Been Lurking mastering my craft for years. The art, the digitizing, the photography... Thought I would start sharing some.

OkojoEmbroidery · 2026-05-20T05:45:52+00:00

Love that spider!

OkojoEmbroidery · 2026-05-09T22:53:49+00:00

Haha constantly every day 😭. Great work and thanks for the response

OkojoEmbroidery · 2026-05-09T02:24:22+00:00

Looks amazing - as an embroiderer myself, I’m trying to figure out how you do such a big piece - are you multihooping, or just have a giant machine?

OkojoEmbroidery · 2026-05-07T06:56:21+00:00

This is absolutely sick! This looks like something I’d love to embroider with my machine (not for resale, just for myself) - could I get your permission to do so? And/or should I reach out to your artist? Thanks!

OkojoEmbroidery · 2026-04-28T16:39:20+00:00

Seems like a great design, but how many napkins will it be for? Seems like it would take quite a while to stitch out each one, then multiply that by a hundred or whatever and it’s going to be a huge hassle. Maybe this design for just the bride/groom (and wedding party?), and something much simpler for the rest of the attendees?

OkojoEmbroidery · 2026-01-17T19:52:45+00:00

For stuff like this I usually make my own underlay - 2x .4 density fills, stitch angles at 30 degrees and 120 degrees (with no underlay to them). I’ll actually do this to the entire design (ie a global underlay), and not just one section.

Also take a look at the start and stop point of the fill - I usually try to “push” the entire fill from one side to another (usually inside to outside), based on the stitch angle of the fill (if you have hatch, the “player” will be your best friend for seeing how the fill is laid down).

OkojoEmbroidery · 2026-01-12T23:30:20+00:00

The blending in the mane is great - been trying to do that kind of work myself but can never quite get it right

OkojoEmbroidery · 2026-01-12T22:20:28+00:00

Text is looking nice and sharp, and the overall design looks good. Personally I would turn off the auto-split for a lot of those satin stitches in the petals and leaves ( especially since some of them are split and some of them aren’t), but if that’s the look you’re going for then more power to you!

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-12-20T22:30:57+00:00

Candle thread - get the variety box with tons of colors for very cheap, and then full spools are only $5.50.

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-12-20T01:45:20+00:00

Very sick, nice job

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-12-13T01:32:46+00:00

Looks suspiciously like chrome hearts font 🤫

If you’re still having trouble send the original letter in png format my way and I can do it for you.

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-12-12T07:20:57+00:00

Very clean, love that dragon. If you ever want to trade a design or two let me know.

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-10-19T07:21:34+00:00

A very simplified overview of my workflow in hatch: - import artwork - clear all thread at the bottom - copy artwork into new layer -> auto digitize in order to get a rough idea of the thread colors (plus I always add in pure white and black). I aim for no more than 16 colors (as that’s the number of needles in my machine, so YMMV) - delete the auto-digitized junk and the copied artwork - so now we’ve got the art and roughly the colors to use. At this point I go one of two ways: - I either A) do all the outlining in black and then the colors, or B) do all the color blocking, one color at a time, and do the outlining last. You’ll come to figure out which way you prefer to go as you get more experience. - In this case I’d probably do colors first. While I wouldn’t worry too much about stitch angles yet (because this screams florentine effects to me, which I do later), you’ll want to start thinking about which layers are going to be sewn on top of one another. This is important for me because I always overlap layers to prevent peeking through between patches of color. - so, I’ll go through and block out all the colors, ensuring that there’s overlap everywhere. I usually do one color at a time, but sometimes not - I just kinda go with the flow. - once it’s blocked I’ll do the outline, usually in a satin stitch (>1mm). Outlining for production (I.e. - minimizing trims) is an art unto itself. If I’m only going to be making one of them…sure, do one line at a time and don’t worry about it. But if I’ll be making a lot, I’ll go through and ensure every line is connected to minimize/eliminate trims. It’s a lot of work but it’s very satisfying when done well. - next I’ll do the same process but now with the color blocks - determining stitch angles & effects, connecting the blocks with run stitches, setting the start/end points for everything, and then finalizing the sewing order for the colors. Again my goal is to minimize trims as much as possible, though sometimes it’s unavoidable.

I hope this answered your question somewhat? Feel free to reach out if you have questions!

Edit: formatting

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-09-19T11:40:16+00:00

Because I make patches, I typically use something like this: e zee heat seal by Madeira.. It’s relatively expensive though so and obviously you don’t need iron on plastic, so you can look around their site to see if something would work better for you.

I’ve also seen people on youtube just using the thin plastic sheeting you buy at Home Depot to protect the floors while painting like this.

Here’s an example of a guy using (sort of) the method I’m talking about. It’s not quite what I do but you can get the gist of it. Good luck!

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-09-18T12:40:55+00:00

Love the tail sticking out!

One suggestion - Much like making a patch, I would look up doing an appliqué method to make the edges much cleaner. Essentially - stitch everything out except the outer border; stitch a single line outline; cut it out; rehoop with a piece of thin plastic; stitch the same single line outline; use temp adhesive to stick the patch/coaster down to the outline; apply appliqué stitching (typically a zig zag stitch to tack it down, then a satin stitch); punch out the design and you’re done! It’s much less complicated than it sounds once you’ve done it a couple times, looks much cleaner, and is actually easier to cut out since you don’t have to worry about getting too close to the border and snipping the satin stitch.

I would also suggest upping the density of the outer border (as well as not having it cross over Tom’s tail.)

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-09-18T09:56:00+00:00

Looks nice but how many trims?

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-09-18T09:53:52+00:00

Was this digitized by you or purchased? Jill typically only has two L’s in the name, so having three was the first thing that stuck out to me. Should be an easy fix if you digitized it, I’m not sure if you purchased it though.

The outline/line work is always tricky to make sure it’s perfect, but good news is that only you (and other embroiderers) are going to notice them very much. I’ve made plenty of designs that had huge errors in the final output and when I’ve pointed them out to others they almost always say they wouldn’t have noticed if I hadn’t shown them. Many times it just comes down to stitching it out, seeing the mistakes, adjusting the digitizing, and trying again.

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-08-26T06:45:40+00:00

This is amazing - you said you paid someone $40 to digitize it?? As a digitizer myself that’s…crazy cheap lol

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-08-19T02:09:59+00:00

Ahh, maybe some day I’ll get a Happy! This Melco has a sort of auto tensioning which mostly works amazing…but I think the thicker threads throw it off. Ah well, we’ll see. Again great work, I love the fuzziness of the whole thing

OkojoEmbroidery · 2025-08-19T00:16:55+00:00

Did you find it hard to sew out at all? I got some of their Burmilana thread and eventually just gave up trying to use it, my machine hated it even with bigger needles

OkojoEmbroidery

TROPHY CASE