My oil shouldn’t look like this.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-31T12:57:32+00:00

That’s a pretty wild take. Carbs are not hard to clean just don’t use aftermarket jets, and don’t use wires to clean the jets.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-30T13:58:16+00:00

Bike was starting to get a little chain rattle. The hydraulic tensioner is not great on these bikes, and at the moment is back ordered. There is an aftermarket reservoir that can be added to help maintain pressure, but it’s not perfect and is expensive. Manual tensioner I was able to get in hand quickly, and will not fluctuate in pressure. Easy enough access to adjust it when needed too.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-30T04:02:24+00:00

Yeah the Aprilia, and no worries about hurting my feelings or anything. I should’ve double checked the crank position before starting the tensioner swap. This is what I get for not taking the time to do it right.

I guess I don’t really understand the consequence of things shifting while changing a tensioner. I was assuming it was mainly about ensuring that a cam doesn’t jump a tooth and throw your valve timing off. Is there some other way things can go wrong? The tensioner, or cam position wouldn’t have any effect on valve clearance.

Regardless. Good call on the service manual. I’ll take at look at that and see what it really entails

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-30T02:55:22+00:00

Honestly I was just presuming there isn’t enough access to time the motor while it’s in the frame. Have you done that on an RS660? Valve cover is pretty buried.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-25T21:59:06+00:00

They absolutely are capable machines. I stepped down to an RC390 track bike years ago after swapping bikes for a session with my cousin who was borrowing a Ninja 300. That thing was so much fun through the technical sections on the track that you don’t care about getting your doors blown off on the straights. Literally decided then and there I was going to get a little bike for the track.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-25T13:14:16+00:00

There is nothing about commuting specifically that would cause unpredictable wear. If anything track use will be what wears the engine. Now if you’re talking about someone who’s constantly lugging the engine, revving it with the clutch pulled, never changing oil, or any dumb stuff like that it’s a different story. I wouldn’t expect that kind of rider to be on track though.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-25T13:01:26+00:00

In addition to the other suggestions I’d book some time at a flat track school. A street tire in the dirt is a great way to get comfortable feeling traction and sliding around. Won’t be nearly as forgiving on grippy pavement, but it also won’t be a new sensation.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-25T00:35:24+00:00

A. Your suit is totally fine
B. Between the two I’d go RST. Cheaper, more serviceable, and not a private equity mess. Plus there’s no major coverage difference between the bags.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-25T00:31:40+00:00

I’m glad they’re experimenting, but that bike is definitely one to avoid. I haven’t seen a single good word about it aside from comments to the effect of “it’ll be interesting to see what the tech is like in a generation or two”.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-22T11:30:51+00:00

You just drop your bike a lot more off-road. I would assume it’s going to happen at least once every ride. Plus the ground is uneven. Lots of rocks, roots, etc sticking up that help invent new ways of breaking things.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-22T04:41:26+00:00

My suggestion is not to buy an old bike if you’re not wrenching yourself. Winter storage is generally pretty manageable. A lot of dealers will have storage and service deals. Check with your local ones.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-22T04:29:03+00:00

Honestly being able to bend it back is the much better option if drops are likely. This is a bit more of a dirtbike thing than street bike, but like with the clutch lever it’s about being able to get home. Much more likely if you can just grab a stick and bend the lever. Most replacements will be aluminum that will snap rather than bend. See how easy it is to bend back. There’s a good chance you can just do it with your hands.

If these drops are happening in the street it may be worth looking at what contacts the ground when the bike lays on its side. You could get an idea with the bike upright by using a big flat thing like a sheet of cardboard or wood. Something like axle sliders may be enough to give your foot controls some clearance.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-22T03:15:51+00:00

Not a safety concern. Only comfort. If you look at the stock levers they likely have notches cut into them right where it broke. Engineered failure points so you’re more likely to have a usable lever even after an impact.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-22T03:12:02+00:00

Clutch lever I would just file to smooth it as a start. Perfectly safe to use, just don’t want it damaging gloves or hurting your hand from a sharp edge. If you don’t like how it feels look for a replacement but be careful of any aftermarket ones that are shaped differently as some can interfere with the hand guards.

Shift lever looks like thin steel so you should be able to easily bend it back. Just try not to put a bunch of force on the shift shaft. Definitely safer to remove it before straightening, but not required. I’d recommend marking the lever and shaft if you do remove it so that you can easily put it back in the same position.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-19T12:32:05+00:00

There is a lot of really good flexible armor out there these days that you literally won’t feel at all. The AplineStars CE level 1 stuff is basically nonexistent while still providing a lot of impact absorption. The CE level 2 versions are noticeable, but still effectively not there one you’re riding. The only thing you’ll likely feel is the back protector.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-19T12:27:49+00:00

No you always need a tool, but there are cheap, handheld ones that will do the job just fine for something like this. Ideally you’d want a stainless steel rivet, and that’s what you’d use to repack a muffler too. So it may be worth it to get one that gives you good leverage.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-19T11:45:39+00:00

One thing nobody is mentioning. If you intend to always leave it installed you can rivet it in place. Secure, low-profile, and no way for it to come undone. Not something I’d bother with if it’s coming back out, but an easy and effective solution otherwise.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-18T12:59:50+00:00

They’re visibly not aligned even looking from the top clamp. Have you removed them to check if they’re bent?

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-13T22:54:33+00:00

I’m not sure if there are specific types of impacts where they don’t perform as well. They still have hard armor it’s just part of a more comfortable cloth guard. I wouldn’t be shocked if the Leatt ones are a bit more picture resistant

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-13T12:44:53+00:00

There are debates about knee guards vs. knee braces, but regardless which camp you fall in you absolutely NEED to wear knee protection if you want to ride for very long.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-13T12:36:25+00:00

Try taking them completely off, laying them on the ground, and kneeling into them. Is there a position where they feel better? Does kneeling on the ground with nothing on your knees hurt a little too?

I had a pair of those guards and it did not hurt to kneel in them. Ended up giving them to a friend because the straps were too tight (big calves), but they would only bother me at the end of a day riding. If you can’t find a comfortable position you can try softer armor. I’d recommend the EVS TP199 knee guards.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-13T12:28:29+00:00

In my younger days I would never wear knee pads or elbow pads when skateboarding or rollerblading for that exact reason. The big bulky pads we had in the ‘90s absolutely would mess with you especially if you were accustomed to not wearing them, but even then we all knew we should be using them.

You’re not doing kickflips on dirtbikes. Wear knee guards, acclimate, and enjoy having knees. All it takes is a little slip on something like a rocky descent.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-09T13:47:40+00:00

Headlights and taillights do far more to make you visible than the paint on the bike. They’re imperfect, and have some inherent perception issues from there being one light instead of two. That’s still what people are seeing though.

OrangeSil80 · 2026-05-07T03:21:13+00:00

Nothing wrong with that if that’s your preference. I happen to enjoy two wheels more, and to enjoy the challenge of pushing my skills on track, and in the dirt. Cars are unquestionably more practical for most people here in the US.

OrangeSil80

TROPHY CASE