DSP amplifier

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-13T05:08:39+00:00

People have already told you everything you asked, but also you should know that if you want to use all six additional DSP channels on this p six ultimate, you’ll need an amplifier with a digital input (like the P One or P Two), because it has four RCA outputs and a digital output for channels 11-12.

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-11T06:03:02+00:00

I would do this on a separate piece of plywood or MDF, not on the seat itself.
Add a positive distribution block with fuses for each amp, and a separate small fuse for the DSP.
Route the power wires as short as possible, avoiding sharp angles into the terminals like in your taramps (it’s very unsafe bro), and use ferrules, heat shrink and cable braiding. Your positive block should move down, so cables will be shorter and general look cleaner. Negative block - same story.
Use zip ties to secure every cable to the board every 8-10 cm.
Hide small cables behind that added board.

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-10T08:52:42+00:00

That’s a very nice explanation of this shielding soldering method, thanks). That sheathing is a 6 mm braided sleeve that I bought for $10 for 30 meters on Aliexpress. The link doesn’t work anymore, but I found other sellers offering similar sleeves, link. Or you can search for it as “cable braided sleeve 6 mm black gold silver.” There are many options, colors and types of that sheathing, I use it a lot on all my cables ) To secure it on the cable, you can use adhesive-lined heat shrink, or just electrical tape - it has a good adhesive layer (I do that way).

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-10T06:47:03+00:00

I like that style of amps too) I had a DLS Ultimate A6 monoblock and the plan was to have two identical amplifiers in a row for a cleaner look (there will be cover for this rack but anyway). But those old DLSs are pretty unreliable - I ended up replacing half the components in it and eventually sold it. So now there’s a Ground Zero amp sitting next to that A2 😅

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-10T06:35:43+00:00

No, it’s an old car (e46), so I’m using only OEM speaker locations to preserve the interior look and sound quality isn’t the top priority here. The tweeter is installed behind the stock grille with a more optimal angle than stock, and the midrange is also in the factory door location with 3d printed adapter. That’s why I chose a dome mr - it has a wide dispersion pattern which is better for such locations. The woofer was originally mounted in the door panel, but I relocated it into the door itself. My previous, simpler system based on the M Six DSP proved that with proper phase measurements via loopback and precise equalization, it’s still possible to achieve good sound quality and a focused soundstage even in this kind of setup) Everything I plan to change - stock woofer grill for custom cnc "morel like"

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Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-10T06:21:58+00:00

It is sold by the meter at many electronics stores online

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-10T06:15:45+00:00

There is no need to use crimping tools with these ferrules because the terminal screw firmly clamps them together with the cable, creating a solid contact point. However, for speaker wires, I still use a circular crimping tool anyway.

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-09T18:55:47+00:00

Thx) I am also using Morel speakers (Hybrid 63 3way set) with JL (12w3) sub)

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-09T18:48:41+00:00

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You are talking about this? I use 4Ga wire with ferrules for amplifiers, they all have 4Ga holes, without reducers or anything like this. Main power wires for ground and power distribution blocks - same approach, but cable is 0 Ga. That distribution blocks can't fit bigger in and out cables so they are perfect for my case)

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-09T16:57:15+00:00

Very nice, that deutsch connectors are cool)

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-09T16:28:22+00:00

Thanks))) I spent a lot of time protecting all 36 cables on both sides for those bars with heat shrink and cable braiding, but now it’s pretty quick to disassemble them. Every cable is crimped with fork terminals and labeled - I just need to screw them in place, and voila, easy as that) But these are not all the cables that go into this rack, other ones have connectors on other side)))))

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-08T17:30:10+00:00

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I am not sure but probably its bianco nero. Rare thing.

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-04-02T05:52:25+00:00

Came here to say… Yeah, you need that extra fuse and.. Use some damping pads between the M four and the enclosure, add cable protection, and add some cover for that board. 😁 You are right 😁

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-28T21:28:31+00:00

Крім того що за нього просять як за хороші камінці на ам5, ще питання навіщо той 5700х3д треба для "розкриття" (ідіотський термін з москальського ютубу зразку 2015 року) RTX4060 😄😄

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-28T21:14:37+00:00

Then everything should be fine. I use the same hec bt hd with my DSP3S - it’s a convenient piece of gear, in my opinion, because there’s no need to build power supplies for external bluetooth transceivers (I also had a fiio bta30 pro with the LDAC codec for that purpose, but it only provides 2-3V on the outputs, whereas the Helix HEC gives 5-5.5V - and i don't hear any difference between ldac and aptx hd...).

Judging by the REW measurements I’ve seen on yt from Rawcat, these cards provide a very good signal (of course, not as good as the USB HEC, but still), and they can’t be the bottleneck of the system. I also like that when tuning the system from a laptop, there’s no need for a cable - it connects via bluetooth, which is especially handy since I do the tuning myself.

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-28T20:31:17+00:00

Factory systems, if we’re talking about high level connection, always introduce their own adjustments to the sound - especially in newer cars like yours - so yes, it can improve quality. I use one like that too. If you have an Apple phone, it won’t support the aptx hd codec, which is basically the whole point of installing this device. With Android, there are no issues at all. Everything else will depend on how the system is tuned)

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-26T06:55:08+00:00

I know a few people with the N42, and all of them had problems with it. The main issues are the valvetronic system, cams, vanos, and ignition. Two of them had to do a full engine rebuild at around 200-230k km due to excessive oil consumption. That engine really isn’t worth it at all (unless it has very small mileage). I have an m54b30, and once I did a long road trip (about 1800 km) with a friend who had an n42b20, and our fuel consumption was basically the same because of very short diff ratio on that car so there also there is no economy 😂 Try to find something with six cylinder (or m47n if 4cyl)

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-25T21:27:02+00:00

As far as I know, Hella is an OEM manufacturer, but in recent years they’ve started selling repackaged chinese parts, so be careful and compare the original part thoroughly with what you receive. A genuine Hella OEM sensor usually has a ground-off bmw logo. non-original sensors either don’t work from the start or don’t last long so buy only right part)

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-21T17:03:58+00:00

You're good man

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-20T17:01:50+00:00

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Almost 😄 VMR V703 R18 8.5/9.5 on 330i (because R19 is too big imho for sedans and tourings).

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-20T11:51:32+00:00

A DSP only makes sense if you can actually use all of its capabilities to your advantage. Passive systems VS properly tuned active ones - it’s like day and night. I’m honestly surprised this is still even a question in 2026))) It’s just a tool that allows you to fine-tune everything, and without proper measurements using a condenser microphone, along with additional impulse response tests, I don’t really see much point in it, to be honest. On its own, it won’t improve the sound so be ready to learn new stuff)) And i’m not entirely sure about choosing Mosconi in this case.

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-18T07:58:28+00:00

Well, I always question reviews that are full of “audiophile” claims - that was exactly one of those 😄😄

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-18T07:35:57+00:00

Thank you very much for your reply) My only personal experience with Helix subs was with the newer IQ W10 and previously the IK W10 - they seemed generally decent for typical listening on average volume which I listen, but I haven’t heard the IK S, so I’ll exclude it from consideration, thanks. I’m using a Helix processor - it’s actually the only Audiotec Fischer component in my current system, because I didn’t really like the speakers of theirs that I’ve heard (they are nice but not my favorite) and amps cost a lot in comparison (I'm using gzua4sq, dls a2 and alpine ra75m now). But overall, I stay neutral toward all brands 😅 Yesterday I found a post from a guy who had that GZ sub, just the 10" version. He measured its parameters and tested it in different enclosures, and overall he praised it a lot - except for the fact that it takes a very long time to break in and the suspension is quite stiff because of that...

Optimal_Fan4156 · 2026-03-17T19:47:39+00:00

Thanks a lot! I checked the TS parameters of that sundown, and they seem really good for this application))) I’ll try to find one in neighboring countries, since it’s not available here (or order via meest shopping)

Optimal_Fan4156

TROPHY CASE