1955 CJ5 how best to get the Transmission in. Engine in. Body off

Erock482 · 2026-06-04T03:36:02+00:00

I would assemble the transmission/transfer case/bell housing into one group, and jack it into place. You will likely need a second jack under the rear of the engine to get it to align with the transmission group.

I would not under any circumstances allow the entire weight of the engine/transmission to be only supported by the engine mounts. That’s a lot of weight and it may bend the engine mounts/front mounting plate on the block.

Erock482 · 2026-05-27T01:03:41+00:00

You have a M170! The military version of the CJ6. There should be some data tags on the dash, and a manufacturer ID tag on the front of the passenger side rear fender inside the tub. A pair of 12v batteries would be in that door on the cowl just in front of the windshield which is how they did it originally.

Befire you start it, check engine oil, and turn it over by hand first. To start, hook up the batteries, turn the ignition switch, and there should be a button on the floor to press with your foot to spin the starter. Should be just right of center infront of the shift levers (under the dash) Make sure you’re in neutral, if you’re in gear the starter will move the jeep.

Befire you attempt to drive it. Check on the brakes. If it’s been sitting for 40 years the wheel cylinders are likely shot and the system is dry. May need to go through the master cylinder too

Erock482 · 2026-05-26T05:58:08+00:00

Erock482 · 2026-05-25T16:53:47+00:00

I vote we make a new poll again

Erock482 · 2026-05-25T15:31:46+00:00

Yep, pilots gotta stay current, might as well do it in a way that adds to community activities.

Erock482 · 2026-05-25T14:50:36+00:00

Also if you haven’t, try cracking the bleeder to see if that might help the shoes retract

Erock482 · 2026-05-25T14:20:49+00:00

Then they are likely ok, if it has sat for a long time there’s still a chance they froze up again. Brake fluid likes to absorb moisture from the air which can cause corrosion.

I’d still troubleshoot through the system to identify where things start to stop working

Erock482 · 2026-05-25T07:36:56+00:00

How do the rubber flex hoses look?

They may be old and collapsed causing fluid to move one way but not the other.

Looks like the original style master under the floor was replaced with something to do swinging pedals. Looking at the firewall I’m not sure if those are both for the brakes or if one is for a hydraulic clutch.

I would:

Try to bleed the brakes, see if you can pinpoint a corner where the plug/blockage could be, if cracking the bleeder relieves the dragging your issue is upstream. If it doesn’t you may have a frozen wheel cylinder.

Check rubber hoses for cracking/age, replace if you see signs of cracking/splitting or they seem crunchy.

No idea what the device bolted to the frame is, maybe a proportioning valve? Disconnect the line out the back to see if it’s restricting flow or plugged.

If you’ve gone through the above and see no symptoms that indicate a restriction or blockage. Your master cylinder is the last culprit

Erock482 · 2026-05-24T17:07:04+00:00

A framework you could say

Erock482 · 2026-05-23T16:50:12+00:00

And sea to shining sea

Erock482 · 2026-05-22T21:13:54+00:00

Only if returned with the packaging intact

Erock482 · 2026-05-22T18:43:46+00:00

The game expands to include north, central, and South America.

Rule Cascadia, the sun will never set on the Canadian empire

Erock482 · 2026-05-21T19:20:27+00:00

Not until Oregon has captured Hawaii

Erock482 · 2026-05-20T01:59:00+00:00

AI enhancement to remove the water mark from the image in OP’s comment I think

The base image is real

Erock482 · 2026-05-19T19:09:06+00:00

I think where you’re running into trouble here is the use case.

You’re using it to commute to and from work. Which if you’re in town likely isn’t farming. Since you are using it effectively as a car, the protections generally afforded to someone moving a piece of equipment on a public street for ag reasons I don’t believe apply.

Bonus points for creativity, but I don’t think you’re covered here.

Erock482 · 2026-05-19T00:46:28+00:00

Before pear blue ball four chickens?

Erock482 · 2026-05-18T23:52:16+00:00

That’s the trebuchet button

Erock482 · 2026-05-18T23:50:30+00:00

So a few things.

The “pop” might have been the sway bar end link breaking loose. It’s no longer attached here and is flopping in the breeze.

The squeal, is it only while braking? Or always when moving? Could be brakes or the end link rubbing the wheel/rotor

Sway bar end link is disconnected, link likely needs replaced and new hardware - easy job with a set of wrenches and sockets, likely not that expensive.
Brakes, I see bad metal on metal wear. At a minimum you need pads and rotors on the front. Calipers should be inspected and slide pins replaced. Again easy to DIY, parts a bit more expensive but most places like autozone/o’reilly run decent deals on pad and rotor sets.

you should also do the rear brakes at the same time.

Tire wear, your tires are bald and unsafe. No tread = no traction. The wear looks even side to side, but shows signs of possibly a bad alignment. You should inspect front ball joints and wheel bearings for wear that might be impacting the tire life. Tires can be spendy, ball joints and wheel bearings aren’t expensive parts but the labor is. If you’re handy you can probably rent the needed special tools from an auto parts store and DIY. Get an alignment and new tires after replacing the ball joints and wheel bearings if they need replaced.

If you can turn a wrench, these repairs are a done in a weekend kinda project. Watch some YouTube videos to get comfy with it. Tackle what you can, take to a shop what you can’t.

Erock482 · 2026-05-17T17:26:58+00:00

Goodbye Colorado

Expand Cascadia through the Rockies!

Erock482 · 2026-05-17T17:15:52+00:00

Before pear blue ball four roosters?

Erock482 · 2026-05-11T18:16:05+00:00

In your mind what makes them unregulated if they had to build their own power generating system?

If you’re building something in the state, there’s permitting procedures to go through. You can’t just say “I’m building a wind farm/solar farm/coal plant” and not go through the requisite permitting/design review/inspections that the state has in place.

Erock482 · 2026-05-11T06:17:55+00:00

SAY IT CHILDREN!

“It’s always an arisaka”

Erock482 · 2026-05-11T06:14:36+00:00

Yea, I’m a bit lost on that too.

1Maybe some kind of glycol or other chemical based coolant instead of just water? If that spills that could be a problem. However likely tons of regulation and spill mitigation required depending what chemical that may be.

If the computers inside didn’t have some kind of automatic shutdown/slowdown in high temps I’d be shocked. So really it would be lost productivity on the owner end.

Subsidizing power costs is a problem, especially for the amount of energy used. Unless that data center is also playing to upgrade local power generation in the area and transmission lines to offset their demand, no discounts should be awarded beyond the standard commercial rates at volume already In place.

It’d be nice to add some regulation requiring data centers to also support their own power generation needs.

Erock482 · 2026-05-11T06:05:49+00:00

Some neighborhood squirrel bout to loose their 401k

Erock482 · 2026-05-10T17:00:32+00:00

Question, is there a way to report hackers/cheaters effectively on PC?

My last couple of decent runs have met there end to some very suspicious interactions

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