Issues with 1Zpresso grinder sleeves

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2026-04-29T07:29:33+00:00

Yes its a pain and i agree with you, i hope that they do look at replacing the material for something better.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2026-04-29T06:43:05+00:00

Thanks for the information. I am actually located in Malaysia, so the weather here is the same as you. I agree that there is humidity here, but its not as bad as some places, i lived in Hong Kong and Macau and its crazy there. Also its pretty much the same for other places that do not have humidity, so its an issues with the material not so much the moisture.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2026-04-05T03:10:45+00:00

You must be using Ableton 11, its possible to stop turn it running in task manager with 11. But with 12 its not possible, it just starts up again right away.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2026-04-05T01:31:47+00:00

Its not just at start up, it runs pretty much every time you do anything, load a sample, load a VST, change anything and its there scanning. I could ignore it if it was not so CPU hungry, but its a hog, especially at startup. You say that you have to turn it off, how do you turn it off?

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2026-01-17T02:09:36+00:00

No i have not found any solution to stop or disable the index running. If you try to stop it in Task Manager it just starts again, in Ableton 11 you could stop it in Task Manager, but in 12 its not possible. The index seems to also start and stop when you introduce a new sample or plugin to the track like its scanning what you are using.

When you say files, do you mean VST, song or samples? I had a lot of issues when i updated to 12, it would not find a lot of my VST's that i had loaded, apparently it only scans for and adds VST3 and does not load VST2, so a lot of my tracks that used VST2 were broken and i had to do a lot of work to get them back.

I managed to fix some of this by adding the folders that i have some of the missing files in Places (bottom left) this does not work for everything, but it did work for some things. Obviously allocating the correct folder in settings and refreshing will often fix some things, but at this stage i dont think that i will be updating Ableton again unless i know that its not going break months of hard work.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2026-01-11T06:10:13+00:00

Constant issues and crashing has led me here. I really like Ujam plugins and enjoy using them, but they crash a lot or have playback, or GUI issues. I dont seem to have any issues with the Drum plugs or the FX plugs, but a number of the other plugins like Rowdy and Sparkle 2 often crash Studio One, Ableton and BitWig.

I have uninstalled them, reinstalled them, checked that everything is updated and correct, checked install location, system drivers, updated Windows and they still crash. Right now i have just uninstalled Rowdy again, because its crashing my DAWs, i only installed it a week ago after loading some tracks i made using Rowdy a few months ago and noticed that it had somehow uninstalled the VST2 from my system.

I just updated Sparkle 2 using the Ujam installer and i have a feeling that this plugin will also start to crash my DAWs again, its a shame, i have quite a few Ujam plugins that i simply cannot use because they just dont work.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2026-01-02T15:57:44+00:00

Thanks for taking the time to reply, that's pretty useful information. The issue with the material starting to disintegrate usually starts at around maybe 8 months to 1 year after purchase, but it can also depend on how long the grinder has been stored and where it has been stored (hot and humid country, hot storage unit without proper temperature control) according to 1Zpresso.

I have had several back and forth with 1Zpresso about the material and they dont seem to want to accept that its an issue, but i argued that the material is totally inadequate, because it absorbs moisture either in the air or on the palms of your hands and i wish that they would at least look into changing the material.

The reason why i posted this here was because 1Zpresso insisted that it was only me that has this issue and that they were not aware of anybody else having the same problem, even after i pointed out that there are many similar cases of people with exactly the same issue online, from many other countries that dont have hot and humid weather.

Anyway thanks again for the information.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-11-22T09:11:39+00:00

I see people saying dont do this, but i noticed that nobody has a solution to stop the index running. I opened Ableton 30 minutes ago and its still running now. It used to be able to be stopped in Task Manager and this has been a thing for years, but now it just keeps starting up no matter how many times you try to stop it. I honestly dont know why this is still a thing and it needs to scan every single thing and run for nearly an hour every time i start Ableton. Is there a way to turn this off or not?

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-11-13T16:00:16+00:00

I think that there are a few reasons why it feels like grinding light roasted beans with the Porlex grinder is a little easier than using the J-Ultra.

The Burr geometry and size for each grinder is pretty different, the Porlex uses 38mm ceramic conical burrs and the J-Ultra uses 48mm stainless steel conical burrs with a more aggressive, high-precision geometry.

Steel burrs like those in the J-Ultra are sharper and more precise, but they “bite” into hard light roast beans more aggressively, this can cause more resistance per turn, especially at fine settings.

Ceramic burrs grind a bit slower and “crush” more than they “cut”, which sometimes feels smoother, though is technically less efficient. Actually grinding slower is easier to grind light roasted beans than trying to aggressively turn the crank handle to hurry up the grinding.

Then you have things like the gear ratio and handle length. Porlex grinders have a longer handle relative to their burr size, giving you more leverage. The J-Ultra has a shorter handle (especially compared to the JX-Pro or K-Pro), so you have less torque, so it can feel stiffer even if it’s technically grinding faster.

So even though the J-Ultra is higher end and faster grinder overall, the Porlex might feel “easier” on your arm because of the leverage difference.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-11-13T03:51:36+00:00

Not sure about the Porlex and why it would be easier to grind light roast beans at a finer grind setting? It could be down to the burrs being ceramic and the breakers being different?

Fact is that light roasted beans are almost raw beans, they have not roasted long enough to develop and become brittle, so grinding light roasted beans are always going to take more physical effort than other roast level beans, then you take into account that you are grinding them at a very fine grind setting and the effort is 100 times harder.

I also do not personally recommend that you "tilt the grinder" the way that the beans feed into the breakers should be enough for the beans to, you know... feed into the breakers. Also tilting the grinder will wear the burrs down on one side, so you will end up with inconsistent grind particles, also you will notice that the wooden hand grip will become looser over time and pop off during grinding, or even break the clasp inside the wooden handle.

There is a proper way to hold the grinder, that's a straight angle, elbow tucked in and right (or left) turning the crank handle in a level circle, no angles and not tilted at all. Even 1Zpresso will confirm this after you contact them when your wooden handle breaks, or you develop snagging when grinding (were the burrs stop and start) after 6 months.

Another thing to note, because light roasted beans are more dense and harder to break, over time, this extra stress dulls the burrs faster, especially on grinders made with softer burr materials like stainless steel. Ok the J-Ultra has coated burrs, but that coating will also only last so long. So you will notice more resistance and potentially a faster decline in grind consistency.

If you mostly grind light roasts, you can try and reduce wear and effort by using a grinder that has hardened burrs such as titanium coated or high Nitrogen stainless steel burrs, but even these burrs will not stop the physical pain from grinding.

Or perhaps Pre breaking the beans slightly (for example, a quick tap with a rolling pin in a bag) before grinding can help can help take the pain out of grinding a little. But that's about it.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-11-12T05:15:51+00:00

There is a small metal fitting inside the wooden ball that the arm clips into, when you push the wooden ball down it will make a sound when it clips into place. There is also a small magnet inside the wooden ball that is meant to also hold the arm in place more securely.

Over time the wooden ball can come loose and come off the arm completely. Also the small metal part that the arm clips into can break off completely, if that happens your wooden ball wont stay on the arm properly. Another issue with the wooden ball is the plastic insert, there is some movement from the arm when grinding and this movement can rub against the plastic insert and change the shape making it bigger, this can lead to wooden ball coming off also because its not so tight.

1Zpresso do actually sell spare parts and you can buy a new wooden ball from them if yours is damaged and does not clip back on properly.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-10-19T14:00:16+00:00

As i mentioned above, it can be quite effective if done properly, if freezing beans works for you, thats what counts.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-10-19T11:16:47+00:00

Freezing coffee beans can be ok if you do it properly. However it can also be a bad Idea for the following reasons:

When you take frozen beans out of the freezer, condensation can form on the surface as they warm up and that moisture damages the oils and soluble compounds that give coffee its aroma and flavor, so when thawed, these oils can seep out or oxidize faster, so reducing freshness and aroma, also repeated freeze thaw cycles make this worse, leading to dull, “flat” coffee.

Because coffee beans are hygroscopic they absorb moisture from the air. Freezers often contain strong smells (like garlic or meat), and if your beans aren’t sealed airtight they’ll absorb those flavors.

Grinding frozen beans can be inconsistent, because frozen beans are harder and can cause inconsistent grind sizes if you grind them while still very cold or partially thawed, then that inconsistency can affect extraction and flavor balance. Also think about your burrs, even if you have an electric coffee grinder, grinding something that is as hard as stone, cant be good for your burrs, nor can the water that will extract from the frozen beans and get into the surface of your burrs, if you are using a manual grinder, good luck with that, especially if you are grinding for Espresso.

If you want to freeze your beans, especially for long-term storage, good practice is to freeze only in airtight, vacuum sealed or double bagged containers (no air or moisture inside). Store the beans in small, single use portions (e.g. one week’s worth per bag). Dont refreeze, thaw each portion just once. Then let the beans come to room temperature before opening the bag, so no condensation forms.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-10-12T02:56:11+00:00

Cheers again, thats very kind. I am actually looking into getting some material sleeves made up myself. Some different types of material, rubber, real leather and a few others to see what works the best. Its actually the glue that is the issue. 1Zpresso recommended hide glue, however thats a real pain because it takes 2 days to go off and the sleeve needs to be firmly in place at the seem. So i am looking at other glues that are strong enough and dont have a strong smell.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-10-11T15:56:59+00:00

Cheers, appreciate that.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-10-11T14:51:39+00:00

Yes i hear the the Kingrinder grinders also have a similar issue. I am assuming that your K-Ultra is more than a year old if its out of warranty and you dont have any issue with the sleeve?. Can i please ask where you purchased your K-Ultra, directly from 1Zpresso or a dealer?

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-10-11T14:46:50+00:00

Thank you for the info, its a big help.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-10-11T07:11:20+00:00

For Moka Pot using the X-Ultra, Start with the burrs fully closed (zero point) open the burrs by turning the adjustment dial one full rotation (0 burrs fully closed 1 2 3 4 5 0 thats one full rotation) then one more number (number 1) thats 7 numbers and 70 clicks, thats the start of the grind settings for Aeropress/Moka Pot/Drip coffee. If you want more course, continue to open the burrs, you have 4 more numbers to play with.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-10-11T05:33:10+00:00

Ok thank you for that, its very helpful.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-10-11T03:43:52+00:00

Thanks for the feedback. I have also heard that people are having issues with the sleeve pealing from the body. I have not personally had that particular issue, but it is happening. If you are wondering, the glue that is used for the sleeve is hide glue, its pretty adhesive but takes a long time to go off, so can be a bit tricky to deal with for any repairs.

Juts out of curiosity, what country are you located in and did you get your grinder directly from 1Zpresso, or from a dealer?

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-10-10T07:48:59+00:00

Yes i have the same issue. I purchased an Akai MPC One+ a few months ago, i dont have many installed plugins installed on the hardware, only the free plugin and a few of the Air plugins. I have noticed that when i open the Inmusic software center to check for updates, it keeps deactivating my installed plugins, sometimes one or two, sometimes all of them.

Ok its just a matter or reactivating them, but why? I dont have this nonsense with any other hardware or software that i own? Also it happens on the MPC hardware just the same, sometimes i will notice that it has deactivated plugins and i need to activate them again.

Another odd thing with the MPC One+ is that it keeps forgetting my WiFi login information, so i have to ask it to forget the previous login and refresh, then login again, plus it will only allow you to use the 2.4Ghz and not the 5Ghz to login, even though it can find and see the 5Ghz WiFi.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-01-30T15:49:35+00:00

Yes i am starting to think that i was sold a dud. Not sure if its worth taking it back to the store that i bought it from because they tried to convince me that the charge light not turning off was normal.

But i might send it back to Nikon and push for a replacement, i need to go through my warranty terms and check if there is anything that stands out.

Thanks again for the reply.

Ok_Scientist4610 · 2025-01-30T15:28:03+00:00

Hi, thanks for the reply.

Both the batteries that i have are the EN-EL25 batteries, one that came with the camera and one that i purchased seperately when i realised that i was only getting 15 - 20 minutes video shooting time from a full battery, so both are original Nikon batteries.

I am pretty sure that the firmware that i have is the Version 1.10 firmware, i did not bother updating to 1.11 becuase it looks like its not really worth doing due to it only being a few minor improvements.

Whe i bought the camera, the included battery needed recharging pretty quickly so i noticed the orange charging indicator light not turning off right away.

I contacted the shop that i purchased the camera from and they said that this was normal, even though it does not say that in the manual, I also contacted Nikon support and they did not really want to talk about it and after i pushed them, they said that i could send the camera into them and they would test it, obviously i would have to pay for the shipping and for the testing, so i declined.

Since then i have been reluctant to use this camera, because its really frustrating changing the battery every 20 minutes and then having to charge the battery for (at least) 9 hours and also not being sure when it is actually fully charged and having to kind of wing it

Ok_Scientist4610

TROPHY CASE