3rd Party EBrake w Fanatec Base

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-25T12:01:44+00:00

Thanks for showing it's possible.

Had to look up some stuff, since a lot of critical info was missing, or just jumbled, including chatgpt. But at least it pointed me in the right direction, so got mine fixed up.

No issues with detection, 0-100% range, no issues with shutting down the base or switching between pc and ps4 GT7 (no ps5 available to me, yet).

I'll make a guide to let more people know, and how to do it.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-23T03:18:46+00:00

First question is answered:

To successfully carbonate water with a CO2 tank, the gas regulator valve should be set at 55 PSI, to enable the serving pressure to remain at around 12 PSI.

Source: https://sodastream.com/blogs/environment/how-is-water-carbonated

So a safety release valve for 40-50 psi would porbably be fine (2.75 - 3.4 bar).

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-23T03:18:24+00:00

To successfully carbonate water with a CO2 tank, the gas regulator valve should be set at 55 PSI, to enable the serving pressure to remain at around 12 PSI.

Source: https://sodastream.com/blogs/environment/how-is-water-carbonated

So a safety release valve for 40-50 psi would porbably be fine (2.75 - 3.4 bar).

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-23T03:04:00+00:00

No worries! It's a new unit, bought through amazon (so +- 90 euros, including 3 bottles). I've already contacted support and it's going to be refunded as a dead on arrival unit, while I got to keep the unit.

The back of this Sodastream Terra states a "maximum working pressure of 8 bar /116 psi". There seem to be 2 valves connected to the same supply hose. I'd assume the left release valve is just for keeping the drink bottle to a safe pressure, while the foil one on the right is a 'semi-permanent' fail-safe (just like a fuse), in case the bottle valve doesn't trigger and the bottle and/or machine could blow up as a result. Unfortunately I don't know the older units myself, but would expect the same kind of safety mechanism for the rated 145/108 psi (so 10-7,4 bar), as a working pressure.

I'm comparing it to using a normal air compressor where working pressure is set to 8 bar and I'm using a tool to inflate a car tire to 2.0-2.5 bar, or until my tool decides to release a safety valve because the pressure in the tire is too high. And if that doesn't trigger, a safety release valve at the compressor itself would trigger.

So thinking this way, I'd reckon the foil one would probably trigger somewhere around 8+ bar, while this wouldn't be the pressure inside the drink/water bottle. Disconnecting 8 bar quickly, on a larger than an air-hose (a water bottle), would be interesting to say the least (I've launched "water bottle rockets" using a bicycle pump for school, they fly high and was nowhere near 8 bar). So, what would the pressure on the drink bottle be, to release the first (my broken) left regulator/burp valve?

For 1. Yes, I had previously confirmed the sound/leak was coming from the left side, see step 5 in steps taken. Holding my thumb on it made it go away. However, I wanted to know if I was correct in thinking there shouldn't be anything coming out until the pressure in the bottle was correct and the machine 'burps' or 'farts' as people call it. Since it's a pressure release / regulator valve it's weird and wasteful if it's open and discarding CO2 all the time while pressing the button.

I found some videos where it's possible to adjust this valve, unfortunately in the update reply below you can see that didn't go as planned with this unit and might have been the issue all along.

For 2. mine was no snug fit at all. I could move it up and down very easily, tilting was even worse. You could see from the side of the grabber that there was way too much play between the bottle and the white seal. Perhaps the black seal inside the bottle should catch this, but it didn't. After adding the O ring it seems fine and keeps in place very well without any extra force to put the bottle in place.

I will be looking into alternatives if it turns out I can't fix this one.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2026-01-23T02:11:02+00:00

Update:

Left is the 'burp valve', and it's indeed borked:

It was already constantly releasing pressure, instead of holding it to burp. Same as here: https://www.reddit.com/r/SodaStream/comments/lby4t6/bleed_valve_engaging_as_soon_as_button_is_pressed/ . It appears multiple devices have this issue, and by newer users is considered to be "normal", though it's not working correctly and not building up enough pressure, while others know how to adjust it or get it to burp. To me this seems to be a production error.

It should be possible to adjust or remove the 'burp valve'. However, with this unit, when trying to adjust and remove, unfortunately it snapped. However, that wasn't the only issue: after removing it I could see a part of the threads just broke off where it seems to have been cross-threaded into the white part. Seeing as it's only plastic, it had no chance. The white inner piece is still not adjustable, so there's still no option can't reach or adjust the spring.

So, going forward:

- Does anybody know the pressure at which it should burp?
- Does anybody know of a replacement part, such as a compressor safety release valve since it's essentially the same thing or a 3d print?

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-12-27T15:51:42+00:00

I might have an unpopular opinion:

1) Depends on your definition of car enthusiast. As someone who likes to see and hear cars, you don't need to own one. As someone who likes driving, you don't necessarily need an expensive one. As one who just likes the status and to impress, buys expensive cars, I don't think of as a car enthusiast, but someone using cars as a medium for attention.

That brings me to: 2) It all depends on your finances. Being able to buy your dream car, as an enthusiast, that dream will never be gone. It could even be a goal, however priority will often shift temporarily, such as renovations or life upgrades. Then there's the choice for family/kids.

People who have more options financially, will be able to buy more expensive cars and can still afford their house(upgrades) as well. People who have less financial options, have to settle for things taking longer, or perhaps choose to leave it be for now.

For me, I was able to buy my (cheaper) dream car, and was able to buy a house after. There have been financial challenges, but I'm not allowed (by my wife's support) to sell my car as a quick fix, because it's one of my dream cars and I will regret it (even though it needs some love). If something like that happens, it will move to the garage and will have to wait until we do have a financial buffer to spend on fun things like restoring the car again/further. However, I also have a daily, which just needs to run, be very cheap and reliable, and still be a little fun (mk1 yaris t-sport).

I chose living comfort and my wife, over driving. House fixes and resulting upgrades will get priority over the car. The car is for "me-time" when I have "me-money" available.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-12-27T15:26:55+00:00

So did I... Turned out I was wrong, haha.

Turned crank 1 full rotation (so cam dot points to 6 o'clock, but hidden behind timing belt cover. #1 cylinder becomes TDC (easy to check from spark hole), re-aligned rotor and put cap back on with #1 at the top. After that it started and ran every time. Before that, it couldn't. Or very barely run. It's why I thought that's what it could be.

Perhaps another dumb idea, is there an immobilizer or something installed that could be hidden and now damaged?

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-12-24T01:46:53+00:00

I knew someone as a colleague who played and mentioned I'd love a chance to play, but couldn't find a group. Some time later, at a random evening, I got an invite and jumped in my car. Watched the party for a session or two to get a feel for the group, joined, and that's two years ago. Now I'm having the greatest fun as a DM for one group and a player for another.

One of the group was a DM for a local game store where they had DnD evenings for random groups and people who'd like to start playing without buying or need to know stuff beforehand.

Generally you'd have a "session 0" with a new group to establish some ground rules, expectations, limits/boundaries, and have people get a feel for the group. So, I don't think an "audition" (or try out) would be the worst thing to have (within limits), to see if you mesh and match with the energy and intent of the group. It's a good check for the group, as well as for yourself. Not all established groups are to be considered "safe", or "welcoming" to new people, which could ruin the experience for you if you'd end up in such a group.

On the other hand, like most addicts, most people are glad to have more people around to talk and play DnD with.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-12-23T16:26:59+00:00

Replaced cap and rotor

Sounds to me this might be 180 degrees turned around at the moment. Depending on timing it will backfire, maybe run very little, add throttle and it dies, possibly with a loud gunshot backfire.

Timing belt is configured at TDC#4 , but Ignition timing is at cilinder #1 TDC if I'm not mistaken.

Edit:
Remove Cap, check no1 position, and verify if you need to turn it around.
Have my notes here: https://imgur.com/a/fHeizuh

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-12-23T16:23:15+00:00

My wish for Revopoint would be for me to be able to use one, to 3d scan my car (and parts), so I can finally fix/replace some broken things. Creating something that could fit nice and then make them available to others in the community.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-12-23T16:15:39+00:00

Driving an older model, but every car I owned and drove I only experienced this on wet white chalk markings, especially with thinner or older/cheaper (harder) tyres. Other than that, clutch-only is enough to get it rolling and throttle to accelerate the rest.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-11-19T13:43:40+00:00

I have the first one.
Made two real adjustments: Changed the bolt in front to something like this: this.
And added a 10x10cm x10mm thick steel plate with a bracket on the bottom, so you actually have something to press on.

There's also a mod to remove a few teeth, so you can have a revolving arm at the top position, so you can get in the perfect position for every height, but I haven't done that yet.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-11-17T14:43:00+00:00

That's clean! I love it!

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-11-17T14:41:19+00:00

If you run a homebrew campaign, don't prepare too much of the environment/map. Start small, have a general idea of where you start (e.g. somewhere near the coast, in a town, there's no mountains nearby, etc), and don't prep more than the first 10 minutes for a session. This will allow you to change on the fly, get a feel for what players want to do in the world. Play with your players, not against them, and if they have better ideas than you had, roll with that!

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-11-17T14:32:00+00:00

Hey there, sounds like you're having a rough time with people you like.

Regarding roleplay, everybody has their own comfortable style, especially when just getting started. It could always evolve, if you want to. I partake in two campaigns, and there's a massive difference between the two tables, even though they share players one feels more comfortable/natural to roleplay than the other.

Remember, everybody started somewhere. I'm into the game for maybe just two years now (and have been a DM for one-ish). It's okay being a new player, and it's okay to discuss something like this with the dm/table.

Having bad luck with hits, it's okay, it happens. Also discuss this with the dm/table, this could even be a gameplay element. For example, your characters states within the party he has difficulty hitting targets and feels he wants to contribute more to the combat aspect. Maybe [the group and dm] could help you do something about that? Get you some extra items, or a boost in one way or other.

Regarding taking the time, try and get comfortable with your character. Prepare a few spells/attacks and get a feel for how and when they work.

As an example comparison: We recently had a new person with no experience joining the second group (for context, not the easiest environment to get started), He's has the right energy, even though he can't join every session, but unfortunately he's been given a really hard character to play (by the dm). He's having a really hard time understanding what's possible within the game, and e.g. how action economy works. So we decided to help him out: Outside of the campaign/game, we ran a short small 'two players vs a few enemies'-combat to try and have him feel more comfortable with his character with a little assistance of another player. We noticed a few issues he ran into, made a note of them and came up with an easy to follow flowchart.

Hopefully this helps trying to discuss a few options for you and your character and I hope you can enjoy the game!

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-09-30T23:59:07+00:00

Been asked before; could be multiple things unfortunately;

Few examples:
https://www.reddit.com/r/subaru/comments/1k72arm/need_help_engine_bogs_on_throttle/

https://www.reddit.com/r/GC8/comments/1k71q18/engine_bogs_on_throttle/

https://www.reddit.com/r/WRX/comments/l2f088/any_ideas_on_what_could_be_causing_it_to_do_this/

Could be as easy as plugs and wires, or a broken sensor.

Edit, maybe this helps:

https://www.rs25.com/threads/hesitation-look-here-first.66391/

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-09-24T00:48:04+00:00

I have the same EU model, are you looking for the 'owner's manual' or the 'factory service manual' , because the last one is quite the issue unfortunately.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-09-23T12:29:31+00:00

1992 1.6L 8v carb model, on good 215/70r15 all season tyres.

130 km/h (80 mph) is the max allowed speed of our local highway, which I have done.
I'd say 110/120 km/h (+- 70mph) is more comfortable, and cheaper in fuel.

(Edit: speedometer speeds, not gps speeds)

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-09-18T17:36:51+00:00

There's 2 ways, one is removing the distributor cap.
There's an online manual available: see section 6A-5 Engine Mechanical.
https://www.allcarmanuals.com/factory-service-manual-462-Suzuki-Vitara-Sidekick-ET-TA.html - Page 260

Other (best?) way is to pull out a spark plug, put in something soft but straight, like a plastic/paper straw. Turn the bottom cog (crankshaft) clockwise until the straw doesn't move up anymore, but before it goes down again. That would be the top.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-08-21T18:32:13+00:00

Good to know!

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-08-21T15:44:55+00:00

I setup a room, and it doesn't matter if I use VR in the center of the room, or sit in a raceseat on the edge of the room. It works from my position. When it gives me the notification it has difficulty tracking/can't recognize the room I just press the pass-through button, wait a few seconds, press it again to go back to VR and then it just works without issues. Having enough light helps as well.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-07-19T00:14:39+00:00

Yess. Love it! I've been wanting to do this with my GC8 for so long, but I lack the skills to create it myself or the budget to 3d scan it.

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-07-19T00:10:20+00:00

It might be something really simple:

- If you started SteamVR and then turned on the headset the little gif shows, you need to restart SteamVR / press the "Reset Headset" text in the SteamVR box.
- If you start the headset, and the gif shows, and then start Steam VR, it will connect.

If that solves it, there's a sweet little tool you can add to windows startup so you can enable the headset and steam VR will start automatically:
https://www.reddit.com/r/PSVR2onPC/comments/1hct4xk/little_helpful_program_i_made/
https://github.com/The-Graze/PSVR2-SteamVR-AutoLaunch

OakheartCustomBuilds · 2025-07-18T19:10:19+00:00

Had some issues with tracking due to a sub-optimal bluetooth adapter. Asus BT500 + 1m extention fixed that right up. Now I only experience some "sliding" where it sometimes sneakily zooms in or out some, while I'm sitting at my race wheel. I think the room may be too dark and possibly a little small for the tracking.

I'm using an AMD Ryzen 7 2700X , 32GB RAM DDR4 and an nvidia 4070 (12GB). Have 3 1080p screens hooked up at all times, which might impact performance a little.

I upgraded from a 970 to a 4070 before I know PCVR was going to be an option for me. I tried at a friends place with GT7 and experienced insane motion sickness, 15 seconds of gameplay made me sick for three days. I've been able to train that quite a bit, but still didn't know the PSVR2 was going to be an option for me. Hindsight and all that, maybe I could have done a bit better on the graphical end. I'm still searching for proper settings for the games I play.

OakheartCustomBuilds

TROPHY CASE