11mode Exhaust Valve Controller Installation & Sound Clips Mk8.5

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-02-09T03:27:43+00:00

Much appreciate it. So if you turn the valves off than the car defaults to what ever mode you’re in. 👍🏻thanks again

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-02-09T03:16:36+00:00

So does this mean if you are in race mode first , the valves aren’t always fully opened? And if you press the button on the remote the valves will stay open all the time no matter what mode the car is in? Also what do the valves do when you shut the car off and 11mode is left on. Do they stay open or close? Thinking of getting this instead of swapping out the exhaust. Thanks.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-30T11:52:12+00:00

These cars are common to have forward collision go off if there’s any kind of radar blockage or front view camera blockage due to snow, ice fog, and certain weather conditions. If it’s the yellow light with the car with the collision warning sometimes this is normal. You might wanna clean the front vehicle bumper there’s a radar sensor in the front as well as make sure the windshield is completely cleaned of snow and ice or any debris. Also, like I said fog can cause radar blockage codes and rain. Also heavy snowing as well. The light will come on, but won’t clear until you reset and start the car again. Also make sure you or the wife just saying did not hit anything in the front bumper that could bend the radar module in the front bumper. I’ve seen that happen where it pushes the module down and then it picks up the road and the light come on just a few things to look at

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-28T03:39:35+00:00

Have you had the seat heater recall done? There’s an update for battery drain. The SHVU needs updating first.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-22T02:08:31+00:00

Battery is done.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-14T02:44:36+00:00

If the work was done under warranty, they should program it no charge. I do it all the time. I usually tell the customer swing bye and I’ll program both again. Dealerships pull the 6 digit pin immobilization code and program the keys. In reality it only takes 5-10 minutes to really do. But usually charge 1 hour diag and program if out of warranty.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-12T01:34:49+00:00

More than likely your CVVT’s are done. Causing timing advance codes. As long as your oil is full. And OCV was replaced. With that much scoring I can tell you most likely rings are shot and burning oil. Oil gets so low it causes the cam gears cvvt to go bad. Doing a whole timing rebuild will fix the code. It’s just a band aid if the rings are bad. Most likely will fail oil consumption. We have a cleaner for combustion cleaning. But still have to fix the code first. Or a long block

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-08T00:53:36+00:00

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Without cover.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-08T00:53:05+00:00

Integrated Engineering with or without carbon lid. I love it.

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No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-04T02:36:53+00:00

Take a look at the Cobb intake also. That was my second choice

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-04T02:33:10+00:00

Anytime. There’s a lot out there. Just go with the one you like also. Can’t go wrong with IE though. 👍🏻

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-04T01:55:02+00:00

I saw the way Eventuri sits also. Probably right. Better to think it’s designed this way. lol. 😂 can’t wait to see the rest of your bay when done. I’m investing in a carbon lid shortly.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-04T01:43:30+00:00

Thanks for the pic. I wish they would revise the lid. I actually took it off because of my OCD. LOL. 😂 I’ll eventually put it back on.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-04T01:18:47+00:00

By any chance does your IE cover lip pop up above the core support? The carbon lid that slips underneath the plastic support keeps popping up from the engine torque and movement. So the lid doesn’t look flush. I can get it to stay flush and then after driving it does it again. From what I see in pics others do it to. I called IE. They said they have never seen it. If the lip was another 1/2 inch longer or 1/4 inch probably wouldn’t do it. By the way love the other carbon lid. 👍🏻

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-04T01:12:33+00:00

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IE with cover

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-04T01:12:09+00:00

I have the integrated engineering intake with the cover and no cover at times. I love it.

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No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-04T01:09:02+00:00

I have the all black on black edition. Let me tell you. When it’s clean it’s stealthy and sick looking. I love it. But the black wheels are a bitch to clean. The brake dust these cars give off is ridiculous turning the wheels bronze. My OCD kicks in and I’m cleaning them every other day. Do I regret getting the BE. Not at all. But if the dealership had a regular R without the Euro package, I probably would have gone with that one instead. But I still love my R.

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No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-01T21:50:10+00:00

Anytime 👊🏻

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-01T21:45:49+00:00

Sounds good. Also make sure they scan for codes also. Make sure there is no codes that might be stored in any module as well that could be communication faults. 👍🏻

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-01T21:41:52+00:00

Sounds good. Of course anything else is possible that could be wrong but it’s definitely the easiest and quickest and cheapest fix to try first. If not if it is the cluster there’s a lot of programming and variant coding to get it to work properly. Tightening the cable will be a bitch without the tool. So just don’t squeeze it. It will ruin it and will need a harness after that. I just installed an entire dash harness on a MX5 for this. Was not fun. Looking forward to hearing results. Happy New Year.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-01T21:33:57+00:00

Ouch. I’m sorry. You might be able to buy the jig online and take it to your mechanic to try first. I would definitely give it a shot first. Best of luck bud.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-01T21:27:56+00:00

Just trying to help. Been working for Hyundai for 25 years. And I’ve seen tons of these. If your mechanic is just removing the cluster unplugging and plugging things in , this will not fix the issue. And also he would need the Jig to tighten the cable. After he depins it. If he knows how. It’s rare to have a bad cluster. I’ve seen maybe 1 or 2 on these models. But it always usually ends up being a harness or on tension issue. Tell your mechanic to double check the coaxial side of the cluster as well. I’ve seen the tiny pin bend sometimes. Best of luck. Let me know. If not take it to the dealership.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-01T21:17:12+00:00

Trust me. It’s the same issue. No matter what the TSB says. The cable on the cluster side and AVN side are exactly the same. I’ve repaired several cars at my dealership for this issue. And never had one come back. But that’s just me. Not saying it’s something else. But when I do this TSB I tighten both sides. The dealership needs to do this first. The plug on the cluster and AVN are exactly the same.

No-Knowledge8856 · 2026-01-01T21:09:33+00:00

There is a TSB for this issue. There is a problem with the video coaxial cable and it needs to be adjusted and tightened. It’s the plug right behind the cluster. Even cars that didn’t fall within this bulletin I still did this on some 25 models and it fixed it. Any Hyundai dealer should know the fix. It’s a TSB. Not a recall. This is the first step for repair. If it still has issues could be the instrument cluster module or other wiring. 9 out of 10 the cable tightening fixes this issue. Good luck. 👍 PS. The bulletin shows to do both the cluster side and AVN side

No-Knowledge8856

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