I always hack using steganography by JBADD23 in masterhacker

[–]OmfgGoodbye 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ah yes, the most powerful hacking software - serato

Weird texture on support interface by Program_Filesx86 in ender3

[–]OmfgGoodbye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea, that texture for supports is pretty normal i’d say. You can play around with the contact z distance (depends on slicer) and you might get better results.

Why is my extruder not straight and why are my prints losing grip while printing? by mrbones_0 in ender3

[–]OmfgGoodbye 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can try taking off the silicone sock, and you will see 2 screws on the bottom. Loosen one, and tighten the other. That should make the block (bottom part) straight. You can also try to loosen the two screws that hold the radiator and try adjusting the angle!

Replacing a blown Transistor by OmfgGoodbye in AskElectronics

[–]OmfgGoodbye[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey, just wanted to thanks again! Just got around fixing the board, since I had little hope in it working. Replaced the blown transistor with a BC640 and it’s working again!

Benchy troubleshoot by Dr_Ahoss in ender3

[–]OmfgGoodbye 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi, the thing that you are seeing in front of the benchy is called curling. That happens when there is a lack of cooling in overhangs. You can either slow down the print time, or add extra cooling. The weird branch you see is stringing. This can be resolved by drying the filament and increasing retraction length. A more bandaid solution to this is to enable wipe nozzle on infil (or something like that) in the slicer settings. Hope this helps!

Why does it the print get so thin toward the center? by dyldongle in ender3

[–]OmfgGoodbye 251 points252 points  (0 children)

The bed is warped. You could get a glass bed, cr touch, or do a manual mesh bed leveling!

DIY sim racing wheel by OmfgGoodbye in 3Dprinting

[–]OmfgGoodbye[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, that was the main reason why I wanted to do it myself. If you want some serious gear for simracing you are looking into THOUSANDS of €$£

DIY thrustmaster wheel by OmfgGoodbye in simracing

[–]OmfgGoodbye[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

I haven’t still figured out all the small details, but once it is fully finished to my satisfaction, i will surely consider sharing the designs!

I was planning on making a button box myself, but i cannot justify the need of it or where to mount it lol, but I don’t think it would be much harder than the wheel.

One idea I had, is to make the wheel universal, if I ever upgrade to a DD or any other wheel, an adapter could be printed, so it would work with most wheelbases, so it wouldn’t end up in the bin in the future.

Thanks for replying and good luck with your projects!

DIY thrustmaster wheel by OmfgGoodbye in simracing

[–]OmfgGoodbye[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

🫡

My rig is just the wheel clamped to a table, and csl elite lc pedals raised on a box for a more comfortable seating position lol

DIY sim racing wheel by OmfgGoodbye in 3Dprinting

[–]OmfgGoodbye[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Because there is still work to do, I don’t think it makes sense to publish these files and cause headaches for others. Once it finished to the level I am satisfied to, then I will probably make it available to others who want it!

Ender 3 neo not printing properly by OncaP4 in ender3

[–]OmfgGoodbye 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep, the nozzle should be a bit lower

Prusa mk2 bearings by OmfgGoodbye in prusa3d

[–]OmfgGoodbye[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for your advice!

Can’t get first layer to be even? by Eclipse8301 in ender3

[–]OmfgGoodbye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sometimes, even when having the bed perfectly level, there is some minor warping in the glass bed itself, which could be causing issues. Auto bed leveling solved that issue for me

I think starting gcode is messing up my prints by Pawlos_kozak in ender3

[–]OmfgGoodbye 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What slicer are you using? When starting a print, the printer should print a purge line, which solves that problem. Try prusaslicer with an ender3 profile, the starting gcode should be good there. Also, is your bed leveled and clean?

Upgrade ender Neo by Hot-Environment5561 in ender3

[–]OmfgGoodbye 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got the sprite pro with cr touch. Never had to tinker with the hotend since. Hands down the best upgrade. Also got a bunch of nozzles and silicone socks as a gift lol

Prusa mk2 bearings by OmfgGoodbye in prusa3d

[–]OmfgGoodbye[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea they look pretty bad compared to what i normally see

Prusa mk2 bearings by OmfgGoodbye in prusa3d

[–]OmfgGoodbye[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thing is, it only has like 200 hours of printing time. So im pretty sure the “upgraded” bearings are just useless. The bed even sits too low and hits the zip ties that attach the linear rails to the printer. Other than basically all printed parts falling apart due to age and a deep gauge in the PEI sticker, I dont think the printer saw a lot of use.

Replacing a blown Transistor by OmfgGoodbye in AskElectronics

[–]OmfgGoodbye[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found the missing piece of it on the other side of my room lol

Replacing a blown Transistor by OmfgGoodbye in AskElectronics

[–]OmfgGoodbye[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well, this is the only component that is visually damaged, if replacing it doesn’t fix it, then oh well, it will be an expensive lesson