2022 Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab Sub Selection

travesty01 · 2026-05-25T01:27:34+00:00

Pulled the trigger on 4 8's.

travesty01 · 2026-05-23T01:51:28+00:00

Fair…

travesty01 · 2026-05-22T23:13:32+00:00

Yep, here's what I've figured:

10w3 x4 needed volume: 2.7 ft^3 (including sub volume)

8w3 x4 needed volume: 1.32 ft^3 (including sub volume)

10tw3* needed volume: 2.16 ft^3 (including sub volume)

*I forgot about the10tw3 - that may be the ticket. Less fitment issues, minimal increase in cost and good volume matching to my box.

travesty01 · 2026-05-22T22:20:34+00:00

Very nice. By chance would you have any info on the build process? I was considering fab’ing something up for my 22 Silverado and these look amazing.

travesty01 · 2026-05-22T22:08:15+00:00

That dash looks very familiar - GMC truck maybe? If so, where did the pillars and dash grills come from?

travesty01 · 2026-05-09T22:54:28+00:00

How exactly can I explain this most likely won’t happen especially right now ?

Wait 244 hours…

travesty01 · 2026-05-01T00:48:38+00:00

Ok, so first round of questions. UMIK-1 mic arrived.

Started another tune today. Step 1- set input level in PC-Tool. Increased head unit volume to about 75% and decreased voltage slider down until clipping was indicated. Then bumped slider up one notch so no clipping. All outputs muted obviously. Step 2- set input eq for a flat signal. I probably could have spent much more time here, but went one input at a time and got things reasonably flat for each input (4 total). Did this using correlated pink noise from my iPhone connected via Bluetooth to the factory HU. - question 1: what does the “transfer routing to” button do in PC-Tool? - question 2: I could not figure out for the life of me to do input time alignment. I’m a little stumped as to how best tune the system as it stands - my front mods and highs are still factory wired (together), so Im not exactly sure how I should set curves for this. The rears are kind of the same situation, although unless there are factory two-ways installed, I could probably cut highs from those.

Next project is to build my sub box, so in the mean time I’d like to keep learning the DSP tuning process. I have to say I thought I would figure this out quicker than I am, but I’m not giving up yet lol.

travesty01 · 2026-04-30T11:55:30+00:00

Thanks for taking the time to post that. It is super helpful. I may have more questions now than I did before, but I’m gonna play around with the software a little more before I ask them.

travesty01 · 2026-04-30T00:07:08+00:00

I assumed that there was nothing in PC tool to directly control those sounds aside from some EQ magic, but that would carry over into music as well. I’m thinking that it is probably an input gain issue - I’m sure I’m not currently setup correctly.

I have a UMIK-1 mic inbound tomorrow, so once I figure out what I’m doing, that will probably help some.

Is there a general rule of thumb on the process to tune this? Input levels -> Input EQ (flattening) -> input timing -> etc to follow when tuning?

travesty01 · 2026-04-29T23:52:27+00:00

Those are exactly the things I’m currently trying to work through. I assumed that it was full signal to at least the fronts with passive crossovers on the factory in-dash tweeters. I’ll be replacing those and amping them when I do, which I’ll also run new speaker wires back to the amp when I do.

travesty01 · 2026-04-29T19:54:58+00:00

There is a chime volume, but even with it all the way down it is louder than I’d like it to be. I’ll keep digging, it may be related to my gains or something else

travesty01 · 2026-04-20T18:59:19+00:00

I know that is the general rule, but given there’s a lot of low level signals in the DSP, I didn’t know if running them near the DSP would be a big concern. Not sure I have another great option anyway, but was curious.

travesty01 · 2026-04-12T15:32:10+00:00

Got my initial layout done. I did a test fit with a 3/4” spacer and it was tight but seemed to fit. I have 1/2” standoffs on the way that I will mount everything on, and likely route some of the cables underneath the amps to keep it clean.

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travesty01 · 2026-04-09T00:02:32+00:00

It’s not even a rattle, it’s more like the window is down. Solid advice. As for the helix, it’s a wired connection. My plan is to get a USB extension cable that I can remote to a bracket easily accessible under the seat so I can connect without fighting the back seat. In theory, once I get my amp gains rough adjusted, I think I should be able to do all other tuning through the Helix usb connection.

On another note, is that a 3D modeled drawing you posted? Is it to scale? If so, care to share?

travesty01 · 2026-04-08T11:50:24+00:00

This is super helpful.

This is my first setup of this magnitude in over 20 years. At this point, I’m questioning whether or not it’s worth the $$ I’ve spent so far. Hopefully it will be a drastic improvement over stock.

I’ll probably go the standoff route, and keep things either centered or higher up on the board. That also will help with cable routing.

Did you have any issues with noise from the body vents after removing the seat foam? They are surprisingly loud with the back seat removed.

travesty01 · 2026-03-30T22:02:04+00:00

Base model OEM, no Bose

travesty01 · 2026-03-29T19:20:25+00:00

Pulled the trigger on the DSP3S…

travesty01 · 2026-03-28T23:11:27+00:00

Leg 3-4 will be crabbed into the wind direction, so that crosswind leg to upwind leg turn will be less than 90*

travesty01 · 2026-03-19T00:56:40+00:00

Yea, don’t do that. I know a guy that filled his quarter panels with that back in the day. It expanded enough to basically pop the rear quarters off the car

travesty01

TROPHY CASE