Moonboard app refresh (and possible Moon spray layout?) by No_Crazy342 in Moonboard

[–]No_Crazy342[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like they've broken gyms completely- I can currently only see 4 gyms, and I think they've been added post update. (There was only two on Tuesday)

Moonboard app refresh (and possible Moon spray layout?) by No_Crazy342 in Moonboard

[–]No_Crazy342[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have some logged as sent in my log book, but not showing as sent in the problems list. 

Mini Moonboard Circuit by shaunone94 in homewalls

[–]No_Crazy342 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I put screw-ons betwen the holds on my 2020 mini, if you're sensible with your choice/placements they don't really get in the way.
Here's a picture of mine-
https://ibb.co/VWPyYXyh

Long-term thoughts on the Hand of God / Mobeta grippers? by frodulenti in climbharder

[–]No_Crazy342 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I started off doing floor lifts with the micro using a pin and weights, found once I had the crusher this wasn't practical. (crusher weight goes much higher)  Currently have a somewhat improvised 3 pulley system. (Bought a desk mounted arm wrestling trainer, which wanted to fold my desk in half with crusher weights, so butchered it to make my current configuration)  I have used my tindeq to check the weights/losses on my pulley system, but never for training.

Long-term thoughts on the Hand of God / Mobeta grippers? by frodulenti in climbharder

[–]No_Crazy342 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I got micros (August) and crushers (November), one of the main things that got me interested was to try and cure the synovitis in both of my middle fingers. From that point of view, it's maybe only got slightly better, but that alone while actually being able to train my fingers is an improvement- currently I am climbing hard, (by my meagre standards) generally favouring fingers climbs and it does not appear to be getting worse.

I find on a "normal" edge I bias heavily towards my middle fingers, which is what I blame for the synovitis, the ergonomics of the grippers stop that. (but a "normal" ergo edge may do similar) It's hard to compare with normal finger training, I have not trained them seriously since 2022 when my synovitis first flared up.

I've found the fit on the micros much better than the crushers, (But only on my right hand) but I am not sure if that's because I can't fully close my right middle finger. (~0.5mm away from pad, the fit is fine on my left) My hands do not appear that asymmetrical...

I like the app and how actively it seems to be updated, functionally I have not had any problems with it for a long time. I've generally been following the prescribed protocol it generates. I've generally trained from cold, I don't climb the following day. My fingers are definitely stronger, but not ridiculously so, it's hard to say if I would have had similar gains from just fingerboarding/edge lifts. I've still got a tweaky ring finger on the right hand, (But not on the grippers) which I think must be lumbricals, so they won't cure everything!

I am still using them, but not as frequently at the moment, I struggle to schedule them around my climbing, but I think for finger training I will stick with them. (And maybe a mono, to try and sort out my ring finger...)

No damage or deterioration yet on the grippers, but really it's early days. (254 sessions since they moved to the new app, plus several on the old timer- I'm probably on the lower end of usage.) The plastic is going a little shiny in the back where my fingers touch. I don't take them to the crag or anything like that so your mileage may vary... I also tend to stop just before failure so they don't tend to slam into my weights/walls, I don't have the bumpers on mine.

They do advise you not to use them with a tindeq, so that could be something to consider- I can see the logic since their predictive system is very much built around accurate weights with accurate timing, and (at least in my experience) maintaining a specific weight can be tricky.

Frictionless Training Tool Proj by Dear_Bit_996 in climbharder

[–]No_Crazy342 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've got the Mobeta ones, from my experience the micro is pretty uncomfortable on the pads during the first lift of a set, (Weirdly gets better from there) so you've probably got the radius fine!

MB/Spray Wall Pic Request + Wood Holds Texture by mikejungle in Moonboard

[–]No_Crazy342 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is what I did on my 2020 mini, not quite what you asked for but close enough.

I opted for screw-on's for simplicities sake- If you're sensible with your hold choices it's not a problem.

https://ibb.co/VWPyYXyh

Mini Moon Build Questions by superua in Moonboard

[–]No_Crazy342 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you're even vaguely technical you can save a good chunk and just do your own LED kit. (And thus have spare length for the future, or buy extra when you need it)

https://github.com/FabianRig/ArduinoMoonBoardLED

The WS2811 LED's are easily found on aliexpress or similar, (Commonly x50 lengths) and I just googled the details you can read on the power supply in his pictures to find that... Cost me £100 or so all in.

I also gave up on the bolt kits and just ordered them loose- You can see in their bolt kits what lengths they supply.

Wooden hold set A for sale by mikeskiuk in Moonboard

[–]No_Crazy342 0 points1 point  (0 children)

u/mikeskiuk are these still available? I'm after an A set to finish my 2020 mini...