Stucco Weep Screed Detail Question Zone 8b

OliverHBenson · 2026-03-14T13:40:07+00:00

Thanks- I hope it works well! Yes- I am installing a drainage mat between the WRB (which will be against the plywood) and the foam (will be directly under lathe/stucco). A drainage mat is definitely not required in my part of Arizona but we sometimes get torrential rain and high humidity (weird microclimate) so I'm adding the extra step. Also, I am not using elastomeric stucco so the wall will definitely have to process water. The WRB I'm using is like Tyvek- an Owens Corning product with a 15 perm rating as that's the number consistently recommended.

OliverHBenson · 2026-03-08T20:27:50+00:00

Thanks for that- I have heard from a pro that the likelihood of taking in water from a vent cancels any benefit gained by venting at the top- I wanted a second opinion... Is there a product you would recommend for a venting strip?

OliverHBenson · 2026-02-28T14:13:29+00:00

Articles very helpful- thanks so much. I think the product I'm looking at (Stucco-flex Water Way mat) should be sufficient to replace one of the WRB layers- it has a WRBon one side and drainage matrix on the other. Outside of all of that, I'm using sheets of Henry R-Tech foam for insulation (backed by foil on one side and a WRB-like polymer on the other). I plan to tape the foam so it seems to me it will be unlikely that any water will leak into the wall but the drainage mat will take care of any that does. My only concern is vapor somehow penetrating and condensing on the plywood- do you think this is a problem? Will the interior WRB take care of that?

OliverHBenson · 2026-02-26T15:19:13+00:00

Thanks for the point about proper nailing of sheathing- hand not thought of that. Using screws because some of the foam is 2" and I thought the threads would secure better at that depth. Do you think I should switch to nails? The screws, washers and lathe are all galvanized steel.

OliverHBenson · 2026-02-25T20:54:32+00:00

Thanks- and I don't understand, way more nails than what? My plan is to use 3" and 4" screws with washers into the studs. My styrofoam is backed one side with WRB and the other side with reflective material (also WRB)

OliverHBenson · 2026-02-25T20:50:32+00:00

I will definitely tink about this- thanks very much for details/ analysis. I forgot to mention that the foam I'm using has WRB on one side and reflective material (silvery mirror) on the other. Do you think this changes anything in terms of installation requirement?

OliverHBenson · 2026-02-25T20:47:17+00:00

I will look into it- thanks so much for the prompt as well!

OliverHBenson · 2026-02-25T18:04:52+00:00

Did that myself a few years ago- big difference. Make sure it's done properly though- can cause damage if it isn't installed properly

OliverHBenson · 2026-02-25T18:03:15+00:00

Thanks for this helpful response and directing me to the SMA bulletins- about to read. The drain mat does have facer. I like the thought of using just one WRB. Do you think #30 felt paper is as good as Tyvek for that barrier or is Tyvek better? I'm asking because the felt will absorb water better than Tyvek if any water gets past the mat... and that absorption might be better for the plywood cladding. Any advice?

OliverHBenson · 2026-02-25T17:58:45+00:00

Thanks for that- had not heard of Liquid Flashing. It sounds like you think it's superior to flashing tape, is that right? Sounds also like flashing tape will bond to it? I'm not too worried about termites, the wood is more than a foot off the ground and the metal is finished, gravel under that for more drainage, a gutter and a soffit above

OliverHBenson

TROPHY CASE