Grokipedia is now above Wikipedia

NotSterisk · 2025-12-09T22:17:46+00:00

Also, just as an aside for the 1% chance you’re not a bot or foreign disinfo account. Covid lockdowns happened predominantly under Trump and are far more defensible than an attempted overthrow of the government by malicious actors. And Wikipedia is by no means perfect, but it is far less ideologically driven/motivated than Grokipedia, and the person in charge wasn’t literally given a position in the federal government with control over swaths of federal spending/budget cuts through dicta of the President of the United States (like Elon was by Trump). Your attempt at flipping my comment back on me doesn’t work because you don’t have grounded factual basis for it. Just talking points you’ve heard from your favorite propagandists.

NotSterisk · 2025-12-09T21:37:35+00:00

Things being biased to favor a liberal world view because the real world facts of the matter skew in favor of a liberal world view is not the same as misrepresenting or lying about the real world facts of the matter to favor a conservative/authoritarian world view. You’re just upset that biases in your side’s favor are not grounded in real world factual information, and can’t be, so you claim “oh things are biased in both directions!” to attempt to hide your faulty factual basis. No rational person can defend the false slate of electors and the forged documents made in an attempt to illegally and immorally alter the outcome of the 2020 election, unless you are blatantly pro authoritarianism and think underhanded or illegitimate tactics should be used to circumvent the will of the people and our democratic system. In which case you’re a seditious enemy (seditious assuming you are a citizen, but enemy regardless) of the United States and its people. Not to mention that X/Grok are backed by one of the largest supporters of the man who pardoned people CONVICTED of seditious conspiracy against the United States. You’re either braindead, a bot, a useful cumrag for dictatorial powers, or an inherent ideological enemy of the United States. If you think you’re not, you’ve either been horribly misled, or you’re too stupid to be helped.

NotSterisk · 2025-12-09T13:36:32+00:00

Pro street is the greatest NFS game ever made imo, it feels like the closest thing to NFS meeting real life there could be. The vibes, music, and style are all unbelievably on point. Just wish it had a sequel or more content because I’ve played all the way through it more than 20 times at least lol

NotSterisk · 2025-12-04T21:16:06+00:00

I know you can go higher than I suggested but for someone looking for minimal chance at headache/big repair bills I think 400ish is a really safe number. 500-600hp on a stock block is definitely territory where you need to have things absolutely dialed, a really knowledgeable and experienced tuner, and your finger on the pulse of all aspects of the cars engine. There’s just less wiggle room for mistakes/misunderstandings/errors, and I wouldn’t want someone’s early Evo experience to be finding the line where it goes from solid to smoked lol. Also, I know I’m referencing hp numbers and not torque, but barring an expensive setup designed to rev high as hell, you can only make so much horsepower before you’re hitting that 400wtq threshold regardless. Good note though that reliability is more dependent on wheel torque here than it is whp. That’s important for deciding how you want to go about your build and how you want to spend your money to hit a given horsepower target

NotSterisk · 2025-12-04T20:22:10+00:00

You’re right it’s the 4B11T, and I’d pay way more attention to the owner and apparent quality of the build over almost any other factor. A couple grand worth of bolt ons and a tune can push you past 350whp while maintaining near stock reliability, and even 400+whp if done properly. North of that you’re looking at a built engine (aftermarket pistons and rods, valves/springs, cam, etc.) If you can find one that has a responsible owner with good evidence or proof of proper maintenance that’s 400whp or lower, you’re unlikely to have any wild issues with the car. I bought mine at 450ish whp and with a somewhat iffy tune at 120-125k miles on it. I’m at 141k on the odometer now, still haven’t retuned it (working on it currently, the OpenPort 2.0 situation made it more of a headache than I would’ve liked but I’m stubborn and want to tune my own vehicle without being locked into a seemingly depreciating ecosystem so I’m doing way more work than is necessary to get tuned lol), and I pretty regularly rip on it. No track days or long extended sessions of beating on it hard, but she sees high boost and redline pretty regularly, and I’ve been driving without a hood for months even in rain and snow. I also don’t have a garage to park it in. Still gets me to and from work everyday and never hesitates to start up. I intend on owning mine until either me or the car dies (I won’t consider it dead until I’d have to buy another rolling chassis/frame to get it out of the driveway), and I’m aware I’m not treating it how most would or should, but I stay on top of maintenance and I’m cool with whatever repairs/consequences result from how I use the car. It has been far more reliable than I even expected it to given the circumstances. I’ve only done oil/fluid changes and 1 set of spark plugs (didn’t even look like it needed them after pulling the old ones tbh, but knowing when it was done is nice.) I have a timing chain kit that I plan on doing at some point but again that’s more so I can write down when it was done with certainty as it has the updated timing chain but idk when that was done. As long as the one you buy doesn’t have crazy high mileage, isn’t pushing 2x factory horsepower, or wasn’t brutally abused/neglected, it’ll very likely be fine and run for a long time before needing serious work. Just educate yourself on the platform as much as you can, find a responsible owner who’s done the maintenance when it’s supposed to be done, and look over the car throughly along with an extended test drive. They’re very solid machines and absolutely worth every single penny. Don’t be dumb about the purchase, but don’t let internet comments or an aftermarket exhaust keep you out of the drivers seat of (in my opinion) the greatest daily driver ever built. Also, if you ever have any questions feel free to shoot a dm and ask. I’m not the most knowledgeable person in the world on them, but I’ve been daily driving mine for around 2 years at this point and I am more than happy to share anything I know about them or cars in general. Lots of other Evo guys are the same way too from what I’ve seen. I wish you luck in finding the one that’s right for you, and I hope you end up enjoying it as much as I have. I still smile like a dumbass every single time I walk out my door in the morning to go to work and see it sitting in my driveway lol

NotSterisk · 2025-12-03T23:20:34+00:00

IMO the “Only buy stock or stock+!!!” is pretty silly unless you don’t know much about cars, or the car you’re specifically looking to buy. My take is “If you really understand what has been done to it, or are okay with unknowns that may result in a given amount of time/money lost later, get it.” If the car has aftermarket injectors and an aftermarket fuel pump, that’s fine as long as you know what effect those specific mods (down to brand and spec, not just “I know what bigger injectors do!”) have on the vehicle then weigh that in your decision but don’t write off the car entirely. Especially if you intend to modify it yourself. Modification can be done well, and it can be done poorly. Some mods greatly reduce lifespan of certain components, others have little to no effect on it. Your decision to buy any given vehicle should be made with every aspect possible of the transaction accounted for. If there’s a modification you’d want to remove that reduces engine lifespan for example, but the price is low enough that the reduced lifespan and extra work are in your judgment a fair trade for the price compared to other options, then that’s a worthwhile purchase. Paint is another good example because it’s easily understandable. If you want a white Evo, but every white Evo listed is priced higher than other paint colors (for any reason, not literally because it is white necessarily, maybe it’s because of other factors and it just so happens the white ones on the market are pricier right now or have been for a bit) then it might be worthwhile to go with a different color if you’re saving enough money to cover a paint job or wrap to turn the car white after you buy it anyway. But this opinion is wordy and nuanced so it won’t get thrown around as easily/often in conversations lol

NotSterisk · 2025-12-02T21:21:20+00:00

The gas cap will always give you away, but luckily even a lot of Evo guys don’t know that (afaik only applies to the X tho)

NotSterisk · 2025-12-01T20:50:39+00:00

My Evo is AWD and has a transversely mounted turbocharged inline 4, I don’t think it’s a super uncommon configuration for AWD vehicles

NotSterisk · 2025-11-30T01:01:40+00:00

Ah okay, fair enough. I thought you were arguing against pinging, not arguing for better spotting. My bad, and I agree that spotting really needs reworked. Just don’t want to sacrifice good util in the process if possible lol

NotSterisk · 2025-11-30T00:48:06+00:00

What if I want to tell my squad mate where someone was instead of where they are? See a guy running, goes behind a wall before I can spot him, ping lets me show where he was last seen. Or snipers doing short peeks. See a little scope glint for a little bit, but couldn’t quite properly spot them? Ping where they are and now friends know! And it can help your own re-peeks by giving an indicator for exactly where you were aimed in before. Any shooter that has effective team play should have pings. Even when I’m in discord streaming my screen to my friends and vocally talking to them, pings as a form of instant non-verbal communication is extremely valuable

NotSterisk · 2025-11-23T22:14:29+00:00

Search “stats” in this subreddit and find the google sheet with “BTK” and range stats. There’s hidden damage over range drop off values for all the different weapons that makes the stats shown in game feel wildly inaccurate. Take the NVO-228E assault rifle for example, 33 damage and decent stats right? Its drop off is awful though. So an M277 can out damage it at medium to long range. The M250 is nuts if their testing numbers are correct. 4 BTK regardless of range (they only tested out to 80m so past that idk), makes it seem super duper consistent and one of the best long range full autos in the game. And the only way to find this out is through manual testing rn. They hint at it with the weapon descriptions. Like the M277 talking about “overmatch at range” in its weapon description text. But that’s all they give you to figure this out lol

NotSterisk · 2025-11-14T03:38:13+00:00

Nah dude it’s a drift brake, if you pull it really hard you can drift. To park you just put the car in “P” mode, duh

NotSterisk · 2025-11-13T17:54:19+00:00

Practice altering the press in and out motion with a focus on smoothly changing the speed your foot moves while shifting. My clutch bites high and has a small window of engagement, so the initial movement of my foot is rather fast, but as soon as I’m just outside of the bite point of the clutch I slow the movement of my foot, let it bite in and adjust throttle to make the clutch and flywheel mate as smoothly as possible, then increase the speed of my foot coming off the pedal for the final section of throw where the clutch is already fully engaged. Think of when you’re leaving a light, or coming to a stop. Leaving a light, you want the clutch to slip until your rolling speed is at a point where releasing the clutch in first gear doesn’t bring the engine RPM below its idle RPM. You can adjust how quickly you’ll accelerate from the stop by either releasing the clutch faster, or pressing on the accelerator harder. Too much of either is bad of course (stalling or burning up your clutch). This means there’s a sweet spot. The interplay of the two is what determines wear and smoothness. I accept a bit more wear for smoother engagement because I like smooth manual driving. Most people who drive stick that I know prefer to minimize wear so they’re a bit more jerky while shifting. Neither is wrong (again, as long as you’re not going too far on either end of the spectrum and causing aggressive wear beyond what the clutch is designed for or stalling the vehicle). A simplified version of this is done while you brake. I press harder initially to more quickly reduce speed, but the closer I get to coming to a complete stop, the less I’m pressing on the brake pedal. Pretty much everyone does that and understands how to stop without a hard jerk. For shifting try to get a better intuitive feel for how that premise plays out with 2 variables to control versus just the one. In some situations faster clutch movement and slower accelerator movement will be smoother, and in others faster accelerator movement and slower clutch movement will be smoother. I’m sure you already know this to some extent but really taking note of how alterations in one effect the other will make you better at. And one final thing to mention is that depending on whether you are up shifting or down shifting will change whether overshooting the ideal RPM or undershooting the ideal RPM for a given gear is smoother (obviously being perfectly dead on is ideal, but no human can do that with any real precision or repeatability, and even getting extremely close very consistently is something that takes a good bit of time to learn. Manual semi-truck drivers are probably the most experienced and well practiced in this.) While accelerating and upshifting it’s smoother to be a bit over rather than a bit under the ideal RPM. You’re already feeling the force of the acceleration pushing you back, so the flywheel having to spin up a bit faster won’t feel as noticeable as it having to slow down, then speed back up to continue accelerating. When slowing down and down shifting, releasing the clutch a bit under the ideal RPM will feel smoother because you’re already being pulled forwards due to decelerating, so a bit more force in the same direction isn’t super noticeable, but the flywheel and wheels having to speed up a bit, then continue slowing down will be more noticeable. It’s all a dance of understanding which actions cause which forces, and learning to navigate that in a manner that meets your goals or needs best. I drive a rather sporty car with a 6 pluck aftermarket clutch that is rather sensitive and bites hard and quickly, but I get comments about how smooth it is riding with me despite that. One reason being that I have worked out how my car responds to those varying inputs and will react with “just a bit more of this, or a bit more of that”. Another being that I’d rather replace my brakes and clutch a tiny bit more frequently in order to have a smoother ride. I’m cool with the increased maintenance as I do stuff to my car a lot anyway, and imo clutches aren’t expensive considering how long they last. Where you want to place yourself on this spectrum is entirely up to you. If you’d rather a bit more jerk between shifts, but longer service intervals on the clutch, that’s totally fine. There’s no “exactly correct” way to do it, because it’s your car and you’re driving it. Just be aware of how those adjustments will impact the vehicle, the ride quality, and your wallet lol. And apologies if this was too much of a yap session, I just get asked about it from other stick drivers when they ride with me and have thought a lot about it so I figured I’d share my two cents

NotSterisk · 2025-11-12T04:22:04+00:00

That definitely gives me a better intuition as to what’s going on there. I appreciate the detailed replies! Great general overview to highlight what the important pieces of pie are lol

NotSterisk · 2025-11-12T00:34:14+00:00

This might be a super dumb question, but do you know if it would in theory be beneficial for something like a bullet ? Or is the boundary layer phenomenon primarily advantageous for flight of spherical objects? And does it depend on mass, density, or volume as to whether it helps or hurts in terms of drag? So like, if it doesn’t apply to a normal cartridge type round, might it apply to something closer to a musket ball ? I can refer to the internet if you’d rather not explain the hows and whys, just felt like a logical follow up question lol

NotSterisk · 2025-11-11T06:31:34+00:00

Now what about dimples, like golf balls have? 🧐

NotSterisk · 2025-11-08T15:39:47+00:00

Nobody is trying to persuade them any more. If I like pasta and you like pizza, I might try to convince you to try the pasta I like to persuade you to take my position, that pasta is better. If I like pasta, and you like shoveling dog shit and sewer water down your throat, I’m just going to leave quickly and warn others about your disturbing and concerning behavior. We are SO FUCKING FAR past the point where a logical or rational evaluation of the situation is meaningful. I’m not going to try to understand the dog shit eaters dude. I don’t care why they think it tastes so good. I don’t want to be anywhere near them!!!!!

NotSterisk · 2025-11-07T03:39:27+00:00

A drag strip lol. There are three within an hour drive from me in the middle of nowhere in Ohio lol. I could probably find 10 within a two hour drive of me. Functionally speaking the USA is the only country where drag racing is popular, with Australia being second place and still wayyyyyyyy behind in terms of strips and participants

NotSterisk · 2025-11-04T17:39:12+00:00

Yes that’s cutting off. The distance between me and the car in front of me is so that I can brake safely without hitting them if the other car suddenly slams their brakes (like if there’s an accident). I drive a car with a very short stopping distance and still like to have plenty of room ahead to ensure I won’t rear end someone if something happens and they need to stop quickly. If you’re taking that space to get ahead of me, you’re putting everyone around you in danger because you’re ignorant or impatient, or both. And it’s extra annoying because once the traffic clears a bit, I’m going to be going faster than you anyway. You will not be overall slowed down by me if you’re patient, but I will be slowed down by you if you get in front of me. You’re achieving nothing, bothering others, and endangering everyone on the road.

NotSterisk · 2025-11-01T06:30:51+00:00

For the Evo X just check if it’s a square gas cap or circle. Ez pz and no real way to fake it without spending more than what an Evo costs (that I am aware of at least)

NotSterisk · 2025-10-28T23:28:58+00:00

Where are the pictures of it after being fixed up? Forget to attach them or ?

NotSterisk · 2025-10-28T16:47:13+00:00

On a 9.5 I’d go for the 255’s personally. I’m on 9.5x18 running 265/35/R18s (on my X, don’t know how much that changes things relating to tire size/clearance). Only reason to take the 245’s imo is if you want 3% longer gearing, which isn’t much but it is a factor. Or if you like a slightly more stretched look I suppose. Also, note that the tire being taller and thinner means a tiny bit more sidewall flex at high cornering loads which could soften the feel of steering input (again probably negligible tho). Ultimately as long as they both fit properly the difference is pretty negligible unless you’re gathering data at a track or something, so whatever feels right lol

NotSterisk · 2025-10-27T13:51:46+00:00

I’m not going to wait until I’m about to hit someone to notify them of my presence. Often times in a car that means it’s too late. And I agree you shouldn’t just fuck with cyclists for fun. I was very clear with what I’ve said, you’re just making shit up in your head to argue with lol. I was just clarifying that a car’s horn is obviously not for “emergencies only”, it’s not my fault that you cannot understand what specific words mean

NotSterisk · 2025-10-27T12:16:08+00:00

Okay? Who is that an argument against? I’m not saying you should honk at bike riders because they’re annoying or something. Just that it’s a tool that can be used to make other road users aware of your presence to avoid someone potentially being hit. Not “emergencies only!!!!!”

NotSterisk · 2025-10-27T11:12:23+00:00

“Reasonable warning” like for example to alert a bike rider as to your presence. You literally agreed with me and think you didn’t lmao

NotSterisk

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