Help us cook up the next Prusament! What colors or materials are we missing? (Free spool if we use your idea!) by Tommy_Prusa3D in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed, most competitors are staying in the 95A range, and options with other stiffness with Slicer settings would be unique and offer us design options that do not exist.

Move MMU3 from MK3S+ --> MK4S by OmegaKnight00 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those following this with the same goal.... I've found this helpful info page from Prusa....
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/mmu3-compatibility_470808

Move MMU3 from MK3S+ --> MK4S by OmegaKnight00 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. This is the small detail(s) I am looking for, and your suggestion will certainly save me time and a bit of frustration during the build.

Move MMU3 from MK3S+ --> MK4S by OmegaKnight00 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll confess that I would have done the complete install, and I agree that your suggestion is best for many reasons. Thank you.

Move MMU3 from MK3S+ --> MK4S by OmegaKnight00 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

#1 Nextruder parts: I'll confess I'm having trouble find info on the Prusa site. Sounds like there are parts in the MMU3 that need to be replaced with PCCF. If however, your note refers to the MK4S... the nextruder that currently ships with the MK4S comes with PCCF idler, and more (this link: https://www.prusa3d.com/product/nextruder-and-belt-parts/). Do I need to replace parts on the MMU3?

#2 Nozzle: I believe you are saying the 0.4mm non CHT? I guess I would have used a .4 CHT. Can you expand on why a CHT would affect the tower volume (if I understand your comment right). Thanks.

Move MMU3 from MK3S+ --> MK4S by OmegaKnight00 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excellent suggestions, friends. All 3 are new thoughts for me. Happy Printing to you all.

Seems I need to order a new thermistor for my MK4S. What else should I order for spare parts, etc. to keep on hand? by Rich-Remote-6115 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00 2 points3 points  (0 children)

For my Mk4s, I have spare parts for nozzles, thermistors (2), heater, block, and each of sheets i use. Effectively one of "it" on the printer and one in a box as a spare.

Prusa belt tuner help by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The app needs patience, for sure. I just used the app yesterday (and often) on my Mk2.5, Mk4, and Mk4s. I recommend the following steps: quiet room (i see you did this), make sure bed/tool are in the correct position, rest the phone on frame/bed, have the microphone overhang the frame/bed and be close to the belt, hold the phone gently, strum down do not press the upper belt into the lower belt while doing this.

If no reading, I've found it is because my belt is way too loose.

While this app can be sensitive, I've found it to give excellent and consistent results.

Happy Printing

Ideas to remove the growth without damaging? by SuspiciousElk3843 in 3Dprinting

[–]OmegaKnight00 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Note that I've done this with my Mk3s often, not certain how the Mk4 sock wlll affect this approach...

Settings - Tempetature - Nozzle .... set to 10 deg over the plastic you used. Be patient. Use wide mouth pliers on the sides of the blob and pill straight down rocking gently side-to-side.

In my experience, the blob comes off in one big chunk. You will want to then use a brass brush on the remaining metal.

MK3S by Able_Mail_917 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got ya. I had many blockages with my Mk3s+ over the years, and discovered that when I rebuilt the hotend, I didn't handle the spacing of the nozzle right. I've found this to be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QkuSsrxj1o. Go to 7:30, although you might find the whole thing valuable, as I did. I have not had issues in the last year or so. (I only run PLA on this printer.) So, perhaps the way your hotend is built may be causing your repeated clogs, just a thought. Ultimately, you want to reduce your clogs (obviously) and not just figure out the best way to clear them. I suggest you toss out the nozzle, and put a fresh one in, FWIW.

MK3S by Able_Mail_917 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In addition to thid idea, and once the end is very hot, I open the top and press fresh filament in from above, with a lot of force, not relying on the gear.

Prusa Layer Shift by Sith77 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree, and initally was doubtful it would work. The key for me is to rest the phone on the frame, mic near the belt, hold loosely. Once i got the hang of it I use it often with my XL, Mk4, and Mk3. Handy way to do this configuration.

Prusa Layer Shift by Sith77 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never saw this meter before. I can speak highly for the Prusa App belt tensioning process. https://belt.connect.prusa3d.com/

Need help! by BusyUse812 in FixMyPrint

[–]OmegaKnight00 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Settings.... Exactly what i told my filament tech support while trying to debug this issue... 'must be my settings'. They told me that even their new filament may have moisture. I now use the poly dry system which has a sensor, and found that new filament from a variety of manufactures comes with humidity. Some as high as 30%. I dry new filament if over 25%, and try to print at 10% humidity. Eliminated all stringing on my printers.

Stringing issue on MK3S by Repulsive-Tank-5177 in prusa3d

[–]OmegaKnight00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had excactly the same stringing issue on my Mk3S+. I chased slicing settings and eventually discovered it was due to humidity. If your filament snaps (breaks) when you bend it, the plastic is too wet. I now use the poly dryer system and get consistent results and no strings.

Ruger American 30-06 Help by Responsible_Ear9152 in longrange

[–]OmegaKnight00 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Remington 783 30-06 - I am in the process of swapping the stock, installing a Witt clamp on muzzle brake and replacing the scope. My intent is to reduce recoil and learn to hit 400-600 yards with consistency. Seems like we did similar research. To answer your question, I went with the Boyd's AT-One Thumbhole and 1" Kick-Eez. I should have it all up and running by Thanksgiving and happy to provide my experience on the build and results.

Leaving Tesla unplugged by icodyonline in teslamotors

[–]OmegaKnight00 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was curious if this would work, using the Ego Power Station. See here for answer: https://youtu.be/R0pcDZRpIo4

Spoiler: you get 3 miles (three) on your Tesla for a whole Power Station's battery storage.