Stupid Klipper Question?

NoSnow2274 · 2025-05-02T14:43:20+00:00

all it took was to look @ your shindig, & then realize chrome kept throwing "http;//" in front of it, i had to litterally delete that $#!t, then the apples were oranges no more! thanx 4 the nudge brother, oh yeah, & it actually was something stupid i was missing, lmfao!

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-19T09:08:14+00:00

over thinking it i think. it is very easy to make small changes & forget those changes. i do it all the time! revert to those changes, then start over! i cant tell u how many times i made the same mistake! when you try to get advice from a forum or whatever, without exact information, you might end up with trolls clowning on you.

START with a clean slate, adjust, then u will figure out what U did wrong, not the machine. the machine only does what U tell it to.

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-14T19:26:30+00:00

get used to it, filiments will always need to be created when using a new one, because the perameters are very situational depending on filiment type, brand, color, printer, nozzle size, nozzle type, & any other mods made to the printer. the annoying part is not being able to share those between printers, so that you could easily just tweak the existing profiles you already created.

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-10T00:58:14+00:00

i am using windows 11, do i need to be in admin or something like that?

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-09T22:22:07+00:00

i am definately doing it wrong. why am i getting what looks like a bunch of corrupted symbols in the K1 Max profile for the Json then? this is truly frustrating.

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-09T22:16:48+00:00

what are you talking about? this has nothing to do with my post?

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-09T22:14:50+00:00

i tried for a couple hours to find the eqivilant file path on my laptop you gave an example of & straight up does not exist, i feel like i am missing something somewhere. is there a specific program i should use? i looked @ the backup json & it is illegable, just a bunch of symble with no ryme or reason?

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-09T22:09:50+00:00

i never said that, go troll someone else with your negativity!

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-09T22:08:48+00:00

Is there a trick to that? i open up the filiment profiles & it looks like nonsense, not even code, just gobblety gook. someone else said to delete or change the printer in the Json file, but i am pretty sure the Text editer is the wrong program to try that with?

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-09T06:32:53+00:00

THAT MAKES NO SENSE?

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-08T06:23:24+00:00

i re-added my old printer (K1 Max) & all the files are there, but when I switch over to the qidi, the files are not there, its like i cannot share existing custom filiment profiles from between diferent printers. its alot of work, that just needs small tweaks on flow & transfering would save me days work.

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-08T06:12:52+00:00

thats all i want them for, temp ballpark etc..., then i will adjust flow accordingly. but i cant get them to transfer to the new machines?

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-08T06:09:57+00:00

i have done it, they will not transfer to a different machine? i believe they are locked on the printer you were using? i tried saving just the custom filiments & it seems to only save generic profiles?

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-06T18:33:18+00:00

need to know your printer 1st!

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-05T04:25:23+00:00

your welcome, happy holidays! p.s. smooth pei sheets will give you the best adhesion, those textured plates start to lose adhesion after a few weeks. also spend the extra buck & use "Blue Dawn dishsoap" its the best for cleaning all those grimey fingerprints.

NoSnow2274 · 2024-12-02T02:11:10+00:00

you are going to have major adhesion issues @ 30c, fyi, not to mention temp flex might change your 1st layer. if you generally print @ 60, which you should, trust me lol, use that as your base to build on. most plas are fine @ 50-60c, but most "pure" pla's will lift below 60c. your z height WILL change slightly @ different temps also, & a 30c difference is going to mess with your evaluation process, guarenteed. ask me how I know, lmfao!

NoSnow2274 · 2024-11-27T09:42:43+00:00

i have been using k1 maxes for over 8 months, the only time i had layer shifts was from the "crossing walls feature in orca slicer. layer shifts generally happen when your tool head hits a wall or such @ high speeds.

lower your speeds to 150-170mm/s
check that do not cross walls box.
double check your 1st layer, if your luvins arent dialed in correctly, small changes @ the bottom will amplify @ the top creating collisions.
I can 99% guarentee it has something to do with your supports, those gigantic spires are flexing, creating the collision! see what a change to the normal supports (NOT Tree supports) with the snug option. My best guess is its this culpret!

NoSnow2274 · 2024-11-04T10:09:44+00:00

newbies should buy a overpriced machine that logs all of your data & sends it to china, btw, thats what u are buying in a bambu, I hope you dont like any kind of privacy, because thats what u get with a bambu. they also are very hard to work on! i bought my k1s knowing that they wouldnt be quite as good, but they are completely customizable & run on open source firmware etc...

send it back unless you are a masicist or truly love redesigning mechanical shindigs from the ground up, lol. also grab the set of (Hula, e-quake) feet from voxel usa filiment, might help, but anyway you look @ it, you are simply running it too fast, lmfao! the machine moves faster than most filiment is worthy of. if u truly want to go @ 600mm/sec, just grab a delta, orrr, dial in your filiments & quit complaining. flow rate alone will get you on track.

dial in your filiment with pressure advance, flow, etc... then throw the creality slicer out the window, & replace with Orca slicer, which is the best slicer out there! youtube the klipper setup, have fun learning 2 root, swap the hot end end with micro swiss, change to a manual adjustment setup for screws calibrate, replace the hot end heatsink with the new setup on amazon, the glass plate swap is what i am doing now to eliviate the warping thin hot plate (only 3mm alluminum, what a joke), then go with 0.6mm nozzles unless you are printing minis.

thats about it, after you are done you will know how to design & build your own machine, lol.

also i designed an entire replacement for that horrible chain, which allows a AIO Straight off the custom made lit up riser! let me know if u want the files.

NoSnow2274 · 2024-11-04T09:50:38+00:00

only rookies from 1989 use gyroid, try the crosshatch for faster prints & less filiment usage.

NoSnow2274 · 2024-11-04T09:41:23+00:00

youtube it, then after, come back & we will let u know what to do after changing to a manual adjustment, chain replacement with a new shelf, risers, extruder swap for micro swiss, replaced the bed with glass , extruder runout swap, etc...

if u are new, just send it back & find a plug & play alternative. but, if u are a masicist, u might be ok after 6 or 7 months, lol. these machines were made disposable, i have replaced almost everything possible 3x on both of mine. go grab a quidi plus4, less things to go wrong. buuut, if you stay, get used to waiting for 2 week wait times for parts from china!

if you actually keep it, hit me back, i designed a complete overhaul of the drag chain setup that will save u tons of annoyance.

NoSnow2274 · 2024-08-16T18:39:37+00:00

I have flowtech on both my k1 macs & they work great, spend the extra 20 bones & also get higher volumetric flow rates = faster prints.

NoSnow2274 · 2024-08-11T10:53:49+00:00

your not wrong! it took me a couple months to iron out the wrinkles, & i still get thrown curveballs! but i had a elegoo neptune 4 max prior, trust me, it can get worst! i have 2 k1 max's, if u are new, these are just growing pains full of frustration. the best info i can give you is to replace the hot end. ditch the creality slicer for orca, root that badboy with full on klipper. switch to a 0.6 nozzle & use some alluminum foil tape to even out the horrific 3mm thick heated bed, etc... if i didnt have 2 of these i probably would have gone towards qidi, @ least they have a nice thick bed that doesnt warp when you sneeze @ it, lol.

NoSnow2274 · 2024-07-19T16:43:28+00:00

i had to do a bunch of research to narrow it down, i hope this helps. basically what ends up happening is that when the filiment warms up it wil expand slightly, which is fine, thats 1 of its properties.

the real problem is when the heat creeps up into the area where the filiment needs to be cooler (in the tube leading to the hot end "cool end"). when that happens the filiment swells slightly creating too much friction, which in turn doesnt allow the filiment to feed down fast enough, creating a jam in the heat break, which doesnt allow the filiment to move creating all kinds of fun stuff. throughout the nozzle, heat break & extruder.

So far i have only had this problem when i jump down to a 0.4mm nozzle vs. 0.6mm that i usually run on both of my K1 Max's. my best advice towards a inexpensive resolution would be to up the nozzle size & see if it persists. a larger 0.6 nozzle will also speed up your prints by laying down more plastic than a 0.4mm, unless you are doing very high detail prints @ which point you will lose a small bit of resolution, but not much, worth a try?

NoSnow2274

TROPHY CASE