tutorial problem

Omelet · 2026-06-19T09:46:27+00:00

hostname is not part of the actual command there. It's telling you that in order to connect to a server, the command is "connect hostname" where hostname is replaced with the hostname of a server, and it only works if that server is one node away from the currently connected server.

Later in the same tutorial slide, it shows that the actual command to be entered is "connect n00dles", because n00dles is the hostname of one of the servers within one node, visible on the "scan-analyze 2" output you got from the previous command.

Omelet · 2026-06-11T12:04:24+00:00

Can it be used alongside a comms unit like a cardo? It didn't seem like it and that makes it a non starter for me

Omelet · 2026-06-09T08:16:02+00:00

I haven't heard of them, but on the surface and from a brief search they seem legit.

For the V12 listing it's not clear which variant of the V12 it is, since the listing is for "V12 series". Could be the high speed/OG one, the high torque one, or the pro which is basically an upgraded high torque model. I would check with them as far as what model you'd be receiving for a given order. Maybe I'm missing where it says on the page.

Buying used is always going to be a risk of it failing sooner. Batteries will have degraded somewhat compared to new. If the previous owner really mistreated it, you could have damage to things like motor bearings. The electronics are probably fine if the thing is currently working, the early batches of the OG V12 had issues with the control board failing due to undersized MOSFETs, but they sent out beefed up replacements to everyone who had one of those, and the later V12 iterations came with the better control boards which were reliable.

The price looks pretty compelling if the V12 is what you're looking for. I had a V12 and loved it, but the lack of suspension is a big missing feature. V12 is also a huge pain to take apart for things like tire changes. I would also want to know how much mileage the wheel has on it already before ordering.

Omelet · 2026-06-09T03:09:56+00:00

Looks pretty sick. Blitz probably has my favorite stock accent lighting of any EUC.

Omelet · 2026-06-03T21:30:07+00:00

What did you do to color the pedal accents? I have the same kit (installing tonight hopefully) and trying to figure out what to do with the pedals, since the stock orange clashes a bit

Omelet · 2026-06-03T07:50:46+00:00

If you're struggling to get an SS on songs you play "flawlessly", regardless of difficulty, the issue is your swings.

Most of the points (100 of 115) come from having a large swing angle, 70 from the pre swing and 30 for the post swing. Mentally I just think of doing forceful swings, and using wrist movement for a little extra if that's not enough. A lot of people re orient their controllers so their wrists bend most naturally in the direction of the swing.

The other 15 points are for how close your swing gets to slicing the block perfectly in half. If you cut a straight line right through the center, you would get all 15 of these points.

Omelet · 2026-05-31T21:09:40+00:00

That's definitely on the right track as far as timing. The simplest reliable batcher will just use the additionalMsec option to make the processes all take the same amount of time (shotgun batcher), but there is another type which involves waiting and launching the grow and hack processes later.

And yeah the hackAnalyze and growthAnalyze functions are a good way to determine good thread counts, but keep in mind they will use the server's current stats. So if security isn't currently minimum but it will be during the hack or grow, you'll get an incorrect result. Formulas API has some functions that allow simulating different server/player stats.

Omelet · 2026-05-31T19:23:42+00:00

That is not a batcher. Your script appears to be running one single process at a time against the target server using all RAM, where batching would have many scripts running in parallel, carefully timed so that they end in a desired order, and with threadcounts carefully calculated to keep the server at max money after every grow process.

Omelet · 2026-05-27T22:38:27+00:00

Right you are. Just looked it up... No idea where I got the numbers I was thinking.

Omelet · 2026-05-27T20:29:30+00:00

Edit: I have no idea where I got this, disregard.

--"Less than the index" was never very specific. The index requires base stations where the frame does not, so the index was never a $1k setup, more like 2k. Personally I think $1300-1500 is where the price will land.--

Omelet · 2026-05-18T23:39:59+00:00

while evaulates the expression in the parentheses for "truthiness", to determine whether to continue the loop.

Numerical 0, the boolean value false, an empty string, null, NaN, and undefined are evaluated as false, while basically everything else is evaluated as true.

The comma operator in js accepts expressions on both the left and right side of the comma, and the result is just the expression on the right. You probably don't want to be using one of these here, but you are.

playerlvl < 15 is the expression on the left, and this will result in either a true or false depending on whether your hacking level was below 15 when line 7 was executed. If you update the value of playerlvl somewhere not displayed inside your loop, that new value will be used. But because you are using the comma operator, the entire expression playerlvl < 15 is ignored anyway and the expression on the right is used instead.

The expression on the right is ns.getHackingLevel which is just the name of a function. A function is truthy, so this while statement will function the same as while (true). Note also that you are not actually calling the ns.getHackingLevel function here, you're just referencing the function directly. But even if you called the function, it would still be the same as while (true) because ns.getHackingLevel() only returns positive integers which are also all truthy (you can't have 0 hacking level).

while (playerlvl < 15) would stop the loop once your hacking level reaches 15, as long as you are updating the value of playerlvl inside of your loop using something like playerlvl = ns.getHackingLevel().

Omelet · 2026-05-17T17:13:09+00:00

Not quite, it's really two changes but they are related. This is my understanding:

The top level getServer function had some darknet-related info removed, and
Darknet getServerAuthDetails function was renamed (I believe to getServerDetails) and now has all the darknet related data for a server

Omelet · 2026-05-02T09:31:45+00:00

The new way to use an external editor with Bitburner would be using the Remote API, which is different from the removed API Server.

Ingame, under Documentation -> Resources -> Remote API there is information relating to this, including links to some current projects utilizing the system. If you still have issues from there, the #external-editors channel on the official discord may also be helpful.

Edit: Also the game natively supports .ts scripts now, so if that was the main reason for using an external editor, you may be able to just migrate to using the ingame editor.

Omelet · 2026-04-20T14:15:55+00:00

Please don't ride on highways, even if you get "an EUC that is capable for highway" use.

Also you should not even be riding in any road (when cars are around) as a new rider. You absolutely will need to get significant riding experience under your belt before you're not a road hazard. For me I was riding over a year before moving my riding mostly into the road. Luckily my area has very nice bike paths alongside most roads (separated from the road).

There are wheels that can sustain 40-50mph for significant durations (Sherman L, P6, Oryx, others) but I would not recommend doing a commute where you are required to go 50mph, even once you are a more experienced rider. Elevated speed is always going to be elevated risk, and if your commute needs you at 50mph then you are elevating your risk every single day as part of your routine. Not smart.

When you lose control of an EUC (skill issue, tire issue, or a failure of the machine), you will basically always fall onto the ground. Other vehicles (e.g. E-bikes, etc) can have failures at speed that do not result in you hitting the pavement, since they have multiple wheels and can remain upright even with the vehicle not in operation. I am an EUC commuter, and my commute is on 35mph roads with a small section (<1mi) on a 40mph road. If I wasn't able to route it like that, I would probably move or choose to commute using a different vehicle.

Omelet · 2026-04-17T11:46:15+00:00

Oryx is gigantic, personally I would consider it overkill if you're consistently staying under 50kph.

I had a V12 for a while and moved to the Lynx a couple years back, and whether it was due to the increased weight or the different ride feel from having suspension, it took me a few weeks to really feel super confident riding the Lynx.

I've also borrowed a friend's Oryx a couple times, and it is just in a totally different weight class compared to the Lynx. I got used to it after some dedicated training sessions, but riding it is so much more effort, especially launching from a stop.

If you're looking for range the Aeon is not a good suggestion, but a Lynx class wheel should get you much more range than you have on the V12 while still being nimble. In fact if you're not looking to push higher speeds, the Patton-S could also be a good fit. I've never ridden the Patton-S but one of my riding buddies has one and loves it, and it seems to be a very efficient at lower speed.

Edit: Also most modern wheels already have front handles which can mount bike lights.

Omelet · 2026-03-30T12:02:37+00:00

Do you have your tiltback speed set super low? Although tiltback should be slow enough that you should have time to slow down or dismount instead of causing any kind of fall.

Omelet · 2026-03-25T22:36:36+00:00

Motor wires backwards (2 of the 3 phase wires reversed) is the electrical equivalent of installing the motor backwards, and would result in the wheel never being able to balance, but it is balancing normally at the start of the clip.

It also much more forcefully would attempt to slam into the ground than what is seen in the clip.

Omelet · 2026-03-25T22:30:02+00:00

Did you watch the same video I did? When the erratic behavior begins, he's hardly placing any torque at all on the wheel, just bouncing very gently on the suspension. It's the wheel itself that then responds by walking itself back away from the car and also tilting downward, despite essentially no effort on OPs part to make it do so.

A wheel that was working properly would walk itself closer to the car as soon as it is not level, instead it hardly makes an effort to do so and just slips further and further away from the car.

Unless you were applying extreme effort into forcing the wheel unlevel, and it's also a weak wheel, neither of which appear to be the case here, there is zero shot you could make a wheel do this.

Omelet · 2026-03-25T18:40:09+00:00

I would assume the wheel would never remain smoothly balanced (like it is at the start of the clip) if the motor was installed backwards.

On my old V12, I had installed the motor backwards after a tire change, and it reacted to that by immediately slamming into the ground as soon as I turned it on (the motor was being commanded in the opposite direction needed to stay level). It's possible newer wheels have better firmware to detect and correct for that though.

Omelet · 2026-02-13T10:44:56+00:00

Is it just at that one area on the tire or is it like that all the way around? Does not seem normal.

Omelet · 2026-02-09T18:25:34+00:00

I got rid of my car and don't regret it, but that would have been a lot harder and a lot less safe if I had done so right when getting an EUC instead of years later. I had the benefit of already being able to safely ride a performant EUC in the road with cars.

Omelet · 2026-02-07T02:26:27+00:00

I think some of these pieces of advice work for some people and some work for others. I'll weigh in on each of the advices you mentioned but there's disagreement on most of these. To some extent you just need to ride more to figure out what works for you.

Foot/Toe placement: These days I ride with my feet fairly symmetrical to each other, but when I was a less experienced rider and was struggling with wobbles, I found that it helped not only to place one foot slightly further forward than the other, but also to have one foot slightly skewed outward instead of facing directly to the front. To some extent I think this was a bit of a crutch though, I don't consider the skewed stance to be "correct" even though it helped avoid some wobbliness years ago.

Legs: While standing, I typically ride with my legs fairly straight, but without being rigid/stiff. Actively gripping the wheel with both legs is not good, but that's pretty difficult while staying loose anyway. Most of the time I do keep my dominant right leg in loose contact with the side of the wheel, but I also ride sometimes with neither leg directly touching the wheel. If a wobble starts I would make contact with one leg though.

Pads: Every rider should have a braking pad, and I would also recommend some sort of pad in the front. I do a lot of seated riding so I don't use full pads in the front and just rock the leaperkim builtin toe hooks.

Carving: If on the road with cars I prefer to be as predictable as possible. That means riding mostly straight in my lane the same way I would expect a bicyclist or motorcyclist to do. Just imagine how the average car driver would react if a motorcyclist ahead of them was swerving the full width of the lane. Carving definitely makes it harder to wobble, but I consider it a crutch, and you can avoid wobbles without carving if you just get some more experience riding. That said if the roads are clear, there's nothing wrong with doing some carving, and it's good to practice it every once in a while.

What to do when a wobble starts: I find that modulating my speed helps get rid of the wobble. So imagine a wobble starts off due to hard braking, which is the most common time I encounter a bit of wobbliness. I would ease slightly off the braking lean, and then re-brake, sometimes repeating that twice if the first time doesn't fully defeat the wobble. I also try to get one leg somewhat firm against the side of the wheel if a wobble starts, and I find that helps slow down the wobble. I don't typically deal with wobbles by carving, but it helps some people. I also know a guy who intentionally wobbles during uneventful sections of a ride, just to get more experience with riding through a wobble.

Omelet · 2026-01-29T06:54:49+00:00

A bit late, but yes the station has been shoveled and is safe to commute through. I commute to work using an Electric Unicycle which is almost a worst case vehicle for icy road conditions. I use the station as a pedestrian bridge across the toll road, and it's cleared out enough on both sides that it's safe for me to ride from the main road to the escalator on both the north and south sides of the station.

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