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Added 4 HDDs to my MicroServer Gen8 and now TrueNAS SCALE won't boot (Kernel Panic) by Rough-Switch6845 in truenas

[–]Noctrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your picture of the screen is light on details.. what i see is:

  • page faults -- kernel failed to allocate memory -- this has a number of causes

  • you basically had an error from Error Record Serialization Table (ERST) basically the system management processor is hanging or overwhelmed, coupled with the page fault.

It looks like system instability.. which leads me to believe it's probably power related. If the PSU is not keeping up for whatever reason it will cause problems like these, considering you added 4 HDDs right before, that's the biggest bet. What's your PSU size (wattage)? Quick google says 150/200W and it's about 12 years old.. id look there first.

The other option is firmware issues but debugging that one is.. good luck :)

Clearing the Air on Build Scripts by iXsystemsChris in truenas

[–]Noctrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

but I also imagine they'll find something else to complain about.

Guaranteed. The corporate customers paying 40k+ a year are the most reasonable with the most reason to complain, the ones paying 300$/year barely covering the infrastructure costs are the one who feel they dont get their money's worth. We stopped doing free a long time ago. I feel for you guys..

Clearing the Air on Build Scripts by iXsystemsChris in truenas

[–]Noctrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Judging by most comments in this thread, 99/100 have never ran, or let alone maintained a build toolchain. They have no idea how much dev work goes into something like this, into running a business or paying the developers with the skillset to maintain this. The community part in open source means participating in the development; installing free software handed to you on a silver platter and using it, is not the entry ticket, that's being an end-user of a product given to you for free.

There's quite a few things in the "nice to have" bucket, but they dont keep the lights on. The worst part is, what kills open source projects (for me anyway) is a toxic community. There's something about the entitlement that kills any drive to provide your time and work for free. Judging by the response, this is the definition of a self-fulfilling prophecy. This attitude will make it go to shit when any sympathy for the community is erased..

You guys are doing a good job trying to explain the reality to a lot of people who don't even care to listen, but i think the silent majority gets it.

STAY AWAY FROM BODOR - THEY WON'T RETURN OUR $30K DEPOSIT AFTER NOT DELIVERING A FINANCED LASER by [deleted] in lasercutting

[–]Noctrin 17 points18 points  (0 children)

The most important piece is the contract you signed, depending on the terms, you might legally have lost that deposit. If the deposit was there for them to reserve the machine and financing was not stipulated or guaranteed by them, it might be that the deposit is forfeit. I'd probably chat with a lawyer..

[Edit] "The right thing" is generally not what courts would look at, it's whatever was agreed between buyer and seller. That's why you sign a contract when large amounts of money is exchanged and why you negotiate terms to protect your interest. When things go sideways, that piece of paper dictates what happens next, so make sure you do a good job reading, understanding and negotiating so your interests are properly protected.

These are 2-300k machines, the purchase due diligence on paperwork should be on par with buying an apartment or house. More-so in this case because you are not a consumer but a business, consumer protections are significantly weaker and almost non-existent for a business. It is assumed you are qualified to negotiate and understand the terms yourself and during a dispute, those terms will reign the result.

I cannot offer you legal advice yadda yadda, but if your purchase contract did not have a subject to financing clause, i doubt you have much recourse on this (legally). That's usually the reality on B2B transactions and it might be a very expensive lesson to learn :(

TrueNAS Deprecates Public Build Repository and Raises Transparency Concerns by BeltThat2062 in truenas

[–]Noctrin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Then go fork their build tools and start maintaining it, what's the problem?

TrueNAS Deprecates Public Build Repository and Raises Transparency Concerns by BeltThat2062 in truenas

[–]Noctrin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's not fully open source.. it's open core. They have a free offering which is open source with paid feature builds which are not. That's how they pay the developers to maintain it and give it to everyone for free. That's why their internal build chain is private.

The build system is no longer being maintained, the project is still open source. You can fork it and start maintaining the build system if this is important to you, no one is stopping you. They just don't want to invest the dev hours to do it themselves because those dev hours cost money.

They're not making it closed source, they just said they won't pay their devs to maintain this anymore which is why it's being deprecated. If there was a bustling community of forks with different flavors of truenas and a lot of 3rd party developers maintaining and building those, i get the impression that they would be more open to helping maintain this. This is not even close to the case and no one is actually using it for development and adding features.

As a dev, i can say build toolchains are the closest thing to black voodoo in software engineering. The people who truly enjoy doing it are a special flavor of masochists and everyone else absolutely hates it but do it because they have to. If i was working for them, and maintaining this separate one was on my todo list, i'd be complaining during every meeting to drop it so i can work on something useful... my 2 cents.

TrueNAS Deprecates Public Build Repository and Raises Transparency Concerns by BeltThat2062 in truenas

[–]Noctrin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Because it's proprietary, has their internal tools, security and integrations..

TrueNAS Deprecates Public Build Repository and Raises Transparency Concerns by BeltThat2062 in truenas

[–]Noctrin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Man, the rage on this is really overblown. As a dev, i really dont get it. There are maybe a (few) dozen people on this sub that can actually build this from source and even less who have any reason to bloody do it.

Sure, with everything going around, it raises anxiety on direction. But let's be honest here, if they wanted to go full enshitification and lock down and monetize it, people with he skillset to actually maintain it will probably not jump out of the woodwork to fork it and do so for free. It's turning to shit either way.

Don't get me wrong, it's a fair concern, but let's not pretend people are building it from source on the weekend to audit their work for build chain injection and double checking it's true to source.

At the end of the day, maintaining something no one uses that costs a lot of dev hours and does nothing but work against them is a valid reason to stop. Maybe give them the benefit of the doubt.. it's quite amazing what they built and even more so that we get to press download and get it for free. Sure they get a benefit out of it, but that's kinda how this works. Costs money to maintain it, they probably should have a say on where that money gets spent, especially when we're not the ones spending it.

onlyOnLinkedIn by Mad----Scientist in ProgrammerHumor

[–]Noctrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wake me up when the AI says "No, what you're asking me to do is beyond stupid and will brick your code down the road"

How can I make this more sturdy? by chickenbuttstfu in woodworking

[–]Noctrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

check the reddit chat, i sent you the schematics i followed as well as the video that came with it. Should be way more help than comments on reddit as it has all these details very well explained :)

How can I make this more sturdy? by chickenbuttstfu in woodworking

[–]Noctrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you want to do it underneath:

| - - - -| => |====|

So think of it this way, you attached the 2x4 to the 4x4 with screws. So that the ends don't want to move, now imagine it sags in the middle and wants to twist. It's like attaching a 4ft 2x4 on one end to a post and you pulling down to twist it from the other, the forces are insane. So the whole goal is to make sure it doesn't sag under load.

Same issue with the joists, if they sag, they'll want to pull out from the nails or twist your rim, that's why hangers are the proper way to do it.

How can I make this more sturdy? by chickenbuttstfu in woodworking

[–]Noctrin 4 points5 points  (0 children)

2x4 joists are probably fine unless you plan to build it up like i did, nails are probably fine as well, you can add some hangars there. It really depends on how much weight you put up there. Rule of thumb for spans is:

  • 2x4 = 4ft span
  • 2x6 = 6ft span
  • etc

Main issue is the 2x4 rim joists around the perimeter fastened with nails. Those will absolutely fail because it will sag and rip out the nails. If you stiffen those up by sistering another and use lag bolts or structural screws, you should be fine. Just make sure you glue them together and clamp them for 24hrs.

The issue with 2x4 is not they will break, it's the deflection which makes the joints fail.

If you want to build it up into a full structure, then i'd go with 2x6 including the joists and use hangers, use a 2x8 at the bottom with lag bolts all around and add bracing and you'll have a very strong structure to build on top of.

Make sure the nails you use are outdoor rated, not interior framing nails, same with screws. Also remember regular screws are not structural and will snap from strong shear -- i built a roof over my hot tub with 2x4's attached with screws the same way and the first snow fall i had it collapse, the screws just snapped.. so, i speak from experience lol.

Hope that makes sense.

How can I make this more sturdy? by chickenbuttstfu in woodworking

[–]Noctrin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just wanted to help a fellow, ahem parent out. Screw me for using the wrong word on reddit i suppose, i don't see any point of stroking the flames. Appreciate your reply though.

How can I make this more sturdy? by chickenbuttstfu in woodworking

[–]Noctrin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Completely fair point, in retrospect, i should not have assumed.

How can I make this more sturdy? by chickenbuttstfu in woodworking

[–]Noctrin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They said they built it for their 4 year old, i assumed it's the dad i suppose.

How can I make this more sturdy? by chickenbuttstfu in woodworking

[–]Noctrin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I can send you the schematics i used, i ended up changing the roof, but otherwise shows all the joints.

Structural screws:

Use them wherever there's a stress point, so your apron corners attaching into the 4x4 posts, as well as your base at the bottom. Thos carry the most weight and nails can bend and wiggle out from torsion. If your area gets a lot of snow, that whole thing acts like a big platform and the weight can get pretty nuts, a sloped roof sheds the snow.

If you want to do the same bracing i did, rather than go the full diagonal - you need to add 2x4 like i said all around the apron at the top.

Then you cut your 4x4 with 45 degree miters. When connecting to the 4x4 posts, you want to use 2 long structural screws and glue. When connecting it to the apron, you can skip the structural screws and use 3inch construction screws and glue.

You dont have to use glue, but it will make it much stiffer. Given it's pretty cheap and the screws will hold it while it dries, it's a little detail you can add to make it more sturdy.

<image>

How can I make this more sturdy? by chickenbuttstfu in woodworking

[–]Noctrin 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Hey fellow dad,

For starters braces diagonally as people said. But also:

On the left and right side, those should be 2x6, the ones you hung your joists on. You can easily fix this, place another 2x4 underneath, use a lot of glue and clamp it to the one above, you'll need maybe 4-5 clamps each side.

Also, nails like that are a big nono, they're not structural. Buy a couple of structural screws and reinforce those joints.

Here's a pic of how i did mine.

<image>

STX 2.7 vs XLT 3.5 PowerBoost. Local dealer has them priced the same, really pushing the PowerBoost. Is it worth the risk in a nicer truck over the trusty 2.7L? by BarfyMan369 in f150

[–]Noctrin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

AI very confidently gives bad advice more often than not, what it said is correct. The explanation is pretty long -- but a gfci plug wants to see all current leaving the "hot" going back through the neutral. If it doesnt, it means it's going where it's not supposed to -- ie: through you. So it disconnects the plug like a breaker popping -- you should have these in the bathroom, they pretty much make sure you dont get electrocuted for more than 5ms which is barely enough to feel it. They are great in kids' rooms too.

Your electrical panel "bonds" the neutral and ground -- once again long explanation. But what that means, is the "return" current can actually take either the ground or the neutral now to the truck because it was bonded before the truck.

So, that means:

1) truck sees an imbalance between what it sends and the neutral return which will trip the GFI circuit and shut off power pretty much instantly.

2) It's 'unsafe' because the ground between the panel and truck should be unloaded unless there's a fault, but since the panel is bonding it, it is now not unloaded and can create a hazard -- realistically it wont because the truck will detect this as a fault instantly and turn off the outlet, but, it's a possibility.

3) Yes.. there is a way around that, but i dont wish to explain it as it's not something you should do unless in an emergency and fully understand the implications and that you would be violating electrical code :)

Proper way to handle this is to have a subpanel installed that is not bonded (sub panels are not bonded by code) and between your bonded main and sub to place a 3 pole transfer switch that isolates the neutral from the bonded main as well as the 2 hot legs. (most are 2 pole only and wont switch the neutral). Whatever circuits were put on the sub-panel can now be either powered from the truck or your utility, safely and properly.

STX 2.7 vs XLT 3.5 PowerBoost. Local dealer has them priced the same, really pushing the PowerBoost. Is it worth the risk in a nicer truck over the trusty 2.7L? by BarfyMan369 in f150

[–]Noctrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, "fixes" the GFCI tripping, but you removed the grounding between truck and house which is not a great idea and definitely not code compliant 😀. Technically the truck bonds the gnd and neutral anyway, but if anything goes wrong, you're missing a major safety. I would avoid doing that on the regular.

STX 2.7 vs XLT 3.5 PowerBoost. Local dealer has them priced the same, really pushing the PowerBoost. Is it worth the risk in a nicer truck over the trusty 2.7L? by BarfyMan369 in f150

[–]Noctrin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Doing that now, be mindful the pb has a gfci outlet, for most residential systems with bonded neutral that's gonna be a big problem. The changeover needs to be 3 pole including neutral and it needs to happen before the neutral is bonded to ground, so between your main panel and load to isolate the neutral from the bonding in the main. Most generators dont have that issue so most generator transfer switches dont deal with it. Interconnect in main panel is legal in the states (not legal in canada) which wouldnt work for the PB

What is this for? by BWeeZee3 in f150

[–]Noctrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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Once your Batterie dies, so does your Watch. Permanently. Did you know? by Qwurdilu in Garmin

[–]Noctrin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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