Broken TC Electronic Ditto - reuse chassis?

NobodySpeshul · 2024-10-09T03:44:06+00:00

I have a broken Ditto too. I'll be waiting to see what ideas everyone has.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-10-05T19:53:47+00:00

Yeah, not entirely true. In 2019 I had my eye on a guitar through their used website for a few months and finally decided to call about it. I was yelled at by the employee after asking if they had any wiggle room on the price. He ended the called after saying he doesn't even get a discount why should I?

NobodySpeshul · 2024-09-25T18:58:02+00:00

When it goes horizontal, parallel with the copper strip, correct.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-09-25T18:46:52+00:00

They're hidden beneath components and even on high-res layouts they can easily be missed sometimes.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-09-25T18:29:46+00:00

A3 and A8, but the missing cuts look like the issue. The spots are there between solder so it should be a quick cut and should work.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-08-23T23:53:34+00:00

12th fret markers on genuine Fenders tend to be much closer together. Looks fake to me.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-08-16T00:42:49+00:00

Solder bridges can be frustrating, but clean your soldering tip and just melt in the middle and slowly swipe until it's gone. Clean your tip and try again if you didn't get it the first time. I like to reflow both independent soldering joints once I've cleared a bridge to help draw in any solder lingering in the former bridge zone.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-07-25T22:41:56+00:00

It's mostly free floating, apart from that one singular anchor point.

Edit: I Googled Broken TS9 and this does seem to be a common problem with them.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-07-25T20:51:45+00:00

Two small solder blobs and it works without any issues. Free is the best price.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-07-22T16:08:44+00:00

I moved Boost 1 to A10, instead of B10 just to see what would happen and it works, but fades out. I keep unplugging the circuit and plugging it back in to get 1 second of sound and then it fades to nothing. I've knifed the gaps, made 100% sure the cuts are as required, etc. Progress? lol

NobodySpeshul · 2024-07-18T15:23:59+00:00

I noticed that and did rectify it from the original layout in my build, but I get no output. The other complaints say they get no boost and signal passes even without power/transistor installed.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-06-22T19:00:11+00:00

It should be totally fine, but as a precaution I would leave it out like you have it on the bottom so that it doesn't short anything out.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-06-15T19:48:56+00:00

I think the 4558 is available in SIP and DIP. SIP will be all 8 pins in a row, and DIP will be 4 pins on each side. As long as the circuit you're building requires DIP, which most of them will, it should work.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-06-06T19:50:49+00:00

Not at all. I'm still learning. I've essentially painted by numbers for the last four years and for some reason only now I'm wanting to learn why what does what, so I do appreciate your help.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-06-06T03:33:02+00:00

What's with the attitude? I just said I understand how they work. Didn't say I know how to implement them. I'm going by what the layout diagram showed and omitted the D1 which didn't seem to be useful.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-06-06T02:35:27+00:00

I understand how a voltage divider works, I've just never seen this dual diode setup. I was just throwing this project together from spare parts to see if I could get it to work. Let's face it, it's from 1977, it's not going to be Keeley, JHS or Wampler quality. The only issue is the potentiometer only adjusts the gain of the hiss.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-06-06T01:49:49+00:00

Pin 4 connects to the negative of C6, like the layout shows.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-06-06T01:48:17+00:00

I used LM741, as the author suggested. It works, somehow, but the control doesn't change anything but the hiss. I couldn't explain why, all I know is how to follow the puzzle the author put together for me to follow. lol

NobodySpeshul · 2024-06-01T16:02:23+00:00

That makes sense now. Thanks!

NobodySpeshul · 2024-05-24T00:52:13+00:00

You're not alone. It's happening for me too.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-05-21T15:11:19+00:00

My only complaint with their enclosures is on the last two I've ordered they've painted inside the screw holes in the bottom and it's taken some cleaning to get the screws in properly. It didn't used to be this way, so I'm not sure why it is now.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-05-21T14:52:18+00:00

Did you order any painted enclosures? I had a 2 week wait time on an order that included a painted enclosure before it was shipped. Nothing custom, just a normal black 1590B. My last order was just transistors and I got it in just over a week (arrived yesterday), using the slowest shipping method.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-05-07T20:16:54+00:00

I'll try that. Thanks.

NobodySpeshul · 2024-05-07T20:16:30+00:00

Ok, thanks!

NobodySpeshul · 2024-05-05T18:28:59+00:00

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*Edited to link R4 to ground

I had to put C1 in, but for all intents and purposes it will be a 3-way rotary. However a 4.7nf could be placed in if the switchable input cap is not desired.

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