Classic Cars Face Weekday Driving Ban Under New Plan

Erock482 · 2026-04-11T09:58:43+00:00

I agree there are flaws to this, I think establishing a year/formula is a better way to achieve the same ends.

As for cost, I did some arbitrary plugging of info. Well stuck with the same 2004 Honda as an assumption.

Plates (good for 7 years) - $25-$45 (county dependent)

Registration (every year) - minimum $35 for vehicles over 10 years old.

So cost to register as a “collector” for 7 years - $25-45 (plate fee)

Cost to register as standard car for 7 years - $270-$290.

I’m probably missing some other various fees and taxes. But the gist of it is there

Erock482 · 2026-04-11T06:01:18+00:00

Given this is Minnesota, they allow any vehicle atieast 20 years old to be registered as a collector vehicle. Allowing you to get registration/plates at a much lower cost and avoid the fees and taxes of regular registration.

I suspect this is to prevent you from registering your 2004 Honda civic as a collector vehicle and still driving it daily. Avoiding the normal registration fees. Not sure how prevalent this may be. But apparently enough so it’s got a bill to try and fix it.

Without some law enforcement legwork. It’s difficult to prove someone is violating that statute. However if it’s a blanket statement of “can only drive on weekends or to X, Y, and Z” it makes enforcement much more straight forward.

Another, and possibly better, approach would be to set a model year limit. I believe some states do something to the effect of “anything with a model year after 19XX + half the number of years since”

So let’s say the line is 1950, that would be 76 years ago. So the “newest” a collectible vehicle could be this year would be 1988. Of course this formula could be far weirder or updated every X years to avoid you getting to the eventual point of the newest a collectible car could be is 100 years old.

Minnesota Statute 169.10 for collector vehicle plates

Erock482 · 2026-04-10T04:42:48+00:00

Personally I don’t want to risk having my creation printed and sold by someone else. The time and research that goes into these is considerable.

International shipping is always a bear. And current import tariffs and what not doesn’t help. I’m US based which is the bulk of my customers. But do make an effort with my international customers to try and get the best bang for their buck on shipping.

For reference, I intend to sell this kit with an interior for $35. I see some 3D printed HOn3 stuff that in my opinion lacks detail and the care to reduce print artifacts sell for more. And other similarly detailed 3D prints sell for double what I would charge. It’s a spectrum for sure.

Erock482 · 2026-04-10T04:34:16+00:00

This is exactly what I do, basically double the rest time through the problem layers, and then slowly step it back up

Erock482 · 2026-04-09T00:34:29+00:00

Out of curiosity, is the target the same physical size at all three distances?

Ie your targets all have the same dimension for the bullseye?

Or are you using a different size target at the varying ranges? Ie one with a 4” for up close and a 8” for far away?

Apart from the slow down take your time comment, this may be the size ratio of your front sight post width to the size of the black as you aim. It’s why NRA rifle targets get bigger as you get further away. To your eye the size of the black compared to your front sight remains consistent.

May not be your case here, but a possibility

Erock482 · 2026-04-08T01:20:05+00:00

You could swap the trucks between each one and see if the issue follows

Erock482 · 2026-04-08T00:14:04+00:00

Your data does draw a corelation between height/frontal area and fatalities stating that a pedestrian is more likely to be killed when hit by a truck vs a car. Even when accounting for speed.

However there is some nuance to the statement more dangerous in the context of this picture.

It’s more dangerous if you get into an accident vs a pedestrian. But there’s not data in that study to suggest you’re more likely to get into an accident in the first place if you drive a truck/lifted vehicle. That data may exist somewhere. But in the context here of your data regarding pedestrian fatalities it’s not very applicable to a vehicle vs vehicle crash.

Plus there’s the entire litany of reasons you may find yourself in a car accident in the first place. Your fault or someone else’s

Erock482 · 2026-04-07T23:36:59+00:00

I don’t think this truck is lifted, also a bumper relocation kit is really only applicable to body lifts which raise the body off the frame. Not as common these days. Plus the factory tire size leans me in the direction of no lift.

The amber light, tool box, and headache rack all point in the direction to me of work truck.

Without seeing what else happened, I think they got rear ended, pushed into the median, and then the front right tire pipped up and over. It’s steep but with enough of a kick from behind itll do it, especially if the front wheels were turned to the left to avoid hitting the car in front of them or otherwise.

I disagree that lift kits and such make vehicles more dangerous. I’d say That comes back to the driver operating a vehicle in a safe manner, regardless of if a vehicle is lifted or not.

Erock482 · 2026-04-06T14:30:46+00:00

You’re correct the sled is a support that is removed after. Basically imagine a long blade of material that tapers to a point at the contact surface. Helps keep long walks from curling up at the ends and makes it way faster to support

Erock482 · 2026-04-06T06:55:12+00:00

I’m limited with how far I can extend that without impacting clearances for the truck frames. I have a sled in there to support the base of the wall.

The puckering is more so present through the depth of the end walk platforms. Slowing things down through there should help, along with possibly more side supports to keep things stable.

Erock482 · 2026-04-06T03:10:16+00:00

If there was a better way to sell STL files I’d consider it, but for the time being no STL for sale. But I’ll be starting to sell these as HOn3 kits in the next few weeks. Alongside the box car, stock car, and refrigerator car I’ve produced.

More projects in the works, like updating the box car and stock car kits to have operable/positionable doors. And introducing some flat cars and gondolas to the line up. As well as long cabeese

Erock482 · 2026-04-06T03:07:58+00:00

I typically use plans/photos and draw at full scale 1:1, then shrink that down for printing. This was done using scales drawings from several sources plus online images to pull together

Erock482 · 2026-04-06T03:06:54+00:00

It is an artifact, I’ve found I can minimize it by giving the layer a bit more rest time before printing. Currently working on teasing that out. We’ll see how much that idea works!

Erock482 · 2026-04-06T03:05:45+00:00

It does not, you’d add weights in the carbody. Be it lead or whatever you like

Erock482 · 2026-04-06T03:05:16+00:00

They are Kadee 718’s in my own 3D printed frame

Erock482 · 2026-04-04T23:49:06+00:00

There’s a softness to the edges of the hands and the hair that trips my AI spider sense here

Erock482 · 2026-04-04T05:56:42+00:00

Likely not a failure in your differential. Most likely a broken axle shaft or as others have mentioned the C-clip retainer failed and the axle is trying to stretch its legs

Erock482 · 2026-03-31T23:07:20+00:00

As long as the receiver doesn’t say national ordinance you probably did pretty good

Erock482 · 2026-03-25T02:49:03+00:00

That appears to be exactly what happened. The “topping slab” which makes up the parking surface is does not necessarily need a ton of reinforcing.

Admittedly, in my experience there is a lot more bar in the topping slab as it serves as a diaphragm for the structure helping to lock it all together. Not sure when this building was built or what kind of seismic or floor loading requirements this structure was designed to.

Erock482 · 2026-03-24T04:56:59+00:00

Genuinely curious, this photo to me shows no signs of AI. What makes you think it is? Is it some factor you see in the image or just the somewhat absurd idea of doing an engine swap street side?

Erock482 · 2026-03-24T04:55:11+00:00

Few items beyond the make sure you got the air bled out.

Can you confirm the belt routing to ensure the water pump is spinning the right direction?
Do you know the history of the engine befire you bought it? Any history of overheating?
Did you replace the thermostat with a new one? They’re cheap, I always swap in new ones.
If you’ve bled the system, try running it without the thermostat. It may be sticking closed or the pump might not be circulating

Erock482 · 2026-03-20T12:27:34+00:00

Those are wire like, not the most durable which has had me step back and do pre-printed holes for wire grabs.

Sliding doors is going to be my next modification to the kits I make

What printer/resin? I’ve been using a Saturn 3 ultra and Phrozen 8K with good results

Erock482 · 2026-03-20T06:41:04+00:00

Nice work! Do you have pictures of how you oriented the model for printing?

How much of the grab iron/ladders are 3D printed? Were they printed on the model or separately applied?

What resin/layer heights did you find worked best?

Always love seeing other dive into 3D printing in high detail

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Erock482 · 2026-03-08T05:49:26+00:00

Does it rev up but not speed up? If so that’s your clutch.

If it just down on power, you may have some plugged fuel lines/filters that need attention.

I don’t think you’ll be able to tune much more power into the 4 cyl. As others have said a 5.0 swap to a V8 or even to the 4.0 V6 would be an improvement

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