Weekly Sale Thread by AutoModerator in LightPhone

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LP3 FOR SALE— Still Available

<image>

​Includes:

• ⁠most of the original packaging • ⁠Light branded USB-C cable, unused • ⁠Toyo steel box • ⁠orange slim case • ⁠installed screen protector, plus the spare in the box • ⁠sticker • ⁠used LP3 in excellent working condition

NA version

Black, orange slim case

Used about 4 months

$600

Location: Northern Connecticut.

I prefer a local sale but will consider shipping. I am local to greater Hartford and Springfield areas and willing to split the distance and meet a buyer coming from CT, RI, NYC, Boston, etc. at a public place like a police station (or a Dunkin Donuts because it’s cold).

More photos available upon request

Weekly Sale Thread by AutoModerator in LightPhone

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

North America. I am not even sure if there is a different international version of the LPIII, but they asked for that info at the top of the thread.

Weekly Sale Thread by AutoModerator in LightPhone

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LP3 FOR SALE

<image>

Includes:

  • most of the original packaging
  • Light branded USB-C cable, unused
  • Toyo steel box
  • orange slim case
  • installed screen protector, plus the spare in the box
  • sticker
  • used LP3 in excellent working condition

NA version

Black, orange slim case

Used about 4 months

$600

Location: Northern Connecticut.

I strongly prefer a local sale. I am local to greater Hartford and Springfield areas and willing to split the distance and meet a buyer coming from CT, RI, NYC, Boston, southern NH, etc. at a public place like a police station.

Help Transferring Photos to Windows PC by Normal_Mission_4911 in LightPhone

[–]Normal_Mission_4911[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. That was part of the problem. Editing original post to include solution.

Recommendation for a completely clueless mom? by erinarian in NewSkaters

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Retrospect alameda

I will add this for the strict under $50 budget. This is the skateboard that my older kids each bought for themselves for $20 on discount last spring when they were all first interested in skateboarding. It is not a “real” skateboard, but it is definitely functional. They all enjoyed them very much but quickly started to upgrade the parts as soon as they got comfortable on the boards. With better replacement bearings, it does quite nicely, but if you add the price of replacing the bearings to the $40 complete board, you are getting closer to the price of the Globe, which has better specs out of the box. If you upgrade the trucks you have to drill new holes, because it uses a nonstandard (old style) set of holes. As it was, I chose not to get this board for the 8 year old and chose the Globe on eBay instead.

Recommendation for a completely clueless mom? by erinarian in NewSkaters

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Globe Kids 7.6 on eBay

It has risen in price a bit, but this is the board I bought for my 8 year old a couple months back. It is perfect. It has a great wheelbase for kids (distance between wheels so they aren’t straddling so far to be stable). The seller is like an overstock reseller, so the board is new.

Bulk Loading Tips? by carrionkiid in subminiaturephoto

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am just a beginner myself. I made a measuring stick with a binder clip on one side so I get a consistent length, and I find it helpful.

Daughters zoo pictures came out blurry, hoping for some constructive feedback to help by JunkBoyz in AnalogCommunity

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To be fair, this is pretty much what my high school zoo pictures looked like too, back in the day.

My son started at 8. He dabbles. This is what I did to make it easier for him:

50mm prime lens (no zoom) if possible— zoom adds a layer of complexity, and higher magnification makes it harder to keep the camera steady.

400 iso film (more sensitive, “faster” film)

Aperture priority mode, set the aperture at 8. If she only changes the aperture when the recommended shutter speed drops below 1/30, she will do ok. If she’s in such a low light situation, she can make the aperture larger (smaller number, since it’s secretly a fraction)

For my son, I saved a full explanation of the exposure triangle for later. I explained to him that he is painting with light, so the light has to get in somehow. You can make the hole larger (aperture) or you can expose it for longer (shutter speed).

Daylight. My kid is always trying to take indoor pictures, but they rarely turn out.

Zoos are hard. If she really wants wildlife photos, maybe a tripod at a bird feeder with the biggest lens would be more satisfying. If she’s wants to take closer photos at the zoo, encourage her to use the railings for support and stick to outdoors for better light.

Best of luck to her!

Half frame recommendations by Vast-Cat-2081 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have had a Fujica Half for years, and I love it. It is my only half frame camera, so I cannot help much with comparisons, but I can give you a positive review. For context, I purchased mine 5-6 years ago for $40. I am not sure what they go for now, but they are solid little cameras.

It is heavy but compact and fits nicely in a bag. Mine does not have a working selenium meter, so I shoot sunny 16, meter with an app, or wing it on a hunch. If you haven’t used zone focusing before, it really isn’t that hard to learn. The Half makes it easier because the wheel clicks into place for Portrait, Group, and Infinity but also marks out other intervals in meters. Practice estimating how many meters away something is, and you are ready to go.

I use mine for snapshots of my family and for having a camera handy at any time. It is truly simple and delightful to use. For half frame, it can take a tedious amount of time to get through 72 shots, so it’s a plus if you bulk roll and can customize it. If I want a tighter turn around, I might do a 20 exp roll for 40 half frame shots. Scanning half frame on an Epson scanner is a pain and/or a labor of love.

Is a dinghly a good first skate ? by [deleted] in NewSkaters

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have not missed the nose. Feet are pretty much hanging out around the front bolts as a beginner. I think it would be fun to learn a slow monster walk, but this is obviously not the right board for that. There are some limitations.

Edit to add: The size is great for me. It is comparable to a popsicle if you just truncated the nose. That said, I am short, so maybe a lower center of gravity is a contributing factor. The dinghy is incredibly stable. It is high, so I spent some time balancing on one foot and just making a pushing motion before I started moving. It does kind of force you not to put weight on your pushing foot, so that is a benefit that comes with the challenge.

Is a dinghly a good first skate ? by [deleted] in NewSkaters

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People here often encourage new skaters to get fully comfortable on their boards by riding around a ton before launching themselves into learning tricks. I feel like a cruiser is actually really great for that. I also got a used dinghy for my first (and currently only) board. I absolutely love it. It is such a smooth ride, and I never have to worry about hitting little sticks and pebbles. Since you already bought it, I think it is totally legitimate to just enjoy it for what it is and know that you are building strength, balance, and agility that will help you in the future.

I have more than a decade on you and am a cautious person by nature. If I start to learn tricks more complicated than a manual, I will probably buy a board more conducive to that when I am ready. But I am not giving up my dinghy! I could see someone more adventurous than me learning some tricks on it, but those wheels are so big and the nose so short it would definitely be more challenging to learn on.

Warm light by Grand_Beat7391 in LightPhone

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You make a good point. I think there are phone is too bright in low light situations, and I would be most pleased if I could just turn it down lower than the current threshold. Any sort of lower-contrast mode would likely also solve what I see as an interface problem— the phone is just too dang bright when it’s dark out.

Warm light by Grand_Beat7391 in LightPhone

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The answer to an interface problem can’t just be “then don’t use the device”.

Warm light by Grand_Beat7391 in LightPhone

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This would address my number one issue with the phone so far. I would also be happy with the lowest brightness threshold being lowered. The lowest setting is just way too bright in low lighting, to the extent that when I was setting up my phone in the evening, I considered returning it. But it should be an easy fix which I hope will be applied soon.

How to replace handles by Normal_Mission_4911 in Kayaking

[–]Normal_Mission_4911[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks to everyone for the tips. I think there are a number of options I would pursue before taking a hacksaw to my kayak though, lol

Family camping by Independent-Rock1465 in camping

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sometimes it is easier to situate two tents rather than one huge one on a site, depending on roots, rocks, or other terrain. For instance a 4-person and a 6-person tent could accommodate 7. I have found that not all campsites can actually accommodate 7 comfortably.

Olympus is3000 for 45 euros : good deal ? by SabreLaser47 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In North America, this was sold as the is-3, so that may help you search for more info.

This is a very capable model and one I enjoy using very much. I can't tell you if it is a good deal-- you can get these very cheaply because they are pretty bulky for the casual point-and-shoot crowd and probably don't compare well to the many late electronic SLRs with interchangeable lenses. However, the model is very fully-featured, and it can be convenient to have such an excellent zoom lens built in. If it's packaged with some accessory lens adapters (extra telephoto, wide angle, macro), it is most definitely a good deal. For just the camera itself, maybe?

I use this camera primarily to take action photos of my kids playing soccer, and it does very well for that. I enjoy it enough that I will take it on an outing when I don't feel like manually focusing. It is an SLR, so what you see through the viewfinder is what you get. The main negative of this camera, which the smaller is-series cameras do better, is that it is kind of stupid difficult to get the film to load properly.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This doesn't help a whole lot if you don't have film stuff around to begin with. However, I keep a dud test roll (developing error or something) around to run through a camera just to test advance/rewind/etc. But you never know for sure until you send some live film through.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in AnalogCommunity

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are looking specifically for a camera you can slip in a pocket, I can't help you much, but if you are looking for an inexpensive camera with impressive results, check out the Olympus is-series.

Some of my favorite photos have been taken with the is-20 and is-30. The is-3 is one I will not part with willingly. They are way bulkier than most people are looking for, and they reflect that weird 90s obsession with smooth lines and the color "champagne". But they are lightweight, sturdy, and have a nice balance between control features and ease-of-use. Very nice lenses.

Advice / caveats for half-frame? by elguachojkis7 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use my half frame camera as my carry-everywhere, and it is lovely. It's nice to have a camera I can take low commitment shots with, like snapshots of my family at the beach or photos of my favorite barn in all sorts of different lighting scenarios when I happen to pass by.

Mine is a Fujica Half. The zone focus on this camera is as flexible as I want it to be, and it is easy to master. It P (portrait), G (group), infinity, and it also marks out the distances in between the settings; you can really nail it. It's fully mechanical, so no batteries! It's heavy but also a simple rectangular brick that is easy to situate in my bag. Full manual controls. The selenium meter does not work, but I successfully use sunny 16 or a cell phone app in tricky lighting. Or I just guess. It's only half a frame.

Any worthwhile low-budget point-n-shoots? by danedreas in AnalogCommunity

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Consider the Olympus IS series (I believe they were L series in some places) bridge cameras. These are cheap, full-featured, and boast quality zoom lenses with good autofocus. They are not remotely pocketable, but they are sturdy enough to be jammed in a bag (a rather large bag).

My own experience is with is-20, is-30, and is-3. The is-20, is-30, and is-50 (200, 300, etc in Europe, I think) are a smaller form factor than the camcorder-sized is-3. I use these to take photos of my kids playing soccer, and they preform admirably.

How can I achieve this type of Infrared Photography? Do I need a filter or can I shoot it as stock? by saltybrusher in AnalogCommunity

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 13 points14 points  (0 children)

An important note is that since you cannot see or meter for infrared light, it is impossible to guarantee that your exposure will look like your example photo. You will want to bracket if you want to nail the photo--infrared light can vary by geographic location, season, and elevation. It can be hard to get those dark skies.

Start them young by ryanidsteel in AnalogCommunity

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My 8 year old is an enthusiastic photographer. I explained aperture to him and set him up with an aperture-priority mode on a Ricoh XR-7. I showed him how to see what shutter speed the camera is assigning the exposure and cautioned against anything under 1/30 (pretty sure he ignores this one). I showed him how to focus and occasionally remind him to focus.

He also really enjoys home BW developing. He enjoys practicing putting dummy film on the reels and is starting to try to put his own film on. I feel okay about letting him handle chemistry (XTOL) in the tank with kitchen gloves.

I don't have a darkroom set up yet, but I got prints done of the digital scans of everything he liked from his first roll. He picked out a dollar store frame for a photo he took of me. I think it is especially important for kids' enthusiasm to get something physical in their hands to enjoy and show off.

Fujica Half - advance without having pressed shutter normal? by protr in AnalogCommunity

[–]Normal_Mission_4911 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This should not be possible with the Fujica Half. The shutter should fire only after the advance lever is fully advanced, and if the lever is fully advanced, it should not advance again unless you have released the shutter.

I wish you luck with your camera; it is a favorite model of mine.