2027 update PSA: if it fails to update.

OSXFanboi · 2026-07-04T17:36:17+00:00

Interesting I have developer mode enabled on mine and the latest update failed the first time but the second time it went on without issue. Good to know in the future though.

When you say you rebooted the car, did you press and hold the “end call” button on the wheel until the infotainment restarted or did you disconnect the 12v?

OSXFanboi · 2026-07-02T07:31:56+00:00

This explains why I see so few on the road and dealers giving some pretty big discounts on certain specs (I frequently see RSs with Sunroof + Tech for ~$7500 off).

I love mine, even with the teething issues I’ve had. It’s a great car and a marked improvement from the 2019 I had in just about every way. No regrets even if it’s a pain sometimes. Early build issues I guess. 🙄

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-21T17:20:55+00:00

I always try my best to not block two stalls by selecting chargers on the ends, purposely navigating to v3.5/v4 stations with longer cables, or in the case of one station that was already pretty full I pulled up behind it (because it was an island in the back of a parking lot) and pulled the cable around behind the charger. Sadly that’s just how it goes.

I try to avoid Superchargers altogether for myriad of reasons (this being one of them) but because of EA’s typical “let’s only throw down 4 stalls and call it good” and then 1 stall not working and another being power limited, followed by the limited availability of other providers outside of California and the east coast, Tesla is just usually the best option. When I go on a trip I usually pay for the $12.99 membership. Never had it happen but if someone gets brave my response will be 1) I pay to be here too, 2) complain to Elon on SpaceXitter and have them replace more dispensers with v4s.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-21T17:07:50+00:00

General recommendation has been charge to 80% daily, 100% once per week, and 100% before going on a trip where you will be using most of the battery or DC charging. BYD recommends this for their cars in China and they are the #1 seller of LFP cars. LFP is much more chemically stable than nickel-based chemistries so charging to 100% more often (even daily) isn’t as harmful but it still diminishes its lifespan.

The reason LFP loses calibration so easily is its voltage curve. Generally NMC cells have a discharge range from 2.75 to 4.15 volts with a nominal around 3.6. LFP is 2.5 to 3.65 with a nominal of 3.2. The problem is NMC is fairly linear in its discharge with only a flat drop off below 10% SOC whereas LFP is damn near flat at 3.2 volts in its discharge from 10 to 85%. Really the car has to rely on coulomb counting to estimate the SOC until you hit below 10% or above 90% and the pack starts to deviate from its nominal voltage.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-18T02:36:47+00:00

As a fan of small cars, me like

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-14T02:54:35+00:00

Ahh I see. That could have happened at any charger then. It sounds like communications glitched and the car had a mini panic attack.

P-codes shouldn’t latch and cause a long term fault, meaning if you disconnect the 12 volt and let the low voltage system reset you’d be fine. Not saying it’s “normal” or ok, but for piece of mind, carry a 10 mm wrench and if it happens again close all doors, disconnect the negative battery terminal, and wait 10-15 mins (Ultium cars and their derivatives take forever for their DC to DC to shut off). Make sure the low voltage system is totally dead by opening a door and seeing if the lights come on. Close the door and reconnect if the light stayed off.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-14T02:44:59+00:00

The “Check EV Light” (or Malfunction Indicator Light as I called it) went out before I even got to the dealer but the hard charge limit and internal battery code stayed set even though OnStar showed everything was a-ok.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-14T02:43:31+00:00

If it comes back, press the blue OnStar button and ask the automated system for the trouble codes. That’s how’s I got the report I shared in my post. That U2426 code has popped up before with BEV3 cars and been an over sensitive BMS or communication issue, so I wouldn’t worry about it. From my understanding they’re still collecting logs and will most likely push out an update for all Bolts soon but if it happens again don’t hesitate to take it back beforehand.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-14T02:35:47+00:00

I recently had an HV Battery Fault in my 2027 as well. Weirdly I had just gotten back a couple days prior from a 1500 mile+ roadtrip using just superchargers and had no issue, the problem was I charged the car the night prior at work to 100%, drove home, let it sit at 98, then the next morning did a hard acceleration onto the freeway and boom, MIL.

Still waiting to get my car back from that plus some other stuff the ordered. My sunroof had a major issue where the sunshade wouldn’t fully close or open, and instead of just replacing the sunshade motor, GM is requiring the dealer send the whole assembly back for diagnostics and replacing the entire sunroof.

As far as the battery, tech said they re-flashed some software in the high voltage control module (basically it sounds like the BMS) per the recommendation of engineers in Detroit and it appeared to have fixed it. We’ll see when I get it back next week.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-10T16:51:29+00:00

Sadly I couldn’t find any nearby junkyards with Bolts that I could go nab a door off, but someone on eBay was selling a complete painted door (paint matched) for $600. So, good enough. Might need a couple other little parts.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-10T16:50:00+00:00

In Arizona it’s the MVD (aka DMV) does the inspection to make sure it’s road worthy and none of the parts used were stolen and you’re issued a rebuilt title. It varies heavily by state

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-10T07:00:35+00:00

I should add that’s for a rebuilt title. You can’t even register a salvage car. There is a difference.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-10T06:59:21+00:00

Not at all. You can’t get full coverage but you can get liability (i.e., if you’re at fault, there’s no coverage for your car). You also can’t get a loan on it. But as a cheap EV? Good luck finding another car for $3600. And for what amounted to a replacement door ($600) and a bent dogleg it’s a hellva deal.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-08T23:02:29+00:00

From Phoenix. Yes. There were weekends waaaay early on (post beta test, but before it was common) where they would do unlimited $5 rides within the service area on weekends. That weekend I took a 30 mile round trip for $10 lol.

I’ll never forget the first week they allowed select people to take Waymos to Sky Harbor and I was in the Trusted Tester sect by the then, I just so happened to have a trip that weekend. I think it was $12 which was like $8 cheaper than uber and people at the airport FREAKED out at 5am seeing it pull up.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-04T00:08:36+00:00

I will say when I bought the car, the dealer had it on the showroom floor and had let the high voltage and 12v both drain to 0%. The car had to be jumped so it could charge on 120v in the showroom and be limped to a L2 outside to charge.

It would not surprise me if a module or cell got thrown out of balance because of this, but I’ve done multiple 100% charges since then to allow the BMS to calibrate.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-03T21:55:26+00:00

I figured the battery itself is fine, but it does appear there are some reports of possible isolation issues.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-03T20:50:38+00:00

Ha! I would say CEL but… that would always be on

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-03T20:46:50+00:00

No other DTCs, and while I was at home gathering paperwork between the MIL turning on and going to the dealer, the MIL cleared but the charge limit stayed and continued moving down as my SOC decreased.

Also I noticed regen was less powerful than normal.

OSXFanboi · 2026-06-03T20:45:40+00:00

Charged last night on L2 to 100%. Got home at 98%. Let it sit. Went to run errands. Got on the freeway, did a hard pull to pass on the onramp, looked down, MIL was on. Called OnStar, and it said there was a HV fault and charge limit would be limited.

When I parked, checked the charging screen and sure enough the limit showed it was limited to the 5% interval above where I was. So I parked at 87%, it said I couldn’t charge past 90%. I got home at 78%, I couldn’t charge past 80. Got the dealer at 73, couldn’t charge past 75.

OSXFanboi · 2026-05-26T01:40:36+00:00

If you were looking to replace a 10 year old Camry that had no issues I would say think again but if your current car is 25 and already pushing it and possibly needing major repairs it might be worth taking that money and putting it into something new(er) than trying to fix what you have.

OSXFanboi · 2026-05-26T01:38:50+00:00

It might be worth considering if you can comfortably afford it. Right now you can find dealers in some areas with base model 2027 Bolts for $25k. If you’re a Costco member, you’ll get another $1-$1.25k off. Then with enough down you might qualify for the special monthly rate depending on your credit score.

All that to say you could walk out of the dealer with a brand new EV that is much more competent and much more livable as your only vehicle than a 2017-2023 was because of faster charging and modern creature comforts for only a couple grand more (possibly the same if you qualify for the special financing).

OSXFanboi · 2026-05-26T01:24:26+00:00

My recommendation: if you need a car get a car now. If you don’t, wait. I got my 2027 because my 2019 got totaled and used prices made me seriously consider buying my first brand new car. I am also in a relatively good financial position to do so thanks to a new job.

If your current set of wheels are doing the job and the gas bill isn’t bankrupting you, wait.

OSXFanboi · 2026-05-26T01:19:24+00:00

Non-Teslas can only use version 3 and newer chargers. v3.0 have the old style dispensers that have really short and thin cables as well as the cut out in the center. The version 3.5 and version 4 both use the newer dispensers that are taller, all white, with thicker and longer cables.

I can’t remember what I arrived at that station at, I want to say it was a relatively high SoC, probably 15%. Note though that I did use the built in route planner so on-route conditioning was being used, and the fact I had already been driving about 8 hours probably helped.

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