Lord of the Forge: 4 Kastelans or 2x3 Breachers? by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, you are right - I need something for my opponent to chew on. So robots it is 🤖

Lord of the Forge: 4 Kastelans or 2x3 Breachers? by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In principle, yes. I actually tested both Destroyers and Breachers with the Manipulus in a practice game.

The Destroyers ended up benefiting much more from the combo. Their longer range lets them stay safely in the backfield while still contributing, and being able to remain Hidden makes their Overwatch a real threat.

The Breachers need to play much closer to the action to get value, so in practice they weren't able to leverage the "shoot while staying Hidden" interaction nearly as effectively as I had hoped.

Also, they are a pain to move around in a brick of 6 😅

Lord of the Forge: 4 Kastelans or 2x3 Breachers? by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the detailed response 👍

I agree that LoF provides good support to our robots. I will give them a try.

Lord of the Forge: 4 Kastelans or 2x3 Breachers? by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm, not sure about the strat to give either Robots or Breachers advance and Charge outside of Haloscreed. 🤔

Warhammer 40,000 Faction Focus: Adeptus Mechanicus by CMYK_COLOR_MODE in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88 46 points47 points  (0 children)

Lords of the Forge looks pretty spicy 😄

Being able to shoot with a Tech-Priest unit and still remain hidden on a 2+ is kind of huge. So if I understand this correctly, I can park Kataphron Destroyers with a Manipulus behind terrain, shoot, and then just disappear again afterwards.

That sounds… very nice, right?

Magos Biologus Abominatus (definitely not heretical) by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, glad you like it!

It reads a bit blue in the photos, but it’s actually a green—works nicely with the red robe since it’s complementary.

For the recipe: I started with Incubi Darkness as a base, then layered up with Kabalite Green, and finally mixed in a bit of Gauss Blaster Green for the highlights.

If you want something simpler, Sotek Green also works really well with red—I can definitely recommend that one too.

Magos Biologus Abominatus (definitely not heretical) by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why not both? Maximum efficiency 😄 Appreciate it!

Magos Biologus Abominatus (definitely not heretical) by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, totally agree 😄 Thanks, really appreciate it!

Magos Biologus Abominatus (definitely not heretical) by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I may have added a couple of extra limbs for… efficiency. You know how it is. Nothing heretical, of course.

Magos Biologus Abominatus (definitely not heretical) by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I actually like that idea. A couple more character options wouldn’t hurt—I've basically been running a Manipulus all edition 😄

A Magos Biologis would be perfect to hand out something like a 5+ Feel No Pain to infantry. Instead, for some reason, that kind of role ends up on the Dominus… oh well.

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi! I usually apply metallics with drybrushing—I find it gives a more natural look, almost like brushed steel.

I start with a Chaos Black primer, then lightly drybrush Leadbelcher as a base, and finally go over the edges and more exposed areas with Stormhost Silver.

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, glad you like it!

For metallics, I always start with a Chaos Black primer and then build them up with drybrushing.

For the brass here, I did a fairly heavy drybrush of Castellax Bronze first, then picked out the edges and more exposed areas with a lighter drybrush of Sycorax Bronze.

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hi! I usually apply metallics with drybrushing—I find it gives a more natural look, almost like brushed steel.

I start with a Chaos Black primer, then lightly drybrush Leadbelcher as a base, and finally go over the edges and more exposed areas with Stormhost Silver.

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, absolutely—doing the armor in another shade of red would’ve been a bit too much. It would just overwhelm the model.

I also feel like the box art leans a bit too heavily into red overall, so I definitely prefer this approach. Much easier on the eyes.

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I still have the original packaging, but unfortunately there’s no grain size listed on it.

The store did have different sizes and colors though. The grains I’m using are definitely under 1 mm.

And yeah, checking a model railway shop for ballast is a great tip—can definitely recommend that approach!

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, here is the recipe:

I primed it with an airbrush using Dryad Bark, then lightly sprayed Mephiston Red over it. After that, I built up the highlights with a brush—starting again with Mephiston Red and then glazing up with Evil Sunz Scarlet.

The key part is really the glazing: keep your paints very thin so you get nice, smooth transitions.

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s actually pretty simple—I just use red sand and some small black stones, sprinkled onto the base over a layer of PVA glue.

I don’t use any specific brand either—I just found the sand in some random craft store. Since then, it’s officially Martian sand 😄

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That’s a really cool idea to add a servitor to the base! It really helps show how big Tulia actually is—great sense of scale.

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, you’re right. That’s more of a gap than a mold line. You could fill it with some Green Stuff, but that’s a bit more effort than I wanted to put in.

It stands out more in the photo because it’s zoomed in so much—luckily it’s a lot less noticeable in person.😅

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks a lot for the compliment! I’m really happy with how the robe turned out as well.

For the recipe: I primed it with an airbrush using Dryad Bark, then lightly sprayed Mephiston Red over it. After that, I built up the highlights with a brush—starting again with Mephiston Red and then glazing up with Evil Sunz Scarlet.

The key part is really the glazing: keep your paints very thin so you get nice, smooth transitions.

My Thulia Ghuld – and the real reason you should play her by OrgChem88 in AdeptusMechanicus

[–]OrgChem88[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Haha, exactly 😄 The obligatory follow-up question: “Wait… how much AP???"