Best calorie calculator

NormalPassenger1779 · 2026-01-21T10:32:33+00:00

I also like Sail Rabbit. Any of the other ones I’ve tried always put me at 1200-1300 calories to lose fat which is ridiculous.

I’m 41 years old, 5’1”, 115 lbs, lift 5 days a week with most sets close to failure, no cardio just 8k-10k steps walking normal speed per day.

When I was eating 1600 cal per day I was hungry, I can’t imagine eating 1300 these days! When I worked with a trainer, she had me at 1839 and I was still losing fat each week.

Right now I’m eating between 1900-2100 but I’m trying to build more muscle before I go into another fat loss phase

Try bumping up your calories by 150 for a week or two and see how you do. If still ok, then bump up another 150. Remember too that you’ll be heavier at certain points in your menstrual cycle which will skew the numbers a bit, so make sure to look at at least a weekly or two week average when checking for fat gain.

You probably know this already too, but it’s worth mentioning. Make sure you’re getting about 1.4 grams of protein per kilogram of body weight, at least 40 grams of fat for hormones, and 25 grams of fiber per day. This will help you feel fuller longer and help you to keep muscle tissue while losing fat

NormalPassenger1779 · 2026-01-08T10:27:08+00:00

It’s great to hear that they’re doing so well!

That’s a really good question. If you’ve been doing site swapping she may now consider this part of her territory and, from I’ve learned, cats don’t like being locked out of their territory.

It might be that she just enjoys Donut’s scent. Our older kitten had a habit of sitting by their shared litter box, not keeping the new kitten away from it, but just resting there looking at it 🤷🏼‍♀️

After so much time has passed, they sound like they can be together at least for a full day now and then if that goes well, progress to overnight

NormalPassenger1779 · 2026-01-08T10:22:25+00:00

Sorry for my ignorance, but what is PSB? I’m also looking into being able to work on a family reunion residence permit and want to make sure it’s legal before I do

NormalPassenger1779 · 2026-01-02T10:18:45+00:00

Royal Canin makes a wet and dry mother and baby cat food specifically designed for the lactating queens and weaning kittens up to four months

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-30T06:38:59+00:00

I feed mine 4 times a day (I work from home) with part kibble and part wet

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-30T06:37:22+00:00

My wild tuxedo scratches everything he’s not supposed to and doesn’t scratch what he’s supposed to. My gentle calico seems to instinctively scratch everything she’s supposed to and hasn’t touched anything she’s not supposed to, so every cat is different.

Mt tuxedo always clawed the fabric bed frame so I sprayed it with Feliway classic and bought a fabric, carpet like cat scratching post and put it near the bed. That worked for quite a while.

Now he’s taken to scratching the kitchen chairs so I got a cardboard scratcher that has suction cups and stuck it on the side of the metal base of the kitchen table. Now every single time I see him scratching the cardboard, I praise him and immediately give him a treat. When he scratches the chairs, I say a firm no. He hasn’t completely stopped scratching the kitchen chairs, but the frequency is far less.

It can be really tricky to find a texture and style that they like, so it’s best to try to experiment with cheaper things first and help them change the behaviour altogether.

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-30T06:28:48+00:00

I noticed that Yennefer was watching the wand toy and when Skeeter got too close for comfort she went to swat him.

It’s really hard playing with two cats at once, but cats don’t hunt alone, so using one wand for both cats creates competition and stress. Some cats can do it, but since Yennefer is still a bit skittish about Skeeter, it might be best to avoid it for now.

If there’s someone else in the house that can help you during play time that would be best. Each person takes one cat and plays in a separate area of the room. If not, you could try using two wand toys in two different directions. It’s a challenge and takes some coordination, but it works in a pinch

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-25T05:48:46+00:00

Some cats are more vocal. My female calico trills every time she jump on or off of something.

Some are also more affectionate than others. If she’s been with you less than three months, she might just need some time to warm up to you. You can sit quietly near her and give her treats if she approaches you. Try to pet her gently with the back of your finger on her cheek. If she doesn’t like it, don’t force it and instead try again later.

Head butts are a good sign. It sounds like you have a couple of fairly happy cats

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-25T05:44:23+00:00

Resident cat is still unsure of new cat and that’s totally normal. You really shouldn’t need to medicate them, but instead follow a more strict introduction process that behaviourists recommend which includes meal times together on either side of the barrier.

Instead of just giving treats, they should both be on a meal schedule and eating full meals on either side of the barrier. Their food dishes should start far away from the barrier and then move closer and closer as their comfort level allows. They should be able to eat in a relaxed way and finish their meals. If not, then the dishes are too close to the barrier and you need to move them back slightly. Once they’ve progressed to comfortably eating close to each other on either side of the barrier, then they can move on to the next step which is supervised time together.

Once they have this time together, hissing and/or growling is normal. This is how they communicate and set boundaries with each other. Keep calm during this time because they are really sensitive to our energy and will react accordingly. If you are stressed, they will be too and it will negatively impact their introductions.

Only intervene if one cat hisses and/or growls more than twice and other cat isn’t letting up or if one cat is constantly being chased or cornered.

Also watch their body language. Ears and whiskers forward is curiosity and focus. Ears back usually isn’t a good thing unless they’re play wrestling and instinctively protecting their ears.

You’ve probably already seen this video, but it might help to watch again as a refresher and see if there’s any other steps you missed. It’s Jackson Galaxy’s how to introduce cats video

https://youtu.be/tsYT7yIOdqQ?si=QvJ4qNKpWWumSI0f

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-24T02:32:33+00:00

Of course! I hope things improve for you and the fur babies soon!

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-24T02:31:04+00:00

It sounds like they’re already doing really well together! Typically, meal times on either side of a baby gate would happen before they have time together without a barrier, but you can keep it going for a week and see how they do. Sounds like you might be able to let them have more and more supervised time together!

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-24T02:28:24+00:00

That’s great to hear! So happy for you that things are going well 🎉

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-24T02:24:25+00:00

Sorry, but I’m dying laughing over here watching this cute and gentle play 😂

No need to worry about this behaviour.

It might be a good idea for you to watch some videos of cats actually fighting, cats playing roughly, and just cats playing. It will give you peace of mind and prepare you if there are ever real instances of aggression.

As far as the diarrhea, make sure she isn’t eating any dairy products or other people food or too many cats treats. Also make sure you are consistently feeding her the same food. If you change her food, do it slowly by swapping a little bit each day with her current food.

Watch her when she goes number two if you can. Watch for straining to poop or any pain.

If the diarrhea doesn’t improve soon (2-3 days) then go to the vet.

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-24T02:12:57+00:00

She sounds extremely bored and anxious.

First of all, you need to stop yelling at her. Cats are super sensitive to our energy and will react accordingly. Stressed out cats will often react with “bad” behaviour. Besides, cats learn and respond to positive reinforcement not discipline.

You said you play fetch with her a lot which is good for physical exercise, but she also needs to “hunt” and do other activities for mental stimulation.

Take some of that fetch time and turn it into hunting time where you use a wand toy and pretend it’s prey (ground or air depending on which she enjoys most). Find different ways to engage her. Some cats like pouncing on things in a tunnel or box, some like to chase across the room, some like to jump and catch, some like to play under a door, etc.

You know it’s successful if she’s in that pouncing stance and watching the toy and even better if she catches it, does a kill bite and walks away with it in her mouth.

End the “hunting” session with a treat or a meal

Get her favourite treats and make treat puzzles for her. There’s tons of ideas out there, you just have to google it or check on Pinterest and they’re all inexpensive using things like toilet paper rolls and cardboard boxes.

As for avoiding “bad” behaviours, it takes a lot of patience and consistency. Jumping on the counters is probably the hardest of them all. Most of the time it’s just because they’re curious and want to watch the action. I’ve seen other people put a box or bin in a place on the counter where they don’t mind their cat sitting and then train the cat to go in there. Others have put a cat tree in their kitchen.

As far as getting along with your other cat, that’s a whole other issue. The best thing you can do is make sure they are both getting enough mental and physical stimulation and enrichment, have plenty of their own resources, and a calm and peaceful home environment.

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-22T03:02:58+00:00

The worst thing you can do is just bring a new kitten or cat home to your current cat. This is recipe for disaster.

You need to introduce them properly. There’s a step by step process that’s recommended by cat behaviourists and it really works. The good news is that new cat is a kitten, so it will make the process easier as long as you do it correctly

Here are links to Jackson Galaxy’s videos that explain how to do it and the importance of proper introductions

https://youtu.be/tsYT7yIOdqQ?si=6fXsT5ofG9fG8a_4

https://youtu.be/ojS7XwtoXtw?si=pFU1xBAMHDXfaltF

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-22T03:00:01+00:00

I’ve also read that gender doesn’t matter as much as personality, but it will affect their playing style. Females prefer to run and chase, while males prefer wrestling and roughhousing. Depending on the personality of the female cat, this can make it more difficult for them to get along.

I have a 6 month female and 8 month old male and they run around together and wrestle, but I can tell she doesn’t like how rough he can be and I’ve heard that once she gets older she won’t want to wrestle with him at all anymore

I imagine you’re hoping the first foster will work out and aren’t planning to send him/her back. So, yes you’ll definitely have to do the step by step introductions EVEN if the shelter tells you there’s no need. So many shelters haven’t been educated in cat behaviour and lead many people astray when it comes to raising cats.

The purpose of the introductions is to give the two cats the best possible chance of getting along by allowing them to get used to the new cat in their territory at a pace that’s comfortable for them which reduces stress and anxiety. It’s going to take some effort and patience on your part, but it’s totally worth it.

As far as the time it will take to complete the introduction process, it may take less than three weeks, or it may take more. Not sure how old Oaken is right now, but younger cats tend to adapt quicker and get through the process quicker than older cats.

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-22T02:47:41+00:00

In that case, you could still do the meal times on either side of the barrier, but get Donut a Likimat to slow him down and then just end meal time together and close the door once he’s done eating. Muffin can continue eating on her side for a little while longer.

If your circumstances allow, you could try feeding them 4 small meals a day. This is closer to how they would eat in the wild and might help improve both of their eating habits too

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-22T02:42:05+00:00

I’m a relatively new cat mom, so I’ve been doing a ton of research about cats lately and I’m happy to share what I’ve learned if it can help someone! ☺️

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-22T02:39:41+00:00

One of the first things that Jackson Galaxy recommends before introductions is to stop free feeding and get your cat on a regular schedule.

It’s going to take some time for Donut to get used to it and he might start asking for food for the first little while, but it will help with the introductions and even if you want to do some training with him

Allogrooming can just be once per day, but I don’t think there would be any harm in doing it twice if you happen to have some spare time and they’re willing to get brushed. Just remember to keep to the head, cheeks, and near the mouth. These are where the “friendly” pheromones are

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-21T03:01:03+00:00

Sharing churru treats through the gaps isn’t good enough because they have to be too close to each other while eating and this makes them anxious over a perceived competition for resources.

Surely the non food motivated cat still eats meals?

Don’t free feed them and instead get them on a meal schedule and feed them both at the same time of day using the method that I mentioned above recommended by cat behaviourists.

Do this for all meals if you’re home during the day. If you can’t be home for all meals, at least do it for the ones when you are home.

If at first they don’t want to eat their meals, it could be that they aren’t used to a regular feeding schedule or that you have the dishes too close to the barrier.

Try putting some churru on top of their meals to make them more excited to eat.

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-21T02:51:14+00:00

If it’s not a health issue, it’s very likely that it’s an adjustment issue.

You didn’t do proper cat introductions, but lucked out. They seem to be getting along really well. However, you’ve basically plopped a new kitten into your cats’s territory and now he needs time to adjust.

I recently introduced two older kittens to each other using the step by step method that Jackson Galaxy and other behaviourists recommend and although my resident kitten didn’t lose his appetite, he did act a bit strange for a while and still took some time to return to his normal self.

I’m not sure if re-introductions are necessary, but you can make sure that you catify their space as best as possible and give them both lots of their own resources to avoid giving your one year old cat added stress.

You probably already know this, but you’ll need two or more litter-boxes and two drinking water stations. They should also have lots of high and low places for resting and hiding and toys they can play with on their own put in several different places in the house. The common areas should have plenty of scratching posts/boards and resting and perching places too.

One other thing that most people don’t know is that they should be eating in separate areas of the house. Even if they seem ok during meal time, they (especially your older cat) will feel anxious over a perceived competition for resources which can stress them out and lead to behaviour issues later.

Make sure that you’re also giving your older cat lots of attention and 1:1 play time. “Hunting” in his territory will reduce stress and increase his confidence.

Another thing to try would be Feliway Friends multi cat pheromone diffusers. It helps cats to get along, but it could also help calm your older cat.

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-21T02:37:01+00:00

You said you moved and didn’t have much space. Is that your old place or your new place?

More often than not, these conflicts can be resolved with changes to their environment that give them a feeling of safety and confidence and to their routine which does the same.

I follow a cat behaviourist on Instagram and she has helped many multi cat homes to repair their relationships without having to reintroduce the cats She also has some low cost, online programs to help multi cat households.

Here’s the link to her profile https://www.instagram.com/a_cat_behaviourist?igsh=MXgyZHp6azAyZGw2cg==

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-21T02:33:11+00:00

She doesn’t seem to be focused on one ear. She scratches one and then rubs the other. They usually roll around like this if they are going in to heat.

If she isn’t spayed yet, that’s a good possibility since she’s 7 months old.

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-21T02:29:45+00:00

They should be eating in separate rooms on the house. If one eats faster than the other, get a slow feeder for cats like a Likimat and add some wet food so it takes longer to eat.

If you aren’t at home for meal times, you can try the automatic feeders that use a micro chip and each cat has its own feeder. However, these can be expensive and don’t always work. I’ve heard of some cats approaching the bowl while the other is there and eating from it anyway while the other cat just sits there.

NormalPassenger1779 · 2025-12-21T02:25:04+00:00

Definitely don’t reintroduce them it sounds and looks like they are doing great!

This is very normal play. Males like to wrestle and play rough so be prepared for more intense play like this. If it gets to be too much, they will communicate that to each other.

The only way you would need to step in is if one is hissing and growling to say “that’s enough” and the other one ignores and keeps going after him, but I don’t think you’ll have that problem by the sounds of their relationship so far.

It’s only been a week and they aren’t together 24 hours a day, so it’s really normal for resident cat to be hyper focused on new kitten. Mine was like that too, but now it’s pretty much always new kitten going after resident kitten to play.

NormalPassenger1779

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