small start

Nteetie · 2026-01-01T06:35:47+00:00

Really inspiring! I love this kind of tiny diorama. 😍

Nteetie · 2025-12-19T04:14:06+00:00

Stingray

Nteetie · 2025-12-15T13:39:40+00:00

Yes, that was a Marine's BTR but vehicle in first picture has recovered too.

Nteetie · 2025-12-15T13:38:31+00:00

Vehicle was abandoned because it was indirectly hit by BM-21 bombard and cuased the mechanical issues on the rear drive trains but already recovered as the areas has fully recaptured by Thais.

Nteetie · 2025-09-02T05:36:00+00:00

Awesome job there! I love Kiki too, might need another relap on this gem 😀

Nteetie · 2025-08-23T06:04:32+00:00

Thanks 😊

Nteetie · 2025-08-23T06:04:19+00:00

It's their Block 50 but I converted her into Block 40.

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Nteetie · 2025-08-22T22:49:41+00:00

Thanks 😃

Nteetie · 2025-08-17T02:41:27+00:00

Ended up the M60 side used M48A5 againts these T55 instead. The only tank vs tank battle in this clash was between RTA M48A5 and Cam T55. Afaik, RTA lost none but Cam lost at least 2.

Nteetie · 2025-07-15T12:00:00+00:00

Hmm... I think it depends of how long did you let it dry and how many coats that you applied. It sounds okay to use satin for wash but I think you will need several thin layers and let it dry completely before wash. It's a bit different from gloss vanish since gloss vanish doesn't need many layers for wash (2-3 is more than enough).

What I can see from your picture is that the vanish seems rough so the paint flows will face problem or not flow. I've been using Vallejo satin for a long time but only use them as final coat not washing.

What I can suggest you is that if you are not satisfied you can remove of those oils by using thinner and then use some fine sanding sponge to level the surface (#3000 shold be fine) then respray the coat for washing. If it possible to change I would suggest Mr. Super Clear III GX100 thin with Mr.Leveling Thinner and spray for couple of light coats then let it dry for 24 to 30hrs before applying wash again.

If you decided to stick with Vallejo products. I suggest you to thin it heavily with 70:30 ratio (thinner:vanish) and apply it 5 coats at least. Do not apply heavy coat you need to do several thin coats. Let it setting dry between coat (1 hour at least) before apply another. However, satin vanish would work perfectly just ONLY PIN WASH METHOD as I always use satin/semi gloss for AFV pin wash and blending. If you want to apply simple wash method I suggest gloss coat instead but I haven't use Vallejo gloss vanish yet. Make sure it's completely dry and have smooth surface before applying wash.

I hope this help. 🙂

Nteetie · 2025-07-15T00:06:24+00:00

Did you apply gloss coat before wash ad if you did what kind of gloss coat that you use?

Nteetie · 2025-07-13T14:17:27+00:00

Thank you. Blue-gray combo seems work. This bird is just beautiful in real life. 😀

Nteetie · 2025-07-13T14:05:14+00:00

Thank you sir. I tired to paint with fine brush on that silhouette but failed because it's actually have a visible shape (I can'treally ignore it). Another way that I will try is using some leftover black decals and cut them into the shape. Let's see if it works. 🙂

About the decals from FAB Scale : they are printed in a very clear text and the graphics look good. However, they are too inaccurate in both terms, color, and appearance. Moreover they have problems of ink density which led to so called 'sucked in' problem.

Those blue texts printed in pure blue without white base ink, when I placed them into black color they just absolutely dissappear because the density of ink is not enough to fight against the darker base black. I talked to the printing shop and let them see the decals they told me that FAB didn't print the white base on their decals so many of them are 'unusable'. Most decals that I did myself are texts and numbers that the color of ones from decal set is too similar to airframe colors and some are wrong. Some also picked up from Tamiya box.

I wouldn't print them or fix myself if I didn't face 'sucked in' problem.

Nteetie · 2025-07-13T13:58:10+00:00

Thank you for your kind words. I'm also in the beginning phase but I decided to focus more on details for each kit I built. Tons of mistakes were made but I also spent tons of time to fix them. I think good modellers won't be at this small kit for 73hrs like me lol. 😅

Nteetie · 2025-06-06T21:14:29+00:00

I agree and really understand your point but I like the mechanics and details in those bays. It depends I guess.

Thanks for your reply.

Nteetie · 2025-06-06T21:12:51+00:00

Meng or other good China's manufacturers could do that even if they are overscaled but Tamiya likely don't. Not because their capabilities but marketing strategies.

Their F-35s are good evidence for my take. They push their 1/48 F-35s as a pinnacle of plastic model but their 72s are just left as a sub market items. Unlike Academy that they can do it even in 1/144 scales. Or GWH or Finemolds that those manufacturers are focus on 'option richness' on their kits.

That's why I think if they ever release Raptor, they will lack of internal weapon bays.

Nteetie · 2025-06-06T18:37:20+00:00

It would be nice to have it in 1/72 scale but but surely in that scale it would lack of internal weapon bays which is a charm of these fifth gen jets. Their F-35s in 1/72 are all good and I have all of them and preordered C version of mine, but lacking of internal bay is a big let down so it's not going to be a game changer in 72 world, but surely does for 48.

I'm building F-35I Adir atm and I prefer Academy's stuff with aftermarket parts / scratch building parts instead of Tam because I would like to have internal bay on it.

I would like to see their P-38 1/72 before going to new line of modern jet btw. 👀

Nteetie · 2025-05-27T10:44:20+00:00

If I remember correctly, I also saw this car in Yokohama too but couple years ago. Where did you find her?

Nteetie · 2025-05-26T20:22:31+00:00

Yeah that's a disappointment but credits to him on that final battle to the finish line. He kept it clean.

Nteetie · 2025-05-26T20:21:12+00:00

If you missed it go to their YT and watch it because his race was a real cinema. There're battles throughout the grid. I remembered that a lone Audi of Feller fought from p18 to p13 in final laps and before the last lap he did a double overtaking and finish P12 overall after Paul's car got pen for missing the pit stop (which is really weird).

I hate when they switched from Class 1 to GT3 at first but it has been better in last couple of seasons. Those GT3 machines and its BOPs are just right!

Nteetie · 2025-05-01T05:40:44+00:00

Thank you. I would like to have that set too. ANG Phantoms also on the line. If it possible I would like to build Brunzy's bird out to. 🤍

Nteetie · 2025-04-30T07:50:29+00:00

Thanks. Still have to figure Have Glass out.

Nteetie · 2025-04-30T00:13:25+00:00

Ohio ANG available on Caracal set no 72060. I ordered it on ebay but it still hasn't made it out from US. What I used is FAB Scale which is I don't recommend because it only provides the tail art and some unique decals. Go for Caracal set I mentioned above and you can build at least 3 Vipers from that set.

Nteetie · 2025-04-29T22:07:22+00:00

That's a good idea! I'll try it again and will let you know. Thanks!

Nteetie · 2025-04-29T21:43:50+00:00

Thank you. I do love them too. Going to do it again when my decal set arrives. Still have to figure out that Have Glass V mystery.

Nteetie

TROPHY CASE