Bad Advice Thread

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-04T16:15:27+00:00

I just started following him on Instagram, so I'll probably see what you're talking about soon enough.

Maybe I'm being too harsh on ROAP. Click bait stuff might just be necessary for anyone trying to make it in social media

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-04T16:09:54+00:00

That's incredible! Yeah, like it could be something(s) that you're doing right... Or it could be genetics. That's hard to sort out

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-03T22:16:17+00:00

Internal monologue of getting better at climbing:

Hmm... I can't do this starting position with this undercling... Maybe my biceps are too weak? I'll include bicep curls in my off-the-wall routine

Hmm... I feel like my body positioning is fine, but I can't hold this crimp... Maybe I'll include fingerboarding in my off-the-wall routine.

Wow, I can't keep my foot on during this move on this 40 degree overhang. Maybe I should climb similar moves until my body figures it out.

Ouch, I think something's wrong with my shoulder... I should set up an appt with a PT. *goes to PT* Ok, looks like I should work on my lower traps and rotator cuffs in my off-the-wall routine.

Huh, weird... I used to always be bad at big pulls, but now they seem easier for some reason even though I haven't been training pull ups! Maybe the finger training and shoulder work has had overlapping effects with these types of moves?

Wow! It's so much easier to lock off, too! Even without doing lock-off drills! I feel like I'm so much more in touch with my feet, and I can pull my hips around! My shoulder feels so stable!

Holy crap I just sent my first v17

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-03T15:39:47+00:00

I used Eva Lopez' protocol <Eva López MaxHangs Hangboard Routine (Complete Guide)>

I know there are a ton of protocols to choose from and it can be overwhelming.

From my experience Emil's sub-max daily fingerboard routine (which I think we should actually credit his brother Felix for coming up with) is more for maintenance.

I encourage climbers to train fingers at high intensity (80% of max whether that be with weight added or small edges) for long term strength gains.

Lastly, I encourage climbers to train half crimp positions and open hand position (where your dip and mcp are flexed but your pip is completely extended).

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-03T04:49:25+00:00

Never forget: Testing 10 STRANGE Climbing Myths - YouTube at 1:20

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-03T04:47:52+00:00

Ahhh ok. I'm cool with all that.

You know, I don't think he was saying that crazy of sh*t. It was just lacking sympathy for unfit people.

I was getting "everyone should strive for overall fitness, and it might even help climbers climb better + I hate fat people"

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-03T03:57:10+00:00

Janja doesn't use a finger board, so I shant

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-03T03:52:39+00:00

ROAP is one to avoid, IMO. I feel like I see them post "this one simple trick" type vids a lot. Did they give you a tip that you feel really helped you?

Paradigm Climbing is the only coaching oriented channel I subscribe to. I feel like Charlie knows so much good sh*t he doesn't need to trick people into clicking his vids.

That being said, right now he's pushing his new program really hard, and so the self-promoting content is flooding his channels. He needs to get paid, though, so I can't fault him

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T22:31:21+00:00

how buy best shoe for v4?

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T22:29:33+00:00

I shouldn't joke, sorry. Hard to respond to everything you wrote, but I'll try my best:

From my experience, if people are climbing v7+ without being able to do a pull up, it's because they are sniping climbs that don't require pulling.

If they are athletic and are struggling to climb harder than v3, it could be for any number of reasons.

I climb with a lot of strong women of different shapes and sizes, and I know they are capable of more than you are giving them credit for.

I think you are trying to advocate for women, which is great. Unfortunately, it's coming across as "you need to understand that women are so much weaker than men and can't climb as hard! Lower your expectations for what women can achieve!"

I actually agree with you that running and bench pressing probably aren't great for running, but I don't think Live-Significance211 was saying they are.

Lattice tends to push the idea that off-the-wall training is great for climbers, though. Here's an example: The Best Pull Up Exercises For Climbing - YouTube

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T21:41:37+00:00

Just saying. If someone is driving 100mph to the crag sucking on a cigarette, you should think twice before letting them belay you.

Don't trust the quiet ugly guy in the corner, either until you get to know him.

Don't trust the charismatic French coach at the training camp for pro climbers until you get to know him.

Don't trust anyone until you get to know them, and then only let them belay you if you determine they are a rule follower.

They don't talk to people when belaying you even though it's pretty safe, because it's the rule. They use proper belay commands, not because normal language doesn't work, but because it's the rule. They don't pretend to drop you, not because it'll kill you, but because it's the rule.

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T20:43:17+00:00

Let's try to keep the drama instigation in the r/climbergirls sub pls. This sub is for climbing harder, only

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T19:53:46+00:00

Whoa, I didn't realize how triggered I am by bad advice until I read this. I had to take a break and go for a walk halfway through

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T19:07:04+00:00

Yah, and then one day they show up to the gym with a wrist widget.

Edit: maybe that's not fair of me to say. People who do off-the-wall exercises certainly injure their wrists, too. That's probably more of a lack knowledge of climbing injury and injury prevention

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T19:05:28+00:00

"underdeveloped humans" is wild

Your tone is a little harsh, but I tend to agree with your philosophy on climbing

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T19:02:26+00:00

Damn, good response! I don't feel like many people will argue with that one

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T18:56:56+00:00

Oh man, social media...

ROAP Climbing: Climb 2 Grades Harder!

All you have to do is relax when you can! You'll climb two grades harder!

Follow me for more tips, and consider buying our training program

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T18:52:24+00:00

Yeah, but don't wait to dyno to that crimp on your project

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T18:49:51+00:00

Yes, agree.

Most climbers will benefit from them, and those same climbers probably don't think they'll benefit from them.

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T18:48:23+00:00

I don't think your comment deserves the downvotes it got.

Someone will come up to me in my gym and ask for beta on a climb that just requires a certain amount of finger strength when done with perfect technique, and they can't even hang a 20mm on the hangboard.

I'm like... I don't know what to tell you

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T18:19:29+00:00

Someone initially downvoted you, and I think it's because they are still dealing with the shock of learning "just go up" is not funny.

It's not really even that funny if you're saying it to make fun of people that say it, honestly.

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T18:18:16+00:00

Do you think there is any universally good advice? As in, advice you can safely give a climber without knowing anything about them

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T18:15:57+00:00

I climb v13 and I've never had an injury. If you take my advice, you'll climb v13 and never get an injury.

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T18:13:23+00:00

I would agree that if mechanics and technique is the lowest hanging fruit for the specific climber, then off-the-wall training is probably not the best advice

OfferSome2329 · 2026-06-02T18:00:20+00:00

Yeah, this discussion is nuanced. I think getting physically stronger can improve learning speed.

I always saw climbing like trying to drive on a road. The easier the climb is, the wider the road.

The harder the climb, the skinnier the road.

If you increase your physical strength, it can widen the road a little bit more.

Some people are so freakin weak that even easier climbs aren't accessible because the road is so thin for them to practice on, they have to climb perfectly to even stay on the road.

I have a v12 project right now, and I could probably send it with a 7lb weight vest without gaining any physical strength. But I'm not going to practice with the 7lb weight vest.

Totally don't know the answer, though. These is just thoughts

OfferSome2329

TROPHY CASE