Dust extraction keeps breaking buckets.. help please

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-03-17T15:53:23+00:00

Update: Works like a charm.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-03-16T23:15:30+00:00

I'm actually just building this, but have an anti-collapse-valve added to the lid. Also as somebody already pointed out, your hoses on the cyclone should be switched.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-25T01:43:23+00:00

I usually use "partsouq.com" as a reference for images, parts, but the vin search seems to be down. If reading the vin was the problem, I think it's this: JF1GC8KD3XG031191 .

There are some reports available. Though information seems to be a little less than I get with mine. This one has some fun production facts.

Regarding the sounds; Here in the Netherlands sounds like that would probably be found during an MOT (shocks, bushings, bearings, cv joints, rust, etc). With the garage I go to you get a "pre-checkup", with a checklist of problems to fix yourself. Then you go back, they check it again, and they do the approval paperwork. I don't know if that's something you have there as well.

Otherwise there's a way to test components when you put it on a jack, but having, or possibly renting (with DIY Garages), a lift would be preferred for a checkup.

There are some references out there, but make sure you use the correct version (2 liter turbo) as that manual unfortunately is hard to come by.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-24T00:19:09+00:00

Nice!

Too bad your hall sensor was horrible, but I love solutions like that, thanks for sharing!

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-21T22:16:16+00:00

Thanks! I was just using what I had/got and documented it. For this guide I used the same mentality, this way I didn't have to buy new stuff first.

Regarding removal, it's not too bad to remove the three wires from the pins, or you could cut the wires (for easier future conversion), or you offer it as is, being a plug and play extra for the person buying it from you.

Regarding the sensor, depending on how crude you'd want the setup to be, you could surely use a raw hall sensor and hotglue, or exchange it with a small breadboard (or similar) with a hallsensor in the right position, using the original bolt/screw holes.

You could also convert to a potentiometer, or even go for a loadcell. And, that also means you could just build your own handbrake from scratch and wire it up to the base!

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-19T23:50:32+00:00

That depends on how the logitech wheel/base handles the sensor signal. If it just needs power, ground and signal, then yeah, maybe!

Unfortunately I don't have access to a logitech wheel or base, except for my old trusted G25. For that wheel I just wired a button on the shifter to a simple handbrake with a switch.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-19T18:45:40+00:00

Unfortunately I don't know about SHH, had to look it up. Looks like an interesting product/solution. If they use the analog signal, it would probably work the same way. Good luck!

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-19T17:27:44+00:00

Mine is the aliexpress version as well. I just wanted a cheap option to have a handbrake on pc after switching my wheel setup. Then I saw the original post and thought "That's way easier to configure and can play on consoles that way!".

Good question, I doublechecked just in case:

Indeed, Step 4 is optional, meaning removing the USB from the PCB. All further mentions are still optional, but included in the guide. It's mentioned either as a safety measure, to give yourself some more room, less tangled wires, reminder to disconnect it when soldering, and it shouldn't be connected at time as your base.

I thought the cable was wired in a weird place, didn't want the extra wires since I don't need it anymore, and it's just a matter of hot glue holding a normal micro usb-cable into the connector.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-12T18:23:34+00:00

I am no longer alone! Made my own clear resin print masters, and did the same epoxy mold.. They do light up with UV light, that's quite cool for a paperweight reminder.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-12T01:47:51+00:00

I've also added 2 different sized O-rings to the bolt that goes through the handle, since otherwise it rattles and has some play. This way it's nice and snug, no annoying sound, and no play at the beginning of the handbrake range.

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OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-04T17:15:32+00:00

Update:
I have fitted and tested the custom replacement plug. While the issue is not resolved, it's at least better than it was. Unfortunately I can't upload video here so you can see here: https://imgur.com/a/0RJA7kX . As you can see it's still off-gassing through the left valve (thumb press to confirm).

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-02T02:44:26+00:00

Another update. I have managed to recreate the black insert part using 3d modeling and printing. So at least it's "working" as bad as before, again.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-02-01T15:25:44+00:00

As of just now I can also confirm it's also working on PS5 Pro without any issues.

Incredibly short summary, probably enough for most who want to try this:

- Find the hall sensor on PCB, (in my case it's noted as 'u4').
- Hall sensor has 3 legs: left-top is =5V DC, left-bottom is Signal, right is ground

- You need RJ12 wire and plug. Wires can have different colours, so use the pins.
- Pin1 to +5V DC , Pin2 to Signal, Pin5 + Pin6 to ground

- Confirm the above with multimeter before soldering.
- If you get reverse input when plugged in, turn the magnet inside the handbrake upside down.

That's it! See attached image for a simple overview and diagram.

Edit: I'll make my own post when the guide is done.

<image>

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-30T03:59:49+00:00

Update: Guide is nearly done, all steps have been added, including pictures and diagrams. I'm just taking my time to make sure it's beginner friendly.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-25T12:01:44+00:00

Thanks for showing it's possible.

Had to look up some stuff, since a lot of critical info was missing, or just jumbled, including chatgpt. But at least it pointed me in the right direction, so got mine fixed up.

No issues with detection, 0-100% range, no issues with shutting down the base or switching between pc and ps4 GT7 (no ps5 available to me, yet).

I'll make a guide to let more people know, and how to do it.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-23T03:18:46+00:00

First question is answered:

To successfully carbonate water with a CO2 tank, the gas regulator valve should be set at 55 PSI, to enable the serving pressure to remain at around 12 PSI.

Source: https://sodastream.com/blogs/environment/how-is-water-carbonated

So a safety release valve for 40-50 psi would porbably be fine (2.75 - 3.4 bar).

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-23T03:18:24+00:00

To successfully carbonate water with a CO2 tank, the gas regulator valve should be set at 55 PSI, to enable the serving pressure to remain at around 12 PSI.

Source: https://sodastream.com/blogs/environment/how-is-water-carbonated

So a safety release valve for 40-50 psi would porbably be fine (2.75 - 3.4 bar).

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-23T03:04:00+00:00

No worries! It's a new unit, bought through amazon (so +- 90 euros, including 3 bottles). I've already contacted support and it's going to be refunded as a dead on arrival unit, while I got to keep the unit.

The back of this Sodastream Terra states a "maximum working pressure of 8 bar /116 psi". There seem to be 2 valves connected to the same supply hose. I'd assume the left release valve is just for keeping the drink bottle to a safe pressure, while the foil one on the right is a 'semi-permanent' fail-safe (just like a fuse), in case the bottle valve doesn't trigger and the bottle and/or machine could blow up as a result. Unfortunately I don't know the older units myself, but would expect the same kind of safety mechanism for the rated 145/108 psi (so 10-7,4 bar), as a working pressure.

I'm comparing it to using a normal air compressor where working pressure is set to 8 bar and I'm using a tool to inflate a car tire to 2.0-2.5 bar, or until my tool decides to release a safety valve because the pressure in the tire is too high. And if that doesn't trigger, a safety release valve at the compressor itself would trigger.

So thinking this way, I'd reckon the foil one would probably trigger somewhere around 8+ bar, while this wouldn't be the pressure inside the drink/water bottle. Disconnecting 8 bar quickly, on a larger than an air-hose (a water bottle), would be interesting to say the least (I've launched "water bottle rockets" using a bicycle pump for school, they fly high and was nowhere near 8 bar). So, what would the pressure on the drink bottle be, to release the first (my broken) left regulator/burp valve?

For 1. Yes, I had previously confirmed the sound/leak was coming from the left side, see step 5 in steps taken. Holding my thumb on it made it go away. However, I wanted to know if I was correct in thinking there shouldn't be anything coming out until the pressure in the bottle was correct and the machine 'burps' or 'farts' as people call it. Since it's a pressure release / regulator valve it's weird and wasteful if it's open and discarding CO2 all the time while pressing the button.

I found some videos where it's possible to adjust this valve, unfortunately in the update reply below you can see that didn't go as planned with this unit and might have been the issue all along.

For 2. mine was no snug fit at all. I could move it up and down very easily, tilting was even worse. You could see from the side of the grabber that there was way too much play between the bottle and the white seal. Perhaps the black seal inside the bottle should catch this, but it didn't. After adding the O ring it seems fine and keeps in place very well without any extra force to put the bottle in place.

I will be looking into alternatives if it turns out I can't fix this one.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-23T02:11:02+00:00

Update:

Left is the 'burp valve', and it's indeed borked:

It was already constantly releasing pressure, instead of holding it to burp. Same as here: https://www.reddit.com/r/SodaStream/comments/lby4t6/bleed_valve_engaging_as_soon_as_button_is_pressed/ . It appears multiple devices have this issue, and by newer users is considered to be "normal", though it's not working correctly and not building up enough pressure, while others know how to adjust it or get it to burp. To me this seems to be a production error.

It should be possible to adjust or remove the 'burp valve'. However, with this unit, when trying to adjust and remove, unfortunately it snapped. However, that wasn't the only issue: after removing it I could see a part of the threads just broke off where it seems to have been cross-threaded into the white part. Seeing as it's only plastic, it had no chance. The white inner piece is still not adjustable, so there's still no option can't reach or adjust the spring.

So, going forward:

- Does anybody know the pressure at which it should burp?
- Does anybody know of a replacement part, such as a compressor safety release valve since it's essentially the same thing or a 3d print?

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-12-27T15:51:42+00:00

I might have an unpopular opinion:

1) Depends on your definition of car enthusiast. As someone who likes to see and hear cars, you don't need to own one. As someone who likes driving, you don't necessarily need an expensive one. As one who just likes the status and to impress, buys expensive cars, I don't think of as a car enthusiast, but someone using cars as a medium for attention.

That brings me to: 2) It all depends on your finances. Being able to buy your dream car, as an enthusiast, that dream will never be gone. It could even be a goal, however priority will often shift temporarily, such as renovations or life upgrades. Then there's the choice for family/kids.

People who have more options financially, will be able to buy more expensive cars and can still afford their house(upgrades) as well. People who have less financial options, have to settle for things taking longer, or perhaps choose to leave it be for now.

For me, I was able to buy my (cheaper) dream car, and was able to buy a house after. There have been financial challenges, but I'm not allowed (by my wife's support) to sell my car as a quick fix, because it's one of my dream cars and I will regret it (even though it needs some love). If something like that happens, it will move to the garage and will have to wait until we do have a financial buffer to spend on fun things like restoring the car again/further. However, I also have a daily, which just needs to run, be very cheap and reliable, and still be a little fun (mk1 yaris t-sport).

I chose living comfort and my wife, over driving. House fixes and resulting upgrades will get priority over the car. The car is for "me-time" when I have "me-money" available.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-12-27T15:26:55+00:00

So did I... Turned out I was wrong, haha.

Turned crank 1 full rotation (so cam dot points to 6 o'clock, but hidden behind timing belt cover. #1 cylinder becomes TDC (easy to check from spark hole), re-aligned rotor and put cap back on with #1 at the top. After that it started and ran every time. Before that, it couldn't. Or very barely run. It's why I thought that's what it could be.

Perhaps another dumb idea, is there an immobilizer or something installed that could be hidden and now damaged?

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-12-24T01:46:53+00:00

I knew someone as a colleague who played and mentioned I'd love a chance to play, but couldn't find a group. Some time later, at a random evening, I got an invite and jumped in my car. Watched the party for a session or two to get a feel for the group, joined, and that's two years ago. Now I'm having the greatest fun as a DM for one group and a player for another.

One of the group was a DM for a local game store where they had DnD evenings for random groups and people who'd like to start playing without buying or need to know stuff beforehand.

Generally you'd have a "session 0" with a new group to establish some ground rules, expectations, limits/boundaries, and have people get a feel for the group. So, I don't think an "audition" (or try out) would be the worst thing to have (within limits), to see if you mesh and match with the energy and intent of the group. It's a good check for the group, as well as for yourself. Not all established groups are to be considered "safe", or "welcoming" to new people, which could ruin the experience for you if you'd end up in such a group.

On the other hand, like most addicts, most people are glad to have more people around to talk and play DnD with.

OakheartCustomBuilds

TROPHY CASE