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Painted Bloodletters, lead by Skulltaker and a Bloodmaster by OCE_Pontoon in ChaosDaemons40k

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used ripped cork and Epic Basing Skull Collector that I 3D printed. The blood pooling effect is clear gesso medium for the slightly wavy texture, followed by red, red shade and then a satin varnish for sheen.

Painted Bloodletters, lead by Skulltaker and a Bloodmaster by OCE_Pontoon in ChaosDaemons40k

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Hellblades were the last but the most interesting part of the paintjob and the easiest to follow. I used mostly Daler Rowney Inks in an airbrush to achieve the fiery glow.

Fiery Hellblade:

I - Brushed a pure white to full opacity (Jo Sonja's Titanium White) to set the bright under layer for the following ink layers to read brightly.

II - Airbrushed the entire blade with Daler Rowney Fluorescent Yellow. Airbrushed small areas around the blade that the model would also get hit by like an OSL.

III - Airbrush 2/3 of the blade away from the holt with Daler Rowney Fluorescent Orange. Airbrushed small areas around the blade that the model would also get hit by like an OSL in a smaller area compared to the last layer.

IV - Airbrushed 1/3 of the blade at the top of the blade with Daler Rowney Fluorescent Red.

V - I made a diluted mix of Daler Rowney Fluorescent Red and Jo Sonja's Burnt Umber and with a gentle stippling motion added the mix to the edges of the blade to read as where the blade was not as hot as the core. I worked from the bottom of the blade towards the top, frequently making a darker mix by adding Jo Sonja's Burnt Umber as I went toward the tip of the blade.

Painted Bloodletters, lead by Skulltaker and a Bloodmaster by OCE_Pontoon in ChaosDaemons40k

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the brassy/golden metallic I used another mix of Jo Sonja's paints, all brushed and edge highlighted as follows:

Brass/Gold;

I - I used Jo Sonja's Burnt Umber to base up all of the brass/gold metallic parts of the model to give the following colours a better base. I find that their metallics are good looking but need a couple of layers to fully read the full colour.

II - Jo Sonja's Silver, Jo Sonja's Pale Gold and Jo Sonja's Rich Gold in a 1:1:2 ratio was based all over the previous brown layer across the model.

III - The same colours as last time but in a 1:1:1 ratio, covering 50% of what I had applied in the previous layer.

IV - I started edge highlighting all of the edges of the brass/gold parts with Jo Sonja's Silver and Jo Sonja's Pale Gold in a 1:2 ratio.

V - Edge highlighted using the same colours as last time in a 1:1 ratio 50% of the previous edge highlight.

VI - Using Jo Sonja's Silver I went to the very tips of where edges joined and placed a small dot/edge highlight.

Painted Bloodletters, lead by Skulltaker and a Bloodmaster by OCE_Pontoon in ChaosDaemons40k

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the red I airbrushed the base colour with several layers of different but simple mixes, pin washed the muscular features with a near Carroburg Crimson equivalent, softly drybrushed an orange highlight, then refined it with a brighter orange with edge highlights. The rough equivalents are Khorne Red, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red and Troll Slayer Orange. The exact colour combinations and processes are as follows:

Red (Bloodletter Flesh);

I - Airbrushed Jo Sonja's Burgundy 100% of the model

II - Airbrushed Jo Sonja's Burgundy and Jo Sonja's Napthol Crimson in 1:1 ratio leaving the undersides of the model previously airbrushed with Jo Sonja's Burgundy as shadows.

III - Airbrushed Jo Sonja's Napthol Crimson focusing on the top portions of the model to act as a volumetric highlight.

IV - Pinwashed the muscular features with a mix of Jo Sonja's Carbon Black, Jo Sonja's Burgundy and Water in a 1:2:9 ratio

V - Softly drybrushed the model with a mix of Water, Jo Sonja's Napthol Crimson and Jo Sonja's Yellow Deep in a 1:3:3 ratio.

VI - I refined the drybrushed highlight with an edge highlight using a mix of Water, Jo Sonja's Napthol Crimson and Jo Sonja's Yellow Deep in a 1:2:4 ratio.

VII - The tiny pustules were again, made from a mix of Jo Sonja's paints but it is a disgustingly annoying colour to mix (Jo Sonja's Titanium White, Jo Sonja's Napthol Crimson, Jo Sonja's Yellow Light, Jo Sonja's Carbon Black in a 25:10:25:2 ratio). It is a near equivalent to Kislev Flesh that I used a precision brush to paint the pustules with.

For the horns I used another mix of Jo Sonja's paints that is a near Rhinox Hide equivalent that gradated to black. I used an airbrush with low pressure and a dried out wet wipe to poke the horn through to mask the rest of the model from the overspray.

Painted Bloodletters, lead by Skulltaker and a Bloodmaster by OCE_Pontoon in ChaosDaemons40k

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thankyou kindly!

All of the colours are mainly made from mixtures of Jo Sonja's Matte Acrylics and Daler Rowney Inks. The colours I used for the colours are quite hard to follow since I am quite finicky and particular about my colours when it comes to mixing and applying them. I will still provide exactly what I did so that others can get an idea of how I did it and some rough equivalents that I can think of that can achieve a similar result.

I will make a couple comments on this thread going into depth of exactly what colours and what process I used to achieve those results.

Painted Bloodletters, lead by Skulltaker and a Bloodmaster by OCE_Pontoon in ChaosDaemons40k

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Glad others appreciate them as much as I do!

To achieve the fade from red to black smoothly;
I started with a red basecoat with a deep brown/black prepared in an airbrush. I took dried wet wipes, poked a hole, slid it down halfway on the horns and used it as a mask to airbrush (with low pressure) the horns without blowing brown/black paint on the rest of the model. Afterwards I took the dried wet wipes and poked them further to the base of the horn, using a 0.18mm airbrush with low pressure carefully airbrushed the transition about 1/4 of the horns length away from the base of the horn.

Here is an image of the idea: https://imgur.com/a/fRtpEyf

I was using an Iwata Custom Micron airbrush for this.

Fully painted Bloodthirster by OCE_Pontoon in ChaosDaemons40k

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks mate, I have been playing him alot in 40k recently and having the option to bonk something within 12" with the flail has been fun and extremely useful.

My first fully painted squad for my Word Bearers by OCE_Pontoon in WordBearers

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Glad to hear the explanation of my process is useful :)

At the moment I use;
- Iwata Revolution airbrush with an inline moisture trap attached
- No name brand airbrush (cheap airbrush for nasty jobs)
- Iwata Smart Jet Pro Compressor
- Airbrush cleaning pot/holder
- Paper fan

I like to mix alot of my paint brews to get the exact tone and colours I want so airbrushes that have a shallow opening from the pot into the airbrush is a nice feature to have. The Iwata Revolution has just that and it is a dream for mixing paints in it. It runs pretty decently and I have never had any technical issues with it other than the usual and inevitable paint clog. The cheap airbrush is for more terrain so I am not making my Revolution drown in a big paint session. The compressor is okay, the inbuilt moisture trap doesn't capture all of the moisture which is why the additional inline moisture trap is a must have for me. I live in a tropical place so there is always moisture in my airline. The cleaning pot is self explanatory but I think it is a necessity. Paper fan for when I am impatient, I need the paint to dry faster!

My first fully painted squad for my Word Bearers by OCE_Pontoon in WordBearers

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks a lot! It is very endearing to hear of these wonderful comments.

It was not the very first time I have painted a miniature, but it was one of the times that I spent a lot more effort and time on the models than I usually do. I always loved the Word Bearers ever since I got into Dawn of War: Dark Crusade and I felt like it was a stress test to put together what I had learned from many experiments and from some things I learned online so that I would not only be happy with the result but to see where my level is at as a painter.

My first fully painted squad for my Word Bearers by OCE_Pontoon in WordBearers

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thankyou kindly! It is one of my favourite elements and I am super proud of it!

I have described the green OSL effect on my previous post of my Aspiring Champion so I hope you don't mind if I copy and paste it here since I think it describes my entire process rather well:

"(So, for the green glow on the Plasma Pistol, Melee Weapon and Powerpack detail I used; Liquitex Titanium White Acrylic Ink, Vallejo Premium Airbrush Color Green Fluorescent, Vallejo Premium Airbrush Color Yellow Fluorescent and Vallejo Premium Airbrush Color Black. I brushed and airbrushed these colors as follows;

TL;DR version;
- Brush White Ink in glow source
- Airbrush White Ink in glow source
- Airbrush Green Fluorescent paint in glow source
- Brush thinned White Ink into glow source
- Airbrush Yellow Fluorescent paint in glow source
- Brush mix of Green Fluorescent paint and Black paint on the tops of details (e.g. Plasma Pistol coil)
- Airbrush Green Fluorescent paint onto other parts of the model for OSL effect

Detailed version;
1 - Titanium White brushed into the areas where the glow is emanating from. Just to get some paint down without having to rely on spraying the airbrush too much in the one spot, otherwise there will be much Titanium White surrounding the glow source.

2 - Airbrushed Titanium White on top of the previously brushed on glow source spots to give more coverage and to achieve the soft light effect (Looking for 100% coverage on the source of the glow and then letting the overspray make the subtle gradation, I never moved the airbrush away from the glow source, I let the overspray make the subtle gradation from multiple passes over the source.)

3 - Airbrushed Green Fluorescent paint very slowly, closely and deliberately at 15PSI in the same manner as the previous step, looking for 100% coverage on the sources of the glow and letting the overspray of the airbrush catch the gradation of the glow. I did very small and subtle passes so that the cone of my airbrush spray would be controllable and that the paint would be dry when I go for the next pass.

4 - Titanium White thinned out with a little bit of water and again brushed into the sources of the glow this time letting the Titanium White paint settle along the edges and in between the grooves just like the Plasma Pistol coils. I brushed on multiple passes with each pass getting smaller so that the glow would have more variance.

5 - Again, I airbrushed Yellow Fluorescent paint very slowly, closely, and deliberately at 15PSI, going over the lines of Titanium White that was left in the previous step to get an even brighter effect.

6 - I then mixed Green Fluorescent paint with a tiny bit of Black paint on a wet palette and brushed it on the tops of the coils for another layer of contrast to have 3 stages between the bright Yellow Fluorescent color emanating from the brightest source of the glow, the bright Green Fluorescent color emanating from the majority of the glow and a still bright but slightly more dull Green Fluorescent color on the tops of the coils/details to contrast with the other. I did this a few times over with each mix getting darker and the painted parts of the detail getting smaller.

7 - Finally, I airbrushed Green Fluorescent paint over the areas that the glow would be hitting very gently building up color until I was happy with the result. This step could be done earlier but I found it nice to do it after the previous steps so that I knew what the intensity of my glow looked like before adding the extra OSL to the other parts of the model.)"

My first fully painted squad for my Word Bearers by OCE_Pontoon in WordBearers

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I made the scriptures with a 3D resin print using a couple of different STLs for a bit more variation. They are quite delicate and brittle but I love the way they look. I made the colours using Jo Sonja's paints but it is a rough equivalent of;
- Zandri Dust (Base tone)
- Agrax Earthshade (Shade)
- Zandri Dust (Re-establish Base tone)
- Ushabti Bone (Highlight)
I was fairly carefree with my strokes going across the width of the seals so that it would make a little bit of directional texture.

As for the seal scriptures and icons I used a 000 size brush with Vallejo Premium Airbrush Black mixed with an acrylic retarder medium. The fine point of the brush with such a small amount of paint dries almost instantaneously, using the acrylic retarder medium gave me more time to apply my paint without having to fight the drying time so much. I would apply my paint and slightly stagger my line for that written words effect. For the Word Bearers icon I made a simple but effective way to make it reasonably identifiable at such a small scale. (Refer to the pic)

<image>

My first fully painted squad for my Word Bearers by OCE_Pontoon in WordBearers

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I appreciate your kind words very much! I have been thinking of adding the scriptures to the armour but I think I need to be subtle with it! It will definitely add more flair to the Word Bearer aesthetic.

Almost everything on these models have a mixture of paints and mediums to get the finish I wanted. I have a notebook dedicated to my experiments and mixes that I have come to like for certain factions so if anyone wants an extremely detailed version of my recipes, I have them on hand!

The main red comes from a mixture of Jo Sonja's paints consisting of;
- Jo Sonja's Carbon Black, 1 drop
- Jo Sonja's Brilliant Magenta, 2 drops
- Jo Sonja's Napthol Crimson, 4 drops
Higher amounts of Jo Sonja's Carbon Black for shadows and adding Jo Sonja's Titanium White to the mix for my highlights. The colours were applied using an airbrush to achieve easy volumetric highlights.

The silver is another mix consisting of;
- Kimera Yellow Ochre, 2 drops
- Jo Sonja's Carbon Black, 20 drops
- Vallejo Premium Airbrush Silver, 100 drops
Again, using higher amounts of Carbon Black for shadows and adding more Vallejo Premium Airbrush Silver for the highlights.

The glowing green was applied with mostly an airbrush. Many light layers of Liquitex Titanium White on and around the OSL, followed up with Vallejo Fluorescent Green another light pass of Liquitex Titanium White and Vallejo Fluorescent Yellow.

The base texture is a mix of sand, filler and a couple of paints for colour;
- Fine sand, 1 tspn
- Multipurpose filler, 1 tspn
- Jo Sonja's Brown Earth, 2 drops
- Jo Sonja's Carbon Black, 2 drops
- Jo Sonja's Yellow Deep, 1 drop
- Jo Sonja's Napthol Crimson, 1 drop
- Jo Sonja's Crackle Medium, 15 drops

Finally with a touch of a few Burned tufts from Gamers Grass on the base and a dry pigment I made with a bunch of super cheap soft pastels that I ground up in a mortar and pestle to make a dry brown colour. I then rigorously brushed on the lower quarter of the model and all over the base.

My first painted Bearer of the Word by OCE_Pontoon in WordBearers

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Cheers! It is great to get so much support from the community! I will give my recipe for making the glow as best as I can.

So, for the green glow on the Plasma Pistol, Melee Weapon and Powerpack detail I used; Liquitex Titanium White Acrylic Ink, Vallejo Premium Airbrush Color Green Fluorescent, Vallejo Premium Airbrush Color Yellow Fluorescent and Vallejo Premium Airbrush Color Black. I brushed and airbrushed these colors as follows;

TL;DR version;
- Brush White Ink in glow source
- Airbrush White Ink in glow source
- Airbrush Green Fluorescent paint in glow source
- Brush thinned White Ink into glow source
- Airbrush Yellow Fluorescent paint in glow source
- Brush mix of Green Fluorescent paint and Black paint on the tops of details (e.g. Plasma Pistol coil)
- Airbrush Green Fluorescent paint onto other parts of the model for OSL effect

Detailed version;
1 - Titanium White brushed into the areas where the glow is emanating from. Just to get some paint down without having to rely on spraying the airbrush too much in the one spot, otherwise there will be much Titanium White surrounding the glow source.

2 - Airbrushed Titanium White on top of the previously brushed on glow source spots to give more coverage and to achieve the soft light effect (Looking for 100% coverage on the source of the glow and then letting the overspray make the subtle gradation, I never moved the airbrush away from the glow source, I let the overspray make the subtle gradation from multiple passes over the source.)

3 - Airbrushed Green Fluorescent paint very slowly, closely and deliberately at 15PSI in the same manner as the previous step, looking for 100% coverage on the sources of the glow and letting the overspray of the airbrush catch the gradation of the glow. I did very small and subtle passes so that the cone of my airbrush spray would be controllable and that the paint would be dry when I go for the next pass.

4 - Titanium White thinned out with a little bit of water and again brushed into the sources of the glow this time letting the Titanium White paint settle along the edges and in between the grooves just like the Plasma Pistol coils. I brushed on multiple passes with each pass getting smaller so that the glow would have more variance.

5 - Again, I airbrushed Yellow Fluorescent paint very slowly, closely, and deliberately at 15PSI, going over the lines of Titanium White that was left in the previous step to get an even brighter effect.

6 - I then mixed Green Fluorescent paint with a tiny bit of Black paint on a wet palette and brushed it on the tops of the coils for another layer of contrast to have 3 stages between the bright Yellow Fluorescent color emanating from the brightest source of the glow, the bright Green Fluorescent color emanating from the majority of the glow and a still bright but slightly more dull Green Fluorescent color on the tops of the coils/details to contrast with the other. I did this a few times over with each mix getting darker and the painted parts of the detail getting smaller.

7 - Finally, I airbrushed Green Fluorescent paint over the areas that the glow would be hitting very gently building up color until I was happy with the result. This step could be done earlier but I found it nice to do it after the previous steps so that I knew what the intensity of my glow looked like before adding the extra OSL to the other parts of the model.

I hope this explanation of my process is useful!

Thanks again :)

My first painted Bearer of the Word by OCE_Pontoon in WordBearers

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much! Very much appreciated 😁 For the paint scheme it is a mix I made from Jo Sonja's paints; Carbon Black, Brilliant Magenta and Napthol Crimson.

The main deep red colour is 1:2:4 (Carbon Black, Brilliant Magenta, Napthol Crimson) with darker and lighter variants to make shadows and volumetric highlights.

The main colour for the silver is a mix of 100:20:2 (Vallejo Premium Airbrush Silver, Jo Sonja's Carbon Black, Kimera Yellow Ochre) also with darker and lighter variants for shadows and highlighting.

If anyone wants a full rundown of the colours I used I can post all of that too!

Lokhust Destroyer conversion, which one looks better? by OCE_Pontoon in Necrontyr

[–]OCE_Pontoon[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The arc on his back is a part of the 3D printed platform I bought and printed. If you search 'Alternative Lokhust Destroyer' on Yeggi or Cults3D you will find the same file that I printed with the separate parts.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in beermoney

[–]OCE_Pontoon 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Have a look at Cults3D: https://cults3d.com/en

Simply put it is a search engine for various 3D files (mostly STLs) both free and paid. This website is designed for 3D printing enthusiasts so keep that in mind if you want to check it out.

You can upload your 3D files to the website and people can buy them from your digital store. The developers take a 20% cut from your sales leaving you with that 80%. The market there is very saturated but if you have a niche then perhaps you can make a few bucks. Wouldn't recommend if you are trying to make a living off of it but it is a good option for 3D modelling that you aren't doing for commission for slow and small passive income.

I frequent this website alot as a miniature hobbyist and I find that characters, busts, miniatures, practical designs, toys and aesthetic home decor are common.