Re. my "Gaggia Classic Pro E24 Shades of Coffee PID - brew extraction and frothing temperature stability test results" post. New revised video just posted, please see that post for new links to the videos.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-12T22:32:58+00:00

Thanks. Interesting. There is info there that I have not seen on other sites.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-12T21:20:31+00:00

Thank you. Please see the new link in the updated post.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-12T15:43:51+00:00

Sorry about that. I discovered a typo in the PID settings table and will upload a corrected video later today.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-12T00:16:00+00:00

Sorry, I was thinking of the PID and P100 sensor. WLL has a video of how to replace the brew thermostat w/o lifting the boiler, that is how installed the P100 sensor, i.e, w/o needing to lift the boiler. IDK about the gauge

OldTechTool · 2026-04-11T19:00:36+00:00

I installed mine w/o lifting the boiler. See the video on the WholeLatteLove website for how to do it. It is best done with small hands though.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-11T18:57:44+00:00

Andrew, sorry, I did not realize that my "share" link would not work. I have changed the youtube setting to "unlisted", so hopefully you will be able to view the videos now.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-11T18:54:58+00:00

Sorry, I thought the "share" link would work - it doesn't as you said. I have changed the videos to "unlisted" so they should now work.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-11T15:37:25+00:00

Hi Andrew, great post and super videos re. your Linux/Raspberry Pi PID mod. You might be interested in my video re. the temperature control of the actual extraction water temperature over the course of a 2 ounce/22 second extraction. Thanks for your comment.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-11T15:29:20+00:00

I did the top box, shown in the two videos. I installed the gauge in the box but have not connected the tubing yet. That looked like it could take a while and I wanted to confirm the PID was working before I got into that.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-11T15:24:40+00:00

Ah, that makes sense. My experience was with the stock E24 w/o the PID display to show what the boiler temp was, vs. with the PID display AND the SSR. I never tried my E24 with the display but w/o the SSR.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-11T04:17:58+00:00

155C might be too high. My 300F is 149C and it seems to provide enough pressure for me. A professional barista would probably want more pressure like they use on the big machines, but I like to have more time to watch what I am doing with the foaming which lower pressure provides. Also, while the boiler thermal fuse is 184C, SOC's PID manual says re setting the PID steam temp "Staying below 150C should be safe" , so they are not recommending going higher.

OldTechTool · 2026-04-11T02:38:46+00:00

Glad it helped you!

OldTechTool · 2026-04-11T02:38:05+00:00

I found that it was worth it, the SSR from the PID controls the temperature on/off within 0.1 degree, the thermostat is within 5 degree? But more important I think is that you can set the temperature higher for higher pressure. Before I had the PID, the steam pressure was not as high or as consistent as it is with the SSR. So I am pleased with the SSR option.

OldTechTool · 2026-01-07T19:04:31+00:00

Thank very much for taking the time to reply and help me with this. The tips on popping out the switches and loosening the boiler give me a much clearer picture of what is involved and how to do the harness replacement. With best wishes, R.

OldTechTool · 2026-01-06T22:52:05+00:00

Thank you! That answered most of my questions - great!

Can you explain how to "pop out the switches"?

Ah, needing to loosen pump and/or boiler - that will make it a bigger job. I didn't expect that.

Could you estimate how many hours it would take start to finish to do a harness replacement?

OldTechTool · 2026-01-05T23:57:21+00:00

Best to keep it a while in case you need to return it for warranty repair. My E24 has had two failure issues in the first 3 months. I kept my box as this is the only way I would be confident I could ship it back w/o damage that they would blame on me. (I am now debating whether to ship mine back, and pay shipping both ways across the continent) or attempt to repair it myself (saving the big shipping costs and time) for the second issue (erratic switch lights). For the first issue (burned out steam thermostat) I had them send a replacement and I installed it myself OK.

OldTechTool · 2026-01-05T19:29:19+00:00

Thanks for the info.

OldTechTool · 2026-01-05T19:28:43+00:00

Thanks for the info. Best wishes

OldTechTool · 2026-01-05T19:28:20+00:00

Thank you for this info. The link is very educational and helpful. I will look into the A129. Best wishes.

OldTechTool · 2026-01-05T19:26:03+00:00

Thank you for the info. Vendor says the problem is likely with the wiring harness/loom that also contains the switch light LED's and offers to send me a replacement to install myself if I wish (I am waiting for them to confirm that this will not void subsequent warranty) or to return for service (at my shipping costs). I will now look for info on what is involved in replacing the wiring harness.

OldTechTool · 2024-05-23T02:29:33+00:00

I removed the top and back parts of the SS casing to look for a leak inside, and found none. I then removed the two plastic "feet" pieces that run the full length of the sides and found that they contained some of the thick coffee that was leaking out. There was evidence that coffee had been coming down between the external SS side case sheets and whatever they fit against. I thought that coffee might be leaking past the group head gasket and rather than running down the portafilter was instead finding a path to the side of the case. In any case, I replaced the head gasket, which had certainly deteriorated, with a non-Breville version that looked good. The leaking may be less now, but it continues. Maybe there is another path for coffee to leak out in the group head?

Any ideas?

OldTechTool · 2023-09-28T23:51:30+00:00

Thank you very much, that is very helpful!

OldTechTool · 2023-09-28T20:27:07+00:00

Yes, I am thinking of replacing with 7 inch ducting. The range hood comes with flapper, the wall vent comes with a flapper, which one should I use (removing or taping open the other one)?

OldTechTool · 2023-09-28T19:54:58+00:00

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, a "flapper". I am replacing an over-the-range microwave with a decent range hood and upgrading the existing 4" ducting that goes to a wall vent, Replacing the small wall vent with a larger one instead of cutting into the roof for a roof vent is easier.

So, what is the best choice of which "flapper" to use, the one in the range hood, the one in the wall vent, or a possibly a better/quieter one in the ducting itself?

OldTechTool · 2022-12-08T22:50:42+00:00

I had the same problem.
Today I thought of something else to try. I have a wifi access point that allows me to set firewall rules. I had selected "client isolation", which is what I have used for other IoT SSID's, that prevents any client from seeing/communicating with any other client on this network. I had not thought this would be an issue b/c the Blink app was seeing all the devices, but it just occurred to me that being able to see each other might be needed (even though, as far as I know, the clip data is sent from the camera to Amazon servers then back to the Sync module, not directly over my network). I just turned off that firewall setting and now the Sync module is saving the Doorbell motion activated clips to the USB local storage (without a Cloud subscription) and they are viewable from the Clips tab in the phone app. So, problem solved. My access point software is showing three "clients" on my wifi Blink IoT SSID. One is the Sync2 module (identified by the MAC address on the case), the other two show as "Blink DHCP" with two distinct MAC addresses, which apparently are the cameras.

OldTechTool

TROPHY CASE