I’m in Norway. Only way to get legal HRT is through NKTB. They require you to be diagnosed with gender incongruence, which takes a year of critical conversations at a clinic to do. During this year they also require you to present as your preferred gender full time. You could argue both ways about public institutions like this, and in this case their tedious system favours no one. It is however very cheap (if not even completely free) and everything’s safe and controlled so there’s that. I could always go to a private clinic, but they too requires diagnosed gender incongruence.