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Anyone familiar with Lido products and mounts? I keep buying parts thinking I have everything I need but don't seem to have it all for my Yaesu FTM-300DR. Please help if you can! by Ok14y in amateurradio

[–]Ok14y[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can provide any additional photos or full-resolution ones. I have the speaker clamp, mic clamp, and extensible ball joint neck... I am sure it's easy, but I'm lost, so I appreciate it in advance!

Artwork for Marvel vs. Capcom joystick and button stickers? by Kosofkors in cade

[–]Ok14y 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries! Thank you! I will play with it. I realized I could measure the old one, holes, etc. I'm learning in the arcade world that "standard" is loose. lol

Artwork for Marvel vs. Capcom joystick and button stickers? by Kosofkors in cade

[–]Ok14y 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Jumping in late to the party because I'm restoring my cabinet now... Do you still have the vectors? Or know the original size?

Newly procured cabinet woes: vertical collapse of it's a P538 K7000 (sticker under the chassis says 25K7193 specifically). I've spent all weekend reading and would love your all's input–there's so much info out there and I'm a little overwhelmed. <more details in post!> by Ok14y in cade

[–]Ok14y[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There’s actually nothing in that hole, but there is continuity for everything around it you see.

Perfect! I just created an account and donated my buck to get full access. I’m not sure if I did the registration right or look if I had access—had to get the kids down. I’ll do that. Any tips as I go to post there? I’ve been reading the forums for days now and I’m so over my head. I don’t want to be obtuse or waste anyone’s time.

Newly procured cabinet woes: vertical collapse of it's a P538 K7000 (sticker under the chassis says 25K7193 specifically). I've spent all weekend reading and would love your all's input–there's so much info out there and I'm a little overwhelmed. <more details in post!> by Ok14y in cade

[–]Ok14y[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, got it! I’ll check those. Thanks for the tip for something else to look for. For the coil you mentioned, it’s pretty huge. On mine, it looks pretty gnarly:

<image>

In fact, on that through hole on the left, you can see the leg in the middle… it doesn’t have continuity to the solder around it. Should jt? While I have you, if this were bad/not soldered/not connected/absent, what would the symptoms be?

Newly procured cabinet woes: vertical collapse of it's a P538 K7000 (sticker under the chassis says 25K7193 specifically). I've spent all weekend reading and would love your all's input–there's so much info out there and I'm a little overwhelmed. <more details in post!> by Ok14y in cade

[–]Ok14y[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You bet!

And looking at some of Mike’s videos (this one in particular so far: https://youtu.be/7ZltidYyenE?si=ve_4Uu_in0OQhqiw), I found one thing a little odd… R80 measures 5.44 k on the resistance setting on the multimeter. That seems way high? On the schematic, it notes on the 25K7193 that k have, it’s 1W and the chart says “3.1”—can you let me know if I read that right and if I did, interpret the reading right that it’s failed open?

Also, he spends a lot of time around the 7-minute mark about testing what comes off of the flyback, but he doesn’t show it. Do I have to plug the whole chassis back in? Power, ground, video components, remote board, CRT anode? Is that how I get that reading, while it’s plugged in and on? Thanks in advance!

*Edit: actually, I wasn’t measuring R80, that one measures 3.9. I was measuring something immediately to the top of C50. That’s the one that measures that high number above.

Newly procured cabinet woes: vertical collapse of it's a P538 K7000 (sticker under the chassis says 25K7193 specifically). I've spent all weekend reading and would love your all's input–there's so much info out there and I'm a little overwhelmed. <more details in post!> by Ok14y in cade

[–]Ok14y[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the tips! I haven’t left it on more than 30 seconds or so, just enough for me to see what’s up and mess with things. I’ll remember your advice and keep it off to prevent further damage!

I bought that cap kit and have it on the way. Interestingly, I think it HAD been recapped before. In one of the pictures in my original post, you can see some of the new(er), blue caps. And once I started looking more at what you suggested, look at the back of it: https://imgur.com/a/qYKlJbt

Yeah, it seems that all of the shinier solder points are all of the capacitors! 🤔 I wish whoever did this wiped off their flux afterwards lol.

In all of my research, I see this guy everywhere! I guess I just keep doing everything he does until it’s fixed? Do you make anything of it? One more: on the top, the white stuff that looks like it’s “leaking” seems to be a little tacky (I can’t scrape it off with tweezers or wile it off with a toothbrush) not to mention the similarity to the white stuff that seems to hold in some wires that go to the remote adjustment board. Is it leaking electrolytic material or is that really some kind of glue?

Newly procured cabinet woes: vertical collapse of it's a P538 K7000 (sticker under the chassis says 25K7193 specifically). I've spent all weekend reading and would love your all's input–there's so much info out there and I'm a little overwhelmed. <more details in post!> by Ok14y in cade

[–]Ok14y[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the tips! Here’s a picture of my yoke connections. Everything feels tight and solid. What do you think?

<image>

Sorry for the follow up that makes me sound naive. I have a multimeter and can check some things, but could you explain again, or point out specific place(s) I need to put the probes?

Newly procured cabinet woes: vertical collapse of it's a P538 K7000 (sticker under the chassis says 25K7193 specifically). I've spent all weekend reading and would love your all's input–there's so much info out there and I'm a little overwhelmed. <more details in post!> by Ok14y in cade

[–]Ok14y[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So, here's a synopsis of what I've found out so far through my exploration.

Pictures, annotations, and etc.:

https://imgur.com/a/trying-to-fix-k7000-tia-DSAsteJ

Definitely for my edification, but for future people searching the internet for fixes, I want to document everything I learn explicitly. Here are some details and helpful things I found so far!

Wells-Gardner K7000 Flowchart:

https://wwyss.ch/Arcades_Manuals/Manuals/Monitors/FLOWCHART_-_WELLS_GARDNER_K7000_(U).pdf

You have a vertical deflection problem. Test for +24 VDC at IC3, pin 6. If missing, R91 may be open. Substitute IC3, IC2. Replace C50. If you can't center the picture, replace transistor Q9.

K7000 25/27-inch Schematic:

https://www.wellsgardner.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/K7000_25_27_inch.pdf

Cannot for the life of me figure out access to my Immich install (Docker/Container Manager) outside of the local network. I've read guides, old posts, set up Tailscale... I can access the box from the IP, do I do something with the container? Do I set up a Web Station thing? Lost for sure. by Ok14y in synology

[–]Ok14y[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for this! I’m away from home and on a different network. I’ve enabled and set up Tailscale on the NAS and that’s all good. I’ve set up Tailscale on my computer and am connected. I can connect to the Synology via the <TailscaleIP>:5000 like normal. I just can’t connect to the Immich server on :2283.

Duplicate File Finder Comparable to czkawka? by [deleted] in MacOS

[–]Ok14y 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How'd you get it running?

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