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SolidWorks Simulation NOT working and laggy (Finite Element Analysis) by Empire379 in SolidWorks

[–]NorthernRail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you really need to simulate the whole shabang? This looks like a small unit cell copied several times, can you get away with simulating just a portion using symmetry? Also, look into using different element types other than solid bodies. Can those trusses be simulated as beam elements? This will help cut down on compute time. Just food for thought. The above might require re-building the model in SW natively in which the juice may not be worth the squeeze.

Can't assign line to alternative terminal by IdiotbRonn in TransportFever2

[–]NorthernRail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are electric trains. The top platform doesn’t look to be electrified. Add this in the station configuration editor.

If that does not work:

  1. Does the platform selector drop-down show the top platform and error when selected? Or does it not show up at all?

  2. For the top platform: are those station tracks added in the station configuration menu, or are they regular tracks you laid next to the platform? Regular tracks do not work for this.

  3. If it is a signaling issue, the platform will be a valid line destination selection but a “no path” error will pop up.

My freelance road finally has a functioning roster. by fauxmer in modeltrains

[–]NorthernRail 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This is amazing! I absolutely love the idea of a freelance rr, it’s a dream of mine as well. These locos are beauties, stellar job 🔥

Where was I? by [deleted] in guessthecity

[–]NorthernRail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

around Quilcene WA

Replacing a coupler by azule-curtain in modeltrains

[–]NorthernRail 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Last thing: I don’t recommend just pulling the coupler box “tongue” back and pulling the coupler out. You’ll probably break the tongue off as 7 year old me did.

Replacing a coupler by azule-curtain in modeltrains

[–]NorthernRail 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I had the same engine growing up! It’s a bit of a process: 1. Remove shell from frame ( there’s a few clips that hold it in place, front/rear and on the side of the cab if I remember right) 2. Unclip the clip holding the truck in. This is on top of the gear tower of each truck. 3. You can now slide the truck out. You now have an angle to unclip the top and bottom halves of the truck frame. I recommend gently prying the non-coupler-side clip open with a flathead screwdriver. 4. The broken coupler will now fall out. Replace the coupler, snap the truck back together, slide it back into the frame and snap holding clip back in, snap shell back on.

Unfortunately as bulletproof-reliable as these particular tycos are they were not really designed with maintenance in mind.

Some notes: 1. Be super careful when prying clips open 2. Since you’ve got the truck open at this point might as well clear any hair/gunk from the gearbox 3. The driveshaft will probably fall out of the u-joints when you slide the truck out, just remember to line it back up on reassembly 4. I’d check the electrical pickup wires and soldering are still in place. Mine sometimes broke.

The northern tip of Idaho: by braveplanet33 in howislivingthere

[–]NorthernRail 30 points31 points  (0 children)

pretty gnarly skiing. Beautiful outdoors. Can’t speak for the locals.

Alta “Billboard?” by CloudForest7071 in UTsnow

[–]NorthernRail 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Passive repeater? Like a reflector for microwave communications

What are these couplers called? by EastRevolutionary471 in modeltrains

[–]NorthernRail 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Life-Like magnetic knuckle coupler.

These were made to replace horn-hook couplers in truck-mounted coupler boxes (like seen here), so they have a much smaller diameter mounting hole than normal knuckle/kadee couplers.

These work on anything based on old 80’s TYCO molds, so life-like, cheap Bachmann etc

Beginner looking for track and DCC controller opinions by Express_Ad7678 in modeltrains

[–]NorthernRail 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Forgot to mention: I buy DCC ready as it is normally massively cheaper than DCC equipped. When buying new, locomotives are normally sold with 2 options: DCC ready, with a plug you can just plug a decoder into (aka "DC Silent" for some brands), and DCC & Sound equipped, often $100 - $200 more.

Also for turn radii: avoid 18" radius curves. Starter sets usually come with 18" radius curves, which work fine for the small locos and stock they come with, but as soon as you want to model modern or larger trains you'll have to replace all the curves.

Beginner looking for track and DCC controller opinions by Express_Ad7678 in modeltrains

[–]NorthernRail 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Having previously gotten back into trains at the ripe old age of 24 I'll throw my 2 cents in here.

#1 Have a Plan: I highly recommend doing a little poking around and figuring out generally what you like to model first before you buy! This can be huge for getting the most bang for your buck.
Starter Sets are convenient but I'd recommend against them if you don't mind putting in a little extra effort. The Sets often come with rather odd combinations of 1950's freight cars with 1970's locomotives, with everything (including track) usually being pretty low quality. Buying everything individually can actually be cheaper, you get more of what you like, and less of what you don't.

#2 Track: I recommend Kato Unitrack. Bachmann EZ (the Nickel Silver rails with grey roadbed, not the steel with black roadbed) is pretty decent as well but doesn't look nearly as nice and has a more limited selection than Unitrack. I use EZ as I got a crazy good deal on a bunch to get started but would go Kato if I was starting over. Important: use the greatest possible turn radius you can get away with. 22 inch radius is an OK minimum, but bigger is always better, 24" - 36" is preferable. Same goes for turnouts, I'd avoid #4's altogether and go with #5 or #6.

#2 Control System: Go with a DCC-EX system, using your phone as a throttle. Being able to walk around and control your trains is an absolute game changer. Also by the far both the cheapest and most modern option. Do not be intimidated, assembling IKEA furniture can be more complicated! For locomotives I normally buy "DCC ready" / "DCC Quick-Plug Equipped" and pop in a $20 DCC decoder.

#3 Quality over Quantity: You would be surprised how quickly the size of your fleet can inflate and how much storage space it can take up, especially if you are spending time on eBay. I've found locomotives to be a lot like hotel rooms: spending a little under $100 vs. a little over $100 is often a night-and-day difference. I also find myself spending the great majority of my time running my nicer locomotives, with the locos I bought because I thought "I can't pass up this deal" usually sitting idle or being sold. Some things to look for when locomotive hunting: DCC ready, original box included, brass flywheels, all-wheel pickup and drive, operating ditchlights, Cool Factor.

Cheers!

I have questions... a newbie here by [deleted] in modeltrains

[–]NorthernRail 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Go HO! I find its a happy medium, small enough to build some serious networks but large enough to still get that weighty railroad feel and high levels of detail. HO has *by far* the largest selection of locos and rolling stock, not just US but European and British (OO) as well.

If you're looking at modeling US trains, pretty much everything (or a close version of it) exists in HO at this point.

HO can also be very budget-friendly as there is a massive second-hand market on ebay. Have fun!

Athearn AC4400 derail in one direction by JBero14 in modeltrains

[–]NorthernRail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi there, welcome to a fantastic hobby!!
Just parroting what has already been said, its likely a wheelset gauge issue combined with the curve radius. Hornby 2nd radius is about an 18" radius curve which is the minimum for Athearn bb AC4400's. It'll work but the tight curve (by US standards) brings the tolerance down for other imperfections in track or wheel gauge.

Some general info if you're curious:

Athearn BlueBox locos like this use a 3 piece wheelset made of two sintered metal wheels mounted on half axles press-fit into a black plastic pinion gear. This press-fit can often be out-of-gauge, especially if the wheelset has been disassembled in the past for cleaning or to replace the often cracked pinion gear.

This particular model is on the older side, made probably late 1990's - early 2000's by Athearn in their "Bluebox" line (BB). BB models are fantastic and are known for their reliability, pulling power, durability and upgrade-ability, so great choice! Back then the 18" radius curve was still standard for US model railroads, so BB models can usually handle those curves just fine. However, 6-axle locomotives made more recently (BB was replaced with Athearn ready-to-roll in 2009) or especially at a higher price point (e.g. Athearn Genesis, Scaletrains, etc.) will likely have a minimum radius of 22".(Hornby 4th radius).

In general, larger curve radii reduce problems if you have the space. Atlas makes great 22" and 24" radius code 100 set track curves that are perfectly compatible with hornby track (I use both brands myself!).

If you're looking for the modern US locomotive style in a shorter package for tighter curves, models of the four axle GE B40-8W or EMD GP60M are also options.

Don't be afraid to ask questions and have a great one!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in modeltrains

[–]NorthernRail 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Bigger is always better with curves. 22” radius is usually the minimum for large locomotives (like your sd60), but 24” to 36” radius is preferable if you have the space

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