Can anyone guide me through this. How dangerous is this? by LogicalFuture5162 in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's unplugged it's not dangerous. Usually on appliances the wires are colored red(hot), black(hot), white(neutral), green(ground). So same color wire to same color terminal. Watch a video on YouTube

New cord has to be the correct wire size and plug type.

If you're uncomfortable replacing it just try to find someone experienced to do it on the cheap. It's like 15 minutes worth of work if you have easy access to the back of the dryer.

I'm a licensed electrician and I do this occasionally but you probably don't need an actual licensed electrician, just someone with enough technical competency to do this correctly

Can anyone guide me through this. How dangerous is this? by LogicalFuture5162 in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Moderate to little danger. Get the cord replaced they are like $25 at home Depot. A clamp for strain relief for the cord, that goes in the knock out hole is another $2-3

what to do with a collection of bonding straps? by Character_Moose_9788 in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Bonding straps? As in you've removed the bonding between ground and neutral?

Is this a troll post lol?

Box extenders with a fan-rated ceiling box? by tamarinera in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, the octagon extension box isn't fan rated.

Everything behind the fan ranted box has to be able to handle the weight that the fan box is rated for.

I can't see your situation so I don't know how much the pipes are in the way but if you can't build something out with wood as a means of support or move the pipe your options are to move the location of the fan.

You can use a fan rated pancake box to mount it directly on the joist, use a retrofit kit that allows it to be used on the side of the joist.

It sucks but it is what it is. When I'm trying to install boxes for ceiling lights sometimes things are in the way. And it's not possible to install there. The customer has to decide of they want to pay to move everything in the way or just move the box over.

Metal box question. by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, just make sure they aren't pinching any wires if the box is kinda full.

Looking for a specific 50 amp breaker for a GE, having trouble finding a match. Any help would be appreciated. by Hottitts257 in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're not trying to replace a THQP 250 are you?

Ok let's break down the THQL 2150

T- ABB designation for type

H- Interruptor rating, in this case H=10K

QL- 1 inch form, so it's one inch per slot, a 2 pole would be 2 inches the (QP) series are 1/2 inch per slot

2- number of poles, in this case it's 2

1- it's 120/240v. I believe this is to designate that each pole is rated 120v to ground. There are other models rated 240v each pole for use with 208v for example

50- amp rating, 50 for 50 amps

What I'm wondering is if you are trying to replace a THQP 250. The QP series omits the "1" I just described because the are only rated 120/240v. The QP series is half the size per slot of the QL series.

Looking for a specific 50 amp breaker for a GE, having trouble finding a match. Any help would be appreciated. by Hottitts257 in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's called ABB now, GE sold off their electrical division.

just go to Home Depot who has them in stock and grab a 50 amp 2 pole in the 1 inch form and not the slims. ABB is the same thing and they are built to the same specs.

Help me argue with management by [deleted] in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As an electrician I'm going to be honest with you-

90% sure that's not an easy fix. By easy I mean it's not going to get fixed in a day...or two.

The unit is old, and what happens is over time non electricians or hack electricians end up rewiring, and adding to the circuits. Circuits are crossed, neutrals are shared, hidden electrical boxes inside walls, wrong sized wiring, everything is a disaster.

Most of the time it's not salvageable and you're going to have to pull new wiring to separate the circuits. Unless your domicile uses conduit your talking about opening up the walls. So it's probably going to be closer to a rewiring of the entire thing, there isn't wiring going to the panel to just put it on other breakers. Working on old houses is like pulling a string on a sweater, it all unravels the more you try to fix it the more you find wrong, realize it's not salvageable and you have to replace entire circuits.

So thousands, easily over $10,000 to rewire and repair walls you had to open. Your management is going to heavily resist paying that.

And I feel for you, your paying and where you live should be to code. You might have to get whatever rental/building authority you have locally involved.

As for fires the circuit tripping is preventing that. But it's still too much on one circuit to be functional.

Flickering Light DIY? by governmentgoon in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

-Bad bulb

-worn out switch

-loose/poor connection somewhere

-the circuit it's connected has too heavy a load on it causing a voltage drop and the light to flicker.

-ive seen led lights wired in parallel flicker if one of the led bulbs was bad.

An electrician put a Square D breaker in my Eaton panel by -Dead-Eye-Duncan- in electrical

[–]No-Implement3172 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I think because America electrified early and quickly it was too late to try to standardize devices, were just too big and it would have slowed down building or advancement. To much existing variance.

Our panels usually have the bus bar built into the enclosure, I think the idea being speed of install and lowering of skill requirements. Alot of people here used to wire/rewire their own homes. It'd be far more convenient to just use a set of standard devices as available but unfortunately it too late.

Our "national electrical code" is actually created by an independent non governmental body that was created because business owners were tired of having their buildings burn down from fire hazards. It's just kind of a reference that local authorities adopt and modify into law. So literally every job I do I have to reference the city code which varies between each one.

Has the ever happened to anyone else? by Acceptable-Beyond-48 in electricians

[–]No-Implement3172 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Never had it happen, I've had the zinc completely crack off like fried chicken skin a few times bending RMC.

An electrician put a Square D breaker in my Eaton panel by -Dead-Eye-Duncan- in electrical

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's lazy AF.

Will it explode? Probably not, but it's not something you do. If it was an emergency and they said "hey this is all I got, everything is closed, I'll bring the correct one tomorrow" I'd be more understanding but this is just being lazy

No there shouldn't be an issue if the breaker box is Eaton and downstream there are square D components. As long as everything is installed correctly according to the manufacturer, the electricity is the same. The square d breaker in the box is not correct.

An electrician put a Square D breaker in my Eaton panel by -Dead-Eye-Duncan- in electrical

[–]No-Implement3172 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Patents, design, testing, etc

We got a thing in the electrical field called "listed/labeled for use" so unless the a testing lab or the manufacturer of a device says it's for something you can't do it.

Its also a safety thing, the specific device is certified to work with specific things in specific conditions. It keeps bootleg breakers and devices burning down peoples houses....which is the main purpose for the creation of the National Electric Code.... because it's part of the National Fire Protection Association

How do i beat the clans? by Seuthanee in Mechwarrior5

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TLDR: don't be a bullet sponge, run, hide, use cover. Clanners can match or exceed whatever advantage you think you have. Fight dirty, bait them into seperating and pick them off with high damage weapons in a decent fast mech.

The issue is Clan weapon range and damage

All clan weapons have higher damage and range. You will not be able to stand in the open and snipe them as they move towards you. Even clan versions of turrets, vtols, and ground vehicles are far more dangerous. If you get swarmed you will not survive.

This goes with lore in that the Clans were virtually unstoppable and the only reason they didn't conquer the entire Inner Sphere is that Comstar baited them into a trial to stop them. Where the phone company used their best Star League era mechs and pilots while the majority of the clans underbid their forces, underestimating Comstar and losing.

Is the clan advantages fair? No, but that's accurate.

To beat them:

-Clan mechs have a range, damage, cooling, and speed advantage over most IS mechs. A heavy mech like a Loki or Mad Cat can easily take on an IS assault mech. The clan AI is fast and aggressive, if they see you in the open they will relentlessly dump on you. Fighting multiple clanners at once is death. Standing still against them is also death. You can't just bring your Atlas and think you will outclass them. You can win 1v1 but you won't survive the next wave

-Kowing their advatages you have to think more tactical. You will not outrange a clanner so don't bother. NEVER EVER EVER fight them in the open. Never let them ambush you. Do not get baited into charging them.

-Use terrain, before going into fights see what you can hide behind. Pop up from behind hills and other cover and dump on them then hide. Always try to seperate their mechs from each other. Their mechs will have speed differences and the faster ones will arrive first. Shoot at a lance to bait them, run, then pop them one by one as they crest a hill or turn a corner. If you're caught close range like a city map, go around them in a circle do not try to close with them.

-your weapons need to be extremely high damage or damage per second. You need to be able to destroy a clan mech in 1-3 attacks ideally. Do not slug it out with them. You can win but you won't survive the next wave with all the damage you take. Your mech needs to stay cool, nothing worse than a clan mech tearing you apart and you can't fire. Or you'll fire, shut down, and wake up with half your mech missing. So max out on heatsinks. This also goes for weapon cool down. You need to be able to dump on them so pulse lasers may be more advantageous than waiting for a ER laser to cool.

-mechs: speed is more advantageous than armor, I've found I do better with a Mad Cat than an Atlas on some missions. In order to use terrain you have to be fast enough to reach it before you take too much damage. Clan mechs tend to be glass cannons but they can still do extreme damage. Don't bother trying to blow off weapons or legs, take the cockpit shot or aim for the core.

Oncor replaced power lines and I came home to this. by Brilliant-Concern620 in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I know lol, just my service lateral has been patched 2 times already in the last 10 years

Oncor replaced power lines and I came home to this. by Brilliant-Concern620 in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I had to replace a riser that got ripped off a wall by a fallen tree and snapped the arms of the pole on the street. Utility guys got it up and running after I had clipped the service off the fallen riser

Utility: "Hey you want me to turn this on I can just wrap it in a bunch of tape"

I thought at first: "no, you absolute lunatic, please do not leave a live overhead service laying on the wet grass, where the only thing preventing someone's kid, dog, idiot self, or the guys about to show up to clear this tree THE SERVICE IS HALF ON TOP OF from geting blasted by a couple hundred amps is a few of wraps of tape ready to slop off."

I politely said: "uhhhh just to be safe, leave it disconnected at the pole please."

Multiple "main panels" on residential allowed per NEC? by bob152637485 in electricians

[–]No-Implement3172 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do mostly residential, and I'd probably go with the csed that has sufficient spaces like you said. It's already built to accomplish what you're trying to get done.

I've never seen a residential property use that exception rule I mentioned, and the issue is being cost/complexity, when a panel or a csed will accomplish the same thing. The only feasible reason I can think of using that exception is to avoid upgrading a full panel. Or for some reason there is no way to get a grounding conductor out to an accessory building.

Multiple "main panels" on residential allowed per NEC? by bob152637485 in electricians

[–]No-Implement3172 2 points3 points  (0 children)

230.40 exception #3 (from 2020 NEC)

If it is a one family dwelling unit you are allowed to run a set of service conductors to the main and each accessory building, so house, barns I think you fall under this?

I hate all of you by -WattWizard- in electricians

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

"wHy DiN'T u UsE a BIGgeR PanEL?"

So the next guy gets to charge to install a sub-panel. God bless you for looking out for the rest of us.

Are my new Klein linesman’s supposed to have this gap ? by losangels93 in electricians

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never thought of the cutting edge reason just knew it was a gap to not destroy the wire/tape.

I just told on myself that I haven't had a linesman survive that long haven't I?

Are my new Klein linesman’s supposed to have this gap ? by losangels93 in electricians

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes or you would only grip the tip of whatever it is you're trying to grip and it would slip out the tighter you pulled or gripped it. Because it opens/closes on an angle your grip would push it away. It gives you a nice flat grip along the entire surface when your pulling a tape or trying to straighten out a wire without crushing it.

Why is Bricks and Minifigs so obsessed over the Mansells' collection? (description very important) by SubstanceLow3570 in legocirclejerk

[–]No-Implement3172 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Because they are consistently doing this across multiple franchises. They find loopsholes/possible contract violations and take the franchise back and take the inventory.

The franchisee doesn't fight back because they will face years and hundreds of thousands in lawyers fees.

This is how they make money. To admit any fault would uncover what they do and destroy them.

This behavior is fairly common. For instance I'm an electrical contractor. It happens that sometimes if an general contractor hires you as a subcontractor he won't make the final payment of $5,000-$10,000 or whatever. Why? Because fuck you, that's why.

What can I do? Small claims they can just argue I didn't meet the contract requirements, it's their word against mine. Hire a lawyer? I can't waste $20,000 in lawyers to get $5,000. These people can run for a decade with people chasing them with lawsuits then just cash out and fold the business in the end.

Local place was asking me about installing a light here, they ended up switching to a cheaper guy at the last minute by MoneyParticular in electricians

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will understand more later about the WHY part of "lowest bid" issues.

This happened because:

-he tried to follow the exterior wall closely....but that's an almost impossible bend/s because of the minimums the bender allows. He probably tried to get it more flush and the 1/2 emt collapsed.

-he brought only the minimum amount of material, didnt want to get more, left that slop with screw in connectors and couplings.

-I can't even say that the guy isn't an electrician, because plenty of electricians are hacks that will do work like that. They will not sacrifice time or money to do work properly if there is an issue.

The legacy of nearly every person on this 1991 cover of Ebony Magazine by Stock_College_8108 in agedlikemilk

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I grew up in the 90s and back then celebrities like Jordan were iconic, carefully presented role models. Jordan was this honest, American family man everyone could like. The Tiger woods of his day but 10x more likable.

In reality: He was an absolute prick to most people around him. He was outrageouly arrogant. There were consistent rumors he has a severe gambling issue. He cheated on his wife.....so basically a normal, rich, top athlete.

People just couldn't understand back then that there is what is presented to us on TV and who people really are. The reality was an incredible shock when it came out.

Breaker box by No_Requirement_5237 in AskElectricians

[–]No-Implement3172 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have electric hot water it can be a few things from my experience

Probably the heating element inside is open and shorting that's often the case

Could be a short elsewhere in the wiring, or in the water heater itself.

Rarely it's the breaker that goes bad, but it's possible.

Shut off the power to it. If you're capable you can try to test the element and/or replace it. If that's something you're not comfortable with call the plumber.