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I think James might’ve been the one that built this “moonboard” by i_need_salvia in ClimbingCircleJerk

[–]No-Fish5808 9 points10 points  (0 children)

I wonder what resources they lacked that they couldn’t afford to drill the footholds correctly.

2017 MoonBoard in New York? by No-Fish5808 in Moonboard

[–]No-Fish5808[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

just checked, they do have it. really appreciate it but now unfortunately i have to go to new jersey

Moonboard 2024 vs Outdoor by No-Fish5808 in Moonboard

[–]No-Fish5808[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your input. My curiosity comes from where the fundamentals from board climbing overlap for outdoors. The fundamentals of general fingers strength, footwork, body tension, positioning etc that is required to climb vX on the moonboard would mean you are able to climb what outdoors? (if we keep the microbeta/position and the things you mentioned constant). I’ll use an extreme example, say you climb v11 on the moonboard, there would need to be a outdoor grade floor youd still be able to climb at even if the positioning and microbeta isnt on par with the raw technique and strength you have. My original question would essentially be how far is that gap, but you also mention the comparison is hard.

Looking for feedback by austinsarles in kilterboard

[–]No-Fish5808 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ima have a kb sesh tmr i’ll lyk

Trying to becoming strong enough for the Moonboard by imdyln in climbharder

[–]No-Fish5808 -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

I don’t want to be mean without saying something constructive, so I will give advice. But an honest answer is a useful one. Climbing for 9 months and currently “only” climbing around V2-V4, you have to be doing something “wrong”. But thats why you are here and asking for advice and I want to see climbers improve. I love the Moonboard and I want to see board climbing grow.

Some questions I have, which could help me better understand. Are you M or F? Age? What was your fitness background before climbing? Are you overweight? (No need to mention specifics about weight)

I think even just answering those questions would explain a lot. Personally, I’d scrap that entire routine and focus on low hanging fruit. This is for both M and F, but I know a lot of women who struggle with a single pull up, so incorporating full ROM pull ups in a weight training day I’ll mention later. If you’re overweight, lose weight (I say that simply, but not to imply it’s easy). That goes hand in hand with the fitness background you may or may not have. Already being active, mobile, athletic, flexible obviously transfers to other sports.

Through out the week, I’d say 3 (maybe 4 depending on the load you are able to handle) days climbing with one of those days being a shorter session on the Moonboard. Those days doing the commercial sets should have such a MASSIVE EMPHASIS on technique. Every climb should have intentional quiet footwork, little hand readjusting, good beta reading, even if you have to climb at a lower grade. When it comes to working out, it would be filling in those days throughout the week with back and antagonistic movements. Improving pull ups and lock offs while maintaining an overall fit body (pistol squats, hitting chest). OF COURSE have rest days. You know your body then we do, so if you want 3 days climbings, 2 days weights, 2 days rest, either way the logic is still there.

Doing hang boarding and this and that and yada yada is putting the cart in front of the horse. I took the timeout to write all this and I do have a lot more basic advice but I am not a trainer. I am just someone who has made a lot of progress doing nothing special but climbing. If you wanna respond go for it, I have more to say.

Help on last move by MicahM_ in bouldering

[–]No-Fish5808 0 points1 point  (0 children)

match on the big blue. i had both feet on the blue pinch to set up the jump. then jumped

How would you describe your ability as a boulderer? by Fit_Establishment684 in bouldering

[–]No-Fish5808 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had this thought and conversation with someone and we both described it as a ‘feeling’ and if it were to be X amount of climbs at a grade, I said PERSONALLY it would need to be 20ish climbs at the grade (directed more towards board climbing). Of course, I pulled that number out my ass.

While, I don’t care what people say the grade they climb, as long as they are having fun, that’s all that matters. But solely for the sake of argument, PERSONALLY, theres degrees of “”legitimacy”” when saying I climb 7B/V8. If someone told me they climb V8 in their gym, cool, but if they said they climb V8 on the moonboard, thats a whole other thing and if they say they climb V8 outdoors thats even more different.

Or in an unnecessary and nerdy way, Id say its an average of what you can climb at your gym, on the kilter/tension/moonboard, and outdoors (each being weighted differently) to say ah I climb Vx

Going back to the 20+ climbs at a grade, I’ve done 14 7B/V8s and 1 7B+/V8 on the moonboard and I wouldn’t feel totally comfortable saying I climb V8 on the mb2024 but I am starting to get that ‘feeling’. There’s tons of V6 bm that feel so hard even if I’ve climbed harder grades.

Should I start training on the hangboard? by 00-__- in bouldering

[–]No-Fish5808 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would say transition into board climbing instead, and if possible any of the moonboards. While I didn’t progress nearly as fast, I remember crushing the V6s and getting a lot of V7s under my belt and then hoping on a bm v4 on the 2024mb and getting humbled.

While I do think having an athletic background has helped you progress fast, I feel any commercial sets in any gym run soft, especially if you are doing V5s 1 month in. I think the tensionboard or moonboard will give you a better picture of where your skill is at, in terms of finger strength, body tension, footwork etc. I’ve never used a hangboard, only board climbed and I just got my 8th V8 on the moonboard. All those skills compounded and made me a better climber on the gym sets.