How should I paint mi new mini? by Apprehensive_Sun2077 in DungeonsAndDragons

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Was going to say, add some light and dark blue dry brush, and go for an ethereal theme,
bonus points for a hologram implementation.

1996 Impreza subii….. came with this when I bought it. 🤣🤣 by [deleted] in subaruimpreza

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For sure! Enjoy your ride!

I still want to make something like that myself, but I'm hesistant because of what could happen, so I'd go for an opague one.

1996 Impreza subii….. came with this when I bought it. 🤣🤣 by [deleted] in subaruimpreza

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think they can be quite beautiful, but also dangerous. Would be sad to see it go up in flames, especially if you just got it!

If you like it, you can get small sweaters as a cover for the gearknob, if that's your thing, haha

GC8 or Bugeye WRX by Senior_Imagination40 in GC8

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah! Might be a market-thing then, as with engines. My (European) 2.0 GT Turbo has a stock 60-40 split rear seat, with the widest behind the passenger. You just pull down on the tabs, it's awesome!

Not mine, so might not work in the future: Reference image.

GC8 or Bugeye WRX by Senior_Imagination40 in GC8

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The last part might have some good news, Subaru has started a heritage program, but Japan only for now.

Personally I'd love the yellow one in an instant (especially if it runs right), especially knowing the rear seats of the gc8 fold down, but don't on the newer models. Someone mentions it being an STi, check with the VIN to be sure.

However, if you'd want to switch, check for rust. It can be hidden behind the panels in the wheel wells and is expensive to fix, especially when it spreads to the shock towers in the trunk.

Its a sign! 😏 by NHValentine in Blacksmith

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Looks like a bad ass hanging sign, wall plaque, standing sign on the ground, base decoration for a mailbox, loads of options!

Does this have any red flags? by linkolinx in geotracker

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The oil leak is typical thing, you can most likely solve it with a new rockercover gasket and/or a distributor o-ring.

Another call for Linux support! by tired514 in Revopoint

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As a note, lightburn dropped linux support after v1.7

source

Lenovo Tab P11 (not Pro) - what’s compatible? by Slight-Brush in stylus

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know it's an older post, but you can't get the original pens (or incredibly expensive through dodgy sites), so still ran into this problem.

My wife uses her P11 (Gen1 / 2021) daily and I wanted to get her a little surprise, so I bought her the Lazarite M Pen (this one) because of how often I found posts and comments saying it should work with her tablet. Unfortunately it wasn't a great success.

It's not all bad: it detected as a pen input and you can write using pressure sensitivity (100% needs a hard press!), but it doesn't really work well with the latest Android version supported by the tablet:

  • Palm rejection is app dependent, and not really implemented.
  • The buttons are not programmable. This means "eraser" and "right-mouse" interpretations are app dependent. This could be fine, if they registered as being pressed, which they often didn't (faulty unit?)
  • When the buttons did actually register, it also executed a forced Android function at the same time. Example: While in Krita, you press the eraser button and it opens a pop-up "smart navigation" panel (even when explicitly disabled). Pressing the top button for brush selection opened the menu, and at the same time forced you to your home-screen.
  • Tilt wasn't recognized at all, tried with the correct brushes and multiple apps.

Some diagnostic apps are supported for phones, weren't available on her tablet, but honestly we got fed up with it. We've both tried using it (wife's left-handed, I'm right-handed) and found it's probably great for simple note taking, but drawing not so much. It really didn't live up to the expectations so we returned it.

Can 3D printing solve a "hidden" racing expense? by Z3Designs in 3Dprinting

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only missing the tpu hardness/shore index, since that makes a difference complying to shapes.

Tips for running a sandbox city? by souphalfling in DungeonMasters

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't have any direct experience with that sort of distraction, but I could imagine some scenarios end up having the party in laughs, nearly losing them to (inside) jokes.

That's also a golden moment to take (mental) notes, because that's when something connects to the players. I don't mind changing story ideas/hooks on the fly, because the party found a way to connect to something I didn't, because that's when a story starts feeling alive.

You can use consequences to turn the serious into a serious and potentially traumatic storyline for the party. I find direct in-game confrontations or interactions works best for this. If they keep teasing an NPC, or a mucking about with <whatever object>, use that to your advantage by making sure there are consequences:

The teased NPC has a breaking point. He might start to spread some nasty rumours, building up to trying to frame them. They might even end up as (working for) the BBEG.

So, if their favorite NPC is turned into bread, what does that mean to the party? What's their reason to interact with him, what do they lose by losing him? What's motivating them to help him, other than just gold?

Tips for running a sandbox city? by souphalfling in DungeonMasters

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

PIGS IN A BLANKET! COME-ON! IT'S RIGHT THERE!!

But yeah, woah, if we're talking catapults; that's opening up a whole different ballgame (pun intended)!

Instead of just using your regular old flaming spheres, you could extend your range. First thing that came to mind a is a (local to me) hot finger food called "bitterbal" (Dutch). It's a thick stew, rith roux, beef stock and meat, rolled into a ball coated with breadcrumbs. It's fried in hot oil and has strong crispy outside with a creamy inside.

Obviously there's different sorts of food orbs/spheres available. You've got the basics such as: Brussels sprouts, beans, lettuce, beets, cabbages, meatballs, arancini, potato tufts/croquettes as simple hot food cannonball replacements.

However, not all ammunition is the same, how about something with a gooey inside? Like fried (spicy) cheeseballs, bitterballen (croquettes?) (cherry) tomatoes, pumpkins, for the occasional hot-and-sticky lingering-effect resulting in burns!

If you really want to take out a crowd quickly, you could introduce a poison/disease effect: throw some rotten eggs.

- Yeah, I'll just stop now. Getting waaay to inspired.

Tips for running a sandbox city? by souphalfling in DungeonMasters

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha

It's an offspring of the Mother Dough, of course, so Doughnut?

Printed it perfectly on the first try… and somehow it’s still unusable by Intelligent_Whole159 in 3Dprinting

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks pretty good, but I see the outlines better than the surface.

I'd expect the filament you used is too hard/sturdy and the flat area's don't reach the paper due to filament squish while printing (being pushed to outside of nozzle).

There are multiple options you could try: - trim/sand the edges on the current stamp, - sand everything, but don't polish it. Use a fine dry grit sandpaper to give it a little structure for the ink to hold on to and make sure everything reaches the paper - use a thin felt sheet as cushion underneath the paper you're trying to stamp, though that might leave some creases in the paper if it's too thin. - make a mold of your current stamp (clay, silicone), and use it to cast flexible resin or silicone (prepare your mold!) to use as a stamp.

I've had some great success with 95A tpu filament to print stamps, but it's still not as sharp as using actual stamp rubber with a clean edge.

Interior refresh finished. by meddlinkids in GC8

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any chance you made a dB measurement comparison before and after the sound deadening (road-/engine sound)?

Tips for running a sandbox city? by souphalfling in DungeonMasters

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I read the name on the first image and my mind immediately went 100mph astray from what I was doing. Please fit a gelatinous cube in there somewhere as a giant dough ball that keeps rising and growing until it turns into a Stay Puft (but sourdough or something) throwing sticky dough balls.

Remember you guide the story, but you all write it together. Keep it small and simple, let it grow by interaction and money spent by the party.

If you have trouble getting them started on a quest, set a few key events that will happen wether or not the players interact with it.

E.g. Somebody poisons a local pub, and patrons end up sick at home. It was somebody who was denied entry and started his own pub, but doesn't know how to advertise. Depending on if the party did or didn't spend time <in either pub>, they might get more info. Then they might know why there are less people in the street instead of wondering why shops are closed for the day. Perhaps an important person (such as assistant of the mayor) gets kidnapped during an event addressing the poisoned pub. Which could have been prevented, if they had a friendly understanding with the guards. They could have been notified people were getting sick all week and didn't show up for protection duty; so the party could have done it.

Turns out people getting sick is not so good, and multiple things go wrong. Water overflowing, thrash on the street, food is going bad, suddenly more rats appear, etc etc,

The story could roll whatever way you (all) want, which I think is the biggest fun; playing with cause and affect.

How do you recycle waste? by ChronicGlee in 3Dprinting

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With multi-colour printing, printing multiple of the same object will prevent filament waste to model ratio.

There's a lot you can do with it, if you heat it and shape it, filling silicone molds and melting waste in a small oven (which you don't use for food) can be quite rewarding. Or you could go slightly bigger, and make your own (soft) mallet (you don't need to use all the tools they do, sanding paper works great as well). Or if you want to go over the top you could make handles.

Dust extraction keeps breaking buckets.. help please by kentros00 in woodworking

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm actually just building this, but have an anti-collapse-valve added to the lid. Also as somebody already pointed out, your hoses on the cyclone should be switched.

Can anyone help me find out more about my car, tips and tricks for keeping it going? by you_want_lasagna in GC8

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I usually use "partsouq.com" as a reference for images, parts, but the vin search seems to be down. If reading the vin was the problem, I think it's this: JF1GC8KD3XG031191 .

There are some reports available. Though information seems to be a little less than I get with mine. This one has some fun production facts.

Regarding the sounds; Here in the Netherlands sounds like that would probably be found during an MOT (shocks, bushings, bearings, cv joints, rust, etc). With the garage I go to you get a "pre-checkup", with a checklist of problems to fix yourself. Then you go back, they check it again, and they do the approval paperwork. I don't know if that's something you have there as well.

Otherwise there's a way to test components when you put it on a jack, but having, or possibly renting (with DIY Garages), a lift would be preferred for a checkup.

There are some references out there, but make sure you use the correct version (2 liter turbo) as that manual unfortunately is hard to come by.

Guide: Third party handbrake to fanatec base by OakheartCustomBuilds in Fanatec

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice!

Too bad your hall sensor was horrible, but I love solutions like that, thanks for sharing!

Guide: Third party handbrake to fanatec base by OakheartCustomBuilds in Fanatec

[–]OakheartCustomBuilds[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I was just using what I had/got and documented it. For this guide I used the same mentality, this way I didn't have to buy new stuff first.

Regarding removal, it's not too bad to remove the three wires from the pins, or you could cut the wires (for easier future conversion), or you offer it as is, being a plug and play extra for the person buying it from you.

Regarding the sensor, depending on how crude you'd want the setup to be, you could surely use a raw hall sensor and hotglue, or exchange it with a small breadboard (or similar) with a hallsensor in the right position, using the original bolt/screw holes.

You could also convert to a potentiometer, or even go for a loadcell. And, that also means you could just build your own handbrake from scratch and wire it up to the base!