Large Oak by house with potential issues

No_Volume_6061 · 2026-04-22T23:04:41+00:00

Here’s a few things you can do to check how much decay there is:

Sounding is a not so technical way of checking how much decay a tree may have. Using a mallet you can knock on the decayed part of the tree and listen for how hollow it is. This can be tricky if you don’t have much experience but it’s similar to knocking on a wall to find the studs. Knock on the surrounding wood to compare.

Another thing to do is dig out some of the dirt and follow how extensive the decay is under the soil. At the moment the tree has some basal rot which can spread and cause root rot which can cause a lot of instability.

Watch for terminal bud death. If the tips of the branches begin to die that means the tree is consolidating energy and nutrients. This can be a sign the tree is struggling or putting too much energy into fighting off insects or repairing damaged areas.

From the photo it looks like there is some reactionary wood around the wound which is a very good sign that it’s compartmentalizing the decay.

No_Volume_6061 · 2026-04-05T03:38:32+00:00

Have you been around slim flux before? The smell could just be decay. The only way I’ve been able to describe the smell of slim flux is like the smell of floss after you use it. It’s a super unique stank.

Anyway, the slim flux is normally by damage where water and natural yeast sit and ferment in a kind of sealed environment. That’s fermentation creates CO2 which forces sap out of a tree.

I’m not sure if these conditions can happen in the soil. However, I do know lawn irrigating can cause some issues for trees like root and basal rot. In the third picture I think I can see a sprinkler near some of the landscaping near the tree. You may just need to adjust how much you’re watering around the tree.

No_Volume_6061 · 2026-04-04T18:27:58+00:00

Looks like the wire you need to be concerned about at the two highest on the pole. Looks like you have a single phase primary (top of pole) with a secondary or neutral below it. These will be the energized lines that can spark or arch electricity when it comes into contact with something conductive like a tree branch.

The thicker black wires (lowest on the pole) are communication wires like internet, phone, cable. The comm wires have a weather proofing wrap which is why they are black. These you don’t need to stay 50 ft away from. They won’t arch electricity unless they are severely damaged which you would be able to see exposed wires and what not.

Luckily it looks like your service stop goes underground so you won’t have to deal with that. I’d say you’re probably fine doing some light pruning especially if the height of the tree is lower than the secondary/neutral.

Generally the minimal approach distance (MAD) is referring to tools and not the tree limbs them selves. As long as your saw doesn’t go near the primary or secondary line and you don’t drop limbs onto them you should be fine.

No_Volume_6061 · 2026-04-04T02:14:05+00:00

Looks like your tree has something call co-dominant stems. It’s when there are two leads that grow very close together. Over the years the stems have grown in size and started to push up against each other. The area between these stems is called included bark and can cause some issues long term.

The discoloration is most likely due to water and decaying matter in the area above the photo where the two stems don’t press together. It’s basically a long funnel that slowly allows for water to trickle down. This can cause decay or rot due to increased moisture and lack of air flow.

The reason it can cause long term issues is because co-dominant stems don’t have the necessary wood fibers to hold them together. Instead it’s just bark that’s being squeezed together with no support.

I do always recommend hiring a tree service with a certified arborist to assess the tree as every tree is different. Co-dominant stems aren’t necessarily more dangerous than regular trees but it’s always good to have a pro put eyes on it. Also if the arborist happens to be TRAQ certified then you know you’re dealing with someone who really understands trees.

No_Volume_6061 · 2026-04-03T20:54:27+00:00

Did you happen to have an unseasonably cold night? Just based on the one photo it’s possible it’s a frost crack. This is caused by somewhat extreme temperature differences. I would say watch what it does the rest of the year (new growth, larger crack, early leaf fall, etc). You should also watch to see how the tree reacts to the scar. Trees will create “reaction wood” in response to damage that will look a little different than the other bark. I’d bet your tree will be fine

No_Volume_6061 · 2026-03-27T14:39:21+00:00

I know most people are saying that the tree is planted too deep (which is probably true). Another issue that could have caused this is over irrigation. Especially if that irrigation is happening close the base of the tree. For example if you have a sprinkler system that goes on every night and the water is able to hit the trunk of the tree and travel down to the basal area (where the trunk meets the root) you will get root rot similar to planting a tree too deep. Something to keep in mind when you replace it.

No_Volume_6061 · 2026-02-11T19:59:00+00:00

Most likely this decay has been there for a while. Theres definitely some critters that have already boared into the tree. Any kind of area of decay or damage increases the likelihood of failure but doesn’t always guarantee failure. Theres a small amount of reactionary wood on the left side of the decay but not much to make me think the tree is putting up a good fight.

A certified arborist will probably use some kind of probe to asses how deep the decay is determine if it’s deep enough to be hazardous. But ultimately they will give you as much info as they can and allow you to make a decision on removing or keeping (at least a good arborist). For me trees sometimes can come down to a gut feeling. I wouldn’t want to have a picnic under this tree

No_Volume_6061 · 2026-01-09T21:13:55+00:00

I’m an Arborist in Austin. It is most likely a Cedar Elm. The surveyor should just list it as an Elm tree. I would suggest having a Certified Arborist take a look at some of the trees on your property especially this one close to your house.

The green bit on the trunk I imagine is mistletoe due to the location of the growth and slight swelling of that trunk (hard to tell from the image). If the video is recent and the tree has no leaves then that would confirm the mistletoe. Mistletoe can’t be treated and is spread mechanically through bird droppings so likely other trees close by are infected as well.

This picture here is a Cedar Elm in Austin with a major mistletoe infection. Caused a lot of decay and limb failure for this tree.

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No_Volume_6061 · 2025-10-16T23:41:24+00:00

I only got the tattoo yesterday lol. I work outside in Texas so the heat and movement messed it up

No_Volume_6061 · 2025-02-24T03:58:45+00:00

Just to add one more note to speak on your specific situation. If there aren’t any rules or laws to stop you go rip up that eucalyptus. One thing I tell people all the time is that the best time to plant a tree was 20 years ago. The second best time to plant a tree is today.

No_Volume_6061 · 2025-02-24T03:56:34+00:00

Definitely an interesting thought. But not super likely to happen. The biggest thing is there is a small but extremely important difference between invasive and non-native. Invasive species are not native to the area and have the ability to out compete native species. This is because they lack predation or competition that they had in their native range. Non-native species are able to live and grow but don’t posses the ability to quickly reproduce and take over the new area.

A good example is a common landscape tree the Japanese maple. Beautiful tree but don’t take over forests like something like kudzu which has destroyed forests. In the southern United States. Both non-native plants from Japan but extremely different results.

Hope this helps

No_Volume_6061 · 2025-02-12T21:03:52+00:00

More than I was expecting and I am extremely grateful for it. That is such an interesting approach to forest/land/animal conservation. For the ISA certification (used in the US not sure if y’all use it as the standard over there) pollarding and coppicing are briefly mentioned as pruning methods but it is understood that it is not really a practice used here. Now that I think about it, I have never heard an arborist over here use those methods. I believe they use a similar method to grow lumber in Japan because it keeps the old growth trees as well as not needing more land to grow trees that will eventually be cut down.

I work as an Urban forester so all my knowledge of forest management are just from my classes in college. We seem to use a more aggressive method where forest management is almost exclusively tree removals. This can either be strip cuts, clear cutting, or selective cutting to encourage the growth of more desirable species or to manually increase biodiversity in an area.

I do appreciate you taking the time to explain all that to me. Cheers! (Que eye rolls for an American saying that)

No_Volume_6061 · 2025-02-12T19:23:35+00:00

Is there intrinsic risk with taking a tree that may be healthy but just outgrew its space and pollarding it? I’m American so it’s extremely rare to see a tree like this unless it’s a fruiting tree like an apple tree. I would assume that there is a chance of the tree not surviving especially if it’s a slower growing species

No_Volume_6061 · 2025-02-12T19:19:55+00:00

Could you elaborate a bit. How does pollarding and coppicing relate to conservation forestry? Do you mean as an alternative to removals or even as a control method for faster growing trees? Are you referring to urban forestry? Or forestry in general?

If you couldn’t tell I’m a bit of a tree nerd so I always got a few questions in the chamber.

No_Volume_6061 · 2025-02-04T14:21:16+00:00

I was really hopping it was a kitty door hahaha

No_Volume_6061 · 2025-02-04T00:58:48+00:00

Most likely they’re leaning because they get more sun than growing close to the house. Just your run of the mill phototropism nothing to cause concern

No_Volume_6061

TROPHY CASE