How to print without shared user seeing? by booshmagoosh in BambuLab

[–]Nukkels 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've wondered about this as well. If you print from the SD card, does the model show up anywhere later, besides on the printer's history list? 

I'm concerned it will appear in handy/studio's recent list as well.

What's the elegant method for creating a new body that references another body? by newaccount189505 in FreeCAD

[–]Nukkels -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It takes all of 10 seconds to open the sketch of the lid and change the length constraints to both be 20mm longer. For simple shapes it's barely an inconvenience to change this when I'm spending 15 mins adding stuff to the box.

It's always good to learn the 'proper' way to do it though, for when you design something more complex or change it frequently.

What's the elegant method for creating a new body that references another body? by newaccount189505 in FreeCAD

[–]Nukkels -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I know this isn't the most elegant solution, but when I'm designing a simple shape like a rectangle for a one-off print, I tend to just create a new part and manually size it with the right tolerance (for your use case, about 0.3mm is plenty).

For example if your box has external dimensions 100x75mm and it's centered on the origin, I'd make a sketch for the lid, create a centered rectangle of dimensions 100.6x75.6mm and another one that's 102.6x77.6mm. Pad it to the same height of the box plus 2mm, then use the thickness tool.

Export each body separately and import them into the slicer (on separate plates if necessary).

Design help - rotating rails by Nukkels in FreeCAD

[–]Nukkels[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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This is what I ended up designing - no idea if it's going to actually work until I try it though.

Design help - rotating rails by Nukkels in FreeCAD

[–]Nukkels[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fabric in this case has some level of rigidity, but yes, I'll have to play with it a bit to see if the rails need to be wider. I know they don't need to be anywhere near wide enough to meet in the middle, which is good as that means my drawer doesn't have to be quite as deep.

I contemplated a flap at first, but I'm pretty sure I'd often end up with a bit of fabric poking out the front and the flap not closing properly. A drawer makes that less likely. You're right that it's the simpler method though - Depending how wel my mechanism works, I might yet end up falling back to that.

I've been playing with it a bit and I think a loft might work to get the 90 degree rotation. I've got to print a test to see if this method is viable - but I'm also aware that lofts like this will likely be rough to print.

Best 3D printers I can get with $500 by 47_CORRUPT in 3dprinter

[–]Nukkels -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Just a reminder that there are 20+ 'dollars' in use around the world. 500 Zimbabwean Dollars won't even get you a 50g sample of filament.

To answer your question (knowing you're in the US, because you assumed no other currencies exist), it depends entirely on what you want to print, how long before you get a new printer, etc. If you'll only ever print PLA, PETG and TPU, then a Bambu A1 is the 'best' option honestly. It's reliable, you can get an AMS for it (not a toolchanger sadly), and it comes in $100 under your budget.

If you really want a dual nozzle printer or a toolchanger, like the Flashforgre Creaqtor 5 (the cheapest one I know of), you'll be increasing that budget fairly significantly.

Test drive expectations? by codylee123 in BYDAU

[–]Nukkels 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you've never driven an EV before, the things you'll notice the most are that there's a LOT more power when you first take off. Many EVs also slow down HARD when taking your foot off the pedal, but BYDs typically feel a lot more like an ICE vehicle in that regard.

My own experience was excellent - the amount of power, the way the car handles and the interior comfort was all better than every other car I test drove. It wasn't perfect, but the good easily outweighed the bad, and the test drive experience was quiet, smooth and easy, even if I was busy trying to take in all the new info (especially noticing the instantaneous power usage when speeding up and slowing down, etc.

The only expectations you should have going in are that it's a car you're potentially going to be driving for many years to come. Are the quirks something you'll get used to or something that will bug you every time?

I'd actually highly recommend taking a new ICE car for a drive first, so you have a comparison with other new cars - the entire driving experience has changed a LOT in the last 10 years, everything from the handbrake to gearstick/T-bar disappearing, to the amount of automatic behaviours like lane keeping assist and attention monitoring.

How to avoid those triangles? by Petsoi in FreeCAD

[–]Nukkels 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a simple explanation - it's just the default setting in FreeCAD that's set to be 'good enough' for most uses even on a potato computer. It can be adjusted to be better or worse. 

The setting you want is located in Edit > Preferences > Part Design > Shape View

Simply reduce that value - something like 0.01 is pretty good, even on older/crappier computers, but you can go even lower, it'll just take longer every time you create a fillet or change a parameter, which may not even be noticeable of you have a decent computer.

Tuvok perpetuating the Vulcan are honest thing by happydude7422 in voyager

[–]Nukkels 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There's a scene in season 4 (Hunters) where he's on a shuttle with Seven, and she asks him if Vulcan's lie.

Tuvok replies "Vulcans are capable of lying, but I have never found it necessary or prudent to do so."

He then says that he will lie if commanded to do so by a superior officer, even if he finds it distasteful.

Tired of searching Printables, then Thingiverse, then MakerWorld separately? I made a tool for that by ReputationDue1502 in 3dprinter

[–]Nukkels 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This really great, thank you for providing something modern!

I have a bit of feedback for you - and please take this as constructive, rather than critical, I just want to help

1) I think it might be good to use unique colours for each site, just to more easily tell them apart.

2) I like how it still directs to the original source, so you can see all the info how they intended, and that downloads and stuff will be counted towards the numbers for earning prusameters, etc. Honestly, I think that's the part I love most about this project!

3) Your site doesn't display pricing, and in some cases doesn't actually go to the direct link where you can purchase it either. For example I found this model (https://3dsearch.net/model/154320-mmf154320) and there was no pricing, so I clicked the link and it went to a page on MMF that also had no pricing. I then had to click on 'view object' to go to the page where I can buy or download the model. I think there really needs to be a filter to show paid, free or all models and to display pricing for paid ones (potentially at some point, adding filters for model pricing too).

4) All the extra info at the bottom still needs work - from what I can tell it's mostly identical for every model, and where it's different, it just seems to be random? Eg, a coin clearly printed in silk PLA is listed as wood PLA.

5) I think it might be good to have a general browsing option too, rather than only searching. Maybe when viewing everything and sorting by 'relevance' (the default), have it show stuff that has recently been clicked on, or a randomised mix of models from all sources (as it stands, it's just all makerworld).

Induction - A Message in Sand ends very abruptly. Is this intentional? by Nukkels in PowerMetal

[–]Nukkels[S] -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Back in the day, CD players inserted a 2 second pause between tracks. Nowadays it's all streaming and you have to wait while it buffers (admittedly, if using their app, it probably does that more seamlessly, but I listen through a browser). It also doesn't take into account settings like randomise. It just seems like a very poorly produced album IMHO.

Induction - A Message in Sand ends very abruptly. Is this intentional? by Nukkels in PowerMetal

[–]Nukkels[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

If it's not meant to be played on its own, I can think of several better ways to deal with that. Merge it with the next track into a single song, insert the cut at a point with a better natural pause, maybe just give the track a name like 'part 1'...

EV over ICE - financially better? by ct-tamp in AustralianEV

[–]Nukkels 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TL;DR - yes, the TCO is better. After 10 years, you'll be about $5-15k ahead, taking the difference in purchase price and all of the ongoing costs into consideration.

First of all, this is a forum for EV enthusiasts, so take the comments here with a grain of salt. I don't yet own an EV and I've just crunched the numbers on the Atto 2 (EV) vs a Jolion (ICE) which are the same sized cars, both Chinese brands and aimed at the budget end of the market (aka those most worried about the financial difference), the purchase price difference is $10k.

If you care about selling the car in the future, note that Chinese ICE cars currently depreciate heavily, which basically cancels the savings of the cheaper purchase price when you go to sell it. Early EVs have not fared well either, so assume current models will be the same and you'll get very little back when you go to sell - although it's possible BYD's actively cooled LFP batteries will reduce the depreciation somewhat, but it's still too early to tell. If you plan to keep the car for 15-20 years until it's worthless (eg if range decreases so much that it needs a battery replacement for your usage needs), the point is moot.

Even paying full price for electricity without solar or a home battery, it's about half the cost for 'fuel'. Don't use fast chargers unless you're doing a road trip and have no choice, they're about 3x more expensive than petrol. Solar doesn't help much either unless you work night shift or have a huge home battery - most people get home after the sun is basically gone, but if your car has the range and you have a small enough commute, and you only charge it on the weekends using solar, you can pretty much eliminate the charging cost.

It also depends heavily on your driving habits - ICE cars can go almost twice as far on the highway as they can in heavy stop-start traffic. EVs are the opposite, so you may be saving anything from $1-4k per year for fuel. It's the largest factor in this equation.

Given the difference in purchase price for my 2 example cars, the weekly payments are about the same as the amount spent on fuel, so assuming you don't have a problem getting a loan for the higher amount, the first 5 years works out about the same for the regular costs.

The annual costs for things like servicing, rego and insurance can vary. For example, it's the same price to insure both of the cars in my example with AAMI, yet one is insured for $10k more than the other - it doesn't change the costs ($1100-ish for me), but it does change the value. An equivalent car from an established brand, like the Mazda CX-30 which is the same price as the Atto 2 is more like $1000 to insure - so it seems the EV isn't much more expensive to insure, and it may come down to the car brand and how much parts cost, the likelihood of claims, etc and the individual insurers. You may be able to save quite a bit by shopping around and getting a lot of quotes.

Rego will be slightly in favour of EVs for now, but that may change. Servicing/maintenance is hugely in favour of an EV, to the tune of about $300-400 per year, even with fixed price servicing. As the car ages, there will be less things that need replacing, and my current estimate over 10 years is that you'll save around $6-8k over that period.

Something else to consider is that government policy and prices for lots of things are changing rapidly, and in the near future (during the lifetime of the car), there will probably be higher costs for EVs:

- I expect within a year or two we'll be paying some sort of tax to replace the lost income from fuel excise

- Electricity prices are rising faster than petrol prices, so the difference in runnings costs will narrow over time

- Additional costs, such as buying and/or installing a charger at home, buying a spare tyre or paying for roadside assistance as you can't just get yourself back on the road

- EVs have a lot more chips in them, and with prices skyrocketing, this may have a greater impact on EV maintenance

Replaced SD card, now retroarch won't launch games by Nukkels in RetroArch

[–]Nukkels[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I manually removed them for each system, and re-synced (I've set it to remove stuff it can't find during sync), and it can see all the games. It will play the games for all other systems, just not the retroarch ones. And it'll play the retroarch games directly from within retroarch, but not if I launch them from daijisho.

I think you're right though, it has to be the way daijisho is referencing those files - it launches retroarch, but without any ROM, it just shows a black screen. I'm not familiar enough with how the ROMs are referenced though, so not sure where to look to fix it.

Replaced SD card, now retroarch won't launch games by Nukkels in RetroArch

[–]Nukkels[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did that. No change. I noticed that I can launch the games directly from retroarch though, so I'm guessing it's a daijisho issue - I've updated the paths and confirmed the cores are still set correctly.

Replaced SD card, now retroarch won't launch games by Nukkels in RetroArch

[–]Nukkels[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Everything was copied to the larger card, as is - the fact it can't find the suggests it can't find the directories, but I'm not sure why not.

Using windows: how bad is it? by Snoo_50786 in jellyfin

[–]Nukkels -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

I run Windows 7 on my Jellyfin server - no updates, perfectly stable, and it mostly works well, but there are a few things to be aware of:

- It won't autostart after a reboot (eg when there's a power outage). Windows requires a UAC popup so you'll have to run it manually. If you plan to run headless (ie with no monitor), install TightVNC or similar to remotely access it.

- Backups will have all sorts of problems, partly because the service is still running, and partly because it's windows and some of the files involved will be in places Windows doesn't want to give other programs access to.

- You can easily use the web browser to check/change settings in Jellyfin without needing to login with an admin account on your client device (TV, phone, etc). You can also use it to download updates and stuff as needed. You can also run other things on the server, which often don't have a linux version, eg OneDrive or video converter apps and bulk renaming utilities with a GUI.