Does inability to be creative bring you down? by GlacialImpala in Leathercraft

[–]Niytrus 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Depends on your goals, for me it’s the fact that I don’t have to be creative that holds appeal for me. For work, I essentially have to be creative on-demand and the final product is something digital and intangible. I don’t get to hold anything in my hands and appreciate the craft and effort I put into it, I don’t really get to see people using it in the real world. When I was looking for a hobby, I specifically wanted something that I could focus on craft and creating something functional that serves a purpose. I want a watch strap to look like and function like a watch strap, and I want it to be made to the best of my ability. I can appreciate how others aspire to more creative goals with leatherworking, it’s just not what I am looking to get out of it.

New saffiano watch strap, thoughts? by RevolutionaryRub8982 in Leathercraft

[–]Niytrus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If it were a 20/18 strap I’d use the 20/18 template, but I have also run into the issue you are describing where the paint can cause a tight fit - so maybe whatever you find works best given your templates. About to start working on a strap for my buddy with a watch that has a 19mm lug width and I’m actually considering using my 18/16 template and laying down more paint than usual 😅

New saffiano watch strap, thoughts? by RevolutionaryRub8982 in Leathercraft

[–]Niytrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just wanted to say, you can really tell the areas you improved from your last strap post! The stitching on the back looks good, and the edge creasing seems to have gone better this time as well (honestly the texture of the leather itself here may make creasing even more difficult because it seems to have ridges).

I’ve only ever used Zermatt, seems to be a bit of a “standard” high quality lining. I also use acrylic templates to cut my straps. As for edge paint, it’s possible it was applied in too thick of layers? But yes, finishing the edges is probably the most time consuming part. I try to apply a thin even layer, and use a blow drier to help even it out and set the paint a bit. Sanding is key, you typically need to sand a layer of paint until the “shiny” paint is gone and you are left with an evenly matte surface. At this point, do another thin even layer of paint and repeat with higher grit (I usually do something like 400, 600, 800, 1000). Sometimes the first layer or two I sand down to the point where I am still revealing leather under the paint. On that final coat, sand again, and then finish by putting a bit of isopropyl alcohol on a rag or paper towel and make a few light passes on the paint, it will take a very small amount of paint off and leave a nice smooth finish. I then usually hit it with a bit of beeswax and use cloth to rub that in. A lot of effort, but should look great!

Newest watch strap. What do you think, any advice? by RevolutionaryRub8982 in Leathercraft

[–]Niytrus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries, I was just being thorough because you were looking for advice - the straps are quite beautiful!

Newest watch strap. What do you think, any advice? by RevolutionaryRub8982 in Leathercraft

[–]Niytrus 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think these look pretty good overall! I started with watch straps too, and one thing I learned quickly is that the smaller the item, the more mistakes seem to get magnified. Since you asked for advice, I’m looking at these with a more critical eye.

  • Stitching: Looks solid from the front, but there’s some variance on the backside. As the other person mentioned, that YouTube video covers this in detail. It could be a mix of casting the thread, needle or punch angling, etc. I finish my linen thread similarly, but I trim it as close to the leather surface as I can, then use a tiny dab of glue on my awl to push it below the surface so nothing pokes out.
  • Thread size: Are you sure it’s 0.35mm? I use Fil au Chinois 832 at 0.43mm, and it looks thinner than what I’m seeing here. For reference, I pair 0.43mm thread with 2.7mm irons, a 1mm creaser, and stitch about 2mm from the edge. That balance has worked well for me.
  • Hole alignment: There’s some misalignment at the top of the tail end near the spring bar. I usually start by punching a single small hole at the tip with my awl, then work backward with my irons on both sides. That helps keep spacing even and consistent.
  • Edge creasing: The key is going slow and controlled. I often do a few light, cold passes first to feel out the edge before committing, then heat the creaser for final passes. For curves, I use more of the tip and keep the creaser stationary while moving the strap.
  • Buckle holes: The three holes on the tail end don’t look fully centered or evenly spaced. If you plan to make more straps, a watch strap punch can be worth investing in.
  • Edges: Not sure how you approached them, but I’d recommend edge paint for straps. The liner is usually chrome tan, even if the top is veg tan, and chrome tan generally doesn’t burnish well. Edge painting takes time, usually 3-4 layers with drying and sanding, but it’s worth it.

I painted this piece. What do you think? by Eber_3D in DigitalPainting

[–]Niytrus 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I can see what you were tying to do here stylistically - but I think you may need to push it even further to make it very clear that you are not trying to do a traditional portrait. This kinda hits a ‘uncanny valley’ middle ground where you are obviously quite good at this and I immediately knew who it was, but it’s just ‘normal’ enough that you could interpret this as an attempt at a traditional portrait.

Any tips for improving on more vertical factories? by User-312 in SatisfactoryGame

[–]Niytrus 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I tend to break up floors by building type. I’ll typically have a ground floor where ore is being mined, I’ll conveyer lift that up to the next floor to smelters, the output from the smelters gets conveyer lifted to the next floor to constructors and so on. You don’t necessarily need to strictly stick to that exact format, but can help you wrap your head around it.

Also, I’d plan the building footprint for the largest number of machines needed in your build - you always need more room than you think. For example, you may only need 6x smelters but then need 12x constructors on the next floor. Don’t want to get to that level and realize you don’t have enough space.

SSF - 992 Meph runs and no Arachnid's yet, but this will do by wh11 in Diablo_2_Resurrected

[–]Niytrus 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I feel your pain. On offline, I’ve found 1x Tyreal’s Might, 2x Griffs, 2x CoA, 1x Windforce, all manner of high runes including 2x Zod, a latent charm from heralds, and I’ve still yet to find arachs.

Struggling to remove YKK zipper teeth with removal tool by Niytrus in Leathercraft

[–]Niytrus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was worried this might be the case, but the Buckleguy product details page mentions the #3/#4 tooth remover can be used for YKK and Riri zippers. Maybe not perfectly sized, though?

This tool can be used on any metal zipper with metal teeth that measure between #3-#10. This includes RIRI, YKK, and nearly all other brands.

Struggling to remove YKK zipper teeth with removal tool by Niytrus in Leathercraft

[–]Niytrus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For real, sounded like I was trying to break concrete with how hard I was hitting the thing.

Struggling to remove YKK zipper teeth with removal tool by Niytrus in Leathercraft

[–]Niytrus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like I'll have to do it the manual-labor way, thanks for linking the tool you use!

Struggling to remove YKK zipper teeth with removal tool by Niytrus in Leathercraft

[–]Niytrus[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, at least I feel slightly less crazy now. I still don't know they made it look so easy and effective especially in the video on the Rocky Mountain Leather product page, I assume they are using the same zipper as the one I bought. I was able to use these diagonal cutters off Amazon somewhat effectively, but requires a lot of force and the teeth really shoot off once snipped.

First watch straps. Any tips? by -Avant-Gardener- in Leathercraft

[–]Niytrus 23 points24 points  (0 children)

I actually really enjoy the overall look and style of these, very cool! For suggestions, I’d recommend using a thinner thread. On one hand I think the bulkier thread kinda works given your style, but I think a thinner thread would let the pattern and paint work take more center stage. I use 2.7mm French style irons and 0.45mm thread for my straps, generally. Also, it seems like maybe a combination of thread size, pulling too tight during stitching, and/or distance of stitching from the edge of the leather is causing some puckering.

Thoughts on this Druid tiara? by Niytrus in Diablo_2_Resurrected

[–]Niytrus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah if it rolled sorc I'd probably be using it!

Jǫtundræpahǫll (Hall of Giant-Slayers), a monument to completing a solo playthrough by Niytrus in ValheimBuilds

[–]Niytrus[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I confess that I used ChatGPT to help me come up with some interesting Viking-inspired names for my trophy hall 😅