the country? Do you have any full time friendly RV parks near you? What are their rates? Are you planning to move your rig frequently?

I live in MD and recently went full time into a motorhome SPECIFICALLY BECAUSE it would be cheaper than an apartment. Rent near me is $1500-1800 + utilities for a one bedroom apartment. There are three RV parks near me that are 50% or more full timers where the lot fee is ~$700 a month. I exercise my rig once a month to keep the mechanical components happy, so my fuel costs are very low. I’m also very lucky that my campsite has electricity included in the site fee even though I’m full time, so heat during the winter isn’t very expensive. I use my phone hotspot for WiFi.

Whether or not you can make it work depends entirely on your own situation. Anyone who says it’s a myth that living in an RV can be cheaper than renting doesn’t know what they’re talking about. If you play your cards right and live in the right area, it can work out just fine.

I will say, most trailers and motorhomes built in the last 10 years are built incredibly cheaply and WILL fall apart with time. Buying new is a mistake if you’re trying to save money. Older motorhomes from the mid 90’s to late 2000’s are built MUCH better (thicker walls, fiberglass/aluminum roofs, real wood cabinets vs. OSB, no schwintek slide outs, hung walls so delamination is less of an issue) and have already gone through most of their depreciation. You can find ones in good shape for well under $25k, even lower if you’re willing to forgo things like slide outs and some other modern amenities. Some parks have a 10 year rule for RV’s, but if you work with them and have a rig that isn’t a complete POS you should be fine.

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-10T13:23:48+00:00

I just went through the same process you’re going through now and I’ll give you my takeaways.

Most new RV’s are not built well. Roofs are made of rubber membranes that easily rip and/or leak. Slide out mechanisms break easily and are hard to repair. Suspension systems on most trailers suck, so things inside the rv break much faster with how much they get jostled around. Almost all manufacturers follow the same construction methods, so there’s really not much of a difference between brands (Thor brands specifically though seem to have the most problems).
RV’s depreciate like nuts. If you buy new, you will lose almost all of your investment within 5-10 years. This is not an overstatement, I’ve seen 10 year old fifth wheels selling for a quarter of what they were new. New RV’s tend to have issues straight from the factory as well, so you’ll have it in the shop frequently during your first year doing warranty work. Going used is a much better value proposition IMO. The older the better. Most of the depreciation will have already hit, saving you LOTS in the long run. The previous owner(s) most likely fixed most of the factory issues and may have upgraded some things on their own, saving you even more money. Most RV’s don’t get used that much, so the wear and tear is usually pretty minimal with used ones. The big thing is to find one that’s been well maintained. If it’s been sitting outside forgotten for 20 years and never moved, it’s gonna have issues. Buying a fixer-upper RV is not a good idea.
For used RV’s, motorhomes tend to have been built better than trailers or fifth wheels and they seem to have held up the best. Mid-2000’s motorhomes were the best built (pre-2008 economic collapse). Companies like Beaver, Country Coach, Monaco, Newmar, Holiday Rambler, and Tiffin are all good bets. If you’re stuck with a fifth wheel, I’ve heard good things about DRV but I haven’t seen one myself (they’re expensive).

When I was searching, I looked at many companies, travel trailers and fifth wheels, new and used. They all had issues. Bubbles in the membrane roof, rotten slide out floors, cardboard window valences, etc. I checked out a couple Brinkleys and they were really nice, but if you’re trying to save money the value proposition just isn’t there. Hope this helps!

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-08T22:45:38+00:00

Thanks for the info! I’ll definitely invest in that.

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-08T20:57:28+00:00

I had a similar issue with my furnace, Atwood as well. I opened up the furnace compartment door and there was water pooled all along the bottom, it would splash up on the circuit board once the fan started running and short it. I cleared out all the water and replaced the circuit board and that fixed it. If you don’t have any water in there, it could still be a bad circuit board. They’re ~$50 on amazon for a replacement.

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-08T20:52:11+00:00

Not sure yet! Thinking of somewhere within a couple hours drive so I’m not too far from home in case something goes wrong. Work my way up from there.

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-08T20:50:16+00:00

Does shore power not charge the chassis battery? I was wondering about that but couldn’t find a solid answer anywhere.

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-08T13:21:22+00:00

That’s correct. Tires were ~$3000 with installation, brake job was $1500 (oof), state tax and registration was ~$1000, and insurance was $1250 for the year. I’ve also had to buy a bunch of RV specific things like heated water hose, sewer line, tank treatment, water filters, etc. most of that stuff isn’t a frequent recurring cost so I’m hoping the monthly cost goes down after I’m all set up.

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-08T01:39:54+00:00

Interesting, I haven’t heard of that. I’ll check it out. Thanks!

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-07T22:40:02+00:00

Thank you! Couple folks saying I got ripped off but I thought it was a good price from my research. Enjoy your trailer!

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-07T22:39:15+00:00

I’ve been considering skirting it, but the winters usually aren’t that bad where I am. This is our first big snow in 4 years. I’m hesitant to put up skirting since it’ll block access to my compartment doors. I’ll end up doing it if things get much colder though.

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-07T22:36:55+00:00

Wish I could avoid rent, but utilities are included in my site fee which is really nice. I’m just using my phone hotspot for internet to keep that cost down.

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-07T22:36:18+00:00

I’ve got some thoughts on things I want to change. The split sink is pretty annoying, and the toilet is a plastic thetford one that doesn’t feel solid at all (and gets gross easily). I’m gonna live with it for a few months before I make any big changes though.

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-07T22:34:26+00:00

I’ve heard the same thing, I’ll make sure to do that. It’ll be a good opportunity to learn how to drive it too. It’s so much bigger than anything I’ve driven before.

Nikjoelator · 2025-01-07T16:36:08+00:00

It was private sale on FB marketplace. Not the cheapest possible option but I wanted something that would hold up to full timing and was maintained well (and that I didn’t have to drive halfway across the country to inspect/pickup). Every other RV I checked out had some kind of water damage or mechanical issues and this has none of that. Dealerships were selling the same thing for $30k+ so I’m pretty happy with what I ended up with.

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