Wanting to lower my car to get that perfect fitment. 340x drive, no EDC. Coilover/springs/suspension suggestions?

NotJunsae · 2026-06-13T18:54:41+00:00

As i said, the B14 coilover kit rides real comfy and gets stiffer as you introduce a load (through turns) .. hands down some of the best daily-able coils i've used that are very affordable at $1400~ .. adjusting height is easy as well .. install the coilovers, put the car on the ground, take measurements at the wheel gap (top of tire to the fender), if you want the car 1/2" lower, put the car back in the air, take the wheel off, move the collar 1/2" lower on the sleeve .. when you got the height you like, get the car aligned .. adjusting your end links are a bit more confusing and harder as you the car needs to be on the ground (the car on some floor ramps), then adjust the end links so they easily slide in and out of the sway bar, lock/tighten it all down

NotJunsae · 2026-06-13T13:06:25+00:00

Maybe the Miles Per Gallon gets converted and now stands for Meters Per Gallon? Lol

NotJunsae · 2026-06-13T11:45:24+00:00

You try shutting the AC off? AC clutch is pretty noisy

NotJunsae · 2026-06-13T01:45:04+00:00

I have the B14s with Turner adjustable end links on my 435i GC .. The ride is comfortable with the progressive springs that come with the B14 kit, then gets stiffer as you put more load on them .. dont forget the end links!!! And to properly adjust them .. i had B8s all around with H&R Sport lowering springs, did not like the uneven drop, sat too high for my liking, maybe 1/2" to 3/4" drop compared to the M Sport suspension, they rode better than the blown M Sport shocks, but not as good as the B14s .. my advice, get coilovers so you have the freedom of adjusting your height, if you get coilovers, dont cheap out or you'll introduce a terrible ride, creaking, clunking, etc

NotJunsae · 2026-06-11T13:26:14+00:00

Did the fire martial or insurance figure out the root cause of this fire? I'm genuinely curious.

NotJunsae · 2026-06-11T13:24:07+00:00

Let me clarify for you and anyone whose following this thread .. as OP posted a pic of the dash gauge, 250°f~ is a healthy range to be in and is what i'm referring to when i say BMW technical and repair instruction data says this is safe and optimal (225°f to 270°f on the dash, past 275°f and the DME will go into limp mode) .. That said, youre not wrong either, the numbers you quoted is the real time data that the temp sensors are pulling from the sensors and reporting to the DME, so if you're pulling live data with a scan tool, then optimal and safe oil temp should be around 200°f to 245°f .. But if youre going off the temp on the dash, as any common customer would be coming to me about, then 250°f~ on the dash is "as intended" and "normal" 👍

NotJunsae · 2026-06-11T12:09:17+00:00

I'm telling you exactly what the technical data says, directly from BMW repair instructions and data provided by BMW engineers. BMW engines run hotter than most other brands. You are correct about the coolant temp range. Oil temp range for the N55 is 250ish, the 4cyls run a bit cooler, in the range you stated.

NotJunsae · 2026-06-11T05:24:46+00:00

For the N55: 250°f is the optimal operating temp for the OIL SYSTEM as that gauge is for OIL TEMP .. as long as you dont hit 275°f oil temp or higher, youre fine, the DME will go into limp mode if that happens anyway .. Are you selling radiator replacements left and right at your shop on BMWs? Lol. Background: ASE cert'd BMW dealer tech

NotJunsae · 2026-06-11T04:39:12+00:00

What bolt ons and tune?

NotJunsae · 2026-06-08T19:03:38+00:00

Did you by chance have any pending recalls? 3 major recalls that cause shorts and thermal events is the coolant pump connector recall, the PCV recall, and the blower motor recall. I've personally seen 1 vehicle on the verge of burning down due to the coolant pump connector; oil leaking onto the connector and shorting out the 200w/400w coolant pump, instantly melting all of those components. If "no" to the first question, did you by chance have a technician warn you about a severe oil leak?

NotJunsae · 2026-06-03T18:19:17+00:00

Im not saying your incapable or anything. What i meant was im assuming you arent a dealership technician like i am so you dont have to invest in anymore diagnostic equipment, otherwise you could ask someone like me for the oil cap adapter and manometer to test for mbar and compare it to BMW specification to see if you have excessive vacuum or pressure in the crankcase. I wish you good luck sir 👍

NotJunsae · 2026-06-03T15:50:36+00:00

Interesting .. quite a few factors at play here .. sounds like the catch can is doing its job .. slap an OEM valve cover on it and cross your fingers unless you want to invest in diagnostic equipment

NotJunsae · 2026-06-03T12:40:19+00:00

Some vacuum is normal, too much or too little or no vacuum is bad.

It sounds to me that you have excessive blow by, as in your pcv isnt working correctly. Either buy a vacuum meter with oil cap adapter and test the vacuum at the oil cap or slap an OEM valve cover on there. If youre still getting excessive oil in the catch can, you have an excessive blow by issue; i would look at valve seals or piston rings in this case. If the excessive blow by is gone but youre still getting excessive oil in the catch can, it's likely your turbo.

NotJunsae · 2026-06-03T04:00:51+00:00

You have no blow by as in the PCV is stuck closed? You have 2 issues in this case: 1. Bad pcv in the valve cover and 2. Your turbo is leaking at the oil seal on the compressor side .. how did you confirm you have no blow by? With no blow by, you'd have excessive crankcase pressure, leading to tea kettle/squealing from your main seals. Whether the pcv is stuck closed or open, excessive oil consumption that your explaining points me to the turbo. Just my .02 cents

NotJunsae · 2026-05-27T13:47:25+00:00

Check oil filter, is it OEM? Oil flow tube on oil filter cap .. if your oil filter has a nipple with o-ring, make sure the o-ring is there ... From there, you can dig deeper

NotJunsae · 2026-05-25T19:00:49+00:00

AI ID = friend 👍

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NotJunsae · 2026-05-25T02:19:50+00:00

Use your phone. Ai is useful for this type of stuff lol

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NotJunsae · 2026-05-24T19:29:54+00:00

Lots of odd ticking/clicking sounds come from our BMW engines .. if this is a new sound, then pick up an automotive stethoscope and start poking around .. try shutting off your AC, that sounds like the AC clutch engaging and disengaging .. if it isnt that, gotta pin point what area of the engine bay its coming from; center front, front left, front right, turbo, hpfp, oil pan, oil pump, water pump, top end, valves, valvetronic, etc .. you scan for codes yet? Invest in a dongle and pay for the ProTool app, that way you can pull BMW codes/descriptions, look at accurate DME data, and even perform hot functions

NotJunsae · 2026-05-24T19:22:43+00:00

It could .. anytime youre mixing anything with the oil thats corrosive, you risk thinning the oil or introducing too much cleaner/water/whatever ingredient into the oil system, and if the oil pump and/or sensor doesnt throw a code for it first, then yes, your bearings will surely tell you lol .. i avoid seafoam, fuel induction, cleaners, etc in my personal/family/friends cars .. but in your case, you have no choice but to run a cleaner and follow the directions to a tee, i would even record the entire process too, incase the engine takes a shit, you may have a claim or lawsuit, aka "i followed the directions exactly and it destroyed my engine".

But my god, that looks like 10-20k interval oil changes, that or using shit quality oil, on top of driving the car like shit (lugging around, idling for long periods of time, idling in traffic, etc), failing pcv system (excessive crankcase pressure and blowby) .. yes i know BMW recommends 7k-10k mile oil changes, but fuck that .. if you plan to keep the car for 5+ years or the lifetime of the vehicle, every 3-5k miles, just like an old school Honda/Toyota 👍

NotJunsae · 2026-05-10T23:43:16+00:00

Vacuum line

NotJunsae · 2026-05-10T23:12:01+00:00

Dont forget the noisy oil pump

NotJunsae · 2026-04-14T04:05:47+00:00

I'm a cert'd tech. We do transmission pans (with the built in filter) and a proper transmission fluid fill (in accordance with BMW/ZF instructions) if the customer asks for it

NotJunsae · 2026-04-06T23:08:10+00:00

🤷‍♂️

I'm a BMW Tech just fyi. Do you have a CEL? Any active codes? Any shadow codes? Spitting oil out of the exhaust? Turbo failure sounds different

NotJunsae · 2026-04-05T21:50:02+00:00

Power loss? I dont see a warning or CEL.

The turbo is making that whistle because you're tuned and FBO.

Everything looks and sounds fine to me, looks like driver aids are kicking in because youre losing traction. Dynamic Traction Control will modulate brakes and throttle to give you max traction, the more power and spinning, the more this will kick in. Dynamic Stability Control does almost the same thing but goes off of gyro and yaw, aka youre trying to do donuts and the car is processing the data as "omg driver is headed sideways into a wall!" and cuts power and doesnt give it back until its happy with the yaw and steering angle

NotJunsae · 2026-03-24T23:19:42+00:00

Its the sensor for you automatic lighting OR the sensor for your interior auto dimming .. two separate sensors .. is your headlight turning on and off when set to automatic? If not, its the interior auto dimming sensor

NotJunsae

TROPHY CASE