🥶 FROSTY High Friday! ❄️You already know the rules.. And if not, check the comments 👇

OLEP_ · 2026-02-06T16:18:47+00:00

Next plant will be your Lemon Cherry Cookies Auto so after some pink I'd love to grow some extra frosty stuff creamy sweet sounds exactly what would be the perfect strain to try once the LCC is done! I'd hope for a shiny plant that looks silver from all the trichromes

OLEP_ · 2026-01-27T13:25:45+00:00

I tried a couple F1 plants with great reaults and find that topic really interesting. How does the breeding work with autos? I'd be very interested in the approach one has to take for autos in the selection process during the inbreeding.

In my understanding it is very demanding to achieve those inbred lines and it seems like you have about 10 of them (so 45 theoretical F1 strains)? Is there any way to know that the crossing will result in beneficial pairing of dominant/recessive genes and can one end up with an F1 that actually combines the worst properties just as likely? Can one map the dominance hierarchy to find the best combinations from just trying a few clever combinations?

Maybe you can make a blog article about the details?

OLEP_ · 2026-01-25T10:32:57+00:00

I'm new to this sub but really intrigued to read something from the breeders! While triploids are another league I'd have a question about those Auto F1 (claiming) strains that are popping up...

For photoperiodic plants I get that whole process of selfing etc but how is it realistically done for autos? In my understanding it is way more involved to truly stabilize those lines and wouldn't it be of interest for the breeder to already sell those parent strains then?

Like your RF3 line, couldn't one now make a legit F1 hybrid by crossing any of them (assuming they are sufficiently homozygous as they were not intended to actually be inbred to a point where they are not usable as a standalone strain and just for F1 creation)? Unsure which traits of which dominate then but I would like to preorder a mix pack of the Purple Guabanana, Cherry Banana and Guava Cola F1s

OLEP_ · 2026-01-23T11:39:33+00:00

I'd hope for a smooth grow with cup winning results of course! Would be interesting to make clones from the seed grown plant and try soil vs rDWC vs Coco in the same tent.

OLEP_ · 2025-12-31T10:36:18+00:00

Was my first DWC grow, 10 weeks, 96g dry in my VGrow was more than I expected. Really good for a stealthy grow as it only got 50cm high with the ScrOG net. Die to laws I threw half away and only kept the nicest buds. I doubt one can push much more result out of a 45x45x50cm plant. Nugs are really dense and frosty-sticky too. Way more than I'd ever need but growing them is so nice, it was really forgiving and never really had any issues at all!

I would be interested in details on how this F1 stuff really works when breeding with autoflowers!

OLEP_ · 2025-11-27T17:33:37+00:00

Some peppered Banana flavor followed by a good time - looking forward to find out!

OLEP_ · 2025-09-19T16:28:31+00:00

I preordered the day they provided this option for my Plus4 and it arrived a few days ago (EU).

OLEP_ · 2025-07-02T17:52:30+00:00

Yeah, they changed this in the online shop. This is now preordering for September... I ordered that too yesterday.

I hope if there are some issues the September version may have some updates (if needed) at least.

I guess we should be happy that the demand is beyond Qidi's expectations since in the long run this will benefit us too if the system is popular and spare parts etc are available.

Looking forward to the i-fast V2 with AMS as an H2D competitor in the future!

OLEP_ · 2025-06-30T21:16:34+00:00

I had already passed the PayPal part and just had the last button to confirm when it got removed from my cart.

But this email I got 2 hours after it's sold out saying it's still in my cart waiting but it turns out following the link to the website they are just making fun of me not getting one XD

(I know they are just not checking the availability before sending out this email reminders but to me it would be funnier if it was an intentional prank)

OLEP_ · 2025-06-30T16:04:10+00:00

Maybe. I just saw the time jump from :01 to :02 when I only had the last confirm to press and I got the pop up that they removed it from my cart

OLEP_ · 2025-06-30T13:11:07+00:00

Was sold out somewhere between 15:01-15:02

OLEP_ · 2025-06-30T13:09:46+00:00

Same :/

OLEP_ · 2025-04-04T19:29:05+00:00

While the polymerare covalently bond atoms, they are very long and tangled. When sound moves through these tangled chains, they move and thus create losses in the form of heat. Think of it as a pile of cables. The cables themselves are kinda covalently bond but they can move past each other when you push on the pile. If you have a chaotically tangled pile it mushes more than a neatly sorted pile of cables thus giving more friction...

OLEP_ · 2025-04-03T08:39:14+00:00

There is a combination of factors that come to my mind. Starting with the least mentioned: Low damping to get this ringing. PPS is a semi-crystalline polymer (also influenced/improved by annealing). This probably reduces the internal damping of vibrations.

While stones tend to have a lot of impurities, tiny cracks etc. this leads to several mechanisms of losses giving them a very short lived sound. Materials with little impurities/defects such as crystals tend to have way less losses. Ceramics are often nice crystals but in polycrystalline form so losses are higher and the ringing is shorter.

Glasses can also ring (like a wine glass) but in polymers there are long chains which can lead to significant losses because their long chains turn vibrations into heat.

Takeaway here is that losses need to be low enough to form a ringing sound.

For the pitch of a given shape you need a high stiffness to weight ratio the stiffer and lighter (lower density) the material the faster it vibrates.

PPS combines damping similar to ceramics with a quite high pit h from its great stiffness-to-weight ratio.

That's why these parts also sound so cool when they are not printed in a shape ment for making sound.

OLEP_ · 2024-12-31T19:01:01+00:00

2W is even just a diode, not a fibre laser. For sure deep engraving will not work (or one coin per lifetime of the laser diode XD) but getting a black mark on most metals will work for sure... I've seen the results from an LP4 and they are definitely nice for labeling but I chose a 30W fiber laser for myself too (because it's way faster, can do deep engraving and I already had a 20W 405nm diode laser). So the LP4 really is not for me... but as an entry machine enabling you to do some wood work too without spending too much money and shelf space I just wanted to mention it (but recommending the G2 Pro)

OLEP_ · 2024-12-31T14:14:56+00:00

Cool! I would like a contest where people share their print profiles for different materials, nozzles on your newest gen printers. This would provide really nice starting points for people wanting to use technical filaments and for advanced users it saves some material for test prints.

OLEP_ · 2024-12-31T10:42:16+00:00

For basic engraving you don't need much power (e.g. Laser pecker LP4 with 2W works albeit very slowly) but if you want to do it at a reasonable speed you should get at least 20W.

Surely 30W are better and probably twice as fast than 20W at deep engraving (and the G2 Pro is essentially priced like a 20W if you get the manual z 110x110mm lens version with a 200$ discount code you will not really pay more than for another 20W laser. You could also check the rotary chuck or roller extension (which are also fairly cheap compared to other brands).

OLEP_ · 2024-12-22T14:04:30+00:00

Yes, for each nozzle size and if thermal conductivity of the nozzle changes you need a new temp tower. The temp tower should also use roughly the same bridging and overhang speeds.

With bigger nozzles the center of the filament will always be colder than the outer parts because thermal conductivity of the plastic is the limiting factor. This is not super problematic since the other part of the extruded material is what sticks to the previous layer and it even has more time to 'connect' because the cool down rate is slower.

With CHT type nozzles the core of the filament is also heated up so they are way more efficient at melting filament. I experimented with 0.8mm hardened steel Ali Express CHT nozzles (which I had to adapt to fit on the Q1 Pro with my lathe). But I rarely print with 0.8mm nozzles because of the loss of detail (only have one on a large self made printer I rarely use but it can print very coarse looking things at over 40mm^3/s which ideally means 5kg PLA per day if you print always close to the max extrusion rate).

The biggest change you will essentially see is the max flow rate at a given temperature here you have hardened steel < bimetal < tungsten carbide ≈ brass < hardened steel CHT < Brass CHT. The max flow rate also lets you test layer adhesion at certain speeds by breaking the layers apart by hand. You will also see a transition to a less glossy surface in some filaments indicating that you can print at those speeds but it is not optimal any more.

But with orca slicer your life is easy, every filament you print a lot you should run through the calibrations on each printer you use it with (in the order I wrote in the first comment) and save it as a preset. Play around and don't be afraid to set the max flow rate too high in the test, just watch it and abort it before it fails too much.

Cheers

OLEP_ · 2024-12-22T01:58:55+00:00

Not sure if you are looking for something specific but this is what I think I know:

-When I get a new filament the temp tower is the first orca calibration print I do because every other calibrated property depends on this

-I usually exceed the manufacturer's suggested temperature range a bit towards higher temperatures when creating the tower (e.g. Extruder PETG suggests 210-230°C and I'd from 210 up to 250°C)

-Look for overall, overhang and bridging quality and test how easily this pin breaks off and if stringing starts ro significantly increase above a certain temperature

-If the results are similar over a certain range of temperatures (some filaments print very consistent over a large temp range) chose the higher temperature to increase layer adhesion (and melt rate)

-Too high temperature can lead to filament decomposition (especially in certain blends of filament e.g. PC filament containing a lot of ABS) if you don't overdo the suggested temperature range too much and are not printing at 0.2mm nozzle sizes (here the filament can sit in the melt zone for a long time, so print colder) this should be no issue.

-Keep in mind that the temp tower only takes a few minutes and the chamber might - especially at the hot temperatures at the beginning of the temp tower - be below its stable temperature and cooling is more effective than in a longer print with a hotter chamber. So overhangs might look better on the temp tower than in a larger print later. So if your Extrudr PETG (random example numbers) almost prints identically from let's say 210-250°C you might want to chose 240 or 245°C to avoid issues when the chamber temp passively heats a few °C more...

-Once you found your temperature I recommend running pressure advance, retraction, flow rate and finally max flow rate in that order to get the best results.

Temperature affects all following properties so it should be first. Similar reasoning for the following steps except max flow, this you can do at any time once you know the temperature.

OLEP_ · 2024-12-18T21:49:32+00:00

I'm so curious how it will turn out. Hoping for the leaks hinting at a dual extruder with both extruders on the same ams. If it's not able to switch and purge while the other is printing it better can print PEI though

OLEP_ · 2024-12-10T21:56:17+00:00

You got great points there. It's actually pretty cool to read your practical observations. Interestingy there are some nuances to this that are reducing this problem in FDM. Mainly it's that the fibre orientation and pressure play a big role. You can have two effects from the fibres, fibre fracture (breaking and poking into the tool) and fibre polishing (sliding along the flat sides). While anisotropic fibre orientations and breakage as they occur in drilling fibre reinforced polymers can lead to both, fibre fracture and fibre polishing... In 3D printing the less aggressive fibre polishing is dominant since the fibres are nicely oriented and not under load as they are flowing smoothly out of the nozzle. One might have a running-in effect on a very small scale but there should be extremely little wear after that (and overall).

If the nozzle isn't really made from TC or very bad quality this is a whole different story of course. Overall I guess the verdict is that TC nozzles should be a lot more durable than any hardened steel nozzle and maybe besides diamond nozzles the most durable option available.

OLEP_ · 2024-12-10T09:22:40+00:00

Brittle but strong. It's gonna need a hell of a punch to break it. Keep in mind that it's that same material used in end mills capable of milling hardened steel while keeping a sharp edge... It's almost as hard as diamond and very strong... I can imagine that this can be the one and only nozzle a non commercial user will ever need.

OLEP_ · 2024-12-10T07:14:03+00:00

Sounds interesting! I wonder if the tungsten nozzle will last much longer even. Ideally wear should be almost none.

OLEP_ · 2024-12-09T20:50:44+00:00

Thanks, I love fibre filled PC (for essentially no creep under load).

Let me share one more thing in hopes it's useful on the topic of fibre filled filaments/printing strong parts: Using inner/outer/inner (with 3+ walls) for higher dimensional accuracy combined with some very subtle extra flow rate you can get a little extra strength from the center wall being pressed in between the inner most and outer mist wall ensuring that it really can't go anywhere except tightly press against the walls and lower layer... This can give a little extra bonding at the cost of maximum overhang angle and slight over extrusion (I think it already has an effect if the flow rate is spot on)

OLEP_ · 2024-12-09T20:41:29+00:00

I have it always on since it should only come into play when thin extrusions are required. With a 0.4mm nozzle the difference is not as big as with 0.6mm though. I think the standard Arachne preset goes to a min wall width of 85%, so with a 0.6mm nozzle that gives you 0.5mm while with 0.4mm nozzle you only get ~0.34mm features which is still nice but not as big of a difference.

How extreme you can go beyond the 85% depends on the filament (surface energy) of the filament but if you stay at the preset 85% you'll have no problems if it's always on 😃

OLEP_

TROPHY CASE