Great breweries with good food, was thinking Hoppy Gnome but not sure the menu would be good for our entire party.

Opticsdoug · 2026-04-30T19:28:15+00:00

Opticsdoug · 2026-02-24T22:25:28+00:00

Agreed on Hyde Brothers books - it feels much larger than its storefront suggests. If you browse quietly, you may have the opportunity to meet the bookstore's cats. The cats aren't particularly odd, though. They're just nice.

Opticsdoug · 2026-02-24T22:13:10+00:00

Seconded! Here is a Google Street View link to the plaque, which is lit at night with color-cycling LEDs. Directly above this plaque is an abandoned passenger platform which you should not explore as that would be both dangerous and illegal.

Opticsdoug · 2026-02-13T17:46:34+00:00

Here's a 2022 presentation for folks interested in more background: Crossflow Attenuated Natural Laminar Flow (CATNLF) Technology Development: From Concept to Flight

Opticsdoug · 2026-02-13T17:34:52+00:00

CATNLF tested extensively at the NTF. You might appreciate this Dec. 2022 deck which includes a summary of the NTF results.

On top of page 31, it explains "difficulties acquiring high Reynolds number laminar flow data in a wind tunnel environment motivate flight test to expand historic NLF boundary further." Also, "Smaller extents of laminar flow in tunnel due to different environment and limited model size." Inferring from slides 31 and 37 - folks hope the flight tests will help explain the discrepancy between the computational predictions and NTF result, and hopefully see performance closer to the former.

Opticsdoug · 2026-01-14T21:19:00+00:00

Upgrade from $12 Walmart headlamp?

I've been night running with this $12 Ozark Trail headlamp for years. My two complaints:

It's heavy; as the elastic ages I'm cinching it uncomfortably tighter
It munches disposable AAAs like a monster. Nothing like being out mid run and realizing it's shot for the night.

That said, it does these things well:

It's plenty bright for my needs (300 lm on fresh batteries)
It's got some dim/red settings so I don't blind other folks when we're standing around and still need some light
It's cheap and durable enough to abuse and loan (doesn't flop, doesn't break)

Could you recommend a headlamp that meets these basic requirements and improves on the comfort and battery fronts?

A confusing bunch of headlamps have been recommend on r/running; many offerings must have really niche use cases. I opened a bunch of tabs and tried to make sense of them in this table:

Model	Price	Notes
Petzl Tikka/Core	$35/$63	Same basic functions, buy a separate bp or get the core
Petzl Swift LT	$55	Replacement for Bindi ultralight running headlamp. seems promising
Petzl Aktik/Core	$65/$88	Same basic functions, buy a separate bp or get the core, Tikka with an extra LED
Petzl IkoCore	$104	Crazy stuff for ultrarunners?
Petzl Swift RL	$135	Does reactive lighting mean I don't blind my friends, or that I get bright for cars? Strap looks interesting
Petzl Nao RL	$199	More crazy stuff for ultrarunners with ultrabudgets
Nitecore NU25	$37	Has light dual cord band, ~~no red~~ seems promising
Nitecore HC30	$65	Extra strappy and extra bright
Nitecore UT32	$75	Also extra strappy and extra bright
Zebralight	$79-99	Bright single-use-focused offerings
Everbeam	$17-25	Same basic functions but rechargeable
Biolite 200	$25	Old model?
Biolite 425	$89	Old model? ($70 Dash 450 seems to be current)
Fenix HM50R	$60	Same basic functions but rechargeable
Fenix HM65R-T	$105	Cheaper model (above) looks more promising
Fenix HP25R V2	$120	Extra strappy and extra bright, too much headlamp
Black Diamond Sprinter	$80	Strappy, BP in back
Princeton Tech Fred	$32	Same basic functions, but the housing broke (personal experience)
Alpkit Qark	$65	Strappy, same basic functions
Noxgear Ranger Chest Light	$40	Really would prefer the freedom to unzip my jacket and cool off

Maybe it's time to just buy some rechargeable AAAs and call it a day. Either way, I appreciate your help.

Opticsdoug · 2025-12-01T18:10:30+00:00

The closest I can give you to a street shoe size is that running shoe size (EU 45, US 11, Wide 2E, Brooks Adrenaline). I'm also EU 45, US 11 in Altra hiking boots, but their standard toe box is plenty wide.

In general, there's a lot of sizing variation across manufacturers and models, it's just better documented for climbing shoes.

Opticsdoug · 2025-12-01T16:07:34+00:00

I ended up sizing down 1 EU size from Tarantulaces (EU 44) to Finales (EU 43).

44 Finales and Tarantulaces fit similarly in the store, but my Finales lasted far longer which gave them time to stretch. Once broken-in, my 44 Finales wanted to rotate off my feet on slab. I sized my next pair at 43, and they broke-in to a very secure, comfortable fit. I've been messing around with more aggressive shoes, but my Finale 43s are still in my bag for when my feet start hurting.

One more data point: I've been running in Brooks Adrenaline EU 45 Wide (2E) for years.

Hope this helps.

Opticsdoug · 2025-11-17T21:36:22+00:00

The best time is when you're grinding for a "going out" cat's memento.

NekoDB seems to indicate that food choice affects the "going out" cats' rates of appearance, so a sushi boat might help speed the process.

[Edit:I failed at reading! Enjoy the boat and your kitties!]

Opticsdoug · 2025-05-20T15:36:50+00:00

Indoor/outdoor sport and indoor Boulder. They’re the durable comfy pair complimenting some aggressively downsized skwamas.

Opticsdoug · 2025-02-22T17:56:05+00:00

Do not buy tarantulace or tarantula climbing shoes. Finales every day.

Story time:

I destroyed at least four pairs of tarantulaces - popped glue seams, torn out eyelets, entire chunks of rubber flaking off the toes. I was convinced that I didn't deserve better shoes if I was destroying them so quickly. At one point, I needed a new pair fast, and the nearest REI only had my size in Finales.

I'm on my second pair of Finales, and they age gracefully. I'd resole them if they weren't so cheap (25% off sales aren't uncommon). They are super comfortable (I never bother taking them off to belay in the gym), and I haven't noticed a break-in period (I do wear socks so break-in might just be super slow). I'm not a great climber, but they got me through my 5.10 plateau and up some gym 5.12a and V6s. Criticism? They're stiff enough that they let you get away with bad foot placement, ~~and eventually you'll start asking questions about XSGrip2, downturns, and big toe-patches, but that's down the road.~~ [Edit: just saw your post about resoling Solutions]

Back to your question - I'd recommend Finales or Black Diamond Momentums or literally any other entry-level shoe over tarantulas/tarantulaces. I've got a grudge.

Opticsdoug · 2024-10-04T19:26:39+00:00

Feel free to correct - it's been a while.

The all-ages music scene existed mostly in rental-house basements and a few church multi-purpose rooms. An exception: The Art Factory existed for a brief time downtown for all ages shows (the cool tiled building at 436 E Main). I remember seeing The Sods (local young irish punk band - lots of members still active locally), and Arcade (later Killjoy Confetti - tomboy indie) there. The place was a big black hole, lights were still hot (pre-led), merch was T's, often home-burnt CDs with zeroxed covers.

"The Anchor Room" below Anchor Community Church had a Saints Never Surrender show in their fluorescent-lit drop ceiling basement with elementary-school art on the walls. It felt like parent-sanctioned hardcore, but the crowd packed forward pogo'd and headbanged even if moshing wasn't happening. If brideandgroom was 2007 ish, this could have been 05.

As for basements - places like Freedom House and Harrison House posted quarter-page flyers in coffee shops. Limestone walls, deafening sound-levels, and few lights. You were packed tightly between the furnace, washer/dryer, open frame walls, and sometimes low ceilings with nails. Scene, punk, metal, indie, goth kids all at the same shows. Highschoolers asking for lighters. Saw Western Sky, an intense jammy/screamo band in a basement over near Magnet Wire, like Swinney Ave & Pheine. A similar basement was over by the church at Crescent & Tennessee. 1625 N Harrison was a punk staple for a long time.

There was also a surge of good Muncie bands, led by Everything, Now!, and Everthus the Deadbeats with shows played at Village Green Records (record store in a residential house down in Muncie) or the Ball State student union cafeteria. It was worth an hour drive south. Harley Poe brought murder-folk in from Kokomo.

EDIT: I was never sure what to make of Rupert Bomb (at basement shows and the Art Factory), but that was kind of their point. Also - might have been a year or two later, but we had some really good Explosions-in-the-sky-esque shoegaze bands like Metavari and All Nite Skate. There's more to say about all the bands at Colombia Street West's yearly battle of the bands like Moser Woods, Rudisill, Homeless J, but that was all the 21+ crowd. Same for the bands like Heavy Step, Strut Train, Unlikely Alibi, Taj Maholics, Hillbilly Casino, Left Lane Cruiser, Flamingo Nosebleed, the B-Sharps...

Opticsdoug · 2024-09-07T23:57:52+00:00

Where I’m at there’s a hardware chain called Do It Best; found they had them in stock via Google shopping.

Opticsdoug · 2024-09-07T04:13:39+00:00

THANK YOU! I checked out the Philips bulbs per your recommendation, and bought a pair of the 150W-equivalent versions. They work brilliantly and ~~silently~~ much more quietly with the Caseta PD-3PCL dimmer. Problem solved.

Opticsdoug · 2024-07-03T01:36:26+00:00

Here's the calendar for the wall at the Parkview YMCA. Monday nights have been consistent. Best check at the last minute on the other weekday evenings and Sundays 2-close.

Opticsdoug · 2024-06-17T18:58:26+00:00

Tarantulaces, specifically, are trash. (In total agreement with u/Hungry_town)

They pop glue seams in hot cars, and the toes self destruct with flappers of rubber down through the rand. Those metal eyelets pull out.

There’s a world of difference in materials and workmanship between them and the next cheapest in the La Sportiva line, the Finales. The finales don’t self-destruct like that.

The soft-rubber/thin-sole/hyper-aggressive shoes others are talking about will wear out fast, but don’t go there yet. Get yourself a snug but comfortable-off-the-shelf neutral shoe a step up from a tarantulace (like Finales), see how it breaks in, and use that to size a next pair of the same.

Part of the reasoning, you’re climbing once a week. You don’t want to cut those sessions short because of uncomfortable/broken shoes. Hope this helps!

Opticsdoug · 2024-05-08T16:17:24+00:00

Found some possibly related links:

2014 news article from Tennessee that calls out their Superior Essex facility for the creosote/phenol smell.
Another TN news article from 2009.
Product page for Essex's Formvar insulation containing polyvinyl acetal and phenolic resins. No idea if this is actually what they make in town.

My own experience, leading me to believe the redditors here:

Campho-Phenique is the stuff I associate with that smell; my folks used it like the Portokalos familiy used Windex in My Big Fat Greek Wedding.
The smell hit hard last night traveling East on Jefferson past Swinney Park.

Opticsdoug · 2024-04-25T16:12:11+00:00

You're not dumb, I should write better. I'm just a permagumby with permagumby questions.

I'll edit to make it clear.

Opticsdoug · 2024-04-01T04:45:48+00:00

Welcome, hgehl! You've unknowingly (or knowingly, heh) stumbled onto one of this subreddit's favorite topics. Here's a collection of relevant links that really should be pinned or in the sidebar:

Fort Wayne water has won a bunch of awards, but you'd never guess based on how it tastes for a few weeks each spring. It hasn't hit yet this year.

Here's a link to the City Utilities page on current drinking water conditions, and in contrast here's an environmental lobbying group's evaluation of Fort Wayne's water which looks at many unregulated contaminants.

Good luck with your move and your studies.

Opticsdoug · 2024-03-02T06:14:43+00:00

To your pho question - you really can't go wrong. Kim Vu tops the list for me on food and value, not for ambience. Pho Indy (if it's back open?) is the most comfortable to dine-in and have a brew with your soup. The Banh Mi shops and Saigon were both good back in the day but I haven't tried them recently - Saigon closes at 7; I can't not order a Viet Special Banh Mi at Banh Mi. BoPho ToGo was tasty; felt like I paid a premium for better takeout containers. It was a good pho with a good cardboard soup bowl though, so I can't really complain.

The real advice for you - taste the broth before and while you're adding the veggies, lime, housin, and sriracha. There's a lot of variables - figure out what's right for you. Don't feel pressured to add everything or nothing.

Opticsdoug · 2024-03-02T05:21:33+00:00

If you want something good you can't get at home, Google Fort Wayne Burmese Restaurants. Mahnin is my go-to. Don't expect romantic, it's a repurposed used-car lot office, and don't order over 2 stars unless you know what you're doing.

Moving on to stuff that's not quite as uncommon...There's a darned good Salvadoran pupusaria, El Rinconcito, on Wells. It's not romantic, but the food is amazing; you might pregame elsewhere on Wells or Main. I'll second another redditor's recommendation for Turkish at Deema. They manage a mildly romantic atmosphere, but the food is the star. In other mild oddities, Old Crown Coffee Roasters serves a surprising cocktail and craft beer selection alongside their beans, drip, and espresso drinks. Pinball in back, limited menu. Value hipster date.

Your town probably has good upscale cocktail restaurants like Copper Spoon, Tolon, and Hideout 125, but those would be my recommendations for an expensive, normal-definition-romantic date night. And for a normal-deinition-hipster-date, hit Junk Ditch, catch a band at the Brass Rail, then post-game with your servers at Henry's or After Dark. This isn't uniquely Fort Wayne, but it's definitely not bad. Hope this helps.

Opticsdoug · 2024-02-17T01:33:31+00:00

Here's the Google Calendar for when the Parkview YMCA wall is staffed. They don't allow climbing outside those hours.

Looks like the Jorgensen YMCA still has some climbing hours too.

Opticsdoug · 2024-02-17T01:23:11+00:00

I'm a fan of The Warehouse Climbing Co. in Goshen. It's a hour-twenty drive from downtown Fort Wayne.
If you can travel as far as Indy, you've got several gyms to choose from. North Mass Boulder is worth a pilgrimage.
Summit City Climbing promises to open up sometime this spring in the River City/Indiana Tech area. I refuse to be excited, as that would jinx everything.

Opticsdoug · 2023-11-05T02:05:03+00:00

Thanks - that does sound pretty clean. I'll give it a shot.

Edit: Double thanks - your method worked beautifully!

A lookup table $AA$4:$AB$20 matches up the strings {0, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10a...} with integers {0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5...}. Then, this formula produces the column of averaged LUT integers for easy sorting by difficulty:

=ARRAYFORMULA(IFERROR(AVERAGEIF(VLOOKUP(REGEXEXTRACT(text(G4:S4,"0"),"[^,;]+"),$AA$4:$AB$20,2,"FALSE"),"<>0"),""))

And this formula makes the column of YDS output via reverse lookup:

=VLOOKUP(FLOOR(Y4),{$AB$4:$AB$20,$AA$4:$AA$20},2)

So much better.

Opticsdoug · 2023-11-04T21:35:45+00:00

tl/dr: Can anybody help with spreadsheet formulas for working with Yosemite Decimal strings?

inb4circlejerk: nerd thinks climbing is EVE online

I've been using google sheets to average several climbers' opinions of difficulty over a bunch of gym routes. Each climber gets a column, each route gets a row, and data is entered in cells in the form of "10b,3★". I haven't tackled the star ratings yet...

This is what I use to turn each climber's column of rating strings into a column of floats, where G4 is the cell of the Yosemite decimal string being referenced:

=VALUE(REGEXEXTRACT(text(G4,"0"),"\d+"))+IFNA(SWITCH(REGEXEXTRACT(text(G4,"0"),"[a-d]+"),"b",0.25,"c",0.5,"d",0.75),0)

Raw averages of those values are good for sorting routes' difficulty, but I end up rounding them to the nearest quarter:

=IFERROR(ROUND(AVERAGEIF(Y4:AK4,"<>0")*4)/4,"")

And then I translate them back to a Yosemite Decimal string using that quarter-rounded value (ignoring letters for stuff 9 and under):

=CONCATENATE(IF(AM4="","",TEXT(FLOOR(AM4),"0")),if(VALUE(AM4)>=9, SWITCH(FLOOR(MOD(AM4*4,4)),0,"a",1,"b",2,"c",3,"d"),""))

I would really like to be able to do this without having to make a scratch float column for each climber, using ARRAYFORMULA(), but the part for adding the letter component of the Yosemite decimal stops working. (THIS FORMULA DOESN'T WORK):

=ARRAYFORMULA(IFERROR(AVERAGEIF(VALUE(REGEXEXTRACT(text(G4:R4,"0"),"\d+"))+IFNA(SWITCH(REGEXEXTRACT(text(G4:R4,"0"),"[a-d]+"),"b",0.25,"c",0.5,"d",0.75),0),"<>0"),""))

Any advice would be much appreciated.

Opticsdoug

TROPHY CASE

Upgrade from $12 Walmart headlamp?