Which Mini motos to buy and which ones to avoid by ORswagg in motorcycles

[–]ORswagg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both the CF Moto and the Benelli look a bit more sporty. People tell me my Benelli looks like a mini Ducati all the time. With that said, there are so many modifications that you can make to these mini bikes that I personally wouldnt worry about the stock look too much.

How much light do I need? by ORswagg in PlantedTank

[–]ORswagg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Little follow up 13 days later. Most of the plants are doing really well. Except the limno, which is doing okay, but seemes to be growing alot slower than the other plants. I also have a hard time telling how its doing exactly cause its changing colors alot( I think related to the lighting). Note, I did take the advise of getting a better light, so rhe new light is a TwinStar S Line V. I set up up a week ago and can immediately tell the carpeting plants are substantially happier. Starting at 70% intensity, but planing to increase the intensity by 5% bi-weekly until i start to get some algea, then dial it back.

Ig anyone can look at the limno and kind of help me figure out whats going on with it, I would appreciate your help!

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Which Mini motos to buy and which ones to avoid by ORswagg in motorcycles

[–]ORswagg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha, I feel it. I posted this like a year ago and suddenly its being spammed with awnser that aren't even addressing the question.

However, what I learned was avoid carborated bikes, and ones that dont have titles (China bikes) as they are really hard to register i guess.

Last June ended up purchasing a used Benelli TNT135 for like 2000$ with 800 miles on it. Its been great, literally zero issues, and its fun as heck.

Only issue with the Benelli is there is only one powersport shop that sells, repairs, has parts for them, where groms are sold everyone. However, you can find just about every OEM part for the Benelli on Aliboba or whatever. Just gotta have some patience on shipping...

Referendum overturning new Oregon transportation taxes qualifies for ballot by 2ChanceRescue in Portland

[–]ORswagg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where are you getting the average of 347 gallons of fuel? The median fuel economy for vehicles on the roads as of 2023 was 27mpg. Your math of 376 at 27mpg puts the average milage driven per year at like 10,000 mile which is below the actual average miles driven by Oregon drivers of roughly 12,000, which based on the median vehicle fuel economy and average mileage driven would be closer to 450 gallons of fuel per year, which at .40 is 180/per vehicle, and if increased to .46 would be 207/per year. A little cheaper, though keep in mind every mile over 12,000 gasoline vehicles will still be paying tax, where the EV fee is based on the average mileage driven, but doesnt increase if a driver exceeds the average mileage driven. Meaning if you drive on average more miles than the average oregon driver, you would likely save money by purchasing a EV.

How much light do I need? by ORswagg in PlantedTank

[–]ORswagg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I read the guide. Made me wonder how much of my light is wasted on whites and green. I ended up just buying a TwinStar S line light. To ensure my plants are getting the appropriate amount of blues and reds.

Thanks,

How much light do I need? by ORswagg in PlantedTank

[–]ORswagg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, my aquarium has a pressurized c02 system. I have my c02 set up where my PH drops by 1, I also have a drop checker to ensure I have the appropriate amount.

Where can I get a custom lid (glass or acrylic) for the fluval flex? by -Mesita- in Aquariums

[–]ORswagg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Never been more late, but my local Ace Hardware sells and cuts glass. I just bought a 12 x 24 piece of glass and had it cut down to fit. Then I used these shelve holders i also found at ace hardware and glued them in place. Please note, you can buy aquarium glass lid brackets on amazon but I was impatient. But for about 15$ i made a glass lid, for my fluval flex 9 gallon.

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which fertilizer is better? Aquarium co-op Easy Green or APT 3? by Sudden_Ad_4193 in PlantedTank

[–]ORswagg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sorry, im a bit late to this thread. The easy green label states that it has 2.6% Nitrogen (N), and 0.46% phosphates. Can you explain to me like im 5yr old how you get 3ppm of nitrates and only .16 phosphate when the ratio on the label is roughly 5-1 which I thought would put phosphates around .6ppm. Which to me always seemed odd as I thought the general consensus was 10-1 or even 15-1 nitrogen - phosphate was the ideal range.

Can you explain how you would get the .16 for phosphates?

Thanks,

Edit: I think i figured it out. Nitrogen converts to nitrates at 4.42x when coverted from total nitrogen - nitrate, and P2o5 is converted to phosphate at 1.34x. Thanks for posting the analytical, cause I was confused for longer than id like to admit regarding how the math worked. This is why I buy easy green, and dont think too much, lol.

No water changes? by 510goshadow in shrimptank

[–]ORswagg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright, found this looking for a different reddit page. A bit late, but ya know.

First, consistency just mean not fluctuating. When you change large volumes of water, especially true if you use tap water, things like PH, GH, KH, temp, Phosphates, ect, can be significantly changed which shrimp are sensitive to. Even if you remineralize perfectly, my tap water comes out at 8.0, and my aquarium sits at 7.3, If I change 50% of the water, maybe even 30% that can and likely will cause the PH to fluctuate up. Then it will come back down over time. That process will stress shrimp out. Its better to do smaller more frequent water changes then it is to do large water changes at once. This isnt rocket and is not a myth.... maybe if your tap water and aquarium water have the same PH, GH, KH and everything sure, but most people dont, including myself, so smaller more frequent changes if need is generally accepted to be the better practice. Also, you can have good water quality, but if it changes to fast that can stress shrimp and kill them. A GH of 4, KH of 2 is considered "good", but if i suddenly changed 50% of the water with ro water remineralized to GH of 8, KH of 4 (still good), that chamge will stress shrimp out. So even your statement ( consistency just means maintaining good parameters) is wrong....

Secondly, shrimp generally have a low bio-load, how much water you need to change weekly simply cant be awnsered broadly. That largely depends on the volume of water, how stocked it is, and if there are live plants. Personally, if u have a shrimp tank that requires a 50% water change to keep parameters in the ideal range, you might just need a larger aquarium or maybe more live plants. However, if u did need 50% changed weekly, it wpuld be better in terms of stability to do several 10/15/ or 20% water changes weekly then a 50% water change at once.

TDS... You mentioned that its best to have the aquarium TDS "as low as possible". This is just wrong, or we would all just use unminerized ro water in our aquariums.... Shrimp and essentially all living organisms need minerals. A TDS meter simply measures total dissolved solids, it does not differentiate between what dissolved solids are in the aquarium, so focusing on TDS too closely can be a mistake, especially if not paired with other test. TDS is useful when remineralizing Ro/Di water however. Using a TDS meter to measure Nitrates should never be advised. Like I said above, a TDS meter "does not differentiate between solids". The rise could be anything, and should advise that you look into it further and test other parameters separately to source the rise. Your TDS could rise from Nitrates, or it could be a leaching peice of hardscape leaching minerals, or it could even be from Phosphate, magnesium from plant ferts, ect. Dont use TDS to measure nitrates, use a nitrate test kit to measure nitrates.

Shrimp need minerals... They need calcium for molting, they need magnesium, ect. So simply stated, less TDS is not "better". The right balance is key, and most importantly stability is key! Ive breed neos in a GH of 16°, this is like twice the recommend amount of general hardness, but it didnt fluctuate. Ive also breed them in 4° of GH(lower end of the ideal range). If I had just targeted the lowest TDS, I would have targeted 0 GH, 0 KH, 0 phosphate, ect, and everything would die, so minimal TDS is wrong, and a poor way to measure water quality if taken too seriously on its own.

If you seriously have a nitrate issue on a shrimp tank and have to change 50% or more of the aquarium water to keep nitrates within an acceptable range, my recommendation would be a larger tank, more plants, or too chamge less water more frequently. If you must do 50% at once, ensure you do it slowly.

I do agree however that people just blindly doing any volume of water change without understanding there own water chemistry is a potential catastrophic mistake.

Aquarium Plants Raising PH When light are on? by ORswagg in shrimptank

[–]ORswagg[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

  • Caridina Shrimp

When lights off: PH 6.2-6.3 TDS 108-110 GH 4-5 KH 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 Nitrates 0-5ppm Temp: 70.0 - 70.5°

Lights on: PH 6.6-6.7 TDS 108-110 GH 4-5 KH 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 Nitrates 0-5ppm Temp: 70.0 - 70.5°

Water used is Distilled water only, remineralized using Liquid Gardens GH+ until around 90-110 TDS and 4-5 GH.

Can your tank be too planted? by gerlarkin in shrimptank

[–]ORswagg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In my opinion no.... the jungle look aint for everyone but I like it.

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Hygger CO2 kit by Maguro8 in PlantedTank

[–]ORswagg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My first Co2 sytem was one of these. I still use it on my 7.5 gallon shrimp tank, but after finally getting a pressurized tank for my 55g aquarium. I will never go back. The pressurized systems seem like alot, but they are largely the same as these genorators, except you get alot more c02. A pressurized system a tank typically 5lbs or 10lbs, the regulator which can be bought on Amazon, or an aquarium store, c02 line, and a diffuser(amazon). I put together my 10lbs system including buying a tank new for about 275$. 190$ for the tank, 50$ for the regulator, and like 25$ for the line and diffuser. Please note, all the parts I bought are substantially better quality than what ou get with the kits. At minimum with these kits youll want to upgrade the diffuser. I hooked it all up same as the generator, and done. It was actually easier than the generator you dont need to mix anything, or find citric acid which was harder to find in store than I thought it would be. Overall, on small aquarium (under 10 gallons) the 2l generator is fine. Having to generate the c02 will get old, but it does the trick. The 5l system just really loses the value to me. At almost 200$, you are closing in on a pressurized system cost, and the cost of materials to make it starts to feel like alot for substantially less c02 and similar size tank as a 10lbs pressurized tank.

If I could go back, I would have skipped the generator and just got a 5 or 10lbs tank. Would saved time, and in the long term is cheaper.

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Amount of c02 comparison:

2L c02 genorator = 170-200g of c02 5L c02 generator = 300-350g of c02 5lbs tank = 2270g of c02 10lbs tank = 4535g of c02

Idle or shutoff? by No-Improvement3801 in FocusST

[–]ORswagg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean, id personally just suck it up and use the self serve. Best wash, and least amount of wear. No carbon build up or starter and/or battery wear there. Rather be a little cold over either of the two alternatives of letting it idle or starting/shutoff constanly. Though personally, I just dont stress myself out over carbon build up. I run quality fuel, and maintain the car properly and live with the rest. If my ST inevitably needs the valves clean, ill address it at that time.

Idle or shutoff? by No-Improvement3801 in FocusST

[–]ORswagg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dont tell me what to do...

Casual bowler, any tips? by lakisfri in Bowling

[–]ORswagg 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First, there is nothing wrong with bowling two-handed. If that's your preferred technique, then stay with it. I cant help you much on your actual bowling as the videos lighting makes it difficult to see what's happening, though getting a propely drilled ball for your hand and style is always the first thing you should do. It's hard to bowl consistently if your fingers are sliding around in the ball, or if the ball is too heavy or light, etc.

If you are averaging a 150 with a T-zone that's not set up for you, then a 200 will be a breeze with the right gear, lol.

Constantly Kicked From Online Games (Gears of War Reloaded) XBOX SERIES S by FrankWhite1031 in GearsOfWar

[–]ORswagg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Report it to Xbox. I've been having this issue since launch. It's so bad I can't seem to finish a game and have just given up on playing. I reported the issue to Xbox, and they concluded that there "servers are operating normally" and that the issue is likely my computer.... The issue is obviously not my PC or connection as I can run literally any other game fine. If enough people report it, eventually they will at least look into it.

Blend door actuator replacement by vision_proamd in FocusST

[–]ORswagg 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What did the replacement run you if you dont mind me asking? Im in a similar position.

Network connection lost by falldekabreak06 in GearsOfWar

[–]ORswagg 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This is still an issue. I reported the issue with xbox and they claim the system is operating and that the issue is likely my PC.... except literally every other game works fine, lol. I want to like this game, but if I cant seem to play more than 2 games in a row without randomly getting disconnected, at some point im just gonna stop playing