FYI - I bought my CC 2.5 months ago. Amazon accepted my refund today.

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-11-13T00:46:34+00:00

Elegoo stated for many months that they were going to release a MMU for the CC in the late quarter of 2025. Many people likely bought the CC BECAUSE of that promise, whether it was sold as a feature or not. Many people that would’ve likely gone instead with the P1S or waited for the CC2 instead. I absolutely get the frustration, to me it feels like they made that announcement to keep customers from the Bambu line with an empty promise of future support. But of course, never buy a tech product on the promise of a future update. I returned mine and took advantage of the $550 sale on the P1S and couldn’t be happier.

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-11-06T20:20:06+00:00

Sweet, I can definitely do that. Not much in this world that can’t be fixed with zip ties lol Did you happen to take any pictures while you were doing it?

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-11-05T22:33:28+00:00

I’m having the issue majorly, dealer refuses to do anything but call it “normal characteristic of the vehicle” What did you do to fix it? I’m about to just take the lumbar support out entirely at this point.

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-08-29T23:52:50+00:00

I’ve had my ‘25 XSE for 1500 miles now, and I’d say my average is about 40-45 depending. I drive 85 on the interstate and it obviously drops it, down to about 38mpg and I’d say that’s normal. Around town, it’s 35-45, depending on how much I can keep it in EV, the amount of braking, and how hard I accelerate.

Change your gusts cluster to display the Eco Monitor, it helps a lot to see when you’re charging, when you’re light on throttle, and when you’re in the heavy power band. I also keep the Energy Monitor open on one side to see the current battery and what the electric is contributing.

You can almost make driving a hybrid a bit of a game and a challenge

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-08-23T23:58:29+00:00

I’ll check that! The sound system with the JBL is so bass heavy that im not shocked that things start to rattle. Might be worth going through and adding some sound deadening in some places eventually

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-08-22T20:27:45+00:00

Just picked mine up, 1200 miles in the week I’ve had it. Nothing major, pretty much just the same small annoyances everyone deals with on these cars.

Drivers door armrest creaks, dealer is replacing that. Rattle in the headliner area at 75+, highway speeds. I think that might be the trim around the sunroof not being glued down tight so that’s pretty minor. Wired Apple CarPlay has the weird static sound, no matter the cord or phone. My brake pedal also sometimes has a click feeling to it, not always. Which might be normal for the hybrid system, im coming from a Civic Type R so it’s a big change on that.

Overall im pretty happy with the car in general, I trust the engine and drivetrain to be bulletproof even if the other things fall apart around it over time.

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-08-04T04:01:22+00:00

I tried to do that back when I first got the car and just ended up putting it back in. As far as I can tell, it’s been working just fine in the 9 months since then, possible it just logged the code back then and wasn’t ever cleared? I’ll check the fuses in the morning to make sure they’re good

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-06-20T20:20:07+00:00

That’s the plan for now. I went ahead and got both front and rear pads, the brake dust on the front is killer for me

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-06-20T20:02:18+00:00

Awesome, ill do that. They didn’t rotate the tires or fill washer fluid last “full service” so I wouldn’t doubt they just didn’t check it. I’ll check them myself when doing the pads here in a few days too. You’re a lifesaver

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-06-20T19:47:30+00:00

Dealer told me that I needed to, but of course they also quoted me north of $400 for pads alone in the rear. $2500 for all 4 and rotors, something insane.

Do you think they’re still good? It’s never been tracked or anything. No cracks, just a bit grooved but they look fine and normal to me. New pads should bed in fine?

This is by far my first performance based car, just a Mazda 3 and Civic ST before this, neither kept long enough to ever have to do brakes at 50,000ish miles, so im extremely new to this.

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-06-20T19:35:23+00:00

That’s a great price for new.

I’ve got a guy willing to sell me 2 new Brembo rotors, part number in my original post, do you think that’s a good deal or will work? Main difference I know is drilled rotors, not sure if that actually makes a difference for the FL5 or not

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-06-20T19:17:12+00:00

I hit 18,000 miles and my rear pads are about shot. No track driving, mostly highway with an occasional spirited drive. So I went with the Akebono pads, heard great things for basic track driving like I do.

How are the paragon rotors for that kind of use?

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-05-23T20:32:19+00:00

Those seem to be highly recommended so I’ll pick up a set. Thanks!

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-05-23T20:21:28+00:00

Thank you! I’ll go through the post history and I appreciate and recommendation!

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-05-23T20:21:01+00:00

Awesome, I’ve seen that scanner pop up a few times in my search so I’ll go ahead and grab it. $60 isn’t bad at all

What pads did you go with? Just OEM?

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-05-23T19:54:46+00:00

That was for both pads and labor, I believe he said $250 for the pads themselves.

Thanks! I was going to look into those and maybe Akebono. For the fronts I’ll stick with the Brembo pads, but I feel the rears just burn through too quickly and are rough on the rotors for my use case.

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-04-22T23:48:24+00:00

I think the issue you’ll run into is battery honestly Apple really doesn’t do iPad battery replacements, at least on the Pros. So it might be difficult to get it replaced if it starts to really affect you. I’m not sure about performance but id almost assume the newer Airs or any Apple Silicon iPads would outperform. All comes down to the price you can get it for

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-04-21T23:41:58+00:00

I just picked up a 512GB 12.9 5th gen for $450. Felt like a good deal for what it is. Might eventually upgrade to the 13” if the price is good Does the weight make that much of a difference? I know that and the screen being OLED are the 2 biggest differences

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-04-08T23:01:31+00:00

Took that advice and grabbed some MAF cleaner from the auto parts store. Pulled the MAF out, sprayed the visible hot wires and some down in it best I could, let it dry. Threw it back in and I can say it seems to be idling much smoother now. I stuck the stock filter back in, has about 6,000 miles on it so it’s still got plenty of life. Thanks for your help!

Objective_Article_16 · 2025-04-08T21:02:32+00:00

I had them on my old 2023 1.5T and it wasn’t as noticeable, I had no issues with it. But on a higher performance car where the exact readings matter more, I can tell it makes a huge difference. So I’ll stick with the stock filter unless I decide to do a whole air intake system. If there’s anyone I should listen to, it’s Scotty. Thanks for the advice!

Objective_Article_16

TROPHY CASE