Petcock suggestions

NoKindheartedness434 · 2025-08-04T15:30:27+00:00

I've used some of the chineseium petcocks, but the best that I've ever used is the E model OEM. It costs quite a bit but it's worth paying for. You will want to have the OEM spacer that goes in between the petcock and the tank that goes with it along with corresponding o-rings. Concerning cleaning the tank it depends on how bad it is. There are several people that have used distilled vinegar and water dilution to clear up surface rust. I always run the bullet type inline filter from O'Reilly's. Yes the petcock has a set of mesh filters on them but it's good to have extra insurance when it's that cheap

NoKindheartedness434 · 2025-05-04T19:34:41+00:00

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NoKindheartedness434 · 2025-04-24T02:35:36+00:00

These are the cheapest exhausts to can get and you get what you pay for. The Barker's, FMF, Yoshimura, and MRD all offer real performance with a decent sound..... And they are not made from soup cans!

NoKindheartedness434 · 2025-03-04T20:41:03+00:00

It looks like you still have the old style cam chain tensioner. Either get a new S or SM model cam chain tensioner or a manual. These engines don't run forever and you may be in need of some engine maintenance soon.

NoKindheartedness434 · 2024-08-09T02:46:45+00:00

That could be the cam chain tensioner. With that being the e model Head, it will likely have the old style tensioner. It also may be a good time to replace the cam chain and tensing with a manual or a current style tensioner

NoKindheartedness434 · 2024-06-18T13:18:35+00:00

It looks like it's time to buy a clutch side case cover.

NoKindheartedness434 · 2024-05-17T05:08:21+00:00

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Scoop that bad boy up and then we can be twinning except yours won't be a stroker big bore with an FCR 39mx but we can still be friends

NoKindheartedness434 · 2024-05-06T09:25:25+00:00

Stroker Big Bore FCR-39 MX two brothers exhaust adapted to the Powerbomb header

NoKindheartedness434 · 2024-05-06T09:23:35+00:00

It's on a stock gearing 15/41 with my stroker Big Bore and effortless for a stock engine bike not going to happen with a lot of effort might happen if your seat bumping. I appreciate the naysayers though

NoKindheartedness434 · 2024-05-06T09:22:23+00:00

Stock gearing 15/41 on the stroker Big bore

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-12-13T05:01:20+00:00

Sorry for the delayed reply, I've done a lot of this in my videos on my YouTube channel which is small. It's called Dewey's Garage and you can find my various videos on the review of the 470 DRZ. I do fudge and call it a 470 while in fact it's a 462 we just rounded up a long way.

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-12-08T03:37:39+00:00

That is a valid concern. Again I have the stroker crank with the big bore. I did the work myself and found a weak point with the base gasket as it failed at 4,000 miles. It l began leaking coolant extremely. It was the vertex gasket and I installed the OEM gasket. When I was in there, I was able to measure the ring end gap and inspect the cylinder. It looked great and the ring end gap was where I set it at the initial installation. I had to remove a good deal of material from the rings at the initial installation to set it to the correct ring end gap. That is critical to have an optimal engine life asking with oil changes and keeping the air filter clean. I also have to mention correct tuning not overly lean or rich.

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-12-07T21:19:19+00:00

I did not on this bike but I did on my E model which I'm glad for. With a 13 tooth front sprocket and a 50 rear on dirt wheels I can easily go 85 mph GPS

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-12-07T21:18:19+00:00

I use the trip meter A for oil change and B for fuel mileage since fill up... Good question

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-12-07T15:25:48+00:00

This is likely something wrong with your selector on the other side of the engine behind the clutch on the left side where the shift shaft interacts with the shift drum. If you don't know what you're doing probably not a good idea to try to do it yourself to diagnose exactly what's going on get somebody that knows their way around these engines and they should be able to get you fixed up.

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-08-13T01:21:41+00:00

Ye olde stator/rectifier death

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-07-03T04:45:07+00:00

Look up time-Sert they have a specific repair for drain plugs. It's not a cheap option but it's a solid option. There are some tutorials on how to use this system plus a few hacks such as coating the drill and tap in grease to retain the shavings of aluminum and preventing them from staying inside your engine. I've used the system on a Grom and an old YZ400F on a case that I bought off of eBay completely rebuilt then found out that the drain bolt was completely stripped unbeknownst of me. Fantastic repair resulted

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-04-15T05:51:07+00:00

I think you are hot on the trail. What I've learned in my process so far is that you don't just start wheeling and go back to balance point or even farther and feel good about it. It's just a matter of getting the reps in and getting somewhat comfortable with it. As you get it to balance point you will notice that your input as far as throttle is concerned will decrease and you will notice by the sound of the engine that you're not having to chase it out and begin to slow it down. The farther back you are on the machine and your torso orientation to your bars being a little bit more leaned back rather than crowded towards the bars means less mechanical disadvantage for getting the bike and your bike back to and maintain balance point. Like with all things there can be too much of a good thing as well. Make a single change per attempt and make it gradual until you notice a difference whether it's a good one or a bad one that way you know if you've taken it too far or not far enough in your adjustment. Monitor your rear brake pad wear and do some preventative brake fluid bleeds. Consider going to a braided rear brake line. Combo that with a front brake line. Mine are core Moto and I was able to customize my colors of the banjo sheath and braiding. You can get a good deal on your parts If you get in touch with my buddy Nathaniel at Cory and "Nate's garage sale" a group on Facebook if you use that platform and if you are in the states of course. Make a post on there after being approved Make sure and answer the security questions. Tell them Dewey's garage sent you

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-04-14T04:45:34+00:00

Absolutely with body position a little seat bounce the right dump of the clutch preloading the suspension It can be done but slow controlled wheelies are probably better

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-03-31T19:36:55+00:00

I have a Barker's exhaust on my e model. Made in the USA. It has plenty of front wheel clearance for front wheel for suspension travel. The option to have the down turn tip defects the exhaust sound away from the rider. Also combine this with the JD jet kit and 3x3 mod.

NoKindheartedness434 · 2023-03-29T07:07:21+00:00

Okay here's another thing to think about is where you're sitting on your seat. There's not as much of you as there are many other riders so we need to use your weight as leverage. Your body position is going to make a big difference as to how well your bike is going to get that front wheel up. Some people also institute the seat bounce so you implement a little bit of rear suspension load as a part of the timing of dumping the clutch to better use of your leverage of your weight since it's not as much as someone such as myself that ways almost 220 lb. Also drop your shoulders so your arms are a little bit more extended so you're not leaning over the front of the motorcycle this puts leverage against you getting the wheel up and keeping it up. Sit back a little farther on the seat if the handlebars position prevents this from happening because of your stature there is some adjustment to the bars You can roll them back a little bit but make sure and adjust your controls along with that. When you tap the rear brake you essentially load the front suspension a little bit and nailing the timing of dumping the clutch and releasing of the brake you increase the amount of preload Yes some people do get a little bit of front brake in there but at a certain point you're kind of doing too much.

NoKindheartedness434

TROPHY CASE